Jeep Cherokee

vin_weasel

Mine's (a 2001) loud as well. I've always wanted someone else who knows Jeeps to drive with me to check it out because I don't trust the dealerships to ever do anything right. If I take it to a dealership I know that if I get a tech to ride with me, they'll just say it's normal.

With the front driveshaft getting power, it is going to make more noise than when it is not getting any. How much I'm not sure. I find that mine makes more noise under power. If I'm just coasting or not on the pedal there is no sound. After a while I get used to it, because by feel of the road I know it's really working well. We had some snow a couple days ago and what a difference.

If it is a problem, the possibilities are front differential and gears, U-joints (which may have been lubed at 3000mi), front drive shaft, and of course the transfer case. I've heard of seals and bearings causing noise in the transfercase.

eclipsegs

Seems many here need technical information. As I too am new to the Jeep 4X4 world, I have many questions. Can anyone name any good Jeep websites with technical and maintenance information?

I too have that slight whine noise. I just hit 77K miles on my Jeep and plan to check everything and change all fluids. As I recently purchased this Jeep only weeks ago, I don't know for sure what maintentance has been done.

I've had a slight hesitation in startups, so I started with the ignition system by changing the plugs, wires, distributer cap and rotor. Seems to start and run much better now. There was normal wear on the plugs, cap and rotor. I also checked all engine fluids. They look fine.

sebring95

I posted some sites for you last week, but they got deleted. Some sort of edmunds thing, anyway email me sebring95@excite.com and I'll send you some links for more technical info.

vin_weasel

Cherokee America @ off-road.com - the source

http://www.off-road.com/jeep/cherokee/

Jeepin.com - a good site by Jason West

http://www.jeepin.com/

Go Jeep - a good Aussie site

http://www.gojeep.rockcrawler.com/Introduction.htm

Jeeps Unlimited

http://jeepsunlimited.com/xj/features.htm

I have more but I can't remember them off the top of my head.

eclipsegs

Thanks for the info.

elight50

I visit this site because I'm considering purchasing a used SUV. There seem to be a lot of problems with Jeeps. I can't tell if people come to boards like this because they have a problem, thus skewing the data toward unreliable, or if the product is just poorly built. Buying someone else's misery is not what I had in mind. So, any thoughts on reliability/quality (going back to '97)?

rotorman

I need help! I have a 2001 Cherokee that I love. The problem, three sets of front rotors since May. Has anyone had this kind of problem and what was the solution? The service department says that Jeep is aware of the problem but hasn't developed a solution. The first thing the salesman said was that Jeep needs to buy back the car. Suggestions please!

sebring95

Get a set of quality aftermarket/high performance pads and rotors. I had trouble in the past with domestic rotor problems and that always takes care of it. Something about quality parts, ya know? My 01 has about 28K on it and the rotors are slightly warped at 55mph, but it's not that bad and I haven't had time to mess with it. I'm going to replace them with high performance pads/rotors soon.

I'm actually surprised mine have lasted this long considering I tow alot. I had a Sebring that went through pads/rotors every 10K miles and once I quit using Mopar or cheap autozone parts I had no problems. I've never had pad or rotor problems on my Toyotas, so I don't think it's really my driving as much as just cheaper parts. Not sure why one Cherokee has more problems than another though. I know another guy that put 50K miles on his and never had any rotor warpage.

eclipsegs

Well, I'm sure that no matter what board you go into here, you will find people with automotive quarks and problems. One of the best things you can do for yourself in purchasing a used vehicle is to first look over it thoroughly. My Jeep is a 98 and with 77K miles on it, I wanted to make sure I was going to make the right choice. Also see if you can obtain a quick history of the vehicle. Do a Carfax report as well. Otherwise, you could run into trouble later on.

One final note, there is plenty of information both online and in print on how to choose a good used car. Good Luck!

Hammertime

Another good resource for XJ owners is http://www.naxja.org/

They have forums dealing with stock machines and highly-modified off-roaders, along with some product reviews.

sandyboy

In # 407 the gentleman refers to his 2001 XJ as a Cherokee Classsic (?). I am under the impression that for '01 there were just two models, the "SPORT" and the "LIMITED" with a 60th Anniversary Package (color keyed mouldings & bumper end tips and the 16" tires & wheels from the Limited). I didn't think there was a "Classic" model for '01 - unless it was available in ONLY cetrain parts of the country!?!?

Has anyone ever seen a 2001 Jeep Cherokee "FREEDOM" ? It was a Limited-Edition package for Californai ONLY I am told, It was in Bright Yellow, and allthough a SPORT, it wore the Limited's chrome grille and tailgate 'eyebrow' and 16" Limited wheels & tires - but had the Sport's cloth interior. Anyone ever see one? I read 500 were made & numbered???!!
Sandy

vin_weasel

would essentially be a Limited. At least according to Edmunds.

sandyboy

Found the answer, if anyone's interested. 2001 production began May 29th of 2000. From that date thru July 1st 2000, Jeep produced 2000 model year Cherokees, but with 2001 titles. During this time frame, they actually produced 2001 titled SE, Sport, Classic and Limited models that were 100% identical to their 2000 counterparts. Beginning with July 2000 production, they phased in the sole new color, "Steel Blue Metallic" and dropped the SE and the Classic, leaving just Sport & Limited. However, they then decontented the Limited downward to the status of the former Classic, by removing all of the prior Limited-exclusive items, over to the Limited OPTION list, thereby turning the Limited into a Classic. From then on, the buyer had to essentially 'build' his/her own Limited, by ordering the overhead console, the leather interior with heated seats & dual 6-way power seats, the Selec-Trac, the cargo compartment cover, the deep tint quarter window & tailgate glass, and the speed control. About the only item left on the Limited as a carry-over were the 16" tire & wheel package. Naturally, the base stripped price of the Limited was way down from what was then just a month ago. (Down $2,560.00). If the buyer elected to put back on the Limited what had been grabbed off, it was somewhat of a bargin, as the total of the above netted $2,190.00. . The content of the option group was shuffled around a bit too, and generally prices were lower than the early 2001s produced in the May 29 to July 1 time frame. So.....There actually WAS (for a very, very short time) a 2001 Cherokee CLASSIC as well as a 2001 SE. (At least in title/registration). You can tell if yours is an early full packaged Limited as the VIN will have in it XJJS(74) whereas a unit produced AFTER July will have XJJP(74) VIN. Unless the XJJP has the aforementioned six options on it, it is a Classic, wearing Limited badges!
I obtained this info from Mother-Mopar - but they could NOT tell me how many Early Limiteds (May 29-July1) were made, except to say "around 2,500 units" .......

vin_weasel

Nice research and interesting to know.

mhall02

I have only seen one bright yellow Cherokee Sport/Freedom, either a 2000 or 2001 indicated by the 4.0 liter plaque vs the 4.0 liter writing on the back liftgate, and it was spotted at Scott Air Force Base in Illinois. Very bright color, easily caught my attention, but too bright for me. Interesting to know a little about the history though.
p.s. at 42,000 miles on our 2000 and still love it. Just put my first set of brake pads on, rotor looked good and a 'snap' to replace.

vin_weasel

I've got the plaque on my 2001. It's actually the "4.0 Litre" special Canadian edition.

eclipsegs

I've seen quite a few of them here in Mass. All had the black bumper ends.

vin_weasel

Cherokee owners check out www.mopar.com. They are getting rid of lots of their stock of cherokee accessories. I went through most of the items and some of the deals were:

Rock Rails: $69
Gas Tank Skid Plate: $6
Trans Case Skid Plate: $35
Front Grille Guard with Lights: $129
Front Grille Guard w/o Lights: $89? (I don't remember, but it was cheap)
Running boards were real cheap, too.
etc.

I was looking at the 2001 parts for an XJ Sport 4dr 4x4 with a zip code from the Buffalo area. I don't know if other model years will work or not. I've heard of some dealerships honouring these prices and some claiming to not know what is going on. The prices on the reduced items are acutally the dealership cost for them so don't let them tell you something different.

BTW, if anyone is living in North Dakota or Minnesota and would like to perhaps arrange to purchase a Grill Guard with Lights that I could come and pick up, let me know. Unfortunately, the Canadian dealerships, at least the 7 in my area, have no idea about this clearance and don't care enough to match prices.

sandyboy

No, No! What you saw in Il. & Ma. were 2001 SPORTS in the mid-year addition color of "SOLAR YELLOW" ... What I am talking about were only in California & AZ. & NV. They were 2000 model year Sports in "Hornet Yellow" and had the CHROME Limited Grille of that year, with the Limited 16" wheels. Different animal. You'd have to be in 1 of those 3 states to see one.

five0_4tluv

I bought an 02 2 weeks ago. No cross beams on roof rack. Is this true of the 02's? Also what are the symptoms of the warped rotors?

rsholland

on '02 Grand Cherokees and Libertys, roof rack cross bars are now an option.

Re: warped rotors...

If you get a vibration through the brake pedal while braking, there's a good chance your rotors are warped.

Bob

sebring95

Has anyone put Toyo tires on a Cherokee? I've had them on other vehicles and liked them, but they've always been car tires or very aggresive M/T truck tires. They have some decent looking A/T's but was curious what others thought of them.

RE: MPG I'm averaging between 18-22mpg as well. Depends on how I'm driving as I have a bit of a lead foot. Coming up on 30K miles and 1 year. Couple minor complaints, but I'd buy another one over anything else out there. Too bad I can't, thanks DC!

yellowdr

I wanted to provide a bit of info and get some feedback. Thanks to those who pointed me to this board.

1) I have a 2000 Sport that just came back from the shop following its yearly inspection and check for engine light "on". The results were good...with the inspection I had the tires rotated, 4 wheel allignment, etc.... and I was initially informed that the engine light "may" have come on to indicate a vacuum leak. This happens sometimes after a GAS fill up with a gas cap "too tight".

Never heard of this before and wanted to pass this on.

They did find that my problem however came from a #5 cylinder not firing properly. Plug replaced and a computer reprogram to correct a rough idle and the Jeep is running much better.

2) This is my second Jeep and besides my wife feeling very safe since it has served her through several difficult weather situations, I too have found it to be a very enjoyable vehicle.

Anyone out there with gas mileage info though? I have found that around town it gets very low mileage(possible do in part to the # 5 cylinder,huh), but on the road it turns in 18-22 MPG depending on conditions and driver. It is an automatic. How does this compare?
Christmas trip produced 21.7mpg.

Very pleased so far with Jeep service and vehicles!

vinney

I have a 2001 sport 2wd and I get about 15mpg mostly city driving and I've never taken it on a long trip yet. I have 7000 miles with no problems whatsoever. I've had a few sqeaks and rattles which I took care myself. 21.7 sounds pretty good for the 4.0 liter engine. I've heard of leaving the gas cap loose and getting a check engine light but not because it's too tight.

autonuts

Would a used Jeep Cherokee, (not Grand Cherokee), say '95 and newer be a good choice for a SUV for pulling a small trailer/camper? I'm thinking of the 4.0L and 4 wheel drive. I'm also considering the Ford Explorer, any opinions to choose one or the other? Thanks.

vin_weasel

I'm averaging around 16-18 mpg Imperial for 100% city driving. I've had as high as 25mpg on 100% highway. With winter here I'm down around 14-16mpg for city. I'm driving less and gas is cheap here so it's not bothering me.

The 4.0 is a great engine for towing something small (up to 5000lbs). I'm considering picking up a little fishing boat soon and should have no problems towing it behind the jeep. If you only plan on towing and no off-road stuff you might want to not get one with the Up-Country Suspension package. This package has the rear sway bar removed which apparently helps with towing. However I've also heard many others who say it makes no difference. As soon as I put on a lift kit and get some beefier shocks, it's coming out.

My Jeep has the automatic transmission and I had the dealer add the towing package when I bought it. The towing package comes with an auxillary transmission cooler, the hitch and the wiring. If you're looking at a jeep, look through the front grill and if you see a small radiator in front of the larger radiator just above the bumper, that's the transmission cooler. Apparently it's a big help and will increase the life of the transmission. I think you can also buy them aftermarket.

autonuts

Thanks for the info!

mhall02

Our 2000 Cherokee Sport/Automatic 4x4 gets 15-17 city and 19-21 highway, the sticker said 16 city and 20 highway so it seems to be on track. 22 mpg from Atlanta to Nashville was the best. We have had best luck with 87 octane Mobile gas. Quick Trip, Amoco, and Philips 66 seems to spark knock once in while. Excellent service from our 5 Star dealer for the few items we had problems with.

yellowdr

Thanks for your input.
I guess that I'm getting the right mileage for this vehicle. Nice to know. Feedback appreciated.

jrtx

I have a 1999 2WD 4.0 auto with 48K miles. Average since new is 19.7 mpg. Best is 21.5, worst was 12.2 towing 3500 lb boat.

cowsrus

Yellow - We had exactly the same problem a so called "vacuum" ours was in the shop on 5 separate occassions. They finally removed the whole fuel system as the Daimler guys in Detroit had no idea.

I am trying to change the front brakes on a 2001 Cherokee Sport and am having a bit of a problem. The piston won't retract far enough so that I can get the brake unit over the rotor. I have tried to "C" clamp. There is a little Bleed valve but turning it counter clockwise won't release it. I am afraid to put to much force for fear of breaking it. Any help or ideas?

sebring95

Did you open up the fluid resevoir for the master cylinder? Just compress the piston slowly so you don't send fluid out all over the place. Post back what you find cause I'm going to swap the pads/rotors for high perf. ones soon.

dan_m

I have a 1990 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L 4X4 with 201,000miles. I need to change the shocks and would like to put on a shock that is more aggressive that what I have on there now, Monroe light duty truck shock.
I know there is an up-country option that uses different shocks and was wondering if anybody has them on there truck and if so do they like them.

sebring95

Any high quality shock will be a big improvement. Bilstein is the best IMHO, but they are the most expensive, figure $200 for the set. Ranchos would also be an improvement for less money. Also, KYB is a good shock but rides a bit rougher with similar control than the Bilstein. Buying the up-country shocks from the dealer would probably be expensive and doubtful they would be as good as Bilstein or others. And may not fit as the up-country also has different springs, etc.

vin_weasel

There are many different manufacturers. It depends on what you want. Stiff - Rancho. Nice - Doetsch Tech, Old Man Emu (ARB). and so on. The upcountry package simply used a spacer (1") in the front and the shocks are Blistiens. I'm not sure how they lift the back, could be a Commanche shackle. You probably don't want the Up Country shocks because the dealership will charge you way too much for them and they might be an inch too long. If this is the case the shocks will most likely compress before you hit the bumpstops, eventually damaging the shocks after bottoming out multiple times. Plus with 200k+ miles, unless you've replaced the rear leafs, your suspension is probably sagging a little, making the compression length shorter. Then again, I have no actual experience with the Up Country shocks and the length difference so they may work perfectly fine.

Personally, I'm probably going to go with Doetsch Tech shocks once I get a slight lift. Eventually (ie once I have enough money) I'll go with a whole Old Man Emu suspension package. I've only heard excellent things about both. We have most major companies like Rancho, Munroe, Edlebrock, Doetsch Tech, etc but prices vary alot up here. Now if only I had that kind of selection on other aftermarket stuff...

cowsrus

Sebring95 that is my problem I can't get the screw on the fluid reservoir to release. I have put quite a bit of pressure on it and it won't budge. I am scared to break or strip it. Any ideas??? THanks ALL!

sebring95

The fluid reservoir has a yellow cap that can be unscrewed by hand. It's up on the master cylinder (drivers side firewall). Sometimes the system can be air locked and removing the cap allows the fluid to be pushed up into the reservoir for piston compression. You shouldn't need to unscrew anything down on the caliper to compress it.

Are you upgrading to performance rotors/pads?

yettibutt

My 2000 has 17K miles on it, i have averaged about 15 mpg in town and 18-20 on the highway. I have a Thule roof rack which may slightly decrease the mileage, also, I drive a little faster than I should on the highway, at 70-80, the Cherokee doesn't get great milage. In town, my worst was 13 when I first bought it, but this is HEAVY city driving, all stop and go. As for problems, I have had warped rotors 3 times, some rattles, fog lights filling with water, and a loud exhaust rattle when cold. Its a great little truck around town, but I think it is terrible on road trips (too much noise, gives me a headache) and not very comfortable to sit in for long periods. I am thinking now after having it a year I should have bought something else, either a Grand Cherokee for more comfort or something a little more car like. I have finally faced reality, I don't use the 4x4 enough to justify the crappy gas milage and piss poor comfort. I will say, the 4x4 does work well both in the snow and on the beach.

cowsrus

Thanks for the tip Sebring. I will definitely try it today and get back to you.

The rotors are fine. We have 30K on the jeep and they are not worn. This is the first brake replacement. I am not intending to put performance pads or rotors on at this point.

peshleman1

2000 cherokee with up country, tow package. 18,000 miles and no problems at all. Will get 20 mpg on interstate going 75 mph. Best gas mileage was 24 mpg. I had a good tailwind and downhill. Worst mileage is 13 when i`m offroad and in 4 low. Gets about 14 pulling a camping trailer. Around town 16-18 mpg. Gas mileage goes down when it gets real cold too. Overall I have been completly satisfied with my cherokee. It`s one of the last vehicles that can be called a real 4 wheel drive. Excellant off road for a stock vehicle. 4.0 has good low end torque for climbind and offroading. If you want a rig that will do it all the jeeep cherokee is it!

sandyboy

2001 Cherokee Limited with Select-Shift. When driven in either 2 wheel drive or full time 4 wheel drive, everything is wonderful, HOWEVER when placed in PART-TIME 4-Wheel Drive, the steering is terrible. The amount of turns lock-to-lock is shortened & as you get near the end of the raduis, the steering wheel shakes violently, and will buck and something feels like it's binding underneath. You cannot make a U-Turn, nor turn into a driveway even. Ideas??? Have appt. at selling dealer this coming Friday, the January 11th.
Thanks in advance for any input. Much Appreciated!
S A N D Y

gmlover1

That's why they call it part time. The reason it feels like it's binding is because it is, when in part time the front and back are locked together so the only give is in the tires. That's why you can't use it on dry pavement.

sandyboy

Thank You Harold (gmlover1) I appreciate your reply. I trust that you are correct. Do you have a Cherokee? Year?

S A N D Y

gmlover1

Yes 1992

sebring95

gmlover1 is exactly correct. The full-time system uses a center differential that allows use in any conditions including dry. When you switch to part-time it bypasses the center differential and locks everything together (a convential 4X4 system). This is more effective when you're doing serious off-roading because it's delivering equal power to front and rear. Continued use of part-time in dry conditions will seriously destroy a whole bunch of drivetrain components. If the weather is marginal, where some dry and some slippery surfaces, the full-time system is more than adequate. In fact, I wouldn't use the part-time system at all unless you're doing off-roading or possibly in some severely deep snow. I also would cancel that appt. with the dealer and deny ever speaking to them about it. If something breaks while under warranty they could blame you (and rightly so) for running part-time on dry pavement. The owners manual (and I believe the yellow sticker on the sun-visor) specifically says not to use on dry surfaces.

I've got an '01 with 30K miles. I've gone through mud deeper than the wheels and snow being pushed by the bumper. It does a helluva job. I've had two problems: oil pressure sending unit (tells the oil pressure guage what's going on, no big deal) has been acting weird since about 15K. Going in for warranty replacement tomorrow. The rotors have acted like they are a bit warped, but here lately feel fine so maybe they fixed themselves, dunno. As peshleman1 said above, these are some of the last real 4X4's besides maybe the Wrangler. The 4.0L is much stonger than the high-reving low-torque motors everybody is going to. Try and pull a trailer with a 3.7L V6 in the Libery and you'll feel the difference.

sandyboy

Thanks for the complete explanation. I drove her with the Part Time 4x4 for less than 4 miles. We have a Lincoln Mark VIII that's a great luxury road/touring car, but needs to be parked in November until April. 300 HP & RWD make for a toboggan in the snow. The Trac Control is useless! Thusly I entered the world of 4x4 for a "winter~ride" - I have always loved the look of the Cherokee and recall visiting the American Motors Dealer to see them in 1984. When we realized the 2001 was the last, it was time to act. Mine is the 9,085th prior to the last one made, so she's a late, late 2001, made in April, '01. I do no mud/sand/beach driving with her, it's just so I can get to work, bank and other places when there is more than 1" of snow, as that's where the Mark VIII checks out! Thanks for the advice & assistance. I did put on a Jeep Tranny fluid cooler at delivery, which I feel should been a factory installed option. It's not!
S A N D Y

vin_weasel

Mine was installed at the dealer, too. Luckily the Internet sales department I was working with would install any option at cost.

Was the build number/date on the inside of the door? If so, I want to check mine out because even though I picked it up in May '01 I think it may have been there for a while.

cowsrus

Sebring95 thanks for the tip. It was a vacuum lock. The guys at Autozone told me to undo the bleader on the caliper -- geez would I have been in trouble.

Best regards

sandyboy

No, the Build # was not, but the month/year was. You can find your DAY of the month on the dealer's invoice, if you have it. On it you'll see: MDY it stands for month day year veh. was made. If you post your last 6 digits of your VIN & can find out 4 U what # of the 2001 model year build, yours was....

sebring95

I know what you mean. Brother has an LS8 which he thought traction control would be good enough. Wrong! His sits in the garage Nov-April also. Just keep yours in full-time for the winter and everything will be rosey. The only better system for winter driving would be the Grand Cherokees Quadra-drive system. My in-laws have one and it's excellent for snow/ice. I don't know how much I'd trust it in severe off-roading or deep mud, but for the general driving public it's great. I just think the Cherokee is a real utility vehicle and actually looks like it too.

The tranny cooler only comes with the tow package from the factory. Dealer cost was $310.00 which added class III hitch, wiring, 7-wire adapter, heavy-duty engine cooling, aux tranny cooler, synthetic differential fluid, and a full-size spare tire with matching alloy wheel. $100 less if you don't have the alloy wheel package. I was surprised that there weren't many available with the tow package as I'd want it regardless for only a couple hundred bucks. If you ever decided you wanted to tow something, you be hard pressed to get just a hitch installed for less.