Tires, tires, tires

stickguy

does a large tire business. and they dont do other auto work, so they tend to be very good, and focused, on what they do do.

it would not surprise me if you could get your rotations through walmart also, since they own Sam's.

for all your posts, if you want my opinion, head on down to sams today and get the radial X. Then when you have a chance, go to any local tire chain to have the alignment checked out. Unless Sam's does alignments too (I know that BJs does not).

imidazol97

I don't feel you would go wrong with any of the tires. I just personally liked the tread design, with the sipes, of the Harmony, and the Destiny is very similar in tread cuts. Others likely have a differing opinion. If a Sam's Club is near where you're going to possibly be moving, that would be good. Does Walmart do the work in lieu of Sams Club if there's not one in the area?

dawizard

thanks guys...you have been great and very very helpful!!

I think I have made up my mind now. X-Radial sounds like the way to go. Will get it installed tomorrow! Cheers!!

jcwren

I have a 2001 Impreza RS2.5 with a set of 716 HP4's with 61K on them. I see that Kumho has discontinued this tire, and I'm wondering what the follow-on model for it is.

I've been *really* pleased with these tires, and if they still made them, wouldn't hesitate to recommend them.

Thanks,
--jc

explorerx4

Have about 5k on my '02 Explorer with these tires. They replaced Michelin Cross Terrains, which I thought for the most part were a great tire.
I fully expected to buy another set of them.
The Michelin's had about 60k on them and had tread left, but the right side tires had a lot of cracks in the sidewall. Probably due to abuse by my kids who were the primary drivers.
The General's were highly rated at tire Rack, although not quite as high as the comparable Michelin's.
I decided to take a chance due to the fact that the General's were about $350 cheaper than the Michelin's (plus 30 day return period).
As soon as I drove out of the tire dealer, I noticed the steering was much lighter.
This was a shock. After that, I noticed they rolled a lot further. They are an LRR type tire.
In my normal driving, I am getting 18 mpg which is about 1 more mpg than before.
An extra mpg from an Explorer is a big deal!
On an 1850 mile trip, I did not get the same bump, averaged about the same as the Michelin's, so not bad either.
Winter driving is still TBD.
My explorer is 4WD, V8 with towing package(higher numerical rear axle gear).

mikesauto

Great tires in my opinion i sell them all the time.

link title>Mike's Auto

bekins2

Have a recently biught 2008 caddy cts awd in need of tires.They are 235/50/18 i live in Chicago,have done some research and the best chice seems to be Contintental DWS for about 175.00 a piece delivered. Any ideas on those or any other decent tire for all season?
Thanks Al

obyone

How much balancing weights should be an acceptable limit for say a 20" rim running 255/55R20 tires?

I've just seen a rear pair one side having 7.5 and the other 6 oz. The vehicle vibrates the seat of your pants from 40+ and gets progressively worse with speed. I'm just thinking that the amount of weights used is excessive and might reflect a defect in the tire or rim or both.

colin_l

I have a set of conti DWS that I've put about 5k miles on so far, but no snow or ice driving yet of course. Compared to my previous tires, BFG supersport a/s, they handle better but don't seem to have quite as much dry grip. They have much better grip, handling and hydroplaning resistance in the rain though.

So far I'm very happy with them.

Mr_Shiftright

I've heard the industry standard is 2% of tire weight. Soooo, if the average tire weighs about 25 lbs, that's 400 oz, so 2% is 8 ounces maximum. Of course, we don't know exactly what your tires weigh.

oregonboy

My first hit on a google for that size came up at 38lbs, which @ 2% would be about 12 oz. (or 3/4 of a pound), which seems like a H of a lot to be hanging on the edge of your rim to achieve "balance".

The wider the rim and the bigger the tire, the more important the inherent balance of the rim & tire... particularly at higher revolutions.

Are these tires for performance or for show? :P

obyone

Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza

Mr_Shiftright

So much depends on the quality of the rims and tires, too, and the balancing methods being used. That *does* seem like a lot of weight. Maybe they were suggesting absolute maximums. I would think that such heavy weights are indicative of other problems.

bekins2

Thanx

stickguy

I have a lot of weight on 1 wheel on my 2005 Odyssey. Happened to get a real pro old timer at NTB a couple of rotations ago (instead of the usual just out of vo tech kid).

He had a heck of a time getting it dialed in. Told me he could tell that the rim was bent just little. Probably should replace that one, but I am too cheap, unless it gets worse.

I never quite can get 100% of the shake out of the steering wheel. Not bad enough to matter, but just enough to annoy an OCD driver (meaning my wife does not notice it, but I do!).

Not as bad when that wheel is in the back though.

I am holding off on the wheel until I need tires again, and that won't be for a couple years at least at this pace, and who knows if I will even own it at that point.

bekins2

Thanx for the info! What kind of vehicle?

colin_l

2003 Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 8. I've had summer-only tires, winter performance tires and high performance all-season on this vehicle. I drive about 15,000 miles per year and all-seasons are 'good enough' for me to use year round.

yooper612

Hello- I have a 2003 Pontiac
Grand Am and recently had a new Goodyear Eagle GT tire put on my car. It was mounted backwards. The side that says this side inward is facing out. I have put approximately 1300 miles on it since it was mounted, could there be damage done to the tire?

srs_49

You probably didn't damage anything. But the Eagle GT is an asymmetrical tire, which means the tread pattern is different on the inside edge from that on the outside edge. This is done to maximize performance (cornering, primarily). You should have the tire remounted the right way in order to take full advantage of those expensive tires.

BTW, did you really only replace a single tire? That is usually not recommended.

stickguy

probably no damage. I believe the only real difference will be in function since the tread is directional. Just have it turned around so it matches and you should be fine. Just find an installer that knows how to read this time.

oldfarmer50

I've been reading about the really great cornering ability if the 2011 Mustang with the optional performance package. Part of the package are 19 inch P-Zero tires.

How much of this ability comes from the tires and how much is due to the suspension tweaks. Are the P-Zeros THAT good or would any summer performance tire work as well?

colin_l

Any good max performance summer tire would yield the same results.

Side comment: that option package you're talking about is a heck of a bargain, with the big brakes and all.

capriracer

Contrary to what colin says, there can be quite a lot of differences between tires of the same size and type.

While it is generally true that UHP tires generally have better grip than say HP or regular all season tires, there are enough exceptions to call this generality into question. Further, even within a category there are measureable differences in grip.

So to answer your question: Some of the improvment is in the tires, some is in the wider / lower aspect ratio, and some is in the suspension tweaks.

hullstreettire

Try Hull Street Tire in Richmond,VA they are Very Very reasonable, and they will ship them to you for a good price. I went to their website, tireservice and called them and got all 5 of my cars, good to go, They had EVERYTHING!! thier phone number is 804-233-9191 good guys over their.

colin_l

Thanks for keeping me honest-- I just tossed out a quick reply from my phone last night. I did write 'good' max performance tires but I didn't quantify what good means. The TireRack and other sites have tests and user surveys that help quantify tire grip, handling, noise, tread life and so on. I stick to the intent of my first reply: no, the Pirelli Pzero is not a 'magical' or overwhelming influence on performance. There are at least a few competitor tires that would give a highly similar level of performance, and there are a few that perform even better (likely at the expense of tread life).

But you have probably addressed the original poster's real intent: what is contributing to the increased handling and braking performance in the 2011 Mustang with the "55D - Brembo Disc Brake" package?

The package does not include new springs or struts but the stability management program is re-tuned for a performance driving bias. The suspension itself isn't actually changed, as might be implied by your 'suspension tweaks' comment.

srs_49

I also don't think there is any accepted industry standard for the various categories of tires is there? One manufacturer's UHP may be worse (performance-wise) than another manufacturer's HP tire.

bob398

We are looking to repalce all 4 tires. They are currently the OEM Continental 225/50R/17
Are best to stay with this make / model or are there other brnads that would provide a better ride at about the same cost

kiawah

research on www.tirerack.com

stickguy

I do know someone that deals in Volvos, and he always uses Contis. Says they are the best for ride and handling with the Volvo suspension.

dpmeersman

What are your general impressions of these tires? Have there been any issues with them? My son has had good luck with them on his Volvo. You mention ride. Volvo's, like most euro cars, have a somewhat stiffer suspension, so a change in tires won't necessarily change that. How many miles have you got on them?

krzyss

Do you care about snow, rain?
Define "better ride".
My better ride is probably different than yours.

Krzys

gold6

On new year's eve, someone drove through our mailbox, across our driveway, into our yard, got stuck in the snow, pushed themselves out, and drove off. Can you identify these tires? And in case they are original, what car comes with these? This was a front wheel drive car. Drunk driving is not OK. Thanks!

http://www.springfieldinstitute.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/IMG_1363.jpg

http://www.springfieldinstitute.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/IMG_1360.jpg

timadams

Call in Grissome from CSI. I'm sure they'll drop everything to find the perp. And prove they were drunk three days ago, to boot.

colin_l

I would agree with timadams here, in that you are unlikely to find the person responsible and gain restitution based on a tire imprint.

gold6

We do have additional evidence....

Mr_Shiftright

Police often do have a tire pattern database but for property damage cases, I kinda doubt they are going to do this----for a hit and run fatality, sure, but in this case, you're probably better off just asking around to see who might have seen what.

capriracer

There are so many tread patterns on the market today, that it is almost impossible to FIND a suspect using the tread pattern. It is much more likely that the other evidence will be the key to finding him (or her).

But if you already have a suspect, then matching the tread pattern is much easier.

Mr_Shiftright

Very true. Every now and then they get such a rare tire pattern that they can narrow it down to certain vehicles---but not often. Sometimes all they learn is that they are looking for a truck with 4 different tires on it.

gold6

I said we have other evidence, not a suspect unfortunately. The other evidence includes a coat hanger from a dry cleaner in another part of the state, a toothbrush, and some paint rubbed off on the mailbox post. This randomness is part of why I assume the driver was drunk. Thanks all. Keep thinking!

Mr_Shiftright

Well it would make a neat plot entry for one of those super-human detective novels!

I bet Sherlock Holmes would have this wrapped up in a couple days.

oregonboy

A TOOTHBRUSH! You have a DNA sample! Just get it analyzed and into the FBI database.... oh, wait. Never-mind.

gold6

Toothbrush still in package. And anyway, that's not your area of expertise. I posted that piece of evidence to the toothbrush discussion forum.

jipster

The other evidence includes a coat hanger from a dry cleaner in another part of the state

Any fiber evidence on that coat hanger? If so, that could be the break that opens this case wide open! :surprise:

puffin1

Wow, it's been 2.5 degrees the last three mornings and the TPMS went on twice. I spent $4.00 in quarters for 12 minutes of air.it took me 7 minutes to find out the doughnut needed air. The other tire was right rear. My hands were frozen and my lip cracked.The screwing of the stem caps was a trick.
So for 9 bucks the dealer tells me nitrogen will solve my problems and I'll get better milage. What do you think? :confuse:

backy

What I think is that air is about 78% nitrogen.

Your real problem is, you need to find a service station with free air. I have two stations near me, one has a coin-operated air pump and one has free air (along with a great all-cloth car wash for $5 a pop, less with specials). Guess which station I frequent?

m6user

I really had no thoughts one way or the other on it but have had three sets of tires now with nitrogen simply because I bought the tires at Costco and the nitrogen is part of the installation process. I have been literally shocked that I went over two years before putting any air in one set of tires and am over a year on one of the other vehicles. The third I just got a couple of months ago so too early to tell. I kept checking the tires as I couldn't believe they didn't need air but they maintained their pressure over two Chicago winters.

Now either I had the best installation job in the world or this nitrogen is doing some good. I can't claim a better ride(who the heck ever heard of that attribute anyway) but I used to have to put in air in one or more tires at least three to four times a year and usually all around at least once a year. It has been a very pleasant experience not having to mess with it.

I fully realize that air is already 80% nitrogen so the extra 20% shouldn't make that big of difference but it does seem to. Two sets of tires are Michelin and the other is BF Goodrich so it isn't one particular brand of tire. Maybe Costco really knows how to mount tires better than most other companies I have had before. I really don't know. But I can honestly say it has worked for me very nicely with three sets of tires. I even have one of those plug in air compressors in each vehicle because it seemed like I was always putting air in tires but that has ceased.

I know people will bash this stuff but it's mostly from people that haven't tried it or are just repeating others or what they have read somewhere. I'm just offering my personal experience without a lot of hyperbole. I wouldn't pay a whole lot for nitrogen($9 seems pretty reasonable) as it isn't that hard to check and fill tires with air. But for two or three bucks per tire not having to mess with it when it's 0 degrees out and slush is caked on the rims/valves is all good.

fushigi

What I think is that air is about 78% nitrogen.

Exactly. Let's run some numbers based on the nitrogen-proponent's saying that the nitrogen doesn't leak.

Tires start at 78% nitrogen/22% everything else - oxygen, etc.
All of the non-nitrogen leaks out. The tires are now under-inflated but everything that's left in the tires is pure nitrogen. So refill them with air that's 78% nitrogen.

Guess what. They're now at about 95% nitrogen. The math is 78% nitrogen + 0.78*22% (since you lost 22% of the tire's inflation you're adding 22% of max inflation back in and 78% of that 22% is nitrogen).

So maybe that last 5% leaks out and they're at 95% nitrogen. Top off the tires again and you're at 98.9% nitrogen.

If what the nitrogen proponents claim is true that nitrogen doesn't leak out then all you have to do is refill your tires a couple of times when they're low and you'll get pretty darn close to 100% nitrogen without paying the $30-40 that's commonly charged.

And to the OP, I'd suggest picking up a small AC powered air compressor from your local home improvement store or a 12V DC (cigarette lighter plug) compressor from an auto parts place. Cost will be $25-100 if not on sale. But it's a one-time cost and you can fill car and bike tires as well as any other inflatables like yoga balls all day long for free.

crkyolfrt

"But for two or three bucks per tire not having to mess with it when it's 0 degrees out and slush is caked on the rims/valves is all good."

You still have to get your hands dirty if you are to check for having picked up a nail.

I am very much on the ney side. And not because of anything to do with not using my own common sense. I think that drivers, should take a more proactive involvement with being in touch with their vehicles on a more intimate basis.

If they are actively down there checking their tire pressures, they might spot a pc of trim coming loose, or a tail pipe hanger bracket that is coming loose, or a wheel lug nut that is working its way out, or a spring that has broken on a strut and is about to gouge the sidewall out of your tire. Nitrogen isn't going to do squat about that..

crkyolfrt

good post!

fushigi

Thanks. Here's my personal story, though it isn't on a compact. I bought my CUV in December '09. Ran it through that winter and summer without so much as even checking the tire pressure after an initial check to make sure dealer prep was thorough. Sometime in November when we were getting our first really cold weather the TPMS went off. Mine doesn't distinguish which tire is low, which is fine by me as if I'm going to check one them I'm going to check them all.

All four were about 4 PSI low. I attributed it to the commonly known issue of cold tires reading at lower pressure (pressure drops by approx. 1 PSI / 10 degrees F) as it fit the situation perfectly. Once finished I checked my wife's car and all of her tires (no TPMS on hers as it's older) were a couple of PSI low as well.

I topped up with air from my compressor and haven't heard a peep since.

BTW, I'm guessing that my air pressure, which was good in Dec 09, may have read high during my summer oil change (reversal of the pressure drop/temp drop is that pressure rises with higher temps) and was corrected by the shop. That paved the way for the pressure to actually read low when temps dropped a couple of months ago. So I'm guessing I'll ping-pong with removing some air every summer and adding some every winter.