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Incidently, for the 1985 model year the Toyota Camry was HIGHLY rated by Consumer Reports. Other folks who bought the same model year, talked about repairs and damage far in excess of my "BAD" experiences
"Of course, this would assume that the sulfated ash is the core cause of sludge, again, a giant leap for man, one small step for ???? "
?????? yup who knows??? So what you are saying now after saying that there is some sludge at 67k that there is no sludge at 200k? Magical reasoning??? Or maybe you are afraid to even think that there could be any sludge using conventional oil for you advocate using conventional oil? Who knows????? Or using your reasoning, can you prove that there is no sludge after 200k use using conventional oil?
I no longer need to post on this topic as you are continually either speaking for me in your posts, or failing to comprehend anything that I post. When my lips stop moving it will be time for you to respond.
"I made a mistake in responding at all to your inane drone."
Yeah, isn't it interesting to see YOUR faulty and flawed reasonings taken to its logical conclusions? I won't respond to your inane dronings anymore.
There are vocalToyota Sienna owners that would take umbrage to what you are saying, if you care to peruse the engine sludge thread . I think most folks would tolerate a "secret" fix or in the worst case a recall. Yet there are some folks who have been denied warranty work by the dealer even when the dealer performed the" mandatory" 3000 miles oil change interval!! All I can say is that I am glad I am not in the "old maid game" of which engines in the Toyota Sienna line will sludge up.
So more on point, would there be less or no engine sludge if synthetic oil were used? I am not sure here. The flash point for Mobil One synthetic is 455 degrees F.
http://www.infineum.com/information/passenger.html
I just got back an oil analysis from Blackstone. I was informed that while I have less than 0.25% of water in my oil, that there has been significant water damage and that the dispersants and detergents were useless.
Silicon went up from 90 PPM to 129 PPM Phosphorous was not available in my first test, but was off the chart at 490 PPM. Universal average is zero.
I put in no more than a pint of replacement coolant since January so I didn't consider it serious. Looks like it's more serious than I thought.
In 3,000 miles the oil was extremely dark.
Any suggestions?
From your post it is hard to discern if you have the Toyota Sienna? Also you have a leak somewhere between the coolant system and the crankcase. Sounds like shop time! (hopefully warranty)
Dave
A good reference indeed. Also because you asked specifically for a Mobil One SJ vs SL they have a web site www.mobil1.com.
Frankly with this age and mileage I'm trying to save up for a replacement. Only want to get 25K More out of it. Otherwise the car is well maintained. Spend average of 1200 per year on repairs and maintenance in the last 4 years.
Appears to be pinhole leaks. I'm wondering about flushing the radiator and then adding Alumaseal. But don't know if it will kill water pump, or other parts in the cooling system.
Ideas would be appreciated.
"Volatility dectease and viscosity stability are the main differences. I wouldn't worry about the differences though. And yes Mobil 1 is "overpriced" compared to the $.99 varieties. So far though my oil analysis (M1) say its OK for atleast 8K drain intervals. Depends on your comfort level. "
Given your oil analysis for Mobil One I am presuming, with a comfort level of 8000 miles, what would be your mileage guess for a good Chevron Supreme conventional oil?
My questions are:
1. Will this prevent, at least minimize, sludge build-up?
2. Do I need a better oil filter (Pure-One, Mobil 1) vice Synthec ?
3. I also put in STP 6000 oil extender ($4.99 at K-Mart), was this
an overkill? with oil change every 3,000 mi or 3 months
whichever comes first.
4. Bought new and only use synthetic oil (Redline/Mobil 1 Tri-syn),
is switching to "dino" a bad move?
Thanks in advance.
(b)"4. Bought new and only use synthetic oil (Redline/Mobil 1 Tri-syn), is switching to "dino" a bad move?"(/b)- I don't know because I don't know why you switched. But as long as you are changing every 3K and are comfortable with a lower level of security incase of an overheating condition-it really doesn't matter.
ruking1: No one really knows because be have no oil analysis.
Sulfated ash has more to do with combustion chamber deposits in engines with poor oil control than it does with sludging of engine internals IMO.
While I personally see the need and utility for diesel, in the context of discussion have specifically talked about unleaded gasoline engines. I am sure you would agree that you would not use diesel fuel and diesel formulated synthetic as well as conventional oils in unleaded gasoline engines.
If price would be no object, what oil would you use?
Please dont tell me "virgin olive oil" : )
I would gladly pay less for synthetic!
loyola--I do not choose to purchase $9.00 per quart, or even $3.00 per quart lubricants for my gasoline engines. I find that petroleum oils at $1.00 or less (after rebates, of course!) per quart that are of recent tech/vintage are very satisfactory.
To each their own! The 15w-40 would void my warranty on one vehicle and on all four of them the manufacturer calls for 5w-30 to 10w-30, not to mention the subsequent loss in gas mileage.
Viscosity is one reason, Use of non synthetic when synthetic that meets GM 4718M standards is called for another. So for many factory fill synthetic vehicles mine among many it would be penny wise, pound foolish to the greatest degree. Many BMW's, Porsches, Corvettes, MB's come factory filled with synthetic and in fact specify it.
But on a way different level, truthfully how many folks own and operate diesel consumer vehicles? I have made the case on another thread that in the USA we need to go from our low % and numbers to % and numbers approaching Europes (33%). As you know diesel can yield up to 68% better gas mileage and take 25% less effort to produce than unleaded gas. The environmentalists in this country deride our unleaded gasoline consumption and glorify Europe and its "conservation efforts" and its "superior" vehicles, but totally ignore that fully 33% of European consumer vehicles are diesel based (with the above better mileage and use of less resources to manufacture. Does highly disingenuous fit here?
In this overall sense, the use of synthetic oil to get ONE mpg better is NOTHING compared to getting 68% better mileage just by a switch to diesel. Using my TLC as an example, I get 15 mpg avg, a 68% increase would put my mileage at 25.2 mpg. Or 10.2 mpg better. Sure after I get this ONE more mile per gal or 11.2 total would be icing on the cake.
"Diesel has never "caught on" in America, and no one can succeed in the market place on a force-feed basis."...
Your above quote almost goes without saying, However what I am specifically referring to is that there is really no choice as a consumer if the gov will not let diesel products in in any numbers or %'s. Not only that, this is total off the shelf technology that doesnt need to be reinvented!!!??? Not to mention the fact that the diesel fuel infrastructure is already there due to interstate, intra state, federal transportation policy????
It is the TLC that is made on a WW basis with a diesel and turbo diesel. At this particular juncture, what is not to like about a full sized SUV that gets 25 mpg?????!!!! SO all that needs to be done is to let it into the country!!!!!! (NOT) Again the point being that this is highly disingenous!
As far as the warranty goes...You can fight the system and tell them that they need to prove damage was caused by your oil. This is a slippery slope though and perhaps you can dig up past receipts for oil. I can dump a shoe box of oil receipts on 'em if that's what they want.
So now the question becomes how much is a qt of Delvac1 syn? And or Delvac conventional?
Most of us have had trouble getting a spec. sheet for the Wal-Mart synthetic, although someone did post specs. for the SJ product on this or the slippery subject thread several months back. Wal-Mart dino. is blended by a PZ/QS subsidiary in Shreveport, also by Warren Oil. It's a group 3 base. I think the specs. of the SJ oil was quite close to the Chevron dino.
Since the SuperTech name is registered to Wal-Mart not PZ/QS, it's possible that it could be blended by someone other than their subsidiary. I requested spec. sheets for all Super Tech products several months ago from the Pennzoil web site and was sent only the SJ rated dino. The specs of that oil was roughly equivilent to Quaker State, but not as good as Pennzoil. Pennzoil has used group 2+ base stocks for several years now and ranks along with Chevron/Texaco as one of the best dino. oils.
No problems or concerns at all! If anything, if you are comfortable go to 15k mile intervals. I do it in TLC's and a Corvette Z06. If I did the math correctly, your 800 miles per week equates to 41,600 per yr app. I would of course get a feel as to how your particular engine and use combination uses oil. For example, the TLC's consume a 1/4 to 1/2 qt per 14k. Since I change at 15k I usually don't add any oil. I personally have and still use the Mobil One 5w-30 Synthetic. The Z06 consumes 1 qt per app 5000 miles. So naturally, I look to add app 3 qts during the 15k mile oil change interval.
Thanks for info - car has 100k extended warranty - have you heard of problems running 10-15K miles with synthetic and getting warranty coverage. I plan to keep car to 200k, hence the choice of oil.
Thanks again.
In both cases, Chevrolet and my local Toyota dealer stated that they would/will enforce the warranty with oil changes of 15k. As a matter of fact when the Toyota's were under warranty the dealership performed the 15k Mobil One oil and filter changes. I have an extended warranty on the Chevrolet, again it will cover the warranty items using a 15k oil change interval. Another practical fact is that engines VERY RARELY have problems once they are properly broken in. It also sounds from your highway miles description that you broken in your vehicle correctly.