It's the chemical makeup of the contents of the egg - I think it's acidic, IIRC. Do a google - the web is full of links on this very topic. This one is my favorite:
I have a 92 Accord, that is not shifting automatically; it will shift manually, but if I go down to D1 or D2, the D4 indicator stays lit. If I start out in D4, there is no power obviously because it's stuck in D4 Reverse works properly(D4 stays lit as well as R). I think it's an electrical/component issue, and I'ld really appreciate some feedback.
I have a 99 Accord. I'm going on a road trip and decided to check all my fluids levels. I noticed that my brake fluid is near the minium level. I want to top this level off to maxium level. Is it a must I exclusively use Honda brake dot 3 or can use any good quality brake fluid from a auto parts?
Before you top of the brake fluid, have your mechanic check for brake pad wear. As the pads wear, the fluid level will drop, so you may be near a brake job. Best to have things checked before lighting out on a long trip. As far as brake fluid is concerned, "DOT" is a Federal standard - in other words, if it's DOT 3 rated, it really doesn't matter what brand you use. (though if you buy genuine Honda-labled brake fluid that act of brand loyalty contrition will make you the **ealership parts department's newest best friend - leastways until you're out of sight again...) Also keep in mind that the price difference between DOT 3 and DOT 4 is only about a buck for an 8 oz container. DOT 4 has a higher dry and wet boiling point (always a good thing) and is compatible with DOT 3 and your brake system components as top up fluid. (In fact, if you need new pads, have your guy flush the entire system with DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 while he's at it, but STAY FAR AWAY FROM DOT 5!)
I'm new to this site and need some help. Every time I depress the clutch pedal, at around the threshold point, it makes a weird noise. Its kind of hard to describe the sound of the noise, but its like a tiny squeak. I checked the transmission fluid, checked to see if the clutch is slipping and nothing seems wrong except for this noise. It has only started today and the car is only a year old. Do you guys have any suggestions as to what is wrong with the clutch pedal and what is making that noise? Any help is appreciated. Thanks
If you mean it KEEPS squeeking as long as you hold down the pedal, then you probably have a worn or dry clutch throw out bearing. If it just squeeks once as you press down, that might be very minor.
Took a second look and realized I was looking at the power steering reservoir, fortunately I didn't use brake fluid to level off...came close though. But I want to thank you for your tip as to why the brake fluid may be low because of brake pad wear. The last time I had my 2001 Pathfinder serviced, the Nissan dealer said the front pads were at about 20% left. This leads me to believe it's time to have the pads replaced, because recently the brake reservoir indicated it was approaching near the minimum mark. I guess the service tech wasn't yanking my chain after all.
The tiny squeek your hearing may just be the pedal itself squeeking. Like any other pedal, it has a pivot point, and the bearing surface may be what is making the noise.
It does just squeak once as you press down. Should I have it checked or is it not even worth being worried about? Thanks for the information, I appreciate it.
I dont know much about transmissions, but will this affect my transmission or gears? Should I be concerned or is it just some normal wear and tear? Thanks for the information, I appreciate it.
My popping creaking noise where the headliner meets the windsheild.It sort of flimsy there.It was definitly the culprit.I pushed it in a couple of times and it went away.It was on the drivers side.I have a 2005 Honda Accord Ex V-6.Can anyone tell me the correct opening height that the automatic trunk lid should go to.I,ve sent cars that ,open all the way. My opens and thats it. I have to hand lift it the rest of the way.Also my steering wheel controls do not control the Xm radio.Is this a flaw ?
I agree with the host, it's an annoyance, but will do no damage. Think of the part that is squeaking like a door hinge, one part pivots by another, and when the oil dries out, it squeaks. My old Mazda p/u did the same thing, and once a year I would give it a shot of WD40.
Next time you have you car serviced, if it still squeaks, they can add some lube to quiet it down.
I have a 2005 Accord and had/have the same problem. It kept on getting worse and the service guys told me that all the Accords do this. Well I didn't believe them, and made them pull out a new 2005 Accord with a manual. Of course, the clutch was smooth as butter. The first time around they just lubed my clutch - but that only worked for a week. Finally, they replaced my master cylinder and said that it had gone bed. Mind you ... I had less than 2000 miles on this car. Well, three months later, a new master cylinder, and the noise hase started again. I think Honda either has some quality problems with the clutch components, or possibly a design flaw. Whatever you find out, please let me know, as I am fighting the same battle as you.
Squeaky clutch pedal pivot bushings, though annoying, are harmless, and decidedly NOT confined to Hondas nor indicative of poor quality materials. (Ask recent BMW 3 Series owners.). WD-40 probably won't stay put well enough to be effective very long. A multi-purpose aerosol spray white lithium grease product would be more appropriate. (put some plastic sheeting on the flooring under the clutch pedal to catch any drips unless you like the idea of grease-stained carpeting) The included red plastic tube nozzle insert will let you direct the flow right onto the pivit point. Once applied, a couple of immediate full presses of the pedal will distribute the stuff into the bushing area. Once the carrier solvent evaporates off, the squeak should be history for quite a while since a viscous grease is what remains behind right at the point of friction. I picked up a 12.5 oz. can of the stuff at AutoZone for about $2.00.
Alright im back, i got the water pump changed and the timing belt changed. It wans't overheating, it was running fine. I also got my exhaust fixed all the way to the cat, I kept the resinator so it wasn't to loud. I was on the highway in some traffic and it started o.e.ing again, i turned the heat on full blast and it did the trick for a minute. Traffic let up and as long as I was movin around 40-50 mph it wasn't over heating. I had mentioned previously my fans werent working. After i changed the water pump they were both working fine. They would go on after i turn the car off too though... should it do that.? I got through the trip and the car was ok for a couple of days. all the sudden im getting a strong vibration while im slowing down and coming to a stop. The car has now stalled out. It stalled when i was going to park, I stop, and it stalled. I tried it up and it was dropping and going off, unless i really gave it about 25-30k rpms. there was alot of smoke coming out when i got it going and it overheated over redline. I dont know what it could be. I had to put about a half a jug of antifreeze before this last time whenit stalled. The thing is it really doesnt steam from the radiator and the fluid is bright green, im pretty sure it isnt mixing with the oil.
My local Honda dealer wants to charge me $35.00 to adjust my headlights. However, they cannot tell me why the headlights are not in the correct alignment but just says "it happens" and that they need periodic adjustment. Are they snowing me and how labor intensive is a headlight adjustment? If I get the headlights adjusted, how often should they be readjusted? Any help appreciated...
I have an '05 EX-V6 as well. My trunklid (no spoiler) does not open all the way when released, it merely pops open an inch or two. I know that the trunklid "springs" can be adjusted to compensate for a spoiler being mounted, and I would imagine that they can be adjusted to pop the lid all the way open if you wanted.
Regarding the steering wheel radio controls, as with FM and AM, you can only change the XM presets from the wheel. You cannot scroll through all of the channels.
What year is your car? If it's a '98-'02, the part you want to replace is a light bulb and not a battery. The procedure is very easy to accomplish. I don't have the procedure in front of me, but if you do a Google search you should turn it up. You pop the clock out of the dash using a screwdriver, take out eh old bulb and put in the new one, which costs about $2 from the dealer.
Thanks and thanks to this website for being able to retrieve info that quickly. I am experiencing an idling that seems irregular. can,t really say its the idling.It almost seems as if it missses.It runs excellent on the road but it feels like a rough idle while in drive and is just a little bit better in park but still noticable.I,m hoping it is a minor adjustment.
I think the adjustment on the springs is minimal, and may not be enough to do what you want. the install literature for spoilers shows a replacement of springs, not just an adjustment.
I do recall looking at the setup months ago, and the springs have only a few notches for adjustment, which is probably there for tweaking the lid during assembly.
You might not want to have the lid open up all the way on it's own since it appears not to be designed that way. If it flies up too quickly, it may cause some type of damage after many cycles.
"the next thing they will recommend is having your muffler bearings rebuilt"
Geesh, what a maroon! Everyone knows muffler bearings are sealed for life and have to be replaced - which is generally done as a matter of course during a headlight aim adjustment . . .
Is the vibration during coast-down accompanied by exhaust smoke - white? If so, that suggests coolant is being drawn into one, maybe more, cylinders. Check for a blown head gasket. A cracked block or head could also give the same symptoms. Aluminum engines do not tolerate continued operation when overheated. And, then again, maybe it's something entirely unrelated.
(By the way, Hondas of your car's vintage (and perhaps current models, too) had/(have) their radiator fan relays wired directly to the unswitched "hot" side of the electrical circuit. The fans can and do come on when the engine is shut off if the engine's still warm enough, or temporarily spikes warm enough after shut off, to "trip" the thermostatic switch that activates the fans.)
Forgot to add before the Edmunds forum's arbitrary time limit to edit kicked in, that for a car 4 or 5 years old, maybe the car's suspension system (springs and bushings) have "settled" just enough to throw the headlight aim out of specification, now.
2003 Honda 6cyl.4door- Just had the first major at around 44,000 miles. I am getting a very high but quiet wineing sound that changes with the gear changes. Both my wife and I hear the sound but when I took it
If the engine is shut off, the fan shouldn't come on unless the key is in ignition position.
My take is your head gasket around the coolant gallery is leaking which allows the coolant gets into the piston. That's why you saw white smoke at the tailpipe. If any one of the pistons is not firing, you experience engine vibration. The oil hasn't got into the coolant because the gasket around the oil gallery hasn't leaked yet. It's time to replace the head gasket.
The only "real" bug I had upon delivery of my 05 Accord EX-L was the misaiming of the driver's low beam. To reaim the headlights the mechanic, or you, has to drop the inner fender wells from the wheel side and disassemble some panels inside the motor compartment for the low beams. Since Honda repairpersons are like the legendary Maytag repairman, their repairs and installation prices are somewhat high! The dealer did not charge me anything.
You haven't lived until you run into a bunch of people compaling about water in the trunk...they didn't latch the trunk when yhey took in the groceries, etc and you cannot believe how irate they were. the opening allows the trunk to stay dry if you leave the trunk open and leave the car!
Most cars operate that way. I've never noticed a car that opened more than an inch or two. My 05 ex-v6 has a spoiler and only opens a little bit. When I test drove it (with no spoiler), the trunk only opened a little bit also. Like an inch or two. I like it this way since if its raining and I want to throw something in, the trunk doesnt get flooded. Also in case you accidentally hit the button, it won't be as noticeable that the trunk is open.
My XM and fm/am work through the steering wheel controls. You need to setup the pre-set stations. Then cycle through it to find the station you want. I've become XM addicted by the way. Why don't you read the manual. Its very easy to figure out.
I'm hoping someone can tell me if these might all be related or a way to focus my efforts before i have the whole car (94 accord ex) diagnosed.
at first the d4 light started flashing and check engine light came on. then speedometer stopped working. might have all happened at once...i was stuck in traffic so i couldn't tell. figured it was the speed sensor and was hoping to ignore it until i could afford to get it fixed.
a couple days later i couldn't get out of park without using the shift lock release. seems to drive fine but none of the gauges or indicator lights work. the power windows and clock aren't working either. when i open my door it starts beeping like when you leave the lights on. the break lights do work fortunately.
i checked all the fuses and #1 (interior fuse box) was blown. manual says 'back up lights/meter lights'. i replaced it but as soon as i started the car it blew again. i don't even have to put my foot on the brake or try to shift before it blows.
is there a way to unplug the gauge cluster without taking the dash apart to see if it's causing a short? how could this affect the shift lock? not sure how to tell if they're different issues or the same. since the brake lights work can i rule out the brake switch? only thing else i can think of is speed sensor (original problem) or maybe shift lock solenoid.
The clutch master cyl. on our 92 Accord wasn't changed until it had 120K on it. It had developed a small leak which is normal on any clutch cy. with age.
I'd bring it in for an inspection to document the dealer's findings and comments for future possible action. Also, if you've not had the "oil jet kit" retrofit done, have dealer install it if it still matters (sorry for pessimistic tone).
If and when your transmission does fail, and dealer noted something like "normal operating state" on the work order, there'd be strong grounds for a future goodwill repair.
Even if it has to be replaced now, and the kit hadn't been installed, imo you still have a case for goodwill repair because the transmission was under-engineered to start with.
With the V6 Accord's abnormal transmission failure rate, one can't be too careful.
I too own a 1992 honda accord and have had the main relay replaced. Soon after I found out I was using a shoddy mechanic. Is it possible to not install this properly. This was in august 05 i had it replaced, as of yesterday 10/05/2005 the car stalled, I went into the store and it started within about 10-20 mins. my question is this, could it be the ignitor is now shot, becuase about a 1.5 years ago i had the distributor replaced but not the ignitor bacause it broke down when i was on a trip and it would have added another $100 to the job. pls email me some advice!
:confuse: :confuse: After reading the replys and posts regarding this I went back to my manual and properly installed the preset channels .I now have control on mt steering column.I enjoy this feature tremendously .Thanks to all
I just received a failure for high speed NOX emissions on a 1994 accord LX 2.2L. Low speed well within limits. No check engine light or any other obvious signs of trouble. Car has 140K on it but runs fine. Not sure what to look at for possible source of problem.
NOx emissions are the result of elevated combustion temperatures. The likely culprit is something with the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) system. This system lowers the combustion temperature by recirculating some inert exaust gas through the combustion chamber. It could be as simple as a faulty EGR valve.
Hi, Just want to know the exact position to put the string in. Is it where the thin top edge of the glass window hit when closed? My understanding is that the cross-section of the run channel is an inverted U, and it is the top of the inverted U, NOT the two sides. Is it the foam tape (weather stripping, foam with sticky tape at the back) that you used? I have enough with this too in my 2004 . Thanks a lot . TTB
if you get it fixed, please post what the cause was. i've been dealing with the same thing for over a year. each place claims to know the cause and none of it helps. nox numbers are exactly the same. i have the same car as you too. had the converter replaced twice. combustion chamber cleaned. general tune up. egr valve tested and told it's ok. only thing i haven't replaced is the oxygen sensor but i was told that isn't the issue. dealer tried to say the aftermarket converters weren't big enough and needed to use a honda part. too bad it's about $800. $1100 with labor. i didn't believe him... but i'm still not passing so who knows. good luck.
I couldn't stand the creeks and rattles anymore and traded it in. Too me this is totally ridiculous for a new car. Honda has to stop putting in all those cheap plastic interior pieces and start upgrading their interiors. This seems to big a major issue with all the new Hondas.
I have the same problem with my daughters 95 Accord LX. What I did discover is a very small leak on the back of the right side of the engine facing the firewall. As long as there is coolant in the radiator and the reservoir it only drips , but if air get sin it runs very fast. By puting my hand back there it feels like a small round hole and maybe something is missing - or is it a safety release. I'm looking for help in this matter also.
You warranty trade in or did you trade it at the dealership for another car (did you take a loss on money)? I'm actually having the same issues with the right front passenger side. It rattles and creaks and drives me nuts. The dealership is very slow to order parts and have me come back in to fix the problems. I'm hoping that with these new parts it will make a difference.
Correct. It's the top edge of the glass window pressing against the rectangular poly foam string when closed. The length goes from the side mirror to the upper corner.
The one I used doesn't have stick tape on the back. Don't use tape or glue when you put the foam inside the run channel. In case you make a mistake cutting the string too narrow/thin, you can take it out easily.
Sounds like a leak at the water pump. If the timing belt hasn't been changed, it's time to do a complete timing belt job (all belts, water pump, and oil seals). Call a couple dealers to give your the estimates. The difference could be in a hundred dealer from dealer.
Thanks for the responses. The dealer could not explain why the headlights needed aligned. They said it is about 1/2 hour labor to straighten them out. Since they could not explain why the headlights are out of alignment they decided not to charge me the $35.00 after all and basically fixed them for free. Also, when I brought it back in for the headlight alignment, they said my muffler bearings are going bad. Thankfully, they are covered under extended warranty. I'm told they are quite expensive to replace.
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I'm new to this site and need some help. Every time I depress the clutch pedal, at around the threshold point, it makes a weird noise. Its kind of hard to describe the sound of the noise, but its like a tiny squeak. I checked the transmission fluid, checked to see if the clutch is slipping and nothing seems wrong except for this noise. It has only started today and the car is only a year old. Do you guys have any suggestions as to what is wrong with the clutch pedal and what is making that noise? Any help is appreciated. Thanks
Mrbill
Thanks for the information, I appreciate it.
Next time you have you car serviced, if it still squeaks, they can add some lube to quiet it down.
Mrbill
Rod
I had mentioned previously my fans werent working. After i changed the water pump they were both working fine. They would go on after i turn the car off too though... should it do that.?
I got through the trip and the car was ok for a couple of days. all the sudden im getting a strong vibration while im slowing down and coming to a stop. The car has now stalled out. It stalled when i was going to park, I stop, and it stalled. I tried it up and it was dropping and going off, unless i really gave it about 25-30k rpms. there was alot of smoke coming out when i got it going and it overheated over redline.
I dont know what it could be. I had to put about a half a jug of antifreeze before this last time whenit stalled. The thing is it really doesnt steam from the radiator and the fluid is bright green, im pretty sure it isnt mixing with the oil.
Any Suggestions...
Regarding the steering wheel radio controls, as with FM and AM, you can only change the XM presets from the wheel. You cannot scroll through all of the channels.
Clocks run off the car battery.
Mrbill
Sounds like a snow job to me!!!
Why do you say they need adjustment? Something the dealer just recommended?
Watch out, the next thing they will recommend is having your muffler bearings rebuilt.
Mrbill
I do recall looking at the setup months ago, and the springs have only a few notches for adjustment, which is probably there for tweaking the lid during assembly.
You might not want to have the lid open up all the way on it's own since it appears not to be designed that way. If it flies up too quickly, it may cause some type of damage after many cycles.
Mrbill
Geesh, what a maroon! Everyone knows muffler bearings are sealed for life and have to be replaced - which is generally done as a matter of course during a headlight aim adjustment . . .
(By the way, Hondas of your car's vintage (and perhaps current models, too) had/(have) their radiator fan relays wired directly to the unswitched "hot" side of the electrical circuit. The fans can and do come on when the engine is shut off if the engine's still warm enough, or temporarily spikes warm enough after shut off, to "trip" the thermostatic switch that activates the fans.)
Any suggestions????
My take is your head gasket around the coolant gallery is leaking which allows the coolant gets into the piston. That's why you saw white smoke at the tailpipe. If any one of the pistons is not firing, you experience engine vibration.
The oil hasn't got into the coolant because the gasket around the oil gallery hasn't leaked yet.
It's time to replace the head gasket.
My XM and fm/am work through the steering wheel controls. You need to setup the pre-set stations. Then cycle through it to find the station you want. I've become XM addicted by the way. Why don't you read the manual. Its very easy to figure out.
I think that may be what the owner was trying to get to work, and I myself wish was available.
Mrbill
at first the d4 light started flashing and check engine light came on. then speedometer stopped working. might have all happened at once...i was stuck in traffic so i couldn't tell. figured it was the speed sensor and was hoping to ignore it until i could afford to get it fixed.
a couple days later i couldn't get out of park without using the shift lock release. seems to drive fine but none of the gauges or indicator lights work. the power windows and clock aren't working either. when i open my door it starts beeping like when you leave the lights on. the break lights do work fortunately.
i checked all the fuses and #1 (interior fuse box) was blown. manual says 'back up lights/meter lights'. i replaced it but as soon as i started the car it blew again. i don't even have to put my foot on the brake or try to shift before it blows.
is there a way to unplug the gauge cluster without taking the dash apart to see if it's causing a short? how could this affect the shift lock? not sure how to tell if they're different issues or the same. since the brake lights work can i rule out the brake switch? only thing else i can think of is speed sensor (original problem) or maybe shift lock solenoid.
any thoughts will be greatly appreciated.
thanks.
mark
If and when your transmission does fail, and dealer noted something like "normal operating state" on the work order, there'd be strong grounds for a future goodwill repair.
Even if it has to be replaced now, and the kit hadn't been installed, imo you still have a case for goodwill repair because the transmission was under-engineered to start with.
With the V6 Accord's abnormal transmission failure rate, one can't be too careful.
Just want to know the exact position to put the string in.
Is it where the thin top edge of the glass window hit when closed?
My understanding is that the cross-section of the run channel is an inverted U, and it is the top of the inverted U, NOT the two sides.
Is it the foam tape (weather stripping, foam with sticky tape at the back) that you used?
I have enough with this too in my 2004
Thanks a lot
TTB
Bob
The length goes from the side mirror to the upper corner.
The one I used doesn't have stick tape on the back.
Don't use tape or glue when you put the foam inside the run channel. In case you make a mistake cutting the string too narrow/thin, you can take it out easily.
If the timing belt hasn't been changed, it's time to do a complete timing belt job (all belts, water pump, and oil seals). Call a couple dealers to give your the estimates.
The difference could be in a hundred dealer from dealer.