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Waxes and Polishes, Part II
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The big problem with vinyl, whether interior or exterior, is UV radiation. When vinyl dries out it can fissure, crack, and split.
To clean it you can use the same car shampoo you use on the rest of the finish. Some people use leather cleaner. If mildew is present you will need to use ammonia (1 part ammonia to 4 parts water) and brush this on the mildewed area. Rinse and then rinse some more.
There are lots of products you can use to protect the vinyl. Meguiar's and 3M both have products for exterior vinyl. You can also try 303 Aerospace Protectant from 303 products at www.303-products.com.
Good luck.
1) What do I use on the very wide black (feels like a plastic of some sort, though it looks like rubber) body side molding? Not cracked, but whitened in spots and has no gloss.
2) Years ago in another car, a few days after I treated my dash with a well-known product it cracked right down the middle. Since then, I have been afraid to use anything, so I drive around with the typical desert dash cover. Any problems with the other interior products that have been mentioned here? If used, any tips or precautions?
#53 - exterior and interior vinyl
Again there are multiple products available. Most people try to avoid silicon products for fear that they will break down the vinyl. An excellent cleaner and conditioner for both vinyl and rubber is Meguiar's #40 for vinyl and rubber. This will work for both interior and exterior surfaces.
If the surface is clean then for the exterior try Black Again (it works on any color), Zaino Z-16 Tire Gloss (works great on exterior trim too), The Wax Shop's Bumper Black (which also works on trim), among many others. For the white spots try rubbing warm peanut butter on them with a toothbrush (I'm not kidding. The oils may replenish what's been lost). If this doesn't work then the white spots are stains. You may have to recolor them. I have successfully used Kiwi liquid Honor Guard shoe polish many times.
For interior vinyl I use Vinylex by Lexol. It contains a UV protectant and does a nice job. You can also try 303 Aerospace protectant (See earlier post).
Why not share with us what you used and how it went?
Have you ever used a product called bumper, and trim reconditioner that is sold by Griots Garage. It seems to be the same thing as polishing the trim. They say it perminetly dies the plastic. Any thoughts?
Griot's Garage bumper and trim reconditioner #11183 - 4 ounces - $12.95
Yes I have used it. It recolors/restains the plastic trim by permanently dyeing vinyl and rubber. I tried some side by side on a faded piece of trim with Kiwi Honor Guard black liquid shoe polish at $2.29 for 4 ounces. I applied 2 thin coats of each. Neither I nor others I asked could see any difference between them.
Remember, shoe polish restains/recolors/dyes your shoes every time you use it. Once your shoes are dry they don't bleed the polish when wet do they? Mine don't either.
I would try all of the suggestions in post #54 before resorting to the shoe polish.
Good luck.
I must not be applieing it right, or not useing the right polish. I will have to get that polish because the stuff i am using, even after a coat of z-16 will rub off when its wet. Could you describe how you apply the polish?
There is an excellent article by Larry Reynolds on convertible top care at www.carcareonline.com. Look under the how-to articles. He also sells convertible top cleaners (Porsche and Sonax) and protectants. Porsche top cleaners can also be purchased from www.autopia-carcare.com.
Another option is to return to your dealer and get the Ford-approved cleaner and protectant from the parts department. Your owner's manual may also list specific recommendations.
Good luck.
When you dye/stain/recolor your trim you are applying a surface coat of color to a relatively inert object not designed to absorb anything. I have not noticed that it rubs off easily but I don't rub on it for at least a week. Remember this is a surface coating that needs time to fully dry. After all of the things listed in vinyl above have been tried and proven unsuccessful, I resort to shoe polish.
After the car has been washed, I apply two thin coats to the areas that need it. I let the car sit in the sun for awhile then go about my business. I do not wash the car for a week. I do not put anything on top of it for at least a week. In a week I touch it up if needed (it's never been needed). I use the Kiwi Honor Guard liquid black shoe polish because of the high gloss but I imagine any Kiwi liquid black shoe polish should yield similar results. It may need touching up from time to time as everything weathers but I have used the Black Again type of products over it and they have done well.
I would wait a week or two before putting anything on top of it. If applied correctly, Z-16 should not be immediately needed. Of course, if the Z-16 by itself does the job satisfactorily, then no further intervention is needed.
If all of the suggestions (cleaners, renewers, peanut butter, shoe polish) are unsuccessful then the only options left are to remove the trim and paint it with bumper and trim paint or just replace the trim piece with a new one. If you think the Griot's Garage bumper and trim reconditioner will do better for you, then please give it a try.
Let us know how it turns out. Good luck.
Question: Are you all saying I should and/or could use liquid shoe polish on my tires?
Can I assume products mentioned in #54 do not contain silicon?
Also, black metal wiper arms -- use the bumper and trim paint mentioned above or something else? They are worn through to bare metal in spots.
Totally off the subject -- anyone know a trick to easily remove 30 year-old contact paper from kitchen shelves? Next weekend project.
For the wiper arms I would use satin finish auto trim paint. You should be able to find it in an auto parts store. Wipers are usually easy to remove, so its probably easier to paint them off of the car rather then trying to avoid over spray.
(falls into the ounce of prevention catagory for me)
As far as the contact paper- try heating it with a hairdryer as you peel it off. It will probably be a tedious job. If that doesn't work- buy wood, cut to length.
Hope this helps
Adam
I just took possession of my Heather Mist 3.2TL on Thursday and am suffering from New Car anxiety! I'm the kind of person who really takes cares of their cars, and I'm afraid I've had some bad luck right from the get go! They say things happen in 3's....
#1
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Thursday night, on the highway heard the PING of a rock striking my car. Turns out it struck the rear bumber, above the licence plate, leaving two small BLACK chip marks where the paint used to be! I don't think anything but touch up paint will fix this but UGH, it's SO NEW!
#2
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Sunday I hand wash my car, doing EVERYTHING right -- even used an expensive chamois to dry the car. Much to my dismay (man was I PEEVED), a LOOONG (7 inch) scratch on the trunk of the car has developed....MAN IS IT NOTICABLE! It's all I see now and the car is only 4 days old!! It appears as if I may have caused it with the "dragging" action of the chamois while drying -- must have been some dirt particulate caught under the chamois....don't ask me how, but it's the only thing that makes sense. Can hardly feel with the finger nail, and very slight under a finger...what shall I do??? Go to the dealer? Fix it myself? Leave it? (This is not an option...I see it all the time now...and to think that I might have caused it...you know what I'm feeling!)
#3
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Notice a blackened band across the back of the driver's leather seat (parchment/tan in colour) -- tried cleaning with a leather polish but it doesn't want to come out. Must have been caused by a pair of black shorts I was wearing -- and it was hot, so I must have been perspiring out there. What to use??
Thanks in advance -- I think this is a fantastic forum for people who take pride in their cars!
My windshield wipers were in bad condition too. The paint had worn down to the medal in a few places. I went and got a can of rust-oleum satin black spray paint, and a can of clean metal primer. I took the wipers off the car, removed the blades, and cleaned the wiper arms. Also, I removed any loose or flaking paint. I hung the wiper arms from the ceiling on the side of my house. I then sprayed on primer, let it dry as per instructions on the can. I then painted the wipers black. I would do at least two coats of the black paint. Make sure every part is painted. Let it dry for a few days then re-assemble, and put them back on the car.
bottom line: what is it? and how do i get rid of them.
also, are there any good products for that film that builds up on the inside surface of the windows? i'd like something that removes it easily and effectively. i understand the film comes from "plasticizers?" from the interior plastic trim.
thanks for any help here.
pj in dallas
#68 - engine cleaner
If you don't know what you are doing you can hurt yourself, your car, and mother earth. Many products are very caustic and will burn your hands. If splashed into your eyes they will blind you. They will etch/stain your paint. Some people like to clean a cold engine, others prefer it warm but not hot. Always read directions. Put lots of soapy water on the surrounding fenders, paint, etc. to minimize the risk from splashing.
All susceptible electronics, air intake, etc must be plugged or sealed with plastic or you will destroy your electronics, etc. Some people use just WD40. Others like the Gunk brand. Some like the one from Griot's Garage (#11156 or kit #11550) at www.griotsgarage.com. Again, if you don't know what you are doing I would take it to someone who does.
#69 - spider webs
What you are describing sounds like spider webs. These are light surface scratches that resemble a spider's web. They are usually due to using polyester in the drying towels, using a car wash, etc. You can only reduce them with a polish or glaze such as 3M Imperial hand glaze or fill them with a few coats of wax or sealer.
- window film
I like the Wax Shop's Oily Film Remover and Window Cleaner. It's $9.95 for 20 ounces or $23.90 per gallon. You can get it locally or at www.waxdepot.com. For the outside I use Eagle One 20/20 window cleaner.
#70 - heavy oxidation
I would use either polishes or glazes. Meguiar's make a fine cut, medium cut, and heavy cut . Griot's Garage also makes 3 levels of polishes. I would try these before even considering sandpaper.
Good luck.
Please keep me posted with your results. Good Luck.
how long will it last before i hav to wash my car and use a replenisher (hint: i am very lazy, actually there are 4 cars, 2 with clear coats and 2 with out, so it can become quite a choir)?
it looks like vinylex for interior but what about carpets and upholstery(sp)? can u use vinylex for tires since u can use it on rubber?
No need to wait with today's paint jobs. The sooner you protect the finish the better.
fastdriver
You can wash your car any time you feel the need to keep it clean. Its really a factor of how much dust and dirt has built up. The Zaino polish will not be removed easily. It seems to stand up for months at a time. Just use a gentle car wash such as Zaino's.
I've used Bleche White since the early 70's and have never had problems with wheels or painted surfaces. You have to be sure you are using it correctly...it is the BEST product for cleaning tires. Make sure you do FIRST before even getting a hose near your car. Spray the product onto a DRY, COOL tire. Let it sit for about 30 seconds. Then, take a scrub brush and thoroughly scrub the tire. Rinse. If you have whitewalls and clean as I've described, you will be amazed.
Secondly, the new Meguiars tire gel is the best thing I have found for LONG LASTING treatment. BUT, if you find it does not take or last for weeks, it is probably because your tires have not been cleaned sufficiently prior to applying the gel. Scrub those bad boys with Bleche White...you won't be disappointed.
Finally, your satisfaction with the Meguiars product will depend upon the level of gloss you want on your tires. For me, it provides just the right amount of flat black. Tires are not shiny and glossy...for me, that's an odd look. One coat of the Meguiars provide a sheen that will fade to a flat black in a few days...and it will last a very long time.
I will agree that Bleach Wite is a good product, but I think an all-purpose degreaser can do the same job . Also, the same cleaner/degreaser can be used as a wheel cleaner. It's also environmentally friendly so it wont hurt you or others. I agree that the results you get with Meguiars tire gel are directly proportionate to how clean the tire is. I am going to try the tire treat solution in a few weeks, and see how that holds up. I found the Zaino tire treatment looses its finish after a week, and it collects a lot of dust.
orange606,
I was an earlier critic of the Meguiars Tire Gel Product. It makes sense that the product will be more effective if the base surface is clean (properly prepared). I don't think the instruction that came with the Tire Gel said anything about cleaning the tires first though.
We are in a drought emergency here in NJ at the moment. Once that is lifted, I will take your advice and clean the tires first before applying Meguiars. I'll properly use the Green Cleaner clearner/degreaser. Thanks.
Since you indicated that various surface preparations didn't help your condition, you are probably right that it's under the paint. You might have a section that has been re-coated with clear from the factory. This happens a lot more than most people realize. IF a vehicle gets a run, or imperfection/dent that isn't caught before painting, it can be "repaired" by hand before shipping. I had a new Tahoe come in with the LR quarter repainted. If you looked you could see the blend line and the paint had several spots similar to what you describe. Also, a repair I had done on a door of my SHO is not visible except from only one certain angle and type of light. It was a dent repair with a re-clearcoat of the entire door. That door looks a different color in that certain light, but perfect from every other angle. I've learned to live with it.
#74 New cars can be waxed/detailed as soon as you get them. The paint is cured and chances are the car has spent some time on a lot and it also had transportation. Treat it gently as you should any paint. Use a high quality pure wax and when the inevitable fine swirls and scratches appear, use a fine glaze product lightly to bring back the shine as needed.
Don M>
This doesn't sound like a very good suggestions but coming from a body-shop owner - does it have any validity?
http://www.cyburban.com/~afyodoro/mypics/autos/gtp-zaino2/jpgs
Maybe I should register with Zainoholics Anonymous.
minerva1999sae - with Zaino, you actually don't order "online". You just fill out an order form and mail it to Zaino with a check. No credit cards (although I wish I could order Zaino with a credit card).
waxes car's surface. Any body with experience with the waterless carwash? Does it protect the paint or strip it?
over the counter waxes
I agree that that the Meguiar's Gold Class is a nice wax but it's durability is less than some others. If you like Meguiar's, try their Medallion Series. It is a polymer product and does a nice job. Try the NAPA auto stores.
3M also makes excellent waxes. They are a major supplier to pro detailers and body & paint shops. Try NAPA stores or a local auto paint store. You may try Eagle One which is at the Wal-Mart.
California Water Blade
You may buy this from www.waxdepot.com or www.autosupermart.com. I'm told that some Pep Boys carry them. As with a squeege, the risk is that a piece of dirt will get trapped and scratch your paint as you drag it across. Its blade is medical grade silicone.
I have personally purchased products from Zaino Brothers, Carcareonline, etc. and have been pleased by their excellent service. With Sal Zaino, if you are nervous about ordering, just call and order COD. There is a $5.00 additional charge for this service.
Good luck.
I have never used this distributor, but for those of you that want to order Zaino on your credit card, it's worth checking in to.
http://www.bluemarble.net/~dlharden/glossboss.htm