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Being used to 25,000 miles OCI's (turbo diesel), that would certainly be cause enough for me to skip a turbo charged (gasser) Subaru.
What is the definition of synthetic oil in europe?
- - To narrow your brush stroke a bit for the VW/Audi world, only the 1.8T motor is known to make sludge (and only when non-502.00 certified oils are used). As for the Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep world, the only one of their engines that is a known slugger is the 2.7 liter V6.
My point is that you can not have the same extended OCI for all cars. You need to consider the car, how you drive, and the oil used. I believe that all cars can produce sludge and some of the engines of cars I listed have been reported to be prone to having problems with sludge.
Some I understand even had problems with the OEM oil. Did any have problems with synthetic oil? I don't know.
These cars need have oil changes at regular drain intervals established by the OEM to reduce the likelihood of sludge formation, and to insure the OEM honors any extended warranty.
I have heard that some owners are just removing the screen. We are trying a 15K extended OCI with 100% synthetic oil and a good oil filter.
In the future to meet government fuel economy and emission standards, I think more engines will be turbo. I consider all turbo engines as severe service and would not exceed 15,000 miles a year without an UOA.
In Europe (and elsewhere), the oil must be a Group IV or Group V classification to be legally considered a synthetic oil.
"Some I understand even had problems with the OEM oil. Did any have problems with synthetic oil? I don't know."
I'm familiar with the VW 1.8T issue, and have yet to see a single documented case where an owner ran the recommended 502.00 oil for the recommended 5.000 mile OCI, and had a sludge issue. That said, many-many dealerships and quick lube places completely ignored VW's 502.00 recommendation and used bulk conventional oil (Quaker State and Pennzoil seemed to be common). In those cases, when owners with sludged engines showed documentation of timely oil changes, especially in the dealership service department, they got a new engine.
Regarding the Chrysler 2.7 and the Toyota engines, I've never seen a documented case of sludging when synthetic oil (even a Group III wannabe synthetic) was used. FWIW, both my mother and my mother-in-law have Toyotas with engines that are known sludgers, and in both cars I use oil that meets the VW 502.00 oil specification, and in both cases, the engines are clean as the proverbial whistle under the valve covers.
Best regards,
Shipo
You see, you need stuff to block it first (like sludge) for it to be a problem. Removing filter will only let the clogging develop somewhere else, IMHO.
I believe that primary issue is that SOA is recommending underspecified oil, similar to using non 502.00 oil in VW engine. Yes it may work when you cut OCI in half (this is what SOA solution to problem is) but better oil may let you use original OCI (7500).
Krzys
3-3/4 months, that seems excessively precise. Not 4 months, but 3.75...really?
Best regards,
Shipo
I ran our 1998 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.8 for 170,000 miles with Mobil 1 0W-40 and ten to twelve thousand mile oil change intervals, and when I sold it, the engine was as clean inside as it was the day I drove the van off the showroom floor. Say what you will about the Dodge, that engine (the 3.3 and 3.8 twins) was and still is seriously robust.
Best regards,
Shipo
Krzys
Long story short, the 3.9, 5.2 and 5.9 liter engines (which are a very old and very-very durable design dating back to the mid 1960s) are not known sludgers, even when abused with poor service.
Best regards,
Shipo
On the other hand, turbos mated to diesels (TDI's) seem to have a more harmonious time of it, if my 25,000 miles OCI's are a reflection. Sump refill size is app 4.5 qt including cartridge filter change (steel casing is part of the engine)
F/F (6 MY's) to the 6 spd, DSG (2009 VW JETTA) or direct shift gearbox and now I agree with your assessment !! There still is maybe 1 to ...2 mpg max LOSS, but it is far better than the "slush box" es losses.
5w20 specifications are actually a set of more robust specifications than the 5w30 & 10w30 (overall) . For my .02 cents if I had a 5w20 specified for the car, I would used it (I actually interchange 0w20 also) and NOT 5w30 and/or 10w30.
The house brand (SuperTech) WalMart is run in the lowest bidder format. It is probably awarded among different manufacturers. So it very well could be Valvoline or Mobil (Exxon Mobil makes more conventional oil than synthetic, or... or.
Who's making them now? :confuse:
This leads me to a situation where late model cars, newer Hondas and Pontiac G6 (GM requires 7500 OCI) have a meter that says how many miles before a change oil is required or how much % before such car needs an oil change. Well w/ Synthetic, will the meter be the same 7,500 OCI or Not. Will the meter state a longer OCI?? :confuse: Since reading your former advise to me about 10K to 15K Syn OCI, what should you do if you own such late model cars. Other Oil experts pls. feel free to post your valued advise/ recommendations.
As for what I would do (and am doing with my new car), is to use synthetic oil and then, for the duration of the warranty, stay within the oil change guidelines as outlined by the manufacturer. During that time I can have a few UOAs run at my leisure and be ready to extend the time between changes accordingly when the warranty expires.
Best regards,
Shipo
I went to http://themotoroilevaluator.com/ website (feel free to go to the website),
to view the ratings of almost all motor oils sold. Does this mean that Regular Oil is as good as Synthetic oil?? Or, for some specs. like the Viscosity Index, its taken when oil is new but degrades over time, such that both may have close specs when new but Synthetic is far going to outlast regular oil after 7k, 8k or 10k miles, hence the choice of motor oil for each persons use. I welcome any input on this for the benefit of everyone.
Not going to be very unbiased in that case.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
In my mind at least, Amsoil = Scamzoil. :P
What does it mean? Other than the Noack (which I'm surprised about), nothing at all. New conventional oil of any given grade will have virtually identical properties as new synthetic oil. That said, if you test them 5,000 miles later, the results will tell a much different tale.
As for what should one do if they're using short OCIs, most individuals who are conversant on the subject, myself included, recommend that for folks running three to five thousand mile OCIs, they should stick with conventional oil, using synthetic is simply a waste of money (unless they have some other need like it being required for the car or if there are severe environmental conditions such as extreme heat or cold).
Turbo and a slush box are big no-no for me. Turbo and manual are a marriage made in heaven!!!
My Question is: Should I have it changed now, if not, when can I have it changed. Usually, when I have it changed, I also have the A/c belt, P. Steering and the Fan belt changed ( the labor cost is the same). Appreciate your input in this.
I had a Toyota 1600cc I4 engine in a 1997 Geo Prizm, and as I recall the belt was not due for routine replacement until about 100K miles. I'd bet the same is true for the slightly larger 1800 engine.
If you drive the car in extreme heat or cold, or it is the original belt, it may be better to replace it sooner rather than later at this point. If it is non-interference, all a broken belt will do is leave you stranded. Otherwise, you are out an engine.
Wrong topic anyway.
When I went to the website, The Motor oil evaluator.com, I noticed that for 5W-20 grade Synthetic, Valvoline was rated higher than Mobil 1 and for 5W-30 Synthetic, Pennzoil Platinum was rated higher then Mobil 1. What surprised me was that Castrol Syntec was rated at close to the bottom both for Synthetic and Regular oils. Is Mobil 1 being the first to produce synthetic resting on their laurels and not thinking of the competition? Are there other tests for motor oils out there? Do you care to comment on what I just mentioned?
In other words, if you are not racing bats to the wall, or towing redwood trees out of forests, or operating in extreme conditions in Alaska or Death Valley, or not adhering to the rigid demands of an automaker (who cannot in fact, demand that you use a particular brand of oil, only the "specs" of that oil), none of this really matters. Think about how the average car, running on oil bought in a convenience store, and driven by most negligent American drivers, routinely last 9-10 years anyway.
Anyway, since you asked, that's what I think---significant in absolute terms, but not important in relative terms.