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Synthetic motor oil

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Comments

  • jinsong_liujinsong_liu Member Posts: 8
    Havoline are distributed by two company now. do you mean the one distributed by ChevronTaxco?
  • bigorange30bigorange30 Member Posts: 1,091
    I also pay $11 for the mobil1 oil filter. Its amazing that its the same price in Korea that it is in the U.S. The economies must be close to equivalent.
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    I am currently buying ChevronTexaco, distributed by Global.
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    Just a supposition, but with the closing of a lot of refinery capacity with the buyout of Pz/QS by Shell, yesterday's Havoline Equilon) may become tomorrow's SuperTech.
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    Why would they close? Such an action would sound like racketeering and organized crime to me.
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    Over capacity. I think the Shreveport blending plant was one of their older facilities. However, I don't think I've seen a post from Johnny over on Bob's board for quite some time. He was always very knowledgable about PZ/QS and was a big supporter of the merger. Maybe someone shut him up.

    I did post a web page detailing refining capacity by manufacturer over on Bob's site. I'll try to find it and re-post here.
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    My posts seem to be disappearing for a period after I make them and then becoming visible again. My apologies for the second post on the PZ/QS Shell merger if that suddenly appears. (That is if this post appears.)
  • americanflagamericanflag Member Posts: 400
    If this has already been covered, I apologize, I am only about 1/3 through the posts on this thread, wow. Anyway, in the Tires Plus Store where I usually go, they have a great display for Lucas Oil Stabilizer. It shows two sets of plastic gears, each is turned with an identical crank. The one treated with 1/5 part Lucas Stablizer turns easier and smoother. It was suggested to me that using this in conjunction with conventional oil might be an alternative to synthetic. But I have also heard it is best used on older cars that have engine problems. Does anyone know about this?
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    Mostly bright stock if I remember correctly. I think Bobistheoilguy ran this stuff on his Timken machine and wasn't overly impressed. Worse than straight STP for wear.


    http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/oilshear.htm


    There are also a couple of Lucas threads on his forum.

  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    Additives of any kind are to be used only when you have a specific problem and the alternative is an expensive repair and yoy have nothing to lose. If the engine is operating fine stay away from addtives. For the most part they are SNAKE OIL
  • americanflagamericanflag Member Posts: 400
    fuel system cleaner, engine cleaner, oil treatment? I have seen even the dealers offer these, they supposedly clean and coat the engine. Thanks for the warning on the unnecessary additives, I will stay away!
  • americanflagamericanflag Member Posts: 400
    being a newbie, I still am confused a bit after reading through the web site. Specifically, it sounds like he favors conventional oils over synthetics, am I understanding this correctly?
  • bigorange30bigorange30 Member Posts: 1,091
    doesn't mean it works. I have seen many different dealers offer different kinds of snake oil. I was in one dealer where they advertised Zmax. I came home and looked it up on the internet and found that The FTC was charging them with false advertising. Slick 50 has also been charged as you can see on this website:


    http://www.fernblatt.com/longhurst/additives.html


    Therefore, be careful, dealers don't have all the answers either. Remember, they are paid by the supplier to let them display their stuff in the dealership.

  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    Is a Schaeffers dealer. Most Schaeffers is a blend, but it's percentage of PAO is quite a bit higher than most store brand blends. For the most part most blends contain no more than 10% synthetics. Read his forum for in-depth information.

    Frankly I'm not sure how useful his Timken machine tests are. They are interesting however.
  • joatmonjoatmon Member Posts: 315
    I think Bob is also saying the the additive package, specifically, the total additive package and how it works is very important and is often overlooked. How do you know what works? Well, oil analysis.

    I don't think Bob is anti-synthetic. It's just that a good dino or blend with a good additive package may do as well as a full synthetic at a lower cost. Also, being a full synthetic doesn't guarantee that it a good oil for extended drain.

    Jack
  • tntitantntitan Member Posts: 306
    I posted the results of my analysis (for several of you that were inquiring) on the dino oil thread and at Bob's site. Wear results were great but the TBN indicated it was pretty much maxed out at 5K.

    Denver8 - I sent it to Blackstone Labs but next time I am going to use Dyson from over at Bob's site. Cheaper, more comprehensive analysis.

    I decided to order some Schaeffers Supreme 7000 5W-30 after seeing some analysis at Bob's site and determining that the Chevron should only go about 4K. My plan it to try 7,500, do an analysis, go 10,000, and do another analysis, and then decide what to do with the rest of my life.
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    After seeing your analysis for your Chevron "experiment," I am convinced that the ever enlarging holdings I am developing in ChevronTexaco products is something to smile about! (:o]
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #4518

    Buy both ChevronTexaco and ExxonMobil and you will have both sides covered!! :)
  • smily1smily1 Member Posts: 104
    Did anyone find out if the new supersyn is better than the tri-syn?
  • mike1qazmike1qaz Member Posts: 93
    http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=forum;f=3
  • smily1smily1 Member Posts: 104
    Thanks for the link but I did not find a direct comparison between the two.
  • jinsong_liujinsong_liu Member Posts: 8
    I remember there is a online store sale readline oil but do not remember teh url. anyone where I can get redline oil online?
  • pulgopulgo Member Posts: 400
    Try:


    http://www.redlineoil.com/dealers.htm

  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    Haven't posted for a while. Thought I would stop in.


    Justy a couple of possible opinions here:

    (b)smily1:(/b) I think based on discussions on Bobs board the SS is better. It does have Moly where the TriSyn does not have. I did a comparison between the two here (Ignore the spelling): http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=000192


    Regarding Post # 4490: I think you have bad information here. Both Mobil 1 and Amsoil are PAO based with an Ester to equalize seal growth. I have used both and had zero problems with either. Sometimes mechanics don't know what they are talking about.


    Later,

    Al

  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    Haven't posted for a while. Thought I would stop in.


    Justy a couple of possible opinions here:

    smily1: I think based on discussions on Bobs board the SS is better. It does have Moly where the TriSyn does not have. I did a comparison between the two here (Ignore the spelling): http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=000192


    Regarding Post # 4490: I think you have bad information here. Both Mobil 1 and Amsoil are PAO based with an Ester to equalize seal growth. I have used both and had zero problems with either. Sometimes mechanics don't know what they are talking about.


    Later,

    Al

  • kansankansan Member Posts: 115
    I have an engine with some oil leaks, and the NAPA guy recommended Lucas Oil Stabilizer to help slow down or stop the leaks. Does anyone have any experiance or knowledge of this product?
    Thanks,
    Ken
  • harry31harry31 Member Posts: 128
    kansan:

      See this link for some Lucas Stabilizer info:

    http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=000594#000000
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    Anybody out there remember Pennzoil Performax synthetic? While rummaging through a box off the top shelf in the garage, I came across an old UPC code I had cut out of a Performax 5W-50 box. I must have thought a rebate was in the offing!
  • rubicon52rubicon52 Member Posts: 191
    This is in response to the post a while back about whether to use synthetic oil on a Toyota V-6 engine that travels short distances. I have a 95 Camry with this engine that is now used only for short distance driving. I changed from dino to synthetic at 60k miles. I change the oil 3 times a year regardless of miles. Since I changed to synthetic the engine has gradually gotten quieter and now sounds the same as the V-6 egine in my 01 Solara which has only 13k highway miles on it. This has made me a big believer in synthetic oil regardless of how a car is used.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #4530

    I totally agree with your use of synthetic under high stress, low speed, low time, low mileage driving. The only real issue that folks have is the higher cost that comes along with slightly lower oil change intervals. For certain the synthetic protects better!
  • pastormpastorm Member Posts: 2
    Friends:

    I've purchased a 99 Ford E-150 conversion van (V8). It has just passed the 25,000 mile mark and had an oil (dino) change before my purchase. The records indicate very regular dino changes at 3,000-3,200 miles. I plan to drive this van around town in typical conditions with occasional longer trips (4 hours one way). Every summer will include a 3-week vacation pulling a 5,200lb travel trailer for 2,500 miles. I've been reading the posts because I'm considering switching to synthetic oil the next go around. Is 28,000 miles too late to switch? I welcome any advice! Thanks.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #4532

    In a word NO! But I would not switch to synthetic oil and keep the app 3k oil change interval. I personally keep a 15k interval but realize that MOST folks do a much more frequent one.
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    If you decide to go to syn I would suggest a true synthetic like Mobil 1, Amsoil or RedLine. Certainly it is not too late to switch. I would not change every 3K miles as ruking1 indicated. Nor would I go beyond 8K without an oil analysis. I know others have seen very good analysis results with 10K and better with Mobil 1. My experience tells me that 10K pushes Mobil 1. The 10W-30 is probably a better choice than the 5W unless you are dealing with less than zero F on a regular basis. If you are pulling heavy stuff in summer-you might want to throw 25% 15W-50 Mobil 1 with the 10W-30. Or you could go with the 0W40 Mobil 1 or the Delvac 1 5W-40 which may be the best oil on the planet.
  • chas_in_okcchas_in_okc Member Posts: 21
    I don't see much posted on these synthetic blend oils. Wondering what percentage of the oil is synthetic. Anyone know? Might be a good thing if 25 percent or higher if you want to keep to the 3000 to 5000 mile oil change.
    Dino oil is about $1.75 per qt. synthetic blend about $2.50 per qt. full synthetic is around $4.50 per qt.
    5qts of dino oil = $08.75
    5qts of synthetic blend = $12.50 ? percent synthetic
    4qts dino and 1qt synthetic = $11.50 20 percent synthetic.

    just a thought.
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    Besides all the blends use a Group III (not a "real" synthetic). So your only real alternative is Mobil 1 added to Mobil oil. Personally I see no benefits here. You really can't extend drain intervals, it won/t really lubricate any better and it may have a conflict with additives. I would say either go the full syn route or just use dino and change more frequently. The new SJ oils are pretty decent.
  • bigorange30bigorange30 Member Posts: 1,091
    Why would you want to use a blend anyway? The dino in that blend will still need to be changed every 3 k. A real synthetic saves you real time and money. I save $72 every 7 k mile oil change with Mobil1 full synthetic. That comes from less changes and 11% better gas mileage.
  • tntitantntitan Member Posts: 306
    I just received my Schaeffers 5W-30 blended synthethic yesterday. After reviewing several oil analysis at Bob's site I decided this oil suited me best. I plan to start with 7,500 interval and go to 10,000 if the analysis warrants the extended interval.
  • joatmonjoatmon Member Posts: 315
    Most synthetic blends are ~ 10%, except for Schaeffers, with is 17-23% PAO (Group IV). Scheaffers blend seems to give extended drain capabilities in line with Mobil 1. I used Mobil 1 and drained at 8k and I'm doing the same with Schaeffers blend. I believe that the additive package is a key.

    Jack
  • mike1qazmike1qaz Member Posts: 93
    Walmart prices would lower your formula.

    Chevron Supreme $1.08/qt (very good dino)
    Mobil 1 SS $17.88/5qtjug (very good synth)
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    A good point was made by mike1qaz in #4540. If you have the time and inclination, you can dig through the oil topics in "Maintenance and Repair" and get considerable information on the topic of petroleum based oils versus synthetic. We are fortunate that the Chevron side of the new ChevronTexaco company has developed a quite refined and improved way to shorten long chain mineral oil molecules to the same end product molecules that synthetic procedures produce. I oversimplify and cut short the topic, and simply suggest that the new SL rated petroleum/mineral products are very near the same end result as most synthetics. Checker/Schucks/Kragen stores often have it at sale prices. Now, this does not include polyol ester and other ester based synthetics.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    Valvoline and Quaker State, according to their technical support have 20% PAO.

    Personally, I've found that a 50% conv/syn mix works very well for 2 of my vehicles.
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    Appears to be top notch stuff. Oh I meant to say "SL" not "SJ" Oil above.
  • chas_in_okcchas_in_okc Member Posts: 21
    Seems the blends are no bargin with such a low ammout of "the good stuff". Will read up on the Chevron oils.
    Flushing out dirt and metal is why I wish to keep to 3000 to 5000 mile changes. My new car has a turbocharger is why I am looking into syn oils. Turbos can add more heat to a engine.

    2003 chrysler PT Crusier GT
  • wainwain Member Posts: 479
    say do not extend the oil change interval
    on their usa web site - faq section??
  • bigorange30bigorange30 Member Posts: 1,091
    they have had. It has been a big stink for them and they don't want to take any chances. I think it is overkill and would be willing to take the chance with synthetic if I owned a Toyota. I would probably use about a 5 K drain interval though instead of the 7 K interval I use on my Infiniti QX4.
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    With turbocharged engines, I'd look for the turbo "certified" info on the label. We had a Chrysler LeBaron turbo in the family, and made sure the oil we put in it was the right stuff.
  • chas_in_okcchas_in_okc Member Posts: 21
    the first oil change. This will give me time to read up more on the synthetic and blended oils.
    Will give Chrysler the honor of doing the first change since they are known for putting filters on to tight at the factory.
  • miamihawkmiamihawk Member Posts: 6
    I've been using mobile 1 in my new car since the 1000 mile mark. I have 10,000 on it now and have 4 quarts of castrol synthetic. Can I use this castrol for 1 change ? I plan on changing this oil at about 3000 miles and go back to the mobile 1 which I change around 4500-5000 mile mark. Normally, I like to stick with the same synthetic, but I have these quarts I would like to use up. Any harm ? By the way, I have an 02 Forester.
  • mike1qazmike1qaz Member Posts: 93
    In fact, Syntec is a pseudo synth, so 3K should be relatively light use for this oil in your application.
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    I am curious: Isn't Citgo a local brew in Oklahoma? I use a lot of Citgo gas up here in Colorado, but can't get the super prices on Citgo oil that I get on most major brands.
    If you should choose to get into the really heavy duty synthetic lubrication products, check out the ester based products, such as Redline. It is quite expensive, but outstanding. I prefer the top quality SL oils now on the mineral based market, making this choice on the old "bang for the buck" theory.
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