Waxes and Polishes, Part II

drscopem

Hi:
The big problem with vinyl, whether interior or exterior, is UV radiation. When vinyl dries out it can fissure, crack, and split.
To clean it you can use the same car shampoo you use on the rest of the finish. Some people use leather cleaner. If mildew is present you will need to use ammonia (1 part ammonia to 4 parts water) and brush this on the mildewed area. Rinse and then rinse some more.
There are lots of products you can use to protect the vinyl. Meguiar's and 3M both have products for exterior vinyl. You can also try 303 Aerospace Protectant from 303 products at www.303-products.com.
Good luck.

urchin34

Started at 4:30 this morning on my little project. So far, it looks great - well worth the time and effort. Now, I know I should probably read the other posts and find an answer there, but I'm too tired.

1) What do I use on the very wide black (feels like a plastic of some sort, though it looks like rubber) body side molding? Not cracked, but whitened in spots and has no gloss.

2) Years ago in another car, a few days after I treated my dash with a well-known product it cracked right down the middle. Since then, I have been afraid to use anything, so I drive around with the typical desert dash cover. Any problems with the other interior products that have been mentioned here? If used, any tips or precautions?

drscopem

Hi:
#53 - exterior and interior vinyl
Again there are multiple products available. Most people try to avoid silicon products for fear that they will break down the vinyl. An excellent cleaner and conditioner for both vinyl and rubber is Meguiar's #40 for vinyl and rubber. This will work for both interior and exterior surfaces.
If the surface is clean then for the exterior try Black Again (it works on any color), Zaino Z-16 Tire Gloss (works great on exterior trim too), The Wax Shop's Bumper Black (which also works on trim), among many others. For the white spots try rubbing warm peanut butter on them with a toothbrush (I'm not kidding. The oils may replenish what's been lost). If this doesn't work then the white spots are stains. You may have to recolor them. I have successfully used Kiwi liquid Honor Guard shoe polish many times.
For interior vinyl I use Vinylex by Lexol. It contains a UV protectant and does a nice job. You can also try 303 Aerospace protectant (See earlier post).
Why not share with us what you used and how it went?

orange606

drscopem,
Have you ever used a product called bumper, and trim reconditioner that is sold by Griots Garage. It seems to be the same thing as polishing the trim. They say it perminetly dies the plastic. Any thoughts?

drscopem

Hi:
Griot's Garage bumper and trim reconditioner #11183 - 4 ounces - $12.95
Yes I have used it. It recolors/restains the plastic trim by permanently dyeing vinyl and rubber. I tried some side by side on a faded piece of trim with Kiwi Honor Guard black liquid shoe polish at $2.29 for 4 ounces. I applied 2 thin coats of each. Neither I nor others I asked could see any difference between them.
Remember, shoe polish restains/recolors/dyes your shoes every time you use it. Once your shoes are dry they don't bleed the polish when wet do they? Mine don't either.
I would try all of the suggestions in post #54 before resorting to the shoe polish.
Good luck.

robin2000

I just got a black mustang convertible, black top, and want to keep it beautiful. I come from a long line of truck owners (aka Armor All once a year is plenty of effort) and so I'm completely ignorant about what I should do. Or more importantly, what I should NOT do. I keep reading about permanent damage and scratching, etc. I have the California Car mop, which I love; it is a must for black car owners. Any suggestions on what to use for the top? Special tips for black cars?

orange606

drscopem
I must not be applieing it right, or not useing the right polish. I will have to get that polish because the stuff i am using, even after a coat of z-16 will rub off when its wet. Could you describe how you apply the polish?

drscopem

Hi:
There is an excellent article by Larry Reynolds on convertible top care at www.carcareonline.com. Look under the how-to articles. He also sells convertible top cleaners (Porsche and Sonax) and protectants. Porsche top cleaners can also be purchased from www.autopia-carcare.com.
Another option is to return to your dealer and get the Ford-approved cleaner and protectant from the parts department. Your owner's manual may also list specific recommendations.
Good luck.

drscopem

Hi:
When you dye/stain/recolor your trim you are applying a surface coat of color to a relatively inert object not designed to absorb anything. I have not noticed that it rubs off easily but I don't rub on it for at least a week. Remember this is a surface coating that needs time to fully dry. After all of the things listed in vinyl above have been tried and proven unsuccessful, I resort to shoe polish.
After the car has been washed, I apply two thin coats to the areas that need it. I let the car sit in the sun for awhile then go about my business. I do not wash the car for a week. I do not put anything on top of it for at least a week. In a week I touch it up if needed (it's never been needed). I use the Kiwi Honor Guard liquid black shoe polish because of the high gloss but I imagine any Kiwi liquid black shoe polish should yield similar results. It may need touching up from time to time as everything weathers but I have used the Black Again type of products over it and they have done well.
I would wait a week or two before putting anything on top of it. If applied correctly, Z-16 should not be immediately needed. Of course, if the Z-16 by itself does the job satisfactorily, then no further intervention is needed.
If all of the suggestions (cleaners, renewers, peanut butter, shoe polish) are unsuccessful then the only options left are to remove the trim and paint it with bumper and trim paint or just replace the trim piece with a new one. If you think the Griot's Garage bumper and trim reconditioner will do better for you, then please give it a try.
Let us know how it turns out. Good luck.

pblevine

I've used Zaino's Leather In A Bottle (Z9?) and can report good results on both leather and interior vinyl. There are a few spot near the door sill were shoe scuff marks proved to be very tough. I used a little Fantastic (on the cloth - not directly sprayed) and that seemed to do the job. And I then recoated the area with Z9.

Question: Are you all saying I should and/or could use liquid shoe polish on my tires?

urchin34

Trying to make a car look like new can sure get addictive. Maybe after neglecting it so long, the results are just more dramatic. At any rate, will post the details when I get my finger coordination back.

Can I assume products mentioned in #54 do not contain silicon?

Also, black metal wiper arms -- use the bumper and trim paint mentioned above or something else? They are worn through to bare metal in spots.

Totally off the subject -- anyone know a trick to easily remove 30 year-old contact paper from kitchen shelves? Next weekend project.

abm1

I can't speek for the other products, but Vinylex does contain silicone. Personally, I'm unsure how much of the drying out problem is silicone and how much is petrolium distilates.

For the wiper arms I would use satin finish auto trim paint. You should be able to find it in an auto parts store. Wipers are usually easy to remove, so its probably easier to paint them off of the car rather then trying to avoid over spray.
(falls into the ounce of prevention catagory for me)

As far as the contact paper- try heating it with a hairdryer as you peel it off. It will probably be a tedious job. If that doesn't work- buy wood, cut to length.

Hope this helps
Adam

coachwats

Don't know where to put this topic but what are the pros/cons of front end masks. I understand they do well keeping the rocks from chipping paint but I been told unless you remove and wax the frontend every month paint sticks to bra(I live in the desert)especially in the heat. I would only buy one for protection not looks. Any feedback with front end mask in general is appreciated.

pedroc

Greetings,

I just took possession of my Heather Mist 3.2TL on Thursday and am suffering from New Car anxiety! I'm the kind of person who really takes cares of their cars, and I'm afraid I've had some bad luck right from the get go! They say things happen in 3's....

#1
---
Thursday night, on the highway heard the PING of a rock striking my car. Turns out it struck the rear bumber, above the licence plate, leaving two small BLACK chip marks where the paint used to be! I don't think anything but touch up paint will fix this but UGH, it's SO NEW!

#2
---
Sunday I hand wash my car, doing EVERYTHING right -- even used an expensive chamois to dry the car. Much to my dismay (man was I PEEVED), a LOOONG (7 inch) scratch on the trunk of the car has developed....MAN IS IT NOTICABLE! It's all I see now and the car is only 4 days old!! It appears as if I may have caused it with the "dragging" action of the chamois while drying -- must have been some dirt particulate caught under the chamois....don't ask me how, but it's the only thing that makes sense. Can hardly feel with the finger nail, and very slight under a finger...what shall I do??? Go to the dealer? Fix it myself? Leave it? (This is not an option...I see it all the time now...and to think that I might have caused it...you know what I'm feeling!)

#3
---
Notice a blackened band across the back of the driver's leather seat (parchment/tan in colour) -- tried cleaning with a leather polish but it doesn't want to come out. Must have been caused by a pair of black shorts I was wearing -- and it was hot, so I must have been perspiring out there. What to use??

Thanks in advance -- I think this is a fantastic forum for people who take pride in their cars!

orange606

urchin34,

My windshield wipers were in bad condition too. The paint had worn down to the medal in a few places. I went and got a can of rust-oleum satin black spray paint, and a can of clean metal primer. I took the wipers off the car, removed the blades, and cleaned the wiper arms. Also, I removed any loose or flaking paint. I hung the wiper arms from the ceiling on the side of my house. I then sprayed on primer, let it dry as per instructions on the can. I then painted the wipers black. I would do at least two coats of the black paint. Make sure every part is painted. Let it dry for a few days then re-assemble, and put them back on the car.

gmw2216

Does anyone know a good product or method for cleaning engines? I'm a little worried about getting that stuff on my paint. Thanks, Gary.

drjyothi

i just bought my first black car 6 months ago ('99 E320) and have started noticing that when light from the sun or even headlights hits the side of the car at a certain angle (90 degrees to surface), i see a lot of pale whitish reflections. if you move to a different angle, they disappear. it has become very bothersome to me. they almost seem to be from under the clear coat because they can't simply be wiped off and cleaned. they only show up when light is cast on the car. if it's in the shade they don't show up.

bottom line: what is it? and how do i get rid of them.

also, are there any good products for that film that builds up on the inside surface of the windows? i'd like something that removes it easily and effectively. i understand the film comes from "plasticizers?" from the interior plastic trim.

thanks for any help here.

pj in dallas

mongus

If oxidation is very bad what about wet sanding it with 1500-2000 grit sandpaper? I know this sounds severe but I have used it before and it seems to work well IF you do it sparingly and very lightly with lots of water.

drscopem

Hi:
#68 - engine cleaner
If you don't know what you are doing you can hurt yourself, your car, and mother earth. Many products are very caustic and will burn your hands. If splashed into your eyes they will blind you. They will etch/stain your paint. Some people like to clean a cold engine, others prefer it warm but not hot. Always read directions. Put lots of soapy water on the surrounding fenders, paint, etc. to minimize the risk from splashing.
All susceptible electronics, air intake, etc must be plugged or sealed with plastic or you will destroy your electronics, etc. Some people use just WD40. Others like the Gunk brand. Some like the one from Griot's Garage (#11156 or kit #11550) at www.griotsgarage.com. Again, if you don't know what you are doing I would take it to someone who does.
#69 - spider webs
What you are describing sounds like spider webs. These are light surface scratches that resemble a spider's web. They are usually due to using polyester in the drying towels, using a car wash, etc. You can only reduce them with a polish or glaze such as 3M Imperial hand glaze or fill them with a few coats of wax or sealer.
- window film
I like the Wax Shop's Oily Film Remover and Window Cleaner. It's $9.95 for 20 ounces or $23.90 per gallon. You can get it locally or at www.waxdepot.com. For the outside I use Eagle One 20/20 window cleaner.
#70 - heavy oxidation
I would use either polishes or glazes. Meguiar's make a fine cut, medium cut, and heavy cut . Griot's Garage also makes 3 levels of polishes. I would try these before even considering sandpaper.
Good luck.

rmoya

I use a product called STEAM. I believe it was made by STP. It had a 2 part process; the first was a degreaser, the second was a protectant and sealer. The can advertised that it was not harmful for your paint and rubber parts and although I believed it I still took the proper precautions.(covering areas and rising often with water). I dont beleive that ANY of the products were inteded to be sprayed directly on your paint finish. I also opted for a warm engine. The degreaser worked fairly well, but the best part was the sealer. It worked FANTASTIC and brought back a new engine shine to my car. Basically you spray the entire engine compartment with it, using the same premise as spray paint. Avoid drips and let it dry. It may have a whitish look to it but the engine heat after running for a while will eliminate that. I havent seen the protectant on the shelves too often so you may have a tough time finding it. But the degreaser is easy to find.
Please keep me posted with your results. Good Luck.

ndui

i am thinking of trying either zaino, nu finish or finish first, which has the best shine and lasts the longest? what about glo shield?

how long will it last before i hav to wash my car and use a replenisher (hint: i am very lazy, actually there are 4 cars, 2 with clear coats and 2 with out, so it can become quite a choir)?

it looks like vinylex for interior but what about carpets and upholstery(sp)? can u use vinylex for tires since u can use it on rubber?

buylowman

Is there any reason to avoid waxing a brand new car? Does the paint need a certain time to cure properly or can you wax a new car immediately

fastdriver

buylowman-

No need to wait with today's paint jobs. The sooner you protect the finish the better.

fastdriver

pblevine

I can highly recommend the Zaino products. Great quality, ease of use, and of primary concern, a fantastic shine! Since I have not used Finish First, I cannot comment on their products. All I can say is that you can't go wrong with Zaino.

You can wash your car any time you feel the need to keep it clean. Its really a factor of how much dust and dirt has built up. The Zaino polish will not be removed easily. It seems to stand up for months at a time. Just use a gentle car wash such as Zaino's.

tonewheel

Haven't been to this site in many weeks. I'm seeing numerous posting concerning Bleche White and Tire Protectants, mainly Meguiars new tire gel. Here's my 2 cents worth:

I've used Bleche White since the early 70's and have never had problems with wheels or painted surfaces. You have to be sure you are using it correctly...it is the BEST product for cleaning tires. Make sure you do FIRST before even getting a hose near your car. Spray the product onto a DRY, COOL tire. Let it sit for about 30 seconds. Then, take a scrub brush and thoroughly scrub the tire. Rinse. If you have whitewalls and clean as I've described, you will be amazed.

Secondly, the new Meguiars tire gel is the best thing I have found for LONG LASTING treatment. BUT, if you find it does not take or last for weeks, it is probably because your tires have not been cleaned sufficiently prior to applying the gel. Scrub those bad boys with Bleche White...you won't be disappointed.

Finally, your satisfaction with the Meguiars product will depend upon the level of gloss you want on your tires. For me, it provides just the right amount of flat black. Tires are not shiny and glossy...for me, that's an odd look. One coat of the Meguiars provide a sheen that will fade to a flat black in a few days...and it will last a very long time.

orange606

tonewheel,
I will agree that Bleach Wite is a good product, but I think an all-purpose degreaser can do the same job . Also, the same cleaner/degreaser can be used as a wheel cleaner. It's also environmentally friendly so it wont hurt you or others. I agree that the results you get with Meguiars tire gel are directly proportionate to how clean the tire is. I am going to try the tire treat solution in a few weeks, and see how that holds up. I found the Zaino tire treatment looses its finish after a week, and it collects a lot of dust.

orange606

I wanted to add that I to do not like a high gloss on my tires either, but I do like a satin finish. If these treatments are not going to stay glossy for a long time, why don they dry to a duller finish in one day instead of a week.

mtsang

tonewheel,
orange606,

I was an earlier critic of the Meguiars Tire Gel Product. It makes sense that the product will be more effective if the base surface is clean (properly prepared). I don't think the instruction that came with the Tire Gel said anything about cleaning the tires first though.

We are in a drought emergency here in NJ at the moment. Once that is lifted, I will take your advice and clean the tires first before applying Meguiars. I'll properly use the Green Cleaner clearner/degreaser. Thanks.

orange606

By the way I found a detailing forum where Chris Parrish is the moderator. Coincidentally he also recommends simple green for cleaning tires.

soccer17

HI, 2 of my friends and i own a detailing business in pittsburgh that is slowly growing and we are looking for products that we can use that are fast, but still give the cars the nice shine. If anyone has any suggestions for products that would help me alot. And if anyone from pittsburgh is interested in having their car detiled visit our site: J&A Detailing (http://members.aol.com/selanne2/JADetailing.htm)

shoman

#69,
Since you indicated that various surface preparations didn't help your condition, you are probably right that it's under the paint. You might have a section that has been re-coated with clear from the factory. This happens a lot more than most people realize. IF a vehicle gets a run, or imperfection/dent that isn't caught before painting, it can be "repaired" by hand before shipping. I had a new Tahoe come in with the LR quarter repainted. If you looked you could see the blend line and the paint had several spots similar to what you describe. Also, a repair I had done on a door of my SHO is not visible except from only one certain angle and type of light. It was a dent repair with a re-clearcoat of the entire door. That door looks a different color in that certain light, but perfect from every other angle. I've learned to live with it.

#74 New cars can be waxed/detailed as soon as you get them. The paint is cured and chances are the car has spent some time on a lot and it also had transportation. Treat it gently as you should any paint. Use a high quality pure wax and when the inevitable fine swirls and scratches appear, use a fine glaze product lightly to bring back the shine as needed.

Don M>

minerva1999sae

I just washed my car today and the black paint is covered with water spots and streaks. It's black so these spots really stand out. Does anybody have a technique to avoid these annoying and ugly spots. I used some Turtle Wax wash that claims to be spot free on the container, so much for my confidence in the company. My car is two weeks old, what kind of wax and wash would be best, meaning shiny without water spots. Thanks.

mtsang

Hello, I have a friend who just pick up his car from some bodywork. The body-shop told him to just use liquid detergent to wash his car and to use glaze for shine. ANd to make it last, he recommended using bees wax.

This doesn't sound like a very good suggestions but coming from a body-shop owner - does it have any validity?

KThomp100

I have a new black Lexus. Have not had one problem with water spots or streaks. I keep a LOT of wax (Zaino) on my car and always towel dry it with a 100% cotton towel while the car is still wet. First (this will be unorthodox to some but it works awesome) I use the rubber end of a window squeegee to get all the large water areas off the car. This does not streak or scratch the paint at all. Then I go over it with a white cotton towel. Do all this before it has a chance to dry and KEEP IT WET while you are washing the car. Don't try to drive around and "air dry" it, that doesn't work and guarantees spotting on black cars. I use Zymol car wash and not only does it work superb, it smells like coconut oil while washing. Check out some previous posts about cleaning, there really is some good reading and advice in this message group. Good luck--Oh yes, to keep the dust off I got a "Callifornia Duster" at Costco. About $12.00 and I got a large one and a small one for the interior dash and gauges etc.

minerva1999sae

thanks for the hints. But one question, what is a window squeegee, and where can I get one?

KThomp100

A window squeegee is what you would use to clean your windows at a gas station. The long handled two sided thing, one side has a rubber to dry the window while the other has the sponge part. Any auto parts store has them. Just make sure that EACH TIME you go to use the rubber part that you clean it off with the car wash and then rinse it really good. Again, some may cringe at this but it works great if you keep the rubber part clean. Good luck. Check out zaino at www.zainobros.com

ruski

I could not wait any longer to verify if my 7 coats of Zaino would wear out in 6 months. There was just no sign of it wearing out. And I really had to Zaino something. So I did it again - I Zainoed my GTP just for fun. Check the pics at:

http://www.cyburban.com/~afyodoro/mypics/autos/gtp-zaino2/jpgs

Maybe I should register with Zainoholics Anonymous.

shawnmalone

do you Zaino the grass also?

minerva1999sae

You're right, this method does sound a little frightenning for the paint. I'll look into it. Everyone here seems to use Zaino, I really hate ordering from the internet, unless I have to. Are there any waxes at the stores that will work well. Trak Auto, Walmart, Target, certaintly does not lack a variety of selection. There's got to be one that works very well. Any one has a suggestion?

ruski

you can also buy the squeegee-like new product called WaterBlade (I believe). It has a softer, silicon edge.

minerva1999sae - with Zaino, you actually don't order "online". You just fill out an order form and mail it to Zaino with a check. No credit cards (although I wish I could order Zaino with a credit card).

pblevine

Up here in the north east we're caught in a drought cannot wash our cars. Yet, my car is clean thanks to Zaino. Or should I say: Thanks Sal for Z6. Instead of washing, I've been using Z6 to dust and clean. I think its the best all around product from Zaino. I use it to clean my windows (inside and out), tires, and Z'd finish too.

minerva1999sae

This new WaterBlade thing is definitely worth looking into. Thanks. It's quite sunny in my driveway today so I don't think I'll wash it until the evening. That was my problem yester, the sun beating down on the water dried it really fast, faster than I can towel dry.

minerva1999sae

Just came back from Trak Auto. No WaterBlades, but they did have squeegees, after feeling the rubber part, I got too nervous and didn't go through with it. I wonder where these Waterblades exist?

vivona

minerva1999sae - Though the Zaino lovers in this conference may blast me for saying so, Nu Finish paste wax is easy to use, does a great job cleaning, provides a good shine and lasts for months and months. It only takes one coat. I have used it for about 15 years and always get 8 months to one year per application.

KThomp100

If you really don't want to do mail order products, I previously used Mequiars GOLD class liquid. IT was easy to put on, gave a great shine and lasted well. It is one of the more expensive ones but you get what you pay for.

quickshift

I heard there is a car polish that cleans dirt and
waxes car's surface. Any body with experience with the waterless carwash? Does it protect the paint or strip it?

drscopem

Hi:
over the counter waxes
I agree that that the Meguiar's Gold Class is a nice wax but it's durability is less than some others. If you like Meguiar's, try their Medallion Series. It is a polymer product and does a nice job. Try the NAPA auto stores.
3M also makes excellent waxes. They are a major supplier to pro detailers and body & paint shops. Try NAPA stores or a local auto paint store. You may try Eagle One which is at the Wal-Mart.
California Water Blade
You may buy this from www.waxdepot.com or www.autosupermart.com. I'm told that some Pep Boys carry them. As with a squeege, the risk is that a piece of dirt will get trapped and scratch your paint as you drag it across. Its blade is medical grade silicone.
I have personally purchased products from Zaino Brothers, Carcareonline, etc. and have been pleased by their excellent service. With Sal Zaino, if you are nervous about ordering, just call and order COD. There is a $5.00 additional charge for this service.
Good luck.

jmelchio

Awhile back, somebody had posted the following home page for a distributor of Zaino products. This place takes credit cards.

I have never used this distributor, but for those of you that want to order Zaino on your credit card, it's worth checking in to.

http://www.bluemarble.net/~dlharden/glossboss.htm

jematt

I have used the "Gloss Boss" mentioned above (I live in Indianapolis, and have picked up my Zaino products personally), so I can attest to their very good, friendly service. If you call, you will probably talk to Roz. I am not sure if she ships everywhere, though. She will also return email very promptly.

raammartin

What is the difference in the above products? I need to wax my new car. I don't want to spend a lot of money so which gives great quality w/ least money? I also want to avoid swirl marks. How can I do that? I do have a buffer. Thanks.