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I usually go for 3 months. BUT since I use Synthetic, I know I can go a lot longer, many more miles, but I just feel better when the car has clean oil in it.
AND I am finally getting a whopping 19 mpg! Without trying. I guess it is finally broken in, and the Syn.oil and Bosch plugs help. So I have gone from 14-17mpg on a good day. To 19-20 mpg on the past 4 fill ups. Maybe there is hope for this engine.
I saw someone selling a Daewoo Lanos hatchback, in mint condition. It looked like a car I would own. Not a mark on it or in it. BUT they wanted $4,500 for it. A bit much for that old of a subcompact car. and a company that no longer exsists in the USA...except for OUR Aveos. I think it is was a 1998.? The weird thing was that it said, 'the engine is the same as the one in the Nissan Sentra'! This is the same engine that is in our Aveos, except now it has the 4 valves per cylinder instead of only 2. I know our engines come from Daewoo...since GM owns Daewoo, to make our engines and build our Aveos, but how did Nissan get into the mix? Anyone know? :confuse:
I've only got about 800 miles on my 08 LS Sedan now, but on my last fill up, I managed 35 MPG in 80% highway driving.
By the way, the best mileage I ever got around town was 25 MPG and 31 MPG hwy (US gallons). I experimented with running hi-test gas, and it did increase the MPG, but not enought to make up for the cost difference per gallon. My Aveo was a 05 automatic LT model, and for those out there who think anyone who isn't getting 40+ mpg have our foot in the carb, well, they are simply flat-out wrong. I would LOVE to see someone show me their Aveo getting 40+ mpg and driving normal highway speed limits (as I said, regular speed limits, not 90 mph)..
Folks, driving 45 mpg on the interstate highway doesn't count, since that isn't a realistic expectation, in my opinion.
I did fill up one time on 93 octane,but at $3.55 a gallon, I did it once! Since then it has gotten 18-20mpg on the last 3 tanks.
No one is stealing my gas, it is locked, remember:) the tank cover is locked.
I think it did need to hit over 5,000 miles to break in. But the Synthetic oil and Bosch plugs help a lot! And now they are helping more.
So, maybe one day,before I trade in on something that gets 30+ on gas alone, or a hybrid Civic, I'll get 22mpg out of it.
All this, and more, on a car that was garaged when not in use and never saw a mile on a dirt road. I swear, my Aveo was put together without any wrenches...they only tightened the fastners "hand-tight".
Mechanically, speaking in a "reliability" frame of reference, I had no problems. No oil useage or oil leaks, and the car never left me stranded. I did, however, find the suspension "creaking and moaning" somewhat bothersome, but it didn't affect reliability.
I religiously changed the oil/filter every 6 months or 5k miles, and I found that synthetic oil did seem to improve the mileage 1-2 mpg, but I can't scientifically prove it.
I had intended to keep this car for several years, but when I saw the costs that I would have to pay to fix the sunroof when the car was out of warranty, I knew it was time to unload this vehicle and cut my losses.
My opinion on the Aveo is that there will be 2 types of owners...the guy who buys the bare-bones car at a great price and puts tons of miles on it will probably be satisfied, but the guy who buys the loaded LT version, like I did, will probably wind up being somewhat disappointed in his vehicle.
I do have to say, though, that driving 4 miles a day, I'm not surprised at the mileage you're getting. That's barely enough to get it up to operating temperature.
I don't think what I'm getting is unreal at all. 35 MPG highway, doing 65 over relatively flat terrain for several hundred miles seems perfectly reasonable. Those same couple hundred miles of city driving, maybe 30 miles of that a day, nets me about 26-27 MPG. About what I would expect.
It's really too bad that true plug in electrics aren't a reality in the U.S. yet (at least not an affordable option). You sound like you'd be the perfect candidate.
I'd be curious to know what your mileage would be like if you took it out for a weekend road trip some time. I'll bet you'd see a huge difference.
I seem to recall (and I'm no expert) that there are basically 2 types of hybrids. Those designed for highest economy in city driving, and those designed for highway economy. I never really paid attention to which is which because, frankly, with my driving habits, I wouldn't save enough in gas to pay the difference between, say a Honda Civic and an identical Civic Hybrid.
I'm afraid that if you traded for something that is rated at 30+ on gas alone, you'll end up in the same boat you're in now unless your driving habits change.
And please note, when I talk about driving habits, I'm not implying that you drive like some hopped up teenage kid (god, that statement dates me, doesn't it?). I'm talking about putting 4 miles a day on your car. Heck, if I had a commute that short, I'd just ride a bike or get a scooter... Actually, I home office, so I don't put many miles on my car either, but when I do, it tends to be in the range of 30-50 miles at a time, or over 150 at a time depending on the clients I'm going to see. I'll have the occasional 800-1000 mile trip on there as well, but haven't had the opportunity to do that since I purchased mine.
I think someone got the Nissan Sentra confused with the Daewoo Gentra....see below...
Holden makes various Family II engines for GM India and GM Daewoo at its Melbourne plant. Variations include displacements from 1.6 L. to 2.4 L. Unlike the Ecotec engines, the block is made of iron.
This is the 2.0L (1998cc) variant of the engines, featuring 86mm bore and 86mm stroke. Power is 119hp (89kW) @ 5400rpm and torque is 126ft·lbf (171N·m).
The engine has been used on following vehicles:
 Other models
1.6 L - Daewoo Kalos, Daewoo Gentra, Chevrolet Aveo
1.8 L - Chevrolet Lacetti, Chevrolet Nubira, Chevrolet Rezzo
C24SE, *2.4 L SOHC - Isuzu Rodeo
2.4 L DOHC - Chevrolet Captiva, Opel Antara
My daughter is looking at a new Toyota, and I have seen several comments from you in these feeds that Toyota attempts to convince owners that a lot of problems are "normal service items" instead of actual failures/problems. She has a Corolla now, and has had good luck, with no trips for anything other than normal service on her current car (ie, oil changes,etc).
Is there a publication (or web-sites, etc.) that I can get more detailed info on this phenomenon?
Well, I think it's just one of those things that has to totally break before I can take it in and say "see". I might try to work it out so that that 24th time happens on a day off when I can take it in so that they can see I'm not making it up. Problem is, I'm afraid it's just not going to start one day and I work at night. And, this last time it "skipped" it cranked really slow. But, I was playing around with it last night, so I might have worn the battery down by starting it up too much.
This has been happening everytime i start my car. I've also noticed that if i don't wait for the engine to shake and sputter before i drive off, the engine will stall.
Does anyone know what could be causing this?
Any ideas on a fix?
I'm guessing they left the washer off of the drain plug when they replaced it. I'd be on the phone screaming at the manager if I were you.
Actually that's exactly what I did. I looked at the receipt and it said they had put in 5 qts of oil. I was a madwoman. I had to have my husband take it back because I had to work and he said the man said that the oil filter had not been tighten down enough but that the receipt was computer generated and he had only put 4 qts in. So I guess my crisis is over. I'm so afraid something will screw up my warranty that I won't take it anywhere else but the dealership from now on (and never have before). And another thing!!! - it doesn't cost any less at one of those lube places than it does at the dealership.
Partly because I'm lucky enough to work from a home office now, and the dealer has free wireless Internet, meaning it's not a big deal if I have to wait an hour while the oil gets changed. I can keep right on working.
You're right about the cost, too. These days, it's actually less expensive in my neck of the woods to just get it done at the dealer.
Your owners manual has all the information about quantities of oil and oil filter part numbers, etc. Remember to check your oil yourself from time to time, it is very easy. Moter oil should only be checked when the engine is cold before driving to get accurate results.
Got a CPU problem with my 2008 Aveo, not even 1500km on it, got the car on the 20/06/2008 and took it to GM on monday (21/07/2008) for repair. It started with some small banging in the trunk area, then one day the car stalled, got it to start again 5 min later.
For a week after that problem, the car started but the iddle of engin speed was jumping like crazy plus the banging was still there. It the day the car was fine, it's in the morning that the problem came. The ingnition switch is hot too, the dealer do not think it has a link.
They are going to thake the CPU from an other Aveo (hopping there is no problem with that one) replace, check in the morning if the problem come back. If all goes well, i should have it by thuesday...
I think you meant you took the car back to Chevrolet because GM is located in Detroit, Michigan, U.S.A..
- Burton H Wolfe
I ask to look at the hot key problem, maybe it is link to my problem. I saw it on the net that a few person had this problem with the 2007, but soo far not with the 2008. It is told that a guy had even his CD player melt. My representant from GM think that GM Canada will just give me a new car if the problem is not solved by friday (1/08/2008)
I just want my car back, i don't like the one they lent my (cobalt LT)
Soo i almost had a new car ...but mine has only 1500 km... :shades:
If your state doesn't have a lemon law, check your other options as there is a federal lemon law, and you can always seek counsel regardless of specific laws if you feel you've been ripped off:
The next moring it took 3 tries to start and on the last try it seemed to sputter for a few seconds. The idle fluctuated between 500 and 1500 RPM a few times before finally settling at 1500 RPM (high idle). It ran fine after this and I took it to the dealer. They said it had dirty injectors. This surprised me since I mainly use Chevron gas, no cheap gas and it only had 5000 miles total. They cleaned the injectors and gave it back to me. It ran fine and started fine. The next morning it happened again. I left it with them for 4 days and they could not replicate the problem. It has happened 6 times now. in 2 months. It happens about every 2 weeks. Once it starts it has no problems. I can turn it off and start it again without any problems The dealer says they can't fix it because they can't find it.
"It's funny, after it gives me a really hard time for a few starts, it will start up for exactly 23 times after that perfectly. Then, the car will start to run rough and on the 24th time, it will "skip" or crank slow. Isn't that funny?"
What is the time frame that you are seeing between the 24 times. Do you start it 24 times in row or is this over a few days of driving?
Have you figured anything out? How many miles does your Aveo have and what year is it?
(1) Is it still the 2 year mark for flushing the coolant system for the Aveo, or does it have that long lasting coolant in it, that lasts like for 5 years?
(2) OR would adding one of those pint bottles of Prestone 'Anti Rust/Water Pump Lubricant' additive, be just as good? I drain out like 1 pint of coolant, so it doesn't overflow, and just pour it in the radiator. It is suppose to replace the 'protective chemicals' in the coolant and help lubricate the water pump and make it last longer.
I did use it in one of my Ford Rangers, at the 3 year mark, and the radiator never had any rust develop. I drive so little...I have a 2006 Aveo Hatchback, and it only has 9,700 miles. Does that change the time period to change the coolant and maybe make this an option?
Should I spend all that money on an expensive professional flushing? OR spend just $6.00 on a bottle of that radiator coolant additive? Any opinions? I take very good care of my little car. But this is the first 'non warranty' maintenance thing I have had to think about doing, other than oil and filter changes of course.
Adding additives doesn't preserve the useful life of the antifreeze.
1. Unclip the wires from the exhaust
2. Use a wrench to loosen the sensor, then hand turn it the rest of the way out
3. Turn the new sensor into place
4. Clip the wires back into place
If you have a SES light from the old sensor, it will usually take a few cycles for it to go off.
Interestingly, GM has had some issues with Dexicool. It seems that some 3.4, 3.8, 4.3 L engines had some gaskets that couldn't handle the formula leading to manifold gasket leaks and recalls.
As for your problem, well.... you could take a long shot on this first if you want: replace the spark plugs with the same kind of plugs you had before it threw the belt if they're different.
However, in all likelihood when the belt went it destroyed the valves and you're looking at another $1500-$2000 in repairs. If replacing/repairing the head or other valve repair work was already included in that $3500 though, I'd take it back and make them give you a very clear and detailed description of what's currently wrong if they want any significant amount of money to fix the current issue.
As a follow-up, unfortunately, the timing belts on Aveos are pretty much garbage. They're supposed to be inspected at 30,000 miles, and replaced regardless of condition at, I believe, 50,000. I've never had a car that ever needed a timing belt replaced before 100,000 miles, but I'm not risking it with this heaping pile of junk.
Sadly, the person you bought it from probably didn't do this somewhat unusual maintenance work.
I have to admit confusion here. I've changed many a oil filter and have never had to add another gasket to the mix. Isn't the gasket that's already on the filter enough?
Also, I have a 09 Aveo LS that I intend to change the oil and filter myself... but after reading though the forums and looking at my car I am not sure where the filter or more importantly the drain plug is. I see a few people thought the transmission plug was the oil plug. I just want to make sure. The obvious choice is the plug on the pan on the drivers side. I couldn't find the one "in the middle of the engine block".
Thanks for any help.