A while back I asked for some feedback on these, and got some good comments from a few other members. I remember Doug and Mike were particularly helpful, sorry if I forgot anyone else.
They were quite easy to install. As my car didn't have the switch and relay, I had to get those as well. Since Subaru wanted about $80 for the two (!), I posted a WTB on nasioc and got both shipped to me for $30 from someone who had taken out his fogs for a front intercooler.
The Hellas were about $70 for the kit, and now I have much extra wire and a switch and relay since I used the Subaru ones and my car was wired (but not switched or relayed) for fogs already.
I like these lights. They look good and seem like they'll work really well too, although the car has yet to leave suburbia in the two days since they've been put in. I'm looking forward to trying them out in inclement weather and on backroads.
For less than what we would've paid for OEM fog lights at the dealer (over $300 IIRC), we've added: Hella 500's (better than OEM) $110 Infinity speakers (much better than OEM) $70 Upgraded horns (better than OEM) $20 Interior cargo light (very handy) $20 Rubber floor mats (great for mud and dirt) $45
Thanks again for the helpful info when I asked about these.
Thanks, I think they look better every time I see them.
Juice: They do seem brighter, but maybe it's just the pattern. The pattern is very wide but not tall, if that makes sense. It's like a wide strip of light, whereas the low beam headlight pattern is a bit narrower and taller or "deeper".
Low beams are like this: ==== Hellas are like this: -----------------------
The fogs by themselves (not possible with current wiring, but that can be changed) would only be for low speed travel, obviously, 'cause you'd outrun them pretty easily. They're definitely fogs, not driving lights. The low beam and fog wattage is the same (55W) but where the fog pattern hits *is* quite bright.
My OB w/ the stock fogs has feelings of fog light inadequacy now!
utahsteve
edit: My ASCII "fog lamp pattern" is pretty lame, LOL. Sorry. At some point in the future I want to do an actual photograph to compare, but that will take some time and a suitable locale.
Took your suggestion and ordered Rota Sub Zero today in 16x7 with a +45 offset, tried one on the car and fits fine, store had a set for a guy with a WRX, it will take about 3 weeks to get them if they are at the warehouse.
They were not cheap $330 each CDN but he gave to me at $275 CDN still no bargain.
The more I looked at the FRD EVO I was going to get the more they looked like WRX rims and I hate those, I am going to have this car a long time so I may as well get what I like.
They are also pretty light at 14.5 LBs. each.
I also tried 17" on the car while I liked the improvement in roadholding I was less than enamoured of the increase in noise and discomfort level.
One of the things I like about this car is the smoothness and for the amount of really spirited driving I get to do these days with my wife mostly in the car telling me to slow down:-)
It Holds the road well enough on the 55 series tires.
The noise may have been attributed to the tires as well, they were Dunlop SP 215x45x17, the jarring, well where the 55 series tires will roll over expansion joints and minor pot holes with no noise or thumping.
I got the impression with the 45 series 17" if you ran over a dime you could tell if it was heads or tails, expansion joints were just thump, thump, thump,
You gotta remember the smaller the sidewall of the tire the stiffer it is going to be, so less give = more noise thats the trade off for better handling, I guess what it comes down to in my state of decay I am not prepared to make that trade off:-)
Well finally settled on a set of Summer/Track tires.
Picking up a set of Kumho Ecsta V700s that have about 10-15 auto-x runs on them and were heat cycled from tirerack. 225-50-16 size. Price $225 for 4 So I can't really complain about the price since they are $143/each tires when new.
These will last me til I get the Impreza L going well enough for the track.
Well lets see, Zephyr and I did some work over the weekend on a few cars. Hypov was an excellent help through it all as well running to get us lunch as well as some extra sockets later in the day!
First order was to put a Perrin Uppipe in an '04 WRX Sedan with 1100 miles on the ticker. Talk about starting early! We also put an Apexi cat-back Melon-Launcher exhaust on for him and an HKS super-loud BOV. It's very nice to install stuff when it's new We also refined our Up-pipe install using a bottle jack to lift the engine rather than a floor jack. Made it quicker.
Later in the day we ran out to Long Island and had to swap a stock RS suspension over to an OBS. The OBS had STi V5 struts and Whiteline springs. The guy who was getting the V5 struts was putting P1 Springs on there as well so I bought the Whiteline Springs for the Project Impreza L that I will be embarking on. Also picked up a whiteline adjustable strut tower bar as well.
The problem we had was that the guy who's RS we were working on must have had a shop put on his rims with a 200lb torque gun. His Key for the wheel locks was stripped. So we had to send Hypov to pickup 4 19mm 12-point sockets. Once we had them it took 3 taps with the hammer to bang them on over the wheel lock and take off the wheel locks. Lots of good they do eah?
Uppipe is a PITA, but not technically difficult. Now that Zephyr and I have done a few, we can usually finish it in about 2-2.5hrs in good conditions. Certain aftermarket uppipes are easier to install than others and new gaskets are required. You also need to jack the engine to get it out.
We can always do your springs at your place or even at summit point in the hotel parking lot We are mobile
Ken, if I'm out in your area, by all means I'll help yah out
It's been pretty good, been doing it about a year. Mostly started as a help to people then we started getting tons of requests so kinda made it into a little biz so that we could finance our track days and auto-x. It doesn't even cover all the fees for doing auto-x and HPDE but helps and we love helping people on their cars. People like to have us do the work cause they can watch and don't have to leave their car during work hrs to get it done (when they usually need the car for work or what not).
Got to see them in action weekend before last when I got my tint installed. These guys could work blindfolded, easily. :-)
My wife and I both went with 50% on the fronts (driver/pass.) and 35 on the rest. AZP has a top notch guy doing tint. One of these days, I'll take and post pics.
Well we had to exhaust done on the SVX yesterday. It is quite free flowing but didn't loose too much low-end. The problem is that it's unreal in terms of how loud it is from 2700->4500 RPMs. Currently we have 2" pipes from the collectors on either side back to a Y pipe with 2.5" out to a High Flow Magnaflow Cat, then 2.5" back to a magnaflow Camaro/Firebird Muffler and 2.5" out the back with stock-looking tips. We are gonna probably stick in 2 4" resonators in the 2" sections right after the collectors to try to shift the sould about 2000 rpms up the band.
The sound from 0->2700 is a very very nice deep V8 sounding tone.
do you work on 1994 Legacy turbos? ....... in Houston? I heard a guy claim he got 100 hp out of stand-alone engine management "only". Not sure I believe that. Seems you'd have to free up the exhaust and turn up the boost a little. But anyway, I'd be curious to pick your brain sometime about parts you have learned will/won't work with my car. It's still bone stock, and I have told myself I don't really want to modify it, but sometimes a little tinkering has an appeal.
Well Adam of AZP has a '9something Legacy Turbo that he picked up as a beater. I'll ask him what he has come across in his research. I believe an IC will be helpful. I'll check on other stuff for yah.
Has anyone installed a class 2 "Hidden Hitch" to their 2002 Outback Wagon?? I am about to embark onto this venture and am looking for tips.
Also, am attempting to install a transmission cooler for the auto trans. Any tips or advice? Should I bypass the tranny cooler already in the rad or incorporate it with the external cooler??
I have the OE hitch on my Forester. I forget who the manufacturer is, but IIRC it's different than the Hidden Hitch.
The only trick on the Forester was you had to remove one bolt holding the fuel vacuum canister in place. Be careful, if you have to do the same, to reconnect the hoses. If there is a leak it will trigger a CEL and may even shut off the engine.
Put the AT cooler in series with the stock one. If you don't this winter you'll wind up having the tranny stay in lower gears and not lockup the torque converter til the atf temp is high enough. Basically the internal cooler also acts as a heater for the fluid in the winter, so bypassing it on a year round basis isn't a great idea.
Mike is correct - in series with the radiator based cooler. I once converted a manual to an automatic (Ford F-150), and couldn't keep the tranny fluid temp stable until I bought a new radiator spec'ed for an automatic equipped truck (the original did not have an internal cooler).
Also, remember that although the hitch components for class II are rated at 3500lbs, the OB is limited to 2000....
I can understand using a Class II hitch, if only to get the more universal 2" receiver. The Class I comes with a 1.25" receiver, and fewer things fit into it.
factory Class II receivers are 1.25," not 2." At least the one's I've seen on Ford Escapes/Explorers and Tributes. The Explorer factory Class III receiver is 2."
Comments
Every car has its potential problems, at least we already know what ours could be!
-juice
I've got my auxiliary lights mounted and harness set.
Just need to close the circuit, and I'm using the OEM switch [bought separately].
TIA
-Dave
The auxiliary light mod with OEM switch is on the WRX
-Dave
Jim
The wirings should be the same, since the switch is used on both the OB and WRX.
-Dave
Just what I need to identify the wires.
-Dave
http://users.sisna.com/ignatius/subaru/mods/fog_off1.jpg
http://users.sisna.com/ignatius/subaru/mods/fog_on1.jpg
They were quite easy to install. As my car didn't have the switch and relay, I had to get those as well. Since Subaru wanted about $80 for the two (!), I posted a WTB on nasioc and got both shipped to me for $30 from someone who had taken out his fogs for a front intercooler.
The Hellas were about $70 for the kit, and now I have much extra wire and a switch and relay since I used the Subaru ones and my car was wired (but not switched or relayed) for fogs already.
I like these lights. They look good and seem like they'll work really well too, although the car has yet to leave suburbia in the two days since they've been put in. I'm looking forward to trying them out in inclement weather and on backroads.
For less than what we would've paid for OEM fog lights at the dealer (over $300 IIRC), we've added:
Hella 500's (better than OEM) $110
Infinity speakers (much better than OEM) $70
Upgraded horns (better than OEM) $20
Interior cargo light (very handy) $20
Rubber floor mats (great for mud and dirt) $45
Thanks again for the helpful info when I asked about these.
utahsteve
-mike
-juice
Juice: They do seem brighter, but maybe it's just the pattern. The pattern is very wide but not tall, if that makes sense. It's like a wide strip of light, whereas the low beam headlight pattern is a bit narrower and taller or "deeper".
Low beams are like this: ====
Hellas are like this: -----------------------
The fogs by themselves (not possible with current wiring, but that can be changed) would only be for low speed travel, obviously, 'cause you'd outrun them pretty easily. They're definitely fogs, not driving lights. The low beam and fog wattage is the same (55W) but where the fog pattern hits *is* quite bright.
My OB w/ the stock fogs has feelings of fog light inadequacy now!
utahsteve
edit: My ASCII "fog lamp pattern" is pretty lame, LOL. Sorry. At some point in the future I want to do an actual photograph to compare, but that will take some time and a suitable locale.
-juice
They were not cheap $330 each CDN but he gave to me at $275 CDN still no bargain.
The more I looked at the FRD EVO I was going to get the more they looked like WRX rims and I hate those, I am going to have this car a long time so I may as well get what I like.
They are also pretty light at 14.5 LBs. each.
I also tried 17" on the car while I liked the improvement in roadholding I was less than enamoured of the increase in noise and discomfort level.
One of the things I like about this car is the smoothness and for the amount of really spirited driving I get to do these days with my wife mostly in the car telling me to slow down:-)
It Holds the road well enough on the 55 series tires.
Cheers Pat.
although your car is superbly cared for so it's not as if the money is wasted.
-Colin
Cheers Pat.
How much louder and jarring were the 17" wheels? Could you describe the difference a little more?
I'd love to see pics of your new Rotas when you get them.
Ken
Gotta wait 3 weeks for pics? Bummer.
-juice
I got the impression with the 45 series 17" if you ran over a dime you could tell if it was heads or tails, expansion joints were just thump, thump, thump,
You gotta remember the smaller the sidewall of the tire the stiffer it is going to be, so less give = more noise thats the trade off for better handling, I guess what it comes down to in my state of decay I am not prepared to make that trade off:-)
Cheers Pat.
Picking up a set of Kumho Ecsta V700s that have about 10-15 auto-x runs on them and were heat cycled from tirerack. 225-50-16 size. Price $225 for 4
These will last me til I get the Impreza L going well enough for the track.
-mike
First order was to put a Perrin Uppipe in an '04 WRX Sedan with 1100 miles on the ticker. Talk about starting early! We also put an Apexi cat-back Melon-Launcher exhaust on for him and an HKS super-loud BOV. It's very nice to install stuff when it's new
Later in the day we ran out to Long Island and had to swap a stock RS suspension over to an OBS. The OBS had STi V5 struts and Whiteline springs. The guy who was getting the V5 struts was putting P1 Springs on there as well so I bought the Whiteline Springs for the Project Impreza L that I will be embarking on. Also picked up a whiteline adjustable strut tower bar as well.
The problem we had was that the guy who's RS we were working on must have had a shop put on his rims with a 200lb torque gun. His Key for the wheel locks was stripped. So we had to send Hypov to pickup 4 19mm 12-point sockets. Once we had them it took 3 taps with the hammer to bang them on over the wheel lock and take off the wheel locks. Lots of good they do eah?
-mike
Scary 'bout the wheel locks, but oh well, if they want my rims that badly they can have them, and I'll let insurance cover them.
-juice
-Dave
So how difficult is the uppipe install?
Ken
Uppipe is a PITA, but not technically difficult. Now that Zephyr and I have done a few, we can usually finish it in about 2-2.5hrs in good conditions. Certain aftermarket uppipes are easier to install than others and new gaskets are required. You also need to jack the engine to get it out.
-mike
-juice
Cool. Didn't know you had a website for your business. How long have you been doing this for?
Make any housecalls to the west coast? ;-)
Ken
Ken, if I'm out in your area, by all means I'll help yah out
It's been pretty good, been doing it about a year. Mostly started as a help to people then we started getting tons of requests so kinda made it into a little biz so that we could finance our track days and auto-x. It doesn't even cover all the fees for doing auto-x and HPDE but helps and we love helping people on their cars. People like to have us do the work cause they can watch and don't have to leave their car during work hrs to get it done (when they usually need the car for work or what not).
-mike
-juice
-mike
Ken
My wife and I both went with 50% on the fronts (driver/pass.) and 35 on the rest. AZP has a top notch guy doing tint. One of these days, I'll take and post pics.
-Dennis
The sound from 0->2700 is a very very nice deep V8 sounding tone.
-mike
Jim
-mike
Jim
Z1 is a joke these days, ever since they moved to their new building.
-mike
Also, am attempting to install a transmission cooler for the auto trans. Any tips or advice? Should I bypass the tranny cooler already in the rad or incorporate it with the external cooler??
Dave
The only trick on the Forester was you had to remove one bolt holding the fuel vacuum canister in place. Be careful, if you have to do the same, to reconnect the hoses. If there is a leak it will trigger a CEL and may even shut off the engine.
-juice
-mike
Also, remember that although the hitch components for class II are rated at 3500lbs, the OB is limited to 2000....
Steve
-juice
We should have a Tow Topic so we don't hijack all these threads. ;-)
-juice
Bob
Steve
-juice
Oops... I was going to keep quiet on this one...
Bob
-mike