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Mazda6 Engine Problems



  • Using a good quality synthetic oil, you can easily extend the interval between changes. I'd stick to the recommendation that the oil manufacturer gives for intervals, or you may shorten it based on your comfort level.
  • Hey Dan-
    Like others have recommended, I would drain the oil and fill up with the 5w-20 that is used for your car. Also, unless the car already uses synthetic oil, I wouldn't switch to synthetic with a car 6 years old now. I don't know how many miles are on your car, but I'd recommend replacing the spark plugs and ignition coils yourself if they haven't been replaced yet. It is super easy to do on a 4 cylinder. When you do that, I would replace the PCV valve at the same time. As for general maintenance, unless you know it has been done recently, I would flush the coolant system, drain/refill the tranny fluid, and replace the brake and power steering fluid. I would say to replace the spark plugs, ignition coils, pcv valve, and all the fluid exchanges, it would run you around $450 (assuming you do most of it yourself, except for the coolant flush, tranny drain/refill, and brake flush). Not too much money to know your ignition system is firing good and your fluids are all new and fresh. Let me know if you have any questions how to do that stuff as I have done all of it on my car, which is the V6 version.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Unless they were using different fluids in 2004, the coolant is supposed to be good for 10 years or 120,000 miles.

    At least as of 2007 no transmission fluid changes are specified in the maintenance schedule, not that this necessarily means it is a good idea to never change it...

    If you do not have one, you can get an electronic copy of the owners manual, which includes the maintenance schedule, by registering with mazdausa,com
  • I would definitely not wait 10 years or 120,000 miles to do a coolant flush. Especially where I live (Arizona) where we get 115* during the summer. I would recommend doing a coolant flush every 4 years or 50,000 miles. Same with the tranny drain/refill. Last time I had a coolant flush and tranny drain/refill done, it cost $130 out the door. Minor cost in my opinion to extend the life of the radiator, water pump, and transmission. Manufacturers want to keep their Cost of Ownership down, so they do extend out their recommended maintenance. Fluids break down and it's definitely not a good idea to go 10 years without replacing them.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    The intervals are also extended because the fluids are different that what was used in the past. I assume they are using synthetic transmission fluid? and the long life coolant is not the old green ethylene glycol. Did you get synthetic trans fluid and long life coolant for $130?
  • They also say engine oils have advanced and that we can go 5,000 miles + for oil changes. I still stick to 3,000 miles. Single best thing you can do for your car in my opinion is keep up with the oil changes, even with the advancements in automotive oil. The $130 was for long life coolant, but not synthetic transmission fluid. Even with long life coolant, I would never go past 50,000 miles. To each his own on maintaining their car. I prefer to do oil changes every 3k miles instead of 5k, and I prefer coolant flushes every 50k instead of 100k. The way I see it is, it will cost me an extra $260 over a 100,000 mile period to change the oil every 3k instead of 5k miles (33 oil changes instead of 20, @ $20 per oil change since I do my own oil changes), and another $80 for a coolant flush at 50k miles instead of extending to 100k. So, over a 100,000 mile period it cost an extra $340 for the oil changes and coolant flush. Lets say I do 15,000 miles per year. Thats 6.5 years to reach 100,000 miles. $340 over a 6.5 year period is another $50 per year. I think I'd prefer to pay the extra $50 per year to maintain my car than to risk more problems in the future. Just my $0.02.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    I'm not sure it is a good idea to have exchanged the synthetic transmission fluid for conventional. The transmission was designed to use a certain fluid, if I did change it I would spend the extra money to put in what it was designed to use.

    If I do wait 10 years to change my coolant, I'll likely have only 75,000 miles on it anyway. At about that mileage, I figure I'll see what the current thinking is on changing synthetic transmission fluid also.
  • Scary how many posts on this topic. I purchased a 2007 M6 used in late 2008. A family friend and certified mechanic has done all maint, including oil changes - in fact, I have oil changes done every other month to avoid these kinds of issues. Of course, no 'company letterhead' receipts since he works out of his own garage on the side. In Dec 2009, fairly severe engine knock showed up one morning with no advance warning, no maint lights, nothing. About 2 miles later on the way to the dealer, the engine seized. At that moment, the engine oil low level light came on. Troubleshooting at the dealer immediately pointed to 'improper maint' and 'engine oil sludge'. Interestingly, 3 days earlier I was teaching my new driver daughter where the maint features were and how to check oil, etc. Oil level was perfect and oil was clean in appearance. Oh yeah, after no one at the dealer would return my calls, I showed up in person. The troubleshooting occurred without opening the engine. They did email me pictures of 2 holes in the manifold. Having worked with castings for the past 20 years, it was a textbook case of porosity failure. As I further questioned the service dept, I was told that 'a valve or rod must have burst and gotten thrown due to poor maint and loose metal in the engine caused the holes.' When I asked exactly what parts failed to cause this damage, I was informed they hadn't taken the engine apart enough to know. The photos they took showed no mechanical contact or metallic debris and the two failure points; so I'm sure there was no true mechanical failure other than the defective part. Hmmm - trouble shooting without laying hands on the engine - and they had already sent me evidence of the defective cast part that drained the oil. 2 months we've been arguing, and they still blame me. Don't know where to turn with such an obvious failure not attributable to operational care. BTW - Car is still under the original transferable warranty, and warr manual states "...Mazda cannot deny warranty coverage solely on the basis of insufficient service receipts..." and the engine is specifically listed as covered in the 60 mo/60k mi Powertrain Limited Warranty.
    2007 engine blows in 2009 - some reliability. Bottom line, 2 holes in the block drain the oil, and they're blaming me for an oil lubrication problem.
  • Mazda 6 engines are actually Ford Tauris rngines. I found this out when my Mazda 6 blew a water pump and then the engine lost 3 cyclinders before I could pull over. The cost of a new engine is $6500. I had perfect maintenance on oil and hoses. This car has 80K miles. I still owe a ton on it and it sits in front of my driveway.
  • After months and months I gave up on having Mazda do the right thing. I'd contacted Mazda USA Headquarters and they believed the lies the dealer told them. I'm the author of this thread from the start. I've had 7 Mazdas and no more. They, as a company, suck.
  • mazda 6 stales out 10 min later starts up its the 4 cyl 2007 any ideas no check engine light scared to drive might break down
  • al5000al5000 Posts: 12
    My 2004 6 cyl Mazda 6 blew the engine at 81k. Had been well maintained, with oil changes well in advance of the recommended 7500 mile interval. No smoke, no warning lights, no signs of trouble. Just died.
    Mazda's customer service really sucked. No offer of any assistance. Even though out of warranty, a car should not blow an engine witht his few miles, and they should back their product up. They even went so far as to tell me in a letter that "even if under warranty, this would not have been covered". The inference being that I had service done by someone other than the dealer.
    The point is, DON'T BUY A MAZDA!
  • al5000al5000 Posts: 12
    Pretty sure only the 6 cylinder was a Ford Duratec no longer for last couple of years), while the 4 cylinder has always been a Mazda design.
  • aviboy97aviboy97 Posts: 3,159
    Pretty sure only the 6 cylinder was a Ford Duratec no longer for last couple of years),

    The new 3.7L is a Duratec design as well. It is built and tuned by Mazda in Japan now.
  • 2005 6 V-6 5 speed, 86000 miles.
    This has happened a couple time recently. When the fuel level is below 1/4 tank,
    when accelerating, there is a hesitation as if low fuel pressure. Fill tank and the problem goes away. Stopped at a dealer today, and he was thinking it could be a purge value starting to fail, having to do with the evaporative emission controls.
    I wouldn't think it is the fuel filter getting clogged, as the fuel level shouldn't affect the pressure. Anyone had an issue like this?
  • al5000al5000 Posts: 12
    any check engine light? What codes?
  • No, no check engine light. Car has been fine all week, with fuel level above 1/4. I could try to go to an Autozone or such, as they can read codes. Haven't tried this yet.
  • lrae2839lrae2839 Posts: 1
    I bought a 2006 Mazda 6 in October 2009. 1 week after I purchased it, the car would not start. I had gone to an appointment and came back and battery was dead for no obvious reason. I had not left any lights on and the doors were not open or ajar. It started fine wth a jump. One month later, my main headlights went out and a sidemarker light. A couple weeks later, both my fog lights went out. Then my high beams wouldn't work, but the next day they started working. During this three week period, my CD player also stopped working for a day, then started working again. The dealership replaced some bulbs and two fuses that had burnt out.

    Three months later my main headlights and side marker lights went out again. Then a few days later, the engine died at a stoplight. I was able to immediately re-start the engine and the Check Engine light came on upon start. I drove it straight to the dealership. They looked at it the next day and the Check Engine light was not on and they could not find a code registered. They tested the battery and alternator and both were fine. They told me that the previous owner had hard-wired HDI headlight bulbs and that was causing the lights and fuses to blow. They had to do some re-wiring but they ended up replacing the two mains with stock bulbs. That night I drove the car to the store after dark and the lights were very dim. When I came back to start my car 15 minutes after being inside, the car won't start. The dash lights and radio are working but engine won't crank now.

    Any suggestions?
  • grendel9grendel9 Posts: 3
    edited March 2010
    Well, Some times I am a dumb [non-permissible content removed]. While the solution to my engine noise was rather simple, reading the horror stories on this thread had me really worried.
    I had a noise coming from the engine. It seemed to happen mostly during excelleration or anytime the transmission had to down shift. Reading this stories seemed like I was in big trouble. Basically everyone that had an engine noise either said change the PCV or get a new engine. Everyone that road in my car thought the engine was about gone.
    I noticed that the noise would stop when I went over a bump at low speed or when I drove over a rise in the road.
    It was the engine mounts! I changed the one on the passenger side and the torque mount. The torque mount was not too bad but the one on the passenger side was toast. It was rattling around like crazy.
    I hope this help someone.
  • hc1798hc1798 Posts: 2
    I am familiar with this issue,not with Mazda but with Chrysler . the problem may be the main ground from the engine block to the body , some times it's to small . replace it with a size that seems more adequate. This may fix all your troubles.
    good luck and zoom zoom.
  • jestajesta Posts: 1
    I've hesitated, but just threw in the towel with Mazda. I've owned 8 Mazda's over the past 26 years, had mostly good experiences up until this 2004 Mazda 6 V6 Hatchback. I need to mention, I was a Service Manager at a Mazda dealership and left the automotive industry in 2000 after just too much pain and suffering and watching what used to be a good company start going down the slippery slope. I can't tell you how many times I went to bat for customers and won with Mazda, transmissions, engines, you name it, anything under 100k or 6 years, I could get them to pay for out of goodwill for the original owner for almost anything, especially if they were a loyal owner (had owned more than 1 Mazda) But there came a time where they started becoming more difficult to get to step up and "own" a problem for well maintained vehicles, which was right around the time I left the industry. That was over 10 years ago.
    This vehicle had synthetic since 1000 miles out of the box, over maintained, at my request, by the dealership which is my M.O. Minor problems which I considered to be "normal", but there were consistent coil failures causing secondary ignition problems..which were corrected right away each occurance. Ended up needing a new Cat at 99k, fought tooth and nail to get Mazda NA to pay 50% of the part under goodwill. BTW, I had an extended warranty which covered thousands of dollars of failures after the Mazda warranty expired...but it ended at 100k..guess what, 101k, I check the oil, down over almost 3 quarts (occurred in say a few weeks since I had checked the level prior), I noticed an unusual noise from the engine, took it in 1,000 miles early for it's oil change within the week, needs an engine..big surprise right? You can find them, but to spend 5-6k installed (I wanted a new radiator and hoses etc to do it right if I was going to keep it)seems silly on a vehicle that is worth 9k at the most retail. BTW, PCV valve was the cause of the oil "loss". I know better than to waste my time with 100k, they'll do absolutely nothing to help a customer out of goodwill, don't ever even consider it over a 100k, you'll just waste your time. If it was under 100k, I would have fought tooth and nail, and if I was lucky, I might have got them to pay 50% for the engine only, which Mazda sells (long block) for $4700...just for the part, so you do the math....used ones are between $1800-2500. Still a loosing proposition, unless you want to do the work yourself, which can be a bit of a pain in the [non-permissible content removed]. All the salvage yards/companies know this engine is in demand.
    So, that's it for me for Mazda forever, just wholesaled out of this car to the dealer, I don't want or need to deal with selling it privately. (it still runs, making a racket, blows smoke at cold start.. but it will fail entirely, the only reason it didn't blow up I suspect was the synthetic oil). I have had Toyotas for years, and even given the recent and not so recent challenges they've had, I still find their product to be far superior to Mazda. (it still runs, but it will fail entirely, the only reason it didn't blow up I suspect was the synthetic oil).
    A big disappointment for someone who used to be an Ambassador to the company, and a very big fan. I'd encourage anyone to understand, no matter how well you take care of a vehicle, if it's starved for oil for any length of time, it's going to become a problem. Always Check your oil at least once a week, or daily if you drive 100 miles or more...its the only way to possibly prevent something like this from happening and catch the loss or consumption early. Additionally, don't hesitate to replace a PCV valve at your 30k services or every 2 years, it can't hurt. I feel like a bit of an idiot for letting it go for more than a few weeks without checking the oil, because actually I probably could have prevented the failure, but most car owners can't or just won't ever have this kind of routine. It's been a sad week for me, but Goodbye Mazda, forever.
  • racefanf1racefanf1 Posts: 35
    Well folks there you have it. Same message from this last guy as I said from the start of this thread 136 messages ago. I've had 7 Mazdas he's had 8. I'm an Engineer, a mechanic & a racecar driver and he's a former Mazda Service Manager. Mazda said my problem was my doing without doing teardown / root cause annalysis. Which is fostered by "Jesta" saying Mazda has walked away from peoples problems. No more Mazdas...... ever!
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    While it is unfortunate to have this major problem at just over 100K mi, I don't think it is reasonable to expect Mazda to cover anything with that many miles under the factory warranty. I had a Ford Windstar with gasket problems at 90-95 K mi, they did nothing even though the very same engine in other Ford vehicles was given extended coverage for these gaskets. I thought it was ridiculous that they could, for example, say the very same part was defective if the engine was put in a truck but just fine if the engine was put in a minivan.

    You did not indicate if the extended warranty was from Mazda or a 3rd party. Since you were barely over 100K mi, I think there is more of an issue there. But if you had an extended warranty to 100K mi, why did you fight to get Mazda to pay for the cat at 99K, shouldn't the extended warranty have paid for that?
  • sharvillsharvill Posts: 3
    Do you have an update to the fix to the hesitation you were seeing? My wife's car is doing the same thing when it gets to 1/4 tank.
  • seanakioseanakio Posts: 4
    I have had my mazda6 for about 2 years now. Its a 2004 6-cyl hatchback w/ a manual trans. Ive been hearing a clicking or ticking sound when the car is on sitting in one spot. I can't seem to pin point the noise but its starting to freak me out a bit. Anyone heard of this problem or is it even a problem? My first impression is ticking=no good. Any help or info would be much appreciated.

  • onlamonlam Posts: 13
    I had the same problem in the last couple of months. Did you ever get it resolved?
  • sharvillsharvill Posts: 3
    I had the fuel pump replaced and it fixed the issue.
  • onlamonlam Posts: 13
    Did you have a CEL code? Mine was throwing out a P2179 everytime when the tank gets about 1/4 full.
  • al5000al5000 Posts: 12
    there is a service bulletin on fixing a camshaft ticking noise. Willing to bet that's your problem, it's common. keep in mind, we have the same model, and I had to repalce my engine at 81K, and Mazda offered NO assistance of any kind.
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