Subaru Crew - Modifications II

ateixeira

See if you can find a 2" receiver, it's more universal. It does not increase capacity, of course.

-juice

rsholland

come standard with Class II hitch receiver. A Class III/IV hitch receiver is part of the factory tow package option.

Bob

paisan

Gotcha. Was wondering why they all had the smaller one. I wonder why they have to nickle and dime like that. Couldn't they just put in the class III to begin with? Also how integral is the class II? Could it be upgraded later on?

-mike

rsholland

I don't know.

My next door neighbor just got a new '03 Explorer Limited a few days ago. The thing is loaded. He has a couple of boats, so he did get the optional tow package. Because he and his wife don't have kids, they did not get the 3rd row seat option. By doing so, the have an extra good sized hidden storage area under the rear floor, just behind the 2nd row seats. This is their 3rd Explorer, and they seem very happy with the new one.

Bob

ateixeira

A lot of trucks come with them built into the bumpers, but those are probably just Class II.

-juice

ducktapeguy

Just got mine the other day, I was wondering if there were any special installation instructions for mounting the coolers. Also, do the coolers need to be bled? Seems like there would be a lot of air trapped in the cooler when it's mounted, and no way for it to escape. How do the air bubbles get out of it? At least the radiator has the filler cap at the highest point, the AT cooler has nothing. Should I prefill the cooler with fluid before attaching the hoses?

paisan

pump fluid through it. and air should vent out the vent tubes of the tranny.

-mike

ducktapeguy

I forgot to add i have a B&M stacked plate cooler. It's more like a bunch of tubes running in parallel rather than the single snake like tube design like a Hayden. So if I mount it like shown on the instructions (inlet and outlet on the bottom) it seems like the air is just going to be trapped at the top and compressed, and all of the fluid will just bypass on the lower tubes of the cooler.

And another question, when I flush out my tranny, do i have have to worry about air in the torque converter? Too much conflicting information on the web, some people say a complete flush is no good as it will trap air in the converter if you're not careful, other people say it dosen't matter. Since I was going to disconnect the hose to the cooler anyway, I was going to just change the fluid too. but now I'm thinking I might just drain the pan only. Not sure what to believe.

dave226

Thanks for all the input. The Subie dealer in town tells me that the class 2 hidden hitch is oe...anyways, I have it ordered and will most likely get it by weeks end and will let you know how it went.
Has anyone installed a wire harness for the 2000 outbacks? wondering if the vehicle can handle the extra amperage needed to power the extra trailer lights.

ps I would start a new discussion for towing...only if I knew how??!

Cheers, Dave

ateixeira

Outback and Forester are pre-wired, I think those are the only Subies that are. Maybe Baja, I dunno.

Bob - forgot to mention I didn't have time to look at that burned out bulb, sorry 'bout that.

-juice

fibber2

There is a connector hidden in the right side panel in the back. Start by taking out the floor panel and tray over the spare tire. Just to the right is a small foam piece that butts between the removeable floor panel and the sidewall panel (maybe 8" x 2ft). Lift that out (there are some positioners and velcro, IIRC, holding it in place). You should then be able to get your hands under the side panel and feel a tangle of wires. Gently fish around for a flat connector (5 pins???). Your interface module plugs into that. The wires are a fresh 12v, gnd, and signal wires to the tail/directional/brake lights. The interface module senses the signal to the cars lamps, then sends power to the trailer using the fresh 12v line, avoiding loading. It also converts the separate directional / brake lights (Euro/Asia) to the US std 1157 combo bulb typically used on trailers.

Hope that helps,

Steve

dave226

Steve- thanks for the info. Got the harness today from the dealer and will look for the connector this weekend when I install the hitch.

gvmelbrty

Hitches? Trailers? Who needs to tow a trailer when you can just throw everything on top?

http://www.snopes.com/photos/lumber.asp

-tom

lakepop

Absolutely loved that picture.....never ceases to amaze me how people live in another world.....hilarious picture......:0 : )

bat1161

Tom-

Great picture/story! It was nice to have something to laugh about-it's a wet dreary weekend coming up in the NE.

Mark

dave226

Wow couldn't believe it was so easy to install the hitch. 4 bolts, two onto the tie downs and two into the subframe. Gave the subframe a spray of rust proofing while the rubber plug was off. Next week...camping with the trailer.

ateixeira

Cool Dave, have fun camping! :-)

-juice

ducktapeguy

Just finished installing the tranny cooler on my car. It was pretty easy, but had to run to the store because I ran out of hose. It's in series with the stock radiator cooler, and in front of the condenser. I ended up removing the radiator fans in order to get enough room to attach those clips.

While I was at it, I changed the spark plugs, flushed out the cooling system, changed all the filters, and changed the power steering and tranny oil. I was going to change the steering rack bushings, but for some reason one of the bushings didn't fit, so I'll have to wait on that one.

Now I'm ready to go camping too.

paisan

Did you put it before or after the stock-cooler? I put mine after it so that the coolest fluid is flowing back to the AT.

-mike

ducktapeguy

I put in after the stock cooler for the same reason. I think my transmission shifts better now, but I'm probably imagining it.

Also, when I replaced my spark plugs, I found out that the factory plugs were worn down, the gap was almost .080", almost double the specification. I don't know if that affects anything, my car still ran fine, but I'm glad I changed them.

ateixeira

Hmm, what mileage for the plugs? Just curious.

Good job on the tranny cooler. Did you get pics?

-juice

jlemole

Does anyone know where the additional power outlet goes in an 02 OBW? The picture for the OEM additional power outlet seems to show it installed between the top of the parking brake "boot" and the front lip of the armrest door. My car has the cupholders on the center console. I don't have a space between the parking brake "boot" and the armrest, but I have a useless little changeholder plood right between the gear shifter and the cupholders. I'm guessing maybe this peice snaps out and the additional outlet snaps in there????

Jon

dcm61

The changeholder is the location for the heated seat switches for cars with the All Weather Package Option.

I looked at the accessory brochure for an '02 Outback and online at Subaru.com and I don't see the additional power outlets offered. I know they were offer for the last generation ('96-'99) and I believe they went in the location that you described (behind the parking brake).

DaveM

jlemole

Subaruparts.com has it listed for 02 Outback, but I just noticed that it does say that it's not compatible with all weather package. I bet you can swap that little changeholder for either the heated seats switch or the additional outlet. I guess some confirming phonecalls are in order.

jlawton2

I read somewhere here, I believe in an archived discussion, a suggestion for reducing road noise by adding insulation like you'd get in a stero store. I've also heard of something called "undercarriage soundproofing" but I don't know what that entails, if either of these is compatible with the Forester, or if it'd conflict with the manufacturers warranty

I'd like to know more to see if it's a way to quiet our new Forester down a little, for long road trips, etc. Hopefully it 's something hidden that doesn't reduce the space in the car? Otherwise I'm picturing something like a padded cell and I don't want that, though some might disagree

Has anybody heard of or done this? Is it something I could DIY?
JL

maverick1017

The most common way to add sound proofing is to laydown a layer of sound deadening high density foam with an adhesive backing. This matterial can be applied to all doors (behind the panelling) under the carpeting and pretty much everywhere else you can think of. It is DIY able, though it would be a good size project that would take a good part of a day. If you have help it will go faster. There are many different types of sound deadening foam out there with a big range in prices. You need to determine how much sound do you want to cut and how much you are willing to spend. Basic tools are all you need to install, sharp utility knife, upholstry remover, and in some instances a can of spray adhesive. Oh and a hair dryer set on low will come in handy too. The material you buy should come with instruction and list of supplies needed for proper install. The Forester will always have wind noise no matter how much foam you put down.

Hope this helps

Mike

ateixeira

Check out Crutchfield, they sell such a product.

For those with interior air filters, check them annually. Mine were filthy! Time to change them.

-juice

kens

Dynamat, IIRC.

Ken

locke2c

dynamat is too expensive. there are alternatives that work just as well and cost far less.

I've also used a spray-on coating before. can't recall the name unfortunately.

-Colin

lark6

Dynamat isn't just expensive, it's also heavy. I know; after I replaced the front floorpans in my Studebaker, I covered the floorpans in Dynamat before recarpeting. I figured it didn't matter in that case; the Stude is a slow cruiser and the ride might as well be pleasant.

Ed

paisan

I think that's what is in the SVX. It's silent inside, even with my super ricy exhaust (that is still being worked out) also weighs in at 3600lbs on the touring edition v. 3400 on the non-touring edition.

-mike

gvmelbrty

"RAAMmat" is a much less expensive option for sound dampening that many people are happy with: http://www.raamaudio.com/products.htm

But the least expensive adhesive-backed dampening sheets I've found are here: http://www.mcmaster.com/ Search for product number: 9709T19. At least one person reported this was satisfactory stuff, but for $15, it wouldn't hurt to buy a sheet and check it out.

-tom

jlawton2

Thanks for the info on sound-dampening. You all are a great resource. If I ever get going on any of my projects with the new car I can probably be the "if anything can go wrong..." guy. So before I tear up the carpet I think I'll relax a bit.

I was looking into this as a possible solution to elminating some noise up from the pavement and also dampening some of the fine tremor that we feel in the new Forester when it's in a drive gear. I'm going to check it out but I may wait a bit on the insulation and give the car a little time to see if some of the noise/buzzz settles. We've only got 120 miles on it. It seems like it's not quite as apparent as it was the first few days.

On my 98 Forester the engine has gotten more rumbly so there's not the same kind of rhythm. I think the new car maybe just has a more even humm than we're not used to lately. And my wife had a manual transmission in her Outback so she usually had the clutch disengaged when crawling through city traffic, sitting at a light, etc. which is when she most notices the vibration in the new car. She doesn't like switching in and out of neutral with the automatic just to avoid the hum.
jl

jlawton2

I was reading the long term '03 and follow-up '02 Forester road tests on this site and I think the buzz I'm feeling , as someone's already said here, IS just something that's peculiar to the boxer engine rather than any sort of problem

The '02 road test pretty much described the sensation of the drive train, road feel, etc. and even suggested a little eventual sound dampening by the manufactuer as a solution. We're getting more used to it but maybe the matting everyone's suggested would still be interesting to try one of these days.

paisan

I think that's only present in the H4s. My H6s seem to be quieter that the H4s.

-mike

ateixeira

Much quieter. My wife didn't realize the LL Bean we test drove was running, and almost tried to "start" it again.

-juice

dave226

Ducktapeguy, what size tranny cooler did you go with?....7 x 11 ? Also, while looking at the tranny lines, which one did you splice the cooler into...one closer to the drivers side or passenger? And did you run into any snags? As I want to install one as well.

Thanks.

lucien2

Discuss, please (more engineers here than in my house, heh heh)

http://lighting.mbz.org/tech/relays/relays.html

jfl

I read this some time ago and considered doing it until I got the wiring diagrams. IIRC Subies already have multiple relays as shown in the article. (A very thought provoking article, btw.)

Jim

francophile

He knows what he's talking about but he can be a bit evangelistic. If I recall my wiring diagram correctly Subies already use relays so that the high current does not have to travel through switches and the like, however the wiring diameters are a bit wimpy by "Stern standards". On other forums he has said that lighting quality improves in Subies just by putting larger wires in; this is technically possible.

By the way another good reason not to route high current through switches is so that you can do cool things like controlling them with computers :-)

Cheers,
-wdb

paisan

AZP Installs just performed our first one this past weekend. Everything went smooth, except for the tumbler-valve actuator, which we didn't realized needed to be pre-loaded when re-installed. Took us about 6hrs to perform going at a normal/slow pace.

-mike

locke2c

blarg, I hate that TGV. I hope it's doing something useful...

-Colin

paisan

Cause it ran pretty crappy when it wasn't setup right.
Fixed it and bam running like a champ.

-mike

bluesubie

Missed you at the BBQ. Mmmm, it was good. :-)
Who's car did you work on?

-Dennis

paisan

Yeah we were working on a guy Anthony from SQC's Defi Guages on Sunday, the VF30 went in on Friday Night into The Donnnn's car. Very sweet now.

-mike

ducktapeguy

Dave226,
I believe I went with a 6x11" tranny cooler from B&M. I forgot the actual size already, but it was one of the smaller ones they had. I installed it in series after the stock cooler, so the hose on the passanger side connects to the cooler, and the output of the cooler connects back into the hard lines. No snags, it's easy to install if you remove the radiator to gain more room inside. I installed mine in front of the condenser, but to attach the clips I needed to remove the radiator. Since i was flushing out the coolant at the same time, it's no big deal, there's only 2 or 3 bolts you need to undo. Probably takes an hour or two if it's your first time.

Also, most newer cars all use relays for the headlights, but subaru uses a switched ground system rather than a normal ground. I found this out while installing HID's. The three plugs for the H4 headlights are normally HighBeam: Ground: Low Beam. Under normal operation (low beams) the wires are 0V: 0V: +12V. When you switch to high beam, the ground becomes +12V, so it switches off the lowbeam and switches on the highbeam in one operation.

bat1161

Question for you Mod guru's. I was perusing the Leagcy board over at the "other" Subaru site so many frequent, and someone mentioned installing the Comfort ALK for a tighter suspension. What is that, and is it worth it? I ask because I know when I take some of the turns, there is a lot of sway and leaning.

On another note I did order a replacement grill and badge from Liberty, along with the cabin air filters; thanks to the recommendation from those on this board. Turn-a-round time was 4 business days from when I mailed it. Not bad at all. Now, I actually have to do the replacement. I also finally ordered the skid plates from Primitive which should be coming in any day now. Now I won't have to worry so much if I go to the Pine Barrens, or any dirt roads.

Mark

hypov

Mark-
It's an Anti-Lift Kit offered by Whiteline, Comfort being one of the variations of the type of kit offered.
This might shed some light:-
http://www.whiteline.com.au/articles/AS_Rex_on_rails_3.pdf



-Dave

bat1161

Thanks Dave. It was an interesting read. It sounds like the sway bar should be done before doing this ALK kit. It's something for me to think about. I just keep noticing how when I take a corner, I keep feeling the car lean. I guess that after all the discussions I have followed here I am finally noticing it.

Mark

lucien2

Yes swaybar and link upgrade will make you happier than the ALK. How often are you lifting the inside front anyway?

Also, consider the source of that ALK review for a moment....think back about 6 months ago....lots of exclamation points.... compulsive/obsessive car buying...