Synthetic motor oil

bigorange30

We have discussed many of those additives and people here generally have determined that none of them do any better than straight 100% synthetic. Those based on PAO are best. No one has shown me any evidence that any is better than the Mobil1 that I use.

harry31

Charlie - you state the snake oil your pushing, contains no teflon. That makes it kinda like a Slick 50 minus something. Sort of a Slick 48, eh?

armtdm

You can try this for info. If you wish a dealer other then yourself!

http://www.pecuniary.com/pecuniary.html

As you know, several oils contain moly out of the bottle, Mobil 1 does, as does RedLine and Schaeffers. The additive in Petromoly really isn't needed if you use these oils. As you also know, Amsoil does not use any moly in its formulations, just heavy zinc and calcium and phosphorus

malachy72

I'm just a 3-4k dino guy who likes to read about oils the way an attorney might like to read conflicting testimony.

malachy72

I knew little about Amsiol other than they are a MLM group. I really don't need to know more than that.

glideslopes

I have a new Mazda MPV with a Duratech 3.0 V6. How long should I run Dino until I switch to Mobil One? Also. a lot of engines now seem to ask for 5w-20w? Can I use Mobil one 5w-30w? What's with this 5w-20w stuff?

mark.

bigorange30

at your first oil change (about 3-4 K miles). The 5w30 synthetic Mobil1 is the one I use. It should be good for most new engines.

bretfraz

The best way to describe it is it's emissions oil. The thinness of the oil reduces internal friction which provides better mileage and lower exhaust emissions. Both Ford and Honda are pushing this weight to improve their CAFE and impress those who want automakers to be more environment-sensitive.

Since your engine used either 5W-30 or 10W-30 before this new policy I'd consider using one of those weights. But be advised that this is against your mfr's direction and could result in a voided warranty if you have an in-warranty engine failure and they prove that you did not use the correct oil to maintain your vehicle.

That being said there is no way on God's green earth I would ever use 5W-20 in any car.

kczmudzin

The manual for 2002 MPV says that 5W-30 is OK. That's what I use.

dudleyr

Any thoughts on the wal mart brand (supertech?)full synthetic oil. Who makes it, and is it any good? With Mobil 1 at $5 this stuff is sure tempting at $3. I change every 5,000 miles, and mainly use synthetic for better starting/less wear in the winter (especially when it gets to 30 below or so), extra protection above 100 degrees, and slightly better gas mileage. I don't do the extenced drain thing, although I did 3k intervals with dino oil, so 5k is extended for me.

scottygmc4x4

I have been useing Mobil 1 in my 86 Cav. for 15 years racking up 266,000 miles
untill I T-boned a blond who was putting her make-up on. I swited to M-1 at the first
oil change and changed the oil and filter around every 7 to 9000 miles. I live in
northern Minnesota with temperatures down to -35. I never had any engine troble
(2.5 L.) . Was it the M-1 or just good luck??????. I now have a 2000 Cav, with
the 2.2 L. and you guessed it I useing M-1 again. I just wonder how many miles
I could have racked up on my 86.

jsleesi

I have been following up Synthetic motor oil for a long time, only few times some one mentioned
Castrol synthetic and most of the time no one mention about the other brand.

Why? Are other synthetic motor oil not good or equal as Mobil 1?

Feed back shall be appreciated.

csandste

Is a group 3 oil made by Pennzoil/QuakerState. It is made at a blending plant in Shreveport formerly known as Specialty Petroleum, an independent company purchased by Quaker State before it was bought out by Pennzoil. It does not use Pennzoil base stocks because Pennzoil's refinery capacity is so limited that all production goes to Pennzoil branded product. If I remember correctly the oil uses Mobil/Exxon base stocks. Again, this is group III, not Group IV like Mobil 1.

Someone quite some time ago posted a SuperTech Synthetic data sheet on this board. I requested one from Pennzoil but got only the SuperTech SJ dino sheets. That was last May. I think the synthetic data sheets were several years old. The synthetic sheets were nothing special.

There was a Bobistheoilguy.com oil analysis report on SuperTech synthetic. Unfortunately the poster didn't put SuperTech into his subject heading so that might take a bit of searching. I think the analysis actually looked pretty good. If memory serves me Terry Dyson did the test, but I might be wrong on that.

dudleyr

Thianks for the info. So It is not as good as Mobil 1, but maybe comperable to some of the lesser name brand synthetics! It would still be better than Castrol wouldn't it? Isn't Castrol the one that is not really snythetic?

csandste

the court case declaring it to be a true synthetic. In reality, most group III oils whether SuperTech or Castrol are probably about the same. I'm not sure whether any of them are that much better than the better group II and II+ oils like Chevron or Pennzoil. In fact the SuperTech specs. looked quite a bit like the Chevron dino. As far as I know the Chevron based (not Equalon) Havoline is the same as the Chevron. That's why I'm sticking with (SuperTech) dino. IMHO a car is a complex set of systems and there's little advantage to having the engine last 300K if the rest of the car's crap at 250. Of course if you're a fan of extended oil changes, maybe, it can pay for itself.

If you're ready to move up the food chain into a more specialized lubricant related board try:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi

bluedevils

My local Target is doing a 'Price Cut' on Mobil 1. Marked down to $3.39/qt. They seem to do this every once in a while. I presume it's because they sell very little Mobil 1. Not sure why they even stock it there.

rubicon52

Junkman2 and others have asked about the use of synthetic lubricants in their Toyotas. Thought I'd pass along my experience. After 60K miles on my V-6 Camry, I switched to Mobil 1. Didn't notice any difference in performance, but after a year, the engine was much quieter. Much of the top end noise (I guess from the 4 cam valve train) was gone. I was impressed.

Then switched to Mobil 1 ATF in my automatic Camry and Mobil synthetic gear oil in my Tacoma manual transmission. The automatic Camry started shifting noticably smoother. Would now say that my 95 Camry w/ 73k miles and Mobil 1 ATF shifts slightly smoother than my 01 Solara w/ 12k miles and the factory ATF (both cars have the same drive train). On my Tacoma, the manual transmission became much easier to shift when I switched to Mobil 1 synthetic gear oil.

I'm pretty much sold on synthetic lubricants (have 50 quarts of Mobil 1 stockpiled that I bought cheap at Cosco).

malachy72

Any late news on the Chevron Supreme oil analysis?

armtdm

I have used synthetic oil in my 92 V6 since 1000 miles and the ATF since 25,000 miles. (change -drain and fill every 30,000) Currently at 148,000 and change oil and filter at 7500 regardless of time between changes.

IMHO the only way to go but each person must do what makes them feel right.

tntitan

I am sending Chevron Supreme SL 10W-30 with 5,033 miles in for an oil anlsysis today. I will post my results when received.

ywilson

Considering myself somewhat a "motorhead" I have been using synth oils for years. I used to own a 89 SAAB 9000T. I used synthetic in that car since I can remember. It had 285,000+ miles on it before the head gasket blew. It had the original turbo on it and ran like a swiss watch. I also had a 90 SAAB 900 sedan. I had 198,000+ on that before I traded it in for my truck. The engines on synth were great. The reason for getting rid of them was the rest of the car was shot to h***. I have been using synth oil (Amsoil, Mobil1) 10w and 5w-30 in my Durango since 500 miles. I have the newer 4.7 liter motor. I have had no problems with it. My truck is now at 75,000+ miles in 2.5 years. Yes, I do alot of driving. Mostly highway. It runs like it is new. I change the oil at 5000 mile intervals and use Amsoil oil filters. I use the oversized one for the increase in filtering capacity. I stick to a 5000 interval due to warranty issues. I will be adding the Amsoil dual bypass when the warranty runs out and switch to a 10,000 mile change interval. I have been using the Mobil1 for the past year due to price and it is much easier to get. I am totally behind the use of synthetics. Not just oil, but gear lubes and tranny lubes as well. I am impressed and convinced that synth's are suprior to any dino and that I am using less oil from overseas. That is a good enough reason in my book. I know my vehicles will probably last longer than I want them to. But, I know they will last.

rocky5656

Could someone explain briefly what this means, and how a 5w20 oil could help to reduce exhaust emmisions? My thinking would indicate a thinner oil would be able to make it past the rings easier, and creat more blowby/emmisions.

Thank you.

malachy72

on Bob's board "Outlaw". I just haven't seen bottgers post in a while and had been surprised he would lay out bucks for an analysis.

mike1qaz

I'll also be interested in tntitans results.

I lurk at Bob's also, now those guys are really serious about their oil.

tntitan, did you ever get around to your transmission???

tntitan

Once I got that bolt off (dealer told me it would be on really really tight the first time) it was easier than changing oil. A lot easier as a matter of fact. So far changing the transmission fluid and power steering fluid was well worth the effort. I had the brake fluid done by the dealer - I just thought it would be too messy for me.

Just waiting for the oil analysis. I am going on vacation next Saturday and hope they get here before then.

mike1qaz

I think the transmission fluid change forum died from lack of use. Glad to hear all went well.

aurora5000

What's the story on Royal Purple Syn? Found I could buy it locally... I use Mobil 1 Syn now.

Thanks

smily1

Anyone find out if Mobil-1 supersyn is better than the older Mobil 1 trisynthetic?

ywilson

Has anyone out there with a Chryco tranny used or have used the Amsoil or Mobil1 synthetic tranny fluid? I would like to get a comparison of the fluids. I have now 76,000+ miles and I would like to put on of these synths in for the longevity and superior protection it gives.

vadp

Q.If your street products are not 100% synthetic, why are they priced similar to a full synthetic?

A.The Synerlec technology provides the best protection and performance increases available, however, it is very expensive. We have blended our street oils to exceed the performance characteristics of any other blended or "Full" synthetic. If having a full synthetic is important, we have our racing line which can be considered a "Full" synthetic.

http://www.synerlec.com/faq.html

armtdm

The problem wiht many racing oils is that they do not have the same additive package as street oils, less detergents and ani wear additives like zinc and phosphorus. That is because racing oil is changed out very frequently, many times after each race so they don't need those additives. Check the additives between racing and street before you go with any racing oil

denver8

Where do you send your oil for analysis?

paulek

I have an '02 Highlander V-6 DOHC with 7000 miles. I drive about 8000 miles a year mostly local traffic and many short trips of 3 miles or less. Should I, (1) convert to full synthetic and change oil at 6 months or 4000 miles or, (2) convert to a synthetic blend, eg "QS syn .blend for high output engines" and change at 4000 miles or every 6 months, or (3) stay with conventional oil and change every 4 months or every 2700 miles. Option (1) costs twice as much as option (2) and option (2) costs twice as much as option(3).
Your input is welcomed.

bigorange30

Change to synthetic and change the oil once/year. Mobil1 can easily go 7-8 M miles. Blends are of no use. You might as well use a dino if your using a blend. The synthetic will pay for itself. It did for me in gas mileage and longer drain intervals without oil degradation.

mike1qaz

With that kind of driving pattern I would definitely use a full synth (mobil1,amsoil,redline). What time/mileage to change would best be determined by having your oil analyzed, but I would think 4k/6month would be easily done by most good "true synthetics" with good additive packages, and you possibly could extend much longer.

Forget about using synth blends, they have very little synth in the blend.

Is this the same v6 engine Toyota was having the sludge problem with in other models?

fleetwoodsimca

If that is a sludge prone engine, you would be very well advised to go short on miles between oil changes. I had a small Toyota engine in a car I traded off just last month. I ran quality petroleum based oil in it, and changed the oil and filter every 3000 miles like clock work. I had zero problems, and no desire to push my luck!

armtdm

With very short trips I would go with a dino and change every 3000 or 3 months. I have one that
I change once a year and only 8000 miles but it does go on long trips and heats up more often then yours does. With so many short trips the dino at 3 months is more economical and better protection. You will probably have high fuel dilution in the oil

dudleyr

I would use synthetic for very short trips, because it has better cold flow, and your car will hardly ever be warm with lots of short trips. Synthetic also is much less likely to sludge.

Synthetic twice a year. Even if you pay $40 for a change that is still less than $100 a year. Not much to protect an expensive investment.

chispas

Many years ago I was using Mobil 1 in a 1976 Maverick. The front seal (around the harmonic
balance pulley) began to leak badly.

When I tore down the engine, I found the seal had "hardened" and was no longer flexible.

I was also using Amsoil. This was for a 1969 Mercury Montego, and I'd never had anything
like a seal problem. So, I switched the Maverick to Amsoil.

When I mentioned what I'd done to my Amsoil dealer, he had this explanation (whether right
or wrong, but it made "sense"): He described that mineral oil (Mobil 1's base is a petroleum
product) tends to harden gaskets and seals. He went on to say that Amsoil's base is "ester".
Ester, he said, was from the "alcohol" family. And, if you dropped a rubber band into
a jar of alcohol, it would soften the rubber band.

He must have a "point". I've never had another seal or gasket problem as long as I use
Amsoil.

acelink

I have been using 10W-30 Pennzoil synthetic which is available for $7.20 a quart in Korea. I doubt most of you ever heard of SK corporation in Korea, but this company sells 5W-40 synthetic oil which I can get for $3.20 for a liter (1.056 quart).

Price is too tempting to ignore. Is it as good as pennzoil? It says that it exceeds all major car brand requirements of API SL, ACEA A3/B3/B4, BENZ, VW 502, 505. SK touts this product as an European style oil (does this make any sense to you?). Btw, factory recommendation for the car is 10W-30. Wonder how 5W-40 shall affect the car. The company website is www.skzic.com but it doesn't have the product translated in English yet.

dudleyr

Go for the cheaper oil, you can change it twice as often and still be ahead! If it really does meet the European requirements it should be fine.

bigorange30

You must not be taking into account gas mileage or engine replacements.

paulek

This 3.0 V6 DOHC, is the same basic engine that has sludged up in previous toyota cars mainly Sienna"s. However Toyota has NOT decreased their drain intervals, still 7500miles, dealerships recomend 3000 miles. To keep in warranty I would have to change at least twice a year. Now which full synthetic? I have only seen 3 in my area, Quaker state and Mobil-1 supersyn and Mobil-1 trisynthetic. Which one would give the best protection agaist sludge?

fleetwoodsimca

My opinion is that there is one polyol ester synthetic that would do the job for you, and better than any other variety of synthetic. Go here, and take a free look:

http://www.redlineoil.com/

bretfraz

I assume you mean this company:

http://eng.skcorp.com/

That SK synth sounds just fine. Without comparing spec sheets I'd say the SK is every bit as good as the Pennzoil you are using. The fact that it's ACEA A3/B4 and API SL shows that its a top quality oil.

I'll bet ya the reason the Pennz is so $$ has to do with some kind of tax than anything else. Since Pennz's synth ain't no great product I'd switch to SK immediately.

mike1qaz

Mobil 1 is a true synth oil (group 4) most other readily available synth oil on the selves at retail locations are highly refined dino oil (group3).

Redline and Amsoil are true synth also, but are not stocked at retail stores. You must find a dealer or order over the net. They are more expensive also.

csandste

Pennzoil dino. is group II+ and IMHO the best of the dinos. Their syn. recently was downgraded from group IV to group III and is nothing special.

acelink

Btw, I use Mobil filter (M1-104) which is available for $11.20 in Korea. Is this a fair price?

After switching from Pennzoil 10W-30 to 5W-40 of SK ZIC XQ, the car seems have better low-end acceleration than before (temperature is around 32 these days). I plan to go at least 6,250 miles on it before my next oil change.

malachy72

http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi

fleetwoodsimca

I feel that Havoline and its parent company have the best petroleum oil on the market at the present, and I'll still continue voting for Redline as the best synthetic engine oil. Neither of my choices negates the fact that MANY companies put out engine lubricants that are far superior to any demand most of us will put on them.