Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Do you currently own a 2019 or newer RAM pickup? A reporter would like to speak with you. Please reach out to [email protected] by 1/27 for more info.

Mazda6 Engine Problems



  • aviboy97aviboy97 Posts: 3,159
    edited December 2011
    Mazda has slipped down a very steep slope to a very bad company with no hope of recovering.

    #2 in JD Powers in non-lunury brands and #2 with Consumer Reports among non-luxury brands. Yes, such a slipery slope with no hopes of recovering....(rolling eyes)
  • Since our 2007 Maxda 6 had it's first oil change it uses way too much oil for a new car. The oil light has never come on. We were told that all new cars now use oil. I said balloney.2 days after an oil change it was a quart and a half low. We have to watch it very close. But When she blows I'm done. I will NEVER buy another Mazda or Ford. Nor anyone that I know if I can help it. As far as I'm concerned The Mazda 6, 4 Cylinder is a piece. Oh yah no oil leaks, no sighn of oil in the exhaust? Wheres it going. Hard to believe. Dave
  • ericzoomericzoom Posts: 213
    Have u checked the PCV valve. That seems to be another weak spot on the 6.
  • des5des5 Posts: 88
    The PCV issue is on the 6 cylinder, not the 4. Confusion between these engines runs rampant on these boards.
  • ericzoomericzoom Posts: 213
    I understand that, but would check it anyway.
  • Hello all,

    I have a 2004 Mazda 6 wagon with about 135K miles on it. A couple of months ago, the engine started skipping really badly. I to it to my regular mechanic (non-dealer). They replaced all the engine coils and the EGR valve. This helped for a while but soon I noticed it skipping again, although not as bad. Took it back to the mechanic. They couldn't figure anything out. They took it to the local Mazda dealer. The dealer installed some sort of software upgrade. Again, I thought it helped, but after a few days it was skipping again. Took it back and they replaced the breather hose. This does not seem to have helped at all.

    Today I took it to the Mazda dealer and they said they couldn't figure out anything unless the check engine light was on. It had come on briefly last week, but he said they probably wouldn't be able to read the code since I didn't bring it in immediately. So I have spent close to $1,000 on this problem and still have an engine that skips like an 8 year old girl playing hopscotch.

    Just wondering if anyone else may have run into this problem and what could be done to fix it.

    Thanks for your help!
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Posts: 210
    I would say check and replace the rubber seals on the air intake manifold. probably worn out causing an incorrect air fuel mixture ratio
  • Thanks for the suggestion. My mechanic says those seals were replaced already.
  • jkobty2jkobty2 Posts: 210
    If you ruled out air flow related issues and electrical issues, then the other thing it could be is a bad fuel injector.
  • I have been reading some of the posts on this forum and seeing that there are a LOT of dissatisfied customers that have bought a Mazda 6 2004-2007 model. I too, have an issue with the Mazda that I had bought back in 2007, it was a 2004 Mazda 6 S V6 engine, automatic with a manual stick.

    When I first bought the thing, I was given a 100,000 mile warranty, (car was at 68,000) along with a good rate, etc etc...

    My husband and I drove the car for a year. Took it to the MAZDA DEALERSHIP for routine stuff, oil changes, etc....we bought it in April 2007, the engine blew in April 2008 when the engine hit 103,000 and was told that because it was 3,000 miles over the warranty, Mazda wasn't willing to do anything for us...

    Long story, it's been nearly 4 years now...we are STILL paying on the car (paying until April of next year), have already spent $6,500 ON TOP OF keeping the payments current ($400/month x 6 years = $28,800 that we are paying total on the car itself, but we are 1 year away from that, so we have paid about $24,000 plus an additional $6,500 for the rebuilt engine, parts, labor, etc..), we have driven the car VERY scarecely since 2008 because it's been in 2 mechanics shops, the first shop we took it to charged us $2,400 and we couldn't even drive it out of the shop because the engine was acting up so bad, the second shop we took it to has had it for nearly 3 years, charged an additional $4,000 as we have taken it to them, they do what they can to fix it, tell us to try it and then when we get it, we have it for a week at the most because then it starts acting up again and we have to take it to the mechanics shop to find out what the problem is now....

    About a week ago, we got word that it was FINALLY fixed, except the check engine light was still coming on. We were told that all that was needed was a new gas cap, then to clear the codes and the check engine light should go off. We did all of that, and the check engine light is still the mechanic is stumped...he has taken it to the mazda dealership, who said they could fix it...with the cost of a new engine and another $6,500 and them doing the labor....and I'm fed the time this car is done, we will have paid a total of about $35,000 on it. And that is IF that even fixes the problem, which there's no guarantee...tried the rebuilt engine route $4,000 and the engine is still throwing up the same code that it was throwing up when we had it done 4 years ago....

    Now, the problem is that it is acting up again. It's kind of doing the same exact thing it did the first time, just not as bad. It's missing/skipping/jumping, it has died on me one time the other night, and the mechanic is not sure where to go with it. The mechanic has said that what he believes is that more than likely the previous owner on this car started having these problems with it, changed the ball bearings, cleared the codes then took it to the nearest dealership and traded it in as fast as he could...that this car is a "rich man's car" because it is going to take a lot of expensive work and maintenance to keep it running...he has recommended that I basically do the same thing that the previous owner did, get it in good running condition for the moment, clear all of the codes, then rush it to the nearest dealership to get as much money as I can out of it...

    the problem with that is....that's not me...I see some young couple who is pregnant with their first baby trying to make ends meet seeing this car, thinking "This car looks really nice and for the price, it's a good deal!" (the car has leather seats, bose sound system, sunroof, power EVERYTHING, etc, and is nice and sleek black, nice sporty body kit that I've never seen before on another Mazda, etc) then they get it and all of a sudden they have to spend $10,000 working on it and it breaks down on them and isn't a dependable car to get them from point A to point B....that's what I see happening if I dump it like the previous owner seemed to have done...

    Now, I still owe about $5,000 on the car, one more year, and I still have to keep paying money to fix things here and there (the mechanic feels that maybe the problem this time is the fuel pump, but since there aren't any specific codes for it, it's a trial and error...) I have replaced the engine, the catalytic converters, wiring harness, among other stuff...and now it's acting up again...

    I guess I just need to vent, but if anyone has any ideas, I'm open to listen....I just wanted a dependable car, but I got a lemon that I will just keep having to dump money into until I'm in a position where I can get rid of it and get into another payment of something else. But I will say one thing, it will DEFINITELY not be a Mazda again....that, I'm sure of....
  • des5des5 Posts: 88
    A data point for owners with 4cyl 2.3L engines. My '05 6i didn't start consuming significant amounts of oil until I passed the 100Kmi mark. Now at over 118Kmi, I am seeing loss at about 1.5qt over 5Kmi, which is my change interval with synthetic. I wonder if many owners got used to not having to check the oil levels for the first few years, and then got a nasty surprise (and perhaps a new engine) later on. My advice is check that level every 1Kmi if you've got over 100Kmi on the odo.
  • I'm pretty sure that would be a good point for anyone in that position, check the oil level in the car, but wouldn't it throw up a code if it were burning oil in that way?

    We always kept a good watch on the oil and everything was fine. All the way up until the engine blew, then it's been a nightmare ever since. We were taking it back to the dealership we got it from to do the oil changes and all of that....but mine is a V6 engine, so I don't know if it would have the same type of problems. Hope this helps.
  • Hey, sorry to hear about all the problems with your Mazda. I will look at your car. I'm just north of Toronto.

    This is another case of techs not knowing how to troubleshoot.
  • I really appreciate that you would be willing to help me look at my car. Unfortunately, I'm in Texas and can't get to you that easy.

    I would love to hear your insight as to the possibilities, if you have any. I know without looking at the car, I know it's nearly impossible to diagnose any problems, and if I were close to Toronto, I would DEFINITELY take it to you immediately.

    Thank you, again, you don't know how much I appreciate it. I am leaning toward taking it in for trade, but it really bothers me that someone else may get it and not know what they're getting into, and it leaves them stranded....And again, the car acted up yesterday like it wanted to die...I'm in tears over this whole thing over $5,000 would break my heart to know I did that to dad tells me that the Mazda dealership will take care of what's actually wrong with the car before they put it out on the floor, but they didn't do that for lasted just long enough to get past the warranty, then it just they KNEW something...that car has another engine and is still throwing up codes like it did the first time I ever took it in after it broke down, that some cylinder is mis-firing or something....and I'm being told so many different things, the possibilities, all leading to me spending even more big money on the car (possible fuel pump - $500-700), new chip that is expensive, from what I understand, possible fuel line's endless...

    Again, radar, thank you so much for your offer for help...if I could get to you, I would be ecstatic to get it to you for you to have a look. *HUGS*
  • damiana879, sorry to hear your so far away. Maybe I'll be there golfing sometime. I would love t go to Texas. Lots of golfing and bass fishing.

    Here's the plan:

    1. Find a qualified tech locally (ASE Certified Master Technicians ). Ask friends, call shops. He/she needs to prove to you that they are a master troubleshooter. Ask them what kinds of cars they've own. If they they haven't own and repaired nice cars, then they are the wrong tech.

    2. Then they get only 1 hour ($100) to diagnose all the major problems. If there diagnoses isn't; walk away.

    3. If you want, post there diagnoses here.

    Good luck and have a great weekend.
  • I've been a car guy for 32 years, I'm trained as a Controls Systems Technologist. My job is to find engineering design flaws.

    Engine Oil Starvation (EOS) problems started years ago when cars started to go around corners. I can only speculate that there might be a design flaw with the configuration on the oil sump and pickup nozzle in some of the Mazda 6 motors.

    I've confirmed that the oil pressure sensor is located near the oil pump (which is the standard). If you have little or no oil pressure while running an engine, damage could begin after 1.0 second.


    The red "Low" oil pressure light on your dash toggles on at oil pressure below approx. 5-10psi. It does not measure engine oil volume. I've never seen a system to measure real time oil volume.


    1. While driving your Mazda 6, does you red oil light on the dash come on at anytime during driving?

    2. Does your red oil light on the dash illuminated before you start the car?

    3. Does this happen to Canadian cars? I'm in Canada.

    4. Mazda road race guys, what have you found and change?

    Note: Never run an engine with the "Low" oil pressure light on.

    After Engine Failure:

    1. Go to your local Mazda dealer.

    2. Take part with the Mazda mechanic or have your technical rep be part of the failure analysis. Get into the garage. Video record the entire process.

    3. Turn ignition to "On" several times and check that the oil light on the dash illuminates every time.

    4. Drain the engine oil and measure exactly how much oil was in the engine. About 4L, sorry I don't have the spec.

    5. Filter the old oil and check for metal particles. Save the oil.

    6. Install a oil pressure gauge that has a fast response time near oil pressure sensor to monitor the oil pressure.

    7. Fill motor with new Mazda recommended oil.

    8. Start engine and monitor oil pressure. Should increase to approx. 40psi in less than 1.5 seconds. If pressure is good, then run engine at higher rpms for 5 minutes and watch for low oil pressure. It should not go below 20psi at any time. Could be a failed oil pressure pump.

    9. If the engine is still noisy, then start at the top on the motor and dis-assemble slowly looking for failed parts.

    You might find a small problem, which can easily be fixed and you don't need a new motor.

    Drivers are saying that the "Low" oil pressure light never came "On" before the failure. Which might be true and would require further testing with a good car on a skid pad with high speed pressure monitor. I would like to know if the oil pressure light comes on at max. g force...about 0.6g.

    I never let a store or car dealer work on my stuff in secret.

    If we find from the testing and analysis that the engine does suffer from a design flaw, then we give a copy of the data to Mazda and they should issue a recall.

    Beware that auto racing engineers deal with this problem with every new engine design.

    I hope this helps.

    Mazda...if your reading this, please acknowledge the problem, reimburse your devoted customers and fixed the problem, because I know you know. It would be awful if this made in on National TV.

  • racefanf1racefanf1 Posts: 36
    edited February 2012

    I’m the originator of this “Mazda 6 Engine Problems” link. I have been collecting and collating statistical data for two years now. I’ve had 7 Mazdas with no problems until now but no more Mazdas ever for me. EVER!!!
    It’s refreshing to have another technical person give their opinions on this issue.
    I’m an Engineer, a Mechanic, a Race Car Driver and, more importantly, a Six Sigma Senior Quality Assurance Engineer with extensive background in Failure Mode Annalysis.
    My Mazda 6 failed with instantaneous oil cavation like you suggest. No warning lights or time to pull over and shut it off. Engine ruined. I bought the car new it had 11,000 miles and I’d performed more oil changes than the warranty book required. I had it towed to Dworkin Mazda where I proved my oil changes. They never, took it apart to detect a Failure Mode or did a Root Cause Analysis before refusing warranty service. They treated me like crap. They pointed me to call Mazda USA where I was refused warranty repair stating my oil and filter receipts did not list the VIN number of the car which the oil and filters were purchased for. We call these “Weissel Words”. Anything to get out of the warranty costs. Customer Service people at Mazda USA have no last names like you’re calling a 900 porn service.
    One Service Writer at Dworkin Mazda met me outside where they pointed out 4 or 5 other cars which also needed engines and stated Dworkin Mazda screws everyone on these problems and is proud of they warranty refusal rates.
    No Mazda Factory Representatives are available to help. Dworkin merely sends their findings, true or false, to Mazda USA where they follow the dealers lead.
    On my link you will find a former Mazda service Manager who confirms Mazda went from a great company, willing to help where ever needed, to a company willing to do anything to get out of paying for legitimate warranty claims.
    By the way, I replaced the engine in my Mazda 6 only to have to fail exactly the same way at 20,000 miles. Engine number 3 has 70,000 miles on it now and is okay so far.
    Keep me posted Wayne I need all the data I can gather. Thanks, Richard
  • mike2makmike2mak Posts: 1
    we own a 2009 Mazda Tribute, purchased new. it has had an engine replaced every year (on warranty) since new, usually february-march. this year, same thing, tickticktickticktick when you start it in the cold (-10 celcius or more). News flash, warranty isnt going to cover this 3rd replacement because the engine oil was changed 7 months/ 6,000km after the last "new" engine was installed. Apparently, you have to put that 4 month date in your calender/smart phone, and stop looking at that km's on that stupid little sticker they put on the window, because if its over 4 months, even if you only drove it once or twice to the grocery store, forget warranty. Even more interesting is the fact that engine #2 popped 1 month after a factory oil change !!
    Mazda's are crap! dont buy one.
    The only reason we were suckered into buying this was because the wifes last 2007 Mazda 3 had no hot water circulation through the heater core unless the engine was above 1200 rpm. So, basically, if you live where its cold like we do, and you stop at a red light in the winter, all you would get was cold air blowing into the cab. The hero's in the Mazda shop here could not fix it. Don't waste your money on these, they are junk.
  • Hi, I bought my 2001 Mazda6 brand new. Never had any problems until about a year ago. It started to flutter while decelerating, around 35-40 mph. Seemed almost like it was gonna stall. My mechanic tried several fixes including spark plugs, fuel filter, air filter, cylinoid and others. He kept getting the same error message when diagnosing: cylinder 4 misfire. In the end, he ended up wiping the computer and resetting it. It fixed the problem for a long time, but my check engine light is coming on again - sometimes flashing, stays on for a day, goes off for a week - never consistent. I took it back in yesterday and it's the same error message. I'm taking it in tomorrow to reset the computer again. Hopefully that's all it needs. Cheap fix compared to your nightmare. I'd get a new car, but I really love this car and haven't found one yet that drives as well...
  • ericzoomericzoom Posts: 213
    I believe the 1st model year for the Mazda6 was 2003.
    I would take the car to Autozone or AAP, and have them read the code to find out what's setting it off. Then find another mechanic, or you may have to go to the stealership service for your issue.
  • twtebrdtwtebrd Posts: 1
    Hi there, I am so glad that I found this website as we just bought a new used 2011 Mazda6 in Oct/ Nov and I am finding all kinds of things in here about Mazda 6s engines. Yesterday my husband ran over what he thought was a metal object and it blew out his back tire. It was dark,after changing the tire he checked under the car and everything seemed fine so re drove on his merry way. He said it sounded funny but no sensor or indicator lights on the dash panel were lit up so he kept driving it and a couple hours later it just died. When he was talking to the tow truck driver about it he said he smelled something sweet when they were loading it up. My husband asked him about the warning lights and the guy said none would go come on because it wouldnt register it. This makes no sense to me as I am almost certain that at least one or more indicator lights should have gone off to alert there was a problem right when the engine knew it was low on fluids. I remembered my husband telling me that a chp was behind him and when he was changing the tire he pulled up and said I found what you ran over and removed it from the freeway. Hubby just saw a flash of something that appeared metal by that time it was already under the car. I called up the chp yesterday afternoon and tracked down the chp files for it and found out what it was he ran over, a steel bumper that had fallen off someones vehicle. This is so horrible and could have been prevented had warning lights gone on like they are suppose to. We are just very grateful that he is ok because it was dark, and he was going on the freeway in the fast lane and had his front tire gotten it it would have been way worse. Now the dealership said it needs a new engine and radiator and I am praying they dont total loss it. I was hoping you could let me know why the indicator lights dont work in that situation and also how much we are looking at cost wise for a new engine from a dealership. It is the 4cyl 4 door with dual exhaust. We have full coverage insurance and also under warranty still with an extended warranty and gap insurance. I would greatly appreciate your comments to this. Thank you so much,
  • Since your husband hit something in the highway IMHO this would not be covered under warrenty but insurance. I have no answer for your warning light question. The dealer/mechanic would have to provide that answer. Your insurance would let you know if this is a covered item.
  • aim9xaim9x Posts: 1
    edited June 2012
    I bought a 2004 Mazda6 3.0L new in Feb. 2004. My car has over 135,000 miles on it, and it
    still has the original engine. I have always changed the oil with a high quality, full synthetic oil, about every 3,000-4,500 miles. While I agree that, with full synthetic
    oils, you can wait a little bit longer, I always want clean oil. It baffles me that individuals are experiencing problems with their 3.0L engines.

    And I live in the Mojave desert, folks (I work at NASA). This is a windy, hot, dusty part of the country.

    1. Make sure you are using 5W-20, and do NOT use any other weight. Engineers chose this viscosity based on multiple factors (expected operating temperatures, engine block material selection, and, most importantly, crankshaft journal minimum oil film thickness). I have personally seen 3.0L engines last for over 200,000 miles when changed with nothing but full synthetic oils.

    2. Read the Owner's Manual. It contains lots of important information that is easily missed if you "just throw it aside." Read the manual before listening to anyone tell you about when you need to service a particular part. If you go to a Jiffy Lube (or anywhere, for that matter) and are told that the "manufacturer recommends [insert nonsense here]" you will know the truth if you have read the manual. These guys are usually just trying to make an extra buck.

    3. If your car already had DexCool in it, stick with it. The anti-corrosive additives it contains
    helps, especially for all-aluminum engines. If you want to use the green antifreeze and you were using DexCool, just make sure you completely flush out the cooling system before replacing it. Never mix DexCool with standard (green) antifreeze unless it is Prestone's extended life coolant, which is also green, but can mix with any coolant.

    4. Don't hot-rod your Mazda. They aren't designed to be race cars; they are designed for ordinary wheeled transportation. If you rev the engine and run it like a bat out of hell, you can expect a shorter engine life. If I were to design a race car engine, I would design the engine to have a dry sump lubrication system that could handle just about any orientation and acceleration. I would also choose much stronger materials for the hard working parts of the engine, and I would probably NOT implement an overhead cam design.

    5. If you hear knocking, that is probably detonation. Make sure you are not using fuel that contains more than 10% ethanol (again, this is in the manual). Stick with the fuel in the manual. Do NOT use E-85. In fact, I would stay away from any ethanol-based fuel. I just put in regular ol' 87, and it has worked without fail. When changing spark plugs, use the iridium plugs that last for over 100,000 miles. Make sure they have the specified gap. Do not re-use spark plugs and do not attempt to "close the gap" on used plugs. If you have the V6, you will have to remove the intake plenum, which involves disconnecting a few hoses and electrical connectors (hint: digital camera); however, this is, overall, pretty darn easy to do. Do not add "fuel system cleaning" additives or accept a "fuel injector cleaner" service at a shop. If you want to clean your injectors, you should do your homework on what will work for your particular engine configuration. You can also remove the injectors from the fuel manifold/rail and clean them by hand (and replace the fuel filter while you're at it). You also might as well remove the throttle body and clean it out with brake cleaner while you're at it (it's right there; just do it).

    6. PCV systems get clogged because sludge builds up within the valve, causing it to stick. Again, if you choose a synthetic oil and change it regularly, this will never be a problem.

    7. NEVER do an "engine flush" if ever offered. These are nothing but a rip-off and, at worst,
    will destroy your engine.

    8. If you live in California, do your own maintenance unless you want to be scammed. Jiffy Lube, Wal-Mart, and dealers are scamming everyone. They charge for a job, and they don't do it -- Google this if you want more info (yes, this includes oil changes). Find a reputable local mechanic who does honest work. For fluid changes, etc., choose a repair shop that will allow you to watch the work as it gets done, such as Valvoline Instant Oil Change.

    so: stick with a high quality full synthetic oil, read the manual and stick with the appropriate maintenance schedule (most of us should choose the "severe driving conditions" schedule), never use fuel containing ethanol, never add anything other than unleaded gasoline to the fuel tank (unless otherwise specified by the manufacturer), and don't drive your car like a bat out of hell.
  • cjhimselfcjhimself Posts: 3
    I have a 2005 Mazda6, V6 wagon, which we love. We had the transmission replaced under warranty at 36000 kms. The Mazda service was impeccable and we have talked about it ever since. At 119000 kms we blew the engine. A rod bearing actually broke into chunks (!!) Mazda Canada says that you are over the warranty, so go away, we won't help. Even when we point out that bearings do not break into little pieces and the engine had always been serviced properly, they will accept no responsibility. We are left with an $8500 bill for a new engine in a car that is only worth $10,000.
  • I have a 2008 Mazda 6i Sport Value Edition that I purchased used with 10,000 miles in December 2008. This car has been towed to the MAZDA dealership over a half a dozen times because it would randomly not start. Almost always the car would fire right up and not duplicate the problem. The dealer replaced fuel pumps, wiring harnesses, and 5 pin connectors after talking with the factory. The problems subsided for a while but has now returned and now the vehicle cuts off while driving. Has anyone else experienced this? Any help or guidance in getting MAZDA to fix and address this situation is appreciated.
  • I have a 2005 Mazda 6s 6-speed manual. I have 90k miles on it. I recently had it in for service and they replaced a bad coil-pack and all my spark plugs. I've had it for about a week. It ran great! THEN- yesterday I started up the car and noticed a weird ticking sound behind the dash and observed that my trip odometer had been reset as well as all of my radio presets. I drove it to the store and shut it off, tried to lock my car and noticed that my car had no power whatsoever. I was able to get it started again, drove it back to my house and tried to replicate the problem with no luck. Then in the evening my wife and I were going out to dinner. Made it about a mile away from the house and while driving, the engine sputtered, all the lights and dash went hay-wire, lost all power then it randomly came back on. Luckily, we weren't on a highway because 10 seconds later, the car did it again, and completely shut off, no power anywhere. We pulled over and rolled to a stop. The car had no power going to it anywhere, no lights, nothing. This is extremely unsettling because had we been on a highway, we would not have any hazard lights to turn on and without power steering, who knows if I would have lost control had I been in the middle of a turn. I called the towing company, and a friend was on the way to pick up my wife. I checked the fuses and didn't see any blown, I popped the hood and checked the battery cables, which were not loose. Just as our friend got there to pick up my wife I noticed my map lights turn back on in the car. I was able to start the car back up and drive it back to the house. Much like you I have not found any answers on-line to the problem, just similar questions. To sum up my problem:

    1. Car loses all power, engine shuts off.
    2. No check engine lights or other warning lights remain on.
    3. I don't believe it's the battery or alternator given car will start back up.
    4. No fuses blown
    5. Car was not under high RPM's when it happened. A/C was on, radio was on and headlights were on.
    6. Unable to consistently replicate the problem.
    7. Could it be bad wiring, given the sporadic and inconsistent nature of the problem?

    Hopefully this post will help you feel a little better knowing you're not alone. Unfortunately I have no answers. I don't even want to take the chance driving my car to the shop because it is a safety hazard.
  • mlm99mlm99 Posts: 1
    In response to the PCV Valve, can anyone explain in detail how to change.
  • I have a 2004 Mazda 6 with almost 118,000 miles and I love the car. In the past couple of days when I put the car in reverse, there is a rattling sound, as if a chain is being dragged. The sound is not there when driving so I am not sure if this is anything to really worry about.
  • Wow this is really crazy. I was reading this earlier and saw all the posts. I bought my 2007 Mazda 6 new and my engine just went out at 106000 miles. I went to a dealership here outside of Atlanta, GA for a oil change, the service adviser told me I needed a coolant and transmission flush. They did it and then I get my car back and the engine goes out on 9/17 at 8:45 PM. I am on the phone with Mazda now and they are like oh well since my car is out of warranty by 45000 miles and there arent any recalls on the engine. There techs were the last ones who touched my Mazda. My dad has a 2008 Mazda 6 and he just had to get his engine repaired earlier this year. I refuse to pay Mazda $8000 for a used engine with 87000 miles on it. I only owe $4500 on my car if that since I refinanced it in 2009. I was looking at getting a Mazda CX9 since I need more space for my kids. MAZDA WILL NEVER GET ANYMORE OF MY BUSINESS AND I WILL KEEP GOING AND TELLING EVERYONE. MAZDA WILL NEVER GET ANYMORE BUSINESS AND GO OUT OF BUSINESS. :mad:
  • Tell the world, man!! My engine went at about 70,000 miles and Mazda just laughed. I have told hundreds of people and know that I saved several from buying a Mazda. Spreading the word helps!!!
  • Hey All,

    I hope someone can help me with my weird mazda issue.

    I have a 2005 Mazda 6 and within the past couple of months, when I drive on the highway the car will start sputtering, the gear light only on the dash goes off (all the other lights stay on) and the car loses power. This will only last for a couple of seconds and then go back to full power, but while this is happening I feel like the car is going to cut off.

    I have taken it to my mechanic and he said when he hooks it up to the machine no codes come on and he doesn't know what is wrong with it he would have to be in it when it happens. The thing is it doesn't happen all the time. I could happen 1x a week or 4x's a week, it's very random.

    If anyone else has had this problem like this and has a solution I would SOOOOOO appreciate the help.

    Thanks in advance for any help.
  • I have a 2003 Mazda 6, back in August the car felt like it just died, the engine was still running though and there was an "AT" lit up the dash, then I pulled into my drive but when I pushed on the brakes the car surged forward and I had to slam it into park to get it to stop. 30 minutes later it started no lights lit on the dash and I drove it to my mechanic. He checked it out put it on the computer or whatever and he couldn't find any error codes or anything wrong it, he even took it to a transmission specialist. The car has been working since then except there is surging / lagging at times when I am going slow. Then yesterday the same issue "A T" on the dash, loss of power pulled into a parking slot stepped on brake and I almost jumped the curb when it surged. Slammed it in park and there is sits. Freaky man, scares the crap out of me and my teenager drives it and I am afraid of what may happen.

    I bought this car in 2003 and just love this car, but why can't the mechanics find out whats wrong???

    Sorry couldn't help you!
  • I too have a 2003 Mazda 6s with the v6 engine and automatic 5 speed. I'm curious when was the last time you have changed the transmission fluid. When you describe the surging/lagging when going slow is exactly how our car operates when it is time to change the fluid. We've been changing the fluid depending on our driving and where we lived betweent 30k and 50k miles. Now we're in the DC area we have been changing it every 30k miles.

    Strange as this may also sound, when Jiffy Lube punctured our air intake, this made our engine run hot and missfire a bit. Believe it or not the engine being out of tune to a point like this also made the transmission do weird things like surging and lagging.

    It is scary because it makes our wheels chirp on first and second speeds when it shifts into them. But once we started changing the trans fluid and made sure the engine is always running properly, we haven't had the issue.

    Never had the AT code come up on us though, strange the dealer couldn't find anything wrong with it when the code obviously came up for you.
  • Hi there!! I am not sure if you have fixed the problem since posting this but i own a 04 mazda 6 and was having the same problem with it for about a year! When i was stopped at a red light the car would just sit there and jump like it was struggling to stay on. Also the check engine light would come on and off constantly. When i would get the light checked it would shoot the same message that yours did. After all of this, my father tried replacing all 6 of the fuel injectors. This completely fixed the jumping and check engine light! I have not had a problem with it, well with this set of problems, since! Hope this helps!
  • the first thing i would check are all power wires going to and from the battery, alternator, and starter to make sure they were tight. loose wires can cause this exact problem( especially with the flickering ) newer vehicles require two battery wires to the battery if they come loose or become corroded the vehicle will lose all power if it is running or not. hope this helps ....
  • jbahjbah Posts: 23
  • When your Mazda 6 is using oil you must change the PCV valve. The PCV valve is not on Mazda's service schedule to ever change or inspect! :mad:
    When a vehicle uses oil it will clog up the catalytic converter and then bits from the catalytic converter will re-enter your engine via the EGR system causing engine failure. I actually have 2 PCV valves in line on my 2006 3.0 ltr Mazda 6.
    Spark plugs must be changed @ 65,000 miles, change ign coils at 100,000 miles. Changed your auto tranny fluid every 35,000 miles. ">
  • I have a 2005 Mazda 6 4cy 5-speed manual that did the exact same thing. My warranty ran out at 75,000 miles and I had 75,627 miles when i took it to the shop. The warranty company wasn't going to cover anything at first, but i supplied them with my oil change records since i bought the vehicle in Oct 2010. i recieved all the oil changes at the dealership so the warranty company gave me a 3,000 credit towards the purchase of a new engine. The repair shop stated the transmission had been replaced at some point and time, causing damage to the clutch, fly wheel, discs, and bolts. from reading other posts it sounds like the transmissions blow up first. The repair women stated the same problems as well, jumping time, cracked pistons, dry pistons, and lack of lubrication. i wish there was something they we could do to get some of our money back. i wont buy another mazda again.
  • Same problem here, 91,000 miles. Oil light flashed for a second and then it started making bad noises. Dealer says it needs a new engine. Extended warranty should cover up to 120,000 miles but they are not because of gaps in maintenance record. The mechanic took apart the engine and does not see any signs of poor maintenance. I am seeking legal counsel in the Chicago area right now.
  • I just swapped the engine in my 2005 Mazda 6 3.0L with an engine out of a 2006 Mazda 6. The newer engine came out of a wrecked car so I couldnt test it before removing it. Now the swap is complete but I am having problems with the installed engine being sluggish. I know the ecu's are different, does that have anything to do with the engine being sluggish? It just doesnt seem to have any power past 20mph and when its in park and you give it gas, the engine wants to die out. Any suggestions?
  • louk703louk703 Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Mazda 6I with a 2.3 liter engine in it and I was driving down the highway at 55mph with the cruse on and the next thing I knew was it sounded like I had ran over something in the right side front are and then it did that again and the next thing that I knew was that I had lost power to the engine and now when I try to start it it just turns over with no fire. I pulled the valve cover off to check the timing chain and that's not the problem. Any suggestions?
Sign In or Register to comment.