Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/22 for details.
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/22 for details.
Options
My Salesperson Misled Me
This discussion has been closed.
Comments
I noticed that for Tier 0, the rates are LOWER for 2004-06 vehicles versus the new or demo ones - 8.24 vs 8.95 for 620+, and 11.24 vs. 11.45 for under 620. Seems counterintuitive - new and demo cars represent a higher risk to the lender? The difference in rates is small, but is there nevertheless.
1. Right Click on photo
2. Click properties
3. Copy url (i.e web site address of photo)
4. Come back to Edmund's and paste the URL you just copied into you message
5. Hold down right mouse button and drag cursor across the URL you just pasted
6. Click the IMG button located right above the :confuse: emotorcon
7. Click preview to make sure your picture shows up in the post
8. Click post my message
9. Tell Mack all the cars he post pics of suck and the cars you post are superior.
Just like the Guys who work for Ford Motor Company in sales support wouldn't know a good prospect if it walked up and kicked them in the [non-permissible content removed].
http://www.caranddriver.com/assets/image/2007/W35/082820071814086707.jpg
Cut and paste this URL into a new message, highlight it, and click IMG and it will work
Mackabee
Google search for Smileys or emotes.
I had NO credit and got 3.9% APR for 5 years on my first car purchase. I did not even haggle.
Do your own reseach and get financing at your local credit union ahead of time.
Do your own research and get financing at your local credit union ahead of time.
1. - Don't let someone who has years of experience add to your research - and above all don't do a test drive. That will make you talk to a dealership.
2. Never believe someone who may know more than you do about the car, financing and accessories.
2. Totally agree
3. Good idea - but there is a good chance a dealer can get you a better rate.
And the original- for comparison purposes only...
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
my wife bought a CPO as her first car.
Mackabee
Mackabee
Kind looks like the new Accord with a hatch.
:shades:
Even mazda learnt it the hard way when it tried to imitate Totota and tried to make a camry-like family car -> the now deceased 626.
It saw success whenever it did original work - RX7, MX-5, Protege, Mazda6, Mazda3 and now the CX-9.
Mack
Sorry Mack (vic) but nobody gives two cents if toyota had that design in the bag for 20 years now.
Mack
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
A tC Supercharged?
It's an attractive car, but according to Inside Line test results...
Mazdaspeed3-tC Supercharged
0-60: 5.9-7.2
1/4 mile: 14.2-15.1
60-0(ft): 116.0-119.5
Slalom(mph): 68.2-66.3
EPA Economy:20/28-22/29
Limited Slip:Std.-N/A
MSRP: 24,650-26,560
The regular tC is a very nice runabout/sports coupe for under $20K, but I suspect the majority of buyers are secretaries rather than car buffs. I'd bet that the automatic to manual ratio is 4-to-1.
Again Mack, I'm not saying Toyota builds bad cars; it's just that the cars they build aren't very entertaining. There's nothing in their product mix for guys like me who loved the MR2, Celica, and Supra.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
Mackabee
The price I listed was for a Mazdaspeed3 Grand Touring, which adds a trip computer, 6 disc Bose sound system, automatic Xenon headlamps, rain sensing wipers, a theft deterrence system, and leather trimmed seats. The "base" Mazdaspeed3 is the Sport, which goes for $22975. Does the price of the TRD supercharger include installation? Assuming it does, the tC would still need a LSD($1350) and 18" wheels and tires($1565) to match the Mazdaspeed's level of equipment. The tC does have a standard sunroof, something that is unavailable on the Mazdaspeed(which is fine with me; I dislike sunroofs). That said, even if installation costs are included on all three TRD items the MSRP of the tC would now be -according to the Scion web site, anyway- $23735.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
I still believe the tC in standard form is the best bang for the buck.
Mackabee
First thing is to compare apples to apples. Both vehicles should be valued using the same ACV (actual cash value) criteria. If the trade in is assigned auction value, then the used vehicle should get auction value as well. After that the dealer/salesman profit/commission should be applied.
Don't let your trade fall out of value and the buy vehicle become overvalued just because they found a buyer who will overpay (you).
New vehicles are a little tougher to assign ACV to, but invoice should not be exceeded unless there is high demand. *Remember demand is very low on almost all vehicles presently. Don't get caught in an overpayment for a diminshing asset combined with a low trade value.
Sometimes there is no way around a trade-in situation. Don't give away your trade. If you knew what the trade-in was for the vehicle you're about to buy it would make sense to value accordingly then add profits/commission.
2013 Mustang GT, 2001 GMC Yukon Denali
" but invoice should not be exceeded unless there is high demand"
So, dealers should sell their cars for what they pay for them? That makes a lot of business sense!
" If the trade in is assigned auction value, thenthe used vehicle should get auction value as well"
So, we should sell our used cars for what we pay for them at the auction??
Please understand that stores have to make a (gasp) profit in order to stay in business! I don't think you have a clue about the tremendous OVERHEAD that we deal with before we can open the doors!
As far as trades, there are a lot of trades that we simply don't want! We don't want your 120,000 miled up domestic mini-van. Yes, we understand that they are ALL freeway miles, and we know your dead A/C "just needs a charge".
These cars "no sale" at the auctions too. Nobody wants them!
I'm sure your sage advise is well intensioned but it doesn't reflect the reality of the marketplace!
Just trying to help the buyers take apart things salesfolks like to combine together.
If they're reading here they're already doing what they can to get a fair deal. Edmunds is a great resource. However once they hit the lot things can get confusing quickly. I'm saying all aspects of the "deal" should be looked at individually.
Once the trigger is pulled you can't just hit the undo button.
2013 Mustang GT, 2001 GMC Yukon Denali
Also, commission is based on profit
People just have to realize that market forces control pricing. Not just on cars but everything.
I guess I can't blame them and I never try to discredit their reasearch or their sources. I just try to gently explain reality. Sometimes I will show them auction numbers.
Then they will point out asking prices and tell me "I know what these are selling for"!
Usually, I just let these people out as nicely as I can. They will go all over the state sometimes shopping themselves to death.
I get a lot of these people back once they realize I simply tried to explain reality to them.
Go ahead and use the black one instead of the orange one, but use the same book for both vehicles...then add profit/commission.
Trades are funny. One mans trash, another's treasure. If you don't want the trade just say so. You may lose the sale, but hey if you don't want it just say "I don't want your trade". You may be rewarded for honesty.
2013 Mustang GT, 2001 GMC Yukon Denali