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Mazda6 Engine Problems



  • ziggy68ziggy68 Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Mazda6i, My car developed a disturbing knocking / rattling noise at about 65,000 miles. I just got the car back from the dealer, but the sound has not been fixed. After a week in the shop, they replaced a belt tensioner, water pump, the serpentine belt, fuel injector cleaning, oil change and the car still knocks. They now say the noise must be internal and want authorization ($$$) to tear down the engine to find the source of the problem. Since the warranty has expired, I am not inclined to foot the bill to have the dealer break all of the original seals, head gasket, oil pan, etc. so they can fish for the unknown knocking noise. If anyone else with the 4 cyl engine has been able to fix their knocking problem, please explain what was done.
  • enterthe6enterthe6 Posts: 1
    I have a 04 Mazda 6 and love this car. Today I tried to start it and it would not start. the radio and lights went on so i didn't think it was the battery. I noticed while trying to start the engine the speedometer gauges jumped. I can hear the clicking as i tried to start it. Do you think this is a starter or a alternator issue? I'm bout to bring to a dealer and afraid they will try to convince me that all these other parts needs to be fixed that not related to the problem. I just want to be sure on what the problem with my car before i bring it in.. Please advise.. thanks
  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Posts: 1,230
    If the gauges jumped when you tried to start it, I wouldn't rule out the battery just yet, since the gauge-jumping seems to be a common symptom of a dead battery on the Mazda6. It is also possible for the battery to have enough juice for the radio and lights, but be too weak to start (which takes a considerable more amount of amps).

    Try and start the car with the headlights on, if they dim considerably (or go out completely), then it's the battery. You can also take the battery to an auto parts store that can test it to see if it's the problem.

    I doubt it's the alternator, since the engine actually has to be running for it to affect the electrical system. My next guess, after the battery, would be the starter.
  • milkman1milkman1 Posts: 80
    You just described what happened to my 03 Mazda 6 back in 07. Sounds like that's how long the original battery will last. Depending on your situation you may want to call the dealer and ask about it still being under warranty as the warranty is longer than the rest of the car if you read it. It's prorated. In my case, the dealer price was so high that the proration didn't offset the cost so I just got a battery at Sears. Only trick is the alarm hasn't been right since. No biggie though, the alarm just goes off when I open my trunk if I locked my doors with the remote beforehand
  • bensdiskbensdisk Posts: 1
    well im just about like some others about the oil becomming low but my engine blew. i need to replace it any ideas where to get one in michigan for a good
    price. plus i have to have it installed i live by howard city

  • mschellermscheller Posts: 1
    I have a 05 Mazda 6 and love this car. Today I tried to start it and it would not start. the radio and lights went on so i didn't think it was the battery. I noticed while trying to start the engine the speedometer gauges jumped. I can hear the clicking as i tried to start it. Do you think this is a starter or a alternator issue? I'm bout to bring to a dealer and afraid they will try to convince me that all these other parts needs to be fixed that not related to the problem. Also, I've already installed a new battery, and the symptoms are still the same. I just want to be sure on what the problem with my car before i bring it in...Any advice? Thanks.
  • andcalandcal Posts: 2
    Hey Thatguy,

    I hope your problem has been fixed.

    I started hearing a noise in my Marza6i as yours. In my case, the problem was related to the speed and it started knocking when reach 60m/h.

    My problem has been fixed. It was the plastic tray, under the engine that was loose and tapped to the road, making a really weird noise.

    Good luck,
  • I have the same car... my engine started 'tapping' at about 75000 miles, and it only does so after 2500 RPMs. i took it to the dealer for diagnosis and they had no idea, they wanted to put a whole new engine in it, $7000. i think the car is only worth about 9000. ive taken it to several smaller shops and no one seems to want to work on it, its an 'exotic' engine. one guy told me that they are build pretty well and when you hear a noise coming from the engine, its usually too late to save it. im trying to find something to add to the engine to quiet it down long enough for me to trade it in!!
    how is it going for your car?
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    The 2.3L I4 is "exotic", who would've thought :surprise:
  • Hey,

    You gotta check out this great website to find a good engine. My Mazda6 engine blew because of a stuck PCV valve, and I found a great engine on this site. I'm from Michigan also, but I found my low mileage 3.0L engine in South Dakota for only $900 + $250 shipping.

    Oh, here is the website: It has a great search engine for salvage parts for any year and model of car...and shows results by price or distance, whichever you choose. Contact numbers (usually toll-free) and websites for the yards are right there for your convenience. A lot of yards are connected to this, so you'll get plenty of results! Good luck! :D
  • Does anyone have a diagram or picture(s) you could share showing the locations of the four O2 sensors on a '04 Mazda6 3.OL? I really would appreciate anyone sharing this information!

    Thankssss!! :)
  • "Ericzoom", Thanks a million!

    So..., I see there are 4 (four) individual part numbers for the sensors. Which P/N is for the one NOT mounted on the engine, but actually in the exhaust on the driver's side pipe. I've got the engine out and it's staring me in the face!

    ALSO, can I use a universal four-wire sensor for this application?

    Thanks to any who can help
  • Well, as i previously posted, i had a Mazda 6 with a tap in the engine, no one wanted to dig into it and pinpoint the problem. the only solution i got was a new engine costing 7000, the car is only worth about 7000 and i still owed 8000 on it. anyway, i poured some 'motor honey' in the engine and over the next few days the knock wasnt as loud and didnt start until about 3500-4000 RPMs, as opposed to it being 2500 before the additive. I quieted it enough to trade it in, they gave me 7000 for it!! i recommend the motor honey for all your engine tapping needs. it looks just like honey and you add it with about 3 quarts of oil. its not a permanent soultion, but it worked long enough for me to get rid of the car for a good deal. im driveing a honda now!
  • i had the same thing happen to mine... it was the battery. simple and easy fix... however the new battery was 120 bucks! nothing is ever as simple and easy as you think.
  • ericzoomericzoom Posts: 213
    What kind of battery did you get that cost $120? I paid $83 installed for my Duralast battery at Autozone, back in Feb.
  • hmmm, im not sure. it was the only one that the car would take. i installed in myself, or should i say my bf did. we got it at national auto.
  • My car recently started to drive really strange. My check engine light will come on and off whenever it feels like. But I have aftermarket parts on my car, so I figured some sensors were just out of whack. Well, yesterday, my car started to like jump while I was driving and also while it was idleing, almost like it was going to stall. When I am driving, I will push on the gas to accelerate and the RPMs will go up but it will take a few seconds for my car to actually gain speed. I am thinking it is either an oxygen sensor or something with my fuel. Any suggestions?
  • Hi all.
    Have rather a large issue I was after some help with...
    Last week, engine started to rattle then smoke, so I stopped and pulled over to find it was out of oil (I check it fortnightly).I filled it up and then drove it home.The next day on the way to the garage it just stopped.
    Since then the RAC and mechanics have looked at it and say the engine is irreparable.
    I have had it for 3 months and 1 week - the used car warranty? 3 months...
    Any suggestions about how to go about headhunting for my money? Anyone else heard of these issues at 50,000miles, so I have more ammunition when I go in?
    Nick (Britain)
  • My 07 Mazda 6 did the same thing. I'm an engineer a mechanic and a racecar driver. I know that Mazda has a problem as do they. But they would not cover the problem. The believed the dirt bag dealer Dworkin Chevy Mazda. So I fixed it myself. Runs great now.
  • aviboy97aviboy97 Posts: 3,159
    The believed the dirt bag dealer Dworkin Chevy Mazda're a race car driver...own a sporty ...and yet you claim you are smarter then the manufacturer who built it....yeah, I can see why they didn't want to cover it. So, since the mfgr proved you abused it, that makes the dealer "dirt bag's" Yeah, ok, that makes total sense.

    If abuse was proved, you lose. Apparently that's what happened. If you can prove you did not abuse it, which since you are sooo smart, you should have done.
  • At six months old was rusting at back wheel arches, back wings were cut off and replaced under warranty. Then water started coming in through the repair. Into dealer three times before finally fixed . Now i have a rattling noise from the engine 64000 on the clock, and now the battery seems to have went too, it is also going through lots of oil but no sign of a leak,time for a trade in I think to something more reliable.
  • ericzoomericzoom Posts: 213
    I don't know about the overseas Mazda6, but here in the states that seems to be a well known problem associated with the PCV valve malfunctioning. I know it's probably a waste of time, but you can see if the place you bought it from will do anything for you.
  • my girlfriend has 2003 mazda 6 with the i4 auto trans and it ran good at first then the engine start acting up the rpm'ss would go up and down you had to leave the ac on so it would'nt die at a stop light we took to the dealer for the diagnostic and the said the problem was a vacume leak under the intake and wanted like almost $800 to fix most for the labor. so we took it some where else. And it now a year later same thing is happing again took it autozone to have the engine code looked at this mat sound weird but there are four codes in the computer and some are reapeate codes. p2009 three times p0302 two times other are p0410 and p2004 those were the codes autozone was showing. the engine will start backing fireing then start shaking like its runnig out of gas. we had the o2 sensor was replace before. Any sugestions? please. this car is junk and it sounds like they have been having may problems
    Thanks :confuse:
  • aviboy97aviboy97 Posts: 3,159
    so we took it some where else

    problem #1...if you had the Mazda dealer fix it, they would have used the corrected part. A local mechanic would have used a replacement part....

    And it now a year later same thing is happing again took it autozone

    Autozone does not have the correct engine codes all the time....

    What ever car you buy, or own, always bring it to the manufacturers dealer to resolve issues, especially because of the complex nature of the computer systems....
  • I've started having this same problem with the burning odor when using the HVAC on my 2006 Mazda6 4 cylinder. Greg, did you ever find out what caused the problem? Has anyone else had this same experience?
  • dcf2dcf2 Posts: 3
    Have you changed the cabin air filter? They can get plenty smelly over time.
  • racefanf1racefanf1 Posts: 35
    UPDATE: I wrote the original item here. I'm very pleased to report my Mazda 6 is running super with the replacement engine $2500.00. Mazda was usless in helping me with my "under warranty" problem. They stuck with their awful position that YOU CAN NOT DO YOUR OWN OIL CHANGES! They are "DUNG" I have had 7 Mazdas and no more. I just bought a new Subaru. More rewarding is Dworkin Chevrolet Mazda has closed. I only hope I helped these bastards die. I still want to hear the service manager Bob Kenworthy has been eviscerated, castrated, raped and killed.
  • sharon31sharon31 Posts: 1
    Help, I purchased a M6, 2006 with a remote keyless entry and I have a problem that occurs intermittently. Whenever it is starting to rain or we have very high humidity my horn will blow 3-10 times in very short spurts and I have no control over this. Most of the time it is when I press the brake but sometimes it just goes off. On one particular occasion it kept up a steady series of blows for 20 miles. If I replace the fuse under the hood it sometimes stops immediately only to return a few months later. I have no Idea when it will reoccur. Dealership is baffled, said everything checked out. Thought it was related to the Keyless R Entry/security system but the dealership says no. Please any ideas would be greatly appreciated, this could be very dangerous, people think I'm blowing at them and they don't alway take kindly.
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Posts: 210
    I have the 2009 mazda6 2.5 I4. I am noticing a tapping noise when accelerating from a stop at low rpm, as the car shifts, the noise is gone, so only appears at initial acceleration. It does not happen when idling. And I only hear it in the evening probably because of much less outside road noise at night compare to driving during the day.
    I tried reproducing when at idle, I can hear it if I rev up slightly to 1000 rpm. if I increase the rpm, the tapping sound is gone. Is this normal of this engine, or should I be worried and take it in for service? I did notice on my oil change receipt from the dealer that they are using bulk 5w30 oil. The manual recommends 5w20 oil. Could the
    thicker 5w30 oil be causing this issue?
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