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Waxes and Polishes, Part II
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Comments
Lee
Rather than repeat previously posted information, suggest you refer to posts #153 and #155 above and click on Zaino and Chris Parrish sites.
Sorry. Edmund's won't take the above site on one line so you'll have to enter it by hand.
To answer your question, the consensus seems to be that Z2 on top of Z5 (however many coats of each you desire to apply) provides the optimum depth of shine, particularly on a black car. On my four month old (light colored) TL, I had applied several coats of z2 before I thought to try a couple of coats of z5, followed with one more z2.
This was just to see if I could improve on what I already believed to be perfection, and it DID make a difference.
Also, you will get the best results if you follow the dawn wash and clay routines recommended by the sites referenced in the posts drscopem referred you to, and use the towels discussed.
Not really sure what happened. Was the Z-1 DRY before you put on the Z-2? To test it, you run your finger over the Z-1 or 2- if it smears, it's not dry yet. Could be that you used too much or it was more humid then you thought.
At any rate, just take a damp towel and wipe the car down. This should remove any smears. Then, use the Z-6. Again, use very little- applying it in small areas and immediately wiping it off.
Let us know what happens.
fastdriver
If the Zaino smears then it wasn't dry. The main cause is putting it on too thick. Everyone is used to putting a thick coat of other waxes on until the surface is obliterated. For Zaino that is way too much.
Check out post #155 for Chris Parrish's site. He is the guru and has excellent tips. If you can leave it in your garage overnight to dry you will probably be better off - that's what I do.
Good luck.
John
I have been using Zaino for 1.5 yrs. now and have consistent drying times of 20 to 30 min. I have done it in very dry to very humid conditions. I believe the key is use VERY thin coats. As you have stated most folks are used to the way heavier waxes/polishes/polymers.
I had thought that Z5 should be applied prior to Z2. Maybe I should also try Z5 in the manner you stated above. But doesn't Z5 have to operate at the bottom layer level?
And to Chevy05, NO Zaino will not damage car paint. I just looked at that waxdepot site's polymer related content. And I can say that they got it wrong. They are lumping all 'plastics' together. Polymers are just one branch of plastics and Zaino doesn't contain silicone. By the way, the paint and clearcoast on your car is a plastic based chemical too. Zaino will not stop your paint from 'breathing' - that's just nonsense. Once dry, your paint doesn't have to breath. Just expand and contract with outside temperature conditions. Polymers like Zaino WILL expand and contract at the same rate. Many of the harder waxes will not. They will break apart at the microscopic level and leave little gaps which allow outside dirt to get to the clearcoat.
Much mis-information on that site.
To be objective, you should take information that is provided by the same source that is selling the product with a grain of salt, whether it is Wax Depot, Meguiar's, Zymol, Griot's, or Zaino.
Very little "Independant" information is available about waxes. Everyone must rely on personal experience and recommendations from trusted friends on what products to use.
You DO have a point. However, that site made a point lumping acrilic and polymer based chemicals together as 'plastics'. And the better wax manufactures (Meguiar's) have explained how their products break down over time. The high end waxes ARE good products but like all such products (including Zaino), time and environmental conditions will wear them down. According to some of the wax literature, when harder waxes break down, they will split at the microscopic but multi-molecule level. Using larger polymer molecules, products like Zaino will tend to break down too, but from the outside inwards. They will last longer before their lateral bonds spilt. Thus, they will tend to last longer. We can debate how long it takes and how much protection they afford. And even how good a shine is produced. But to label all polymers as 'plastics' and then declare that plastics are bad for a car finish is just nonsense.
#173 - Z2 on Z5 or Z5 on Z2?
Although it was pat455 in post #165 that mentioned putting Z5 on Z2 I will take a stab at it if you wish.
Swirl marks represent grooves or scratches in the finish. You can either wear them down with a polish, fill them in, or both. Z5 was developed to fill them in. Sal says the optical properties of Z5 are not as great as Z2 so he recommends always finishing with Z2. Since they are compatible you can mix back and forth from one to the other without problem until you achieve the finish you desire but should finish with Z2 to assure maximum reflectivity.
Your goal is to have the surface as flat and glossy as possible with no defects above the surface (dirt, embedded rail dust, etc. which could be removed by washing, claying, and polishing) or below the surface (spider webbing, scratches, swirl marks, etc. which must be polished or filled). The fewer the surface defects the greater the directed reflection of light (and the less the scatter of light) so your finish more closely resembles a mirror.
Hope this helps.
By the way, a really good cleaner for VERY oxidized paint is Soft Scrub liquid cleanser without the bleach. Do a small part at a time with a wet sponge, and rinse really well. It has amazingly restored really bad paint. Then a cleaner-wax afterwards.
I also have used Lemon Pledge on car interiors for many many years with great results. It gives a nice shine to wood, plastic, vinyl, leather and chrome. Lexol 2-3 x per year. I will try Vinlylex and let you know how it works.
Thanks for all the great posts - I'll be watching for further enlightenment!
Does anyone know what causes this and any ways to stop it?
Thanks
It's too much of a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] to print that form out, write a check, and mail it in plus if for some reason they screwed me by saying "it must have got lost in the mail" I'd have no way to re-coup the loss.
There is a foam window cleaner out there, but I don't know the name of it. It is supposed to work well.
The film is inevitable, so just use a good alcohol based window cleaner as frequently as you can stand.
For windows I like the Eagle One 20/20 glass cleaner too. I don't add extra alcohol though. Regular Windex just isn't strong enough for the oily film inside a car window.
If the Eagle One fails, I have had success with The Wax Shop's Oily Film Remover and Window Cleaner. I purchase mine locally but it can also be purchased from the Wax Depot at www.waxdepot.com.
Good luck.
A good window cleaner, especially for water spots, and even paint overspray is chrome polish. It is slightly abrasive and takes all the crud right off. I makes a white haze that easily wipes off (remember "Glass Wax"?) My grandparents also have always used newpaper, I am not sure if it is the ink or the rough paper, but it works great!
ann4 - The product I was using does contain ammonia. Why is this bad?
newwestd - Is chrome polish the equivalent of glass polish at a cheaper price?
Maybe someone can invent an INSIDE windshield wiper and washer! LOL.......
I ONLY wash the windows on my 300M when I can't see anymore! ;-)) With Chrysler's "cab forward" design, you have to be a contortionist to clean the front windshield.
fastdriver
Try this site for the clay material- http://www.erazer.com/toc.htm and this site for the tips-
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/6021/zainofaq.html
fastdriver
You know, it is interesting/surprise that three local auto parts stores have no clay material/kit nor do they know what clay is.
Thank you again.
I'm in the St. Louis area so I don't know if you have these stores where you are. We have Grandpa Pigeon (discount store) that carry Mother's clay. It was about $11.00. I haven't check Wal-Mart, but give that place a try.
Speaking of Zaino, I just clayed my father's new Town & Country LX (Clay Magic - Blue) and then gave it a coat of Z1 and Z2 followed by a Z6 wipedown. Since then, the neighbors have been stopping every time we are out in the driveway to comment on the shine. He, too, was pretty surprised by the end result over his previously used products. Needless to say, his order for his own Z-products will be forthcoming.
Happy Labor Day to those in the U.S.
Terry
polishing it, have better things to do with my time. Bet some of you fellows even carry a cover for your little cars so they dont even get dusty when you park them.
On the Nu-Finish vs Zaino subject, since both products are polymer based they'll probably have a similiar wearing ability. I put a coat of Zaino on my car on July 4th, and it has lasted all this time. This weekend I put another coat of Z2 on the car and it increased the shine, etc. But even before, my previous coat of Z2 was still beading water in a beautiful fashion. That's after 2 months without a wash due to this drought. From my experience, Zaino really lasts a long time.
The website is www.liqui-tech.com.
They market Finish First which is a polymer product or sealant. I have used it and do not find the durability problems that others have posted about.
They have a pre-cleaner that removes surface wax and grease. This step is similar to the Dawn wash used by the Zaino users. It contains physical abrasives.
After prepping you apply a light blue liquid, let it cure, and wipe off the haze. I prefer to let it sit overnight in the garage prior to removing. Let it cure for 24 hours and you can add another coat to build upon the first.
Do not let it dry on the trim or you will have a white splotch (not unlike carnauba wax). I have ordered from Liqui-Tech and they delivered as promised.
Don't forget that you can use this (like many other waxes and sealants) on your wheels to make cleaning easier.
Good luck.
AND Zaino lasts a long time too, probably just as long as NuFinish, if not longer.