I haven't done it to repair a water reservoir crack, but I would try silicon caulk which is flexible or polyurethane adhesive in a caulking tube from Lowes named PL-1. It's a quick grab and dries in several minutes and sticks well to plastics.
Yeah....'04 accord EX, CD player been troublesome from day one, mysteriously stops working, CD just stops playing, new CD's, old CD's doesn't matter. Unit is defective, going in tommorrow to have dealer replace unit finally. Multiple door seal rattles, windshield was not sealed properly at the factory (japan) and rattled BADLY. Windshield fixed, door seals...forget about it, no real fix. Silicone creams, ointments, potions and crap are temporary noise reducers at best. The car has some good points BUT I will never again look at Honda as the #1 quality japanese car maker.
On a side note, I just gotta say my stripped, no a/c, vinyl seats, '92 toyota tercel had a better build quality than the ex accord I presently own. Moral of the story: a $20K car from honda doesn't guarantee quality.
I have an 06 Accord LX 4cyl that shifts noticeably firm/harsh from 1st to 2nd - almost like a slight delay - at times almost slowing the car down slightly before shifting out of 1st. All other shifts from 2-5 are smooth. I would describe this as someone else described it in message 10330.
Is this typical of recent generation automatics? It only has 600 miles on it and has been doing it since day one.
Your battery was faulty and was replaced. The problem has not recurred. And yet you say that the problem is not resolved? The problem IS resolved.
Could your second battery go bad? Sure. Could a meteor fall on your head tomorrow? Probably. Are either likely? Probably not.
A failing car battery is a failing car battery. It could happen in any car by your own statement. So, perhaps you should not drive at all. Or at least carry a trunk full of spare batteries.
You need to be sure that the correct zone is set on the mirror, and the mirror also has to be synchronized by driving around in a circle three times - there is a little indicator in the display that will turn off once this is done.
There should be an insert that came with the mirror (or was included in the glove box if the dealer did the installation) that explains the process. I don't have mine handy so I can't quote from it.
I find it astonishing that the people who responded to my post completely missed the point. A dead battery should not strand you on the side of the road. If you have a jumper kit, you should be able to start the car and drive to get help. Is there something wrong with the way I'm writing this? The faulty design of the on-board computer prevents such action. The only choice you have is to call for a tow. Also, the traditional method of getting a jump from a buddy with battery cables is of no use. The traditional method of getting a jump from the tow truck operator is of no use. How can you not understand that?
The flaw in this design is obvious. The system should default to something basic or simple that will allow you to override the computer. Then, instead of being stranded, you can just jump the engine and drive where you need to go. The problem is not resolved.
I recently bought a 1999 accord type R with 60000 miles on the clock. Ive only driven 2000 miles so far and already im having problems. The steering seems to become progressively tighter as the engine warms up, this is also accompanied by a knocking/grinding noise when the steering wheel is turned from left to right. The steering is so stiff that when turning a corner I can let go of the wheel and the car will continue to go round instead of tracking straight again. The problem sounds like something is seizing up, however, I've checked the ball joints and track rod ends and they seem to be moving freely (I'm just hoping its not the steering rack!). Has any one got any ideas? Any replys will be much appreciated.
It is 2 months 2005 Accord Coupe, each time when it pass a bump there always a crack noise come from the driver side, over dashboard, seems coming from the joint of windshield and door. This is very annoying especially in highway,the noise will happen quite often. I can suffer it if it a 2 years car.
Hi all - Just wondering if anyone else with an 04 has had a problem of not being able to remove their key when they turn the car off. I was on the train coming home when my wife called to say she couldn't get the key out of the ignition. She tried several times each of the following: turning the steering wheel, shifting into drive then back to park, driving the car up and down the driveway. No Luck! So I had her pick me up at the station and when we got home, of course it came right out. From reading the discussions, it seems like it could be a bad brake switch, or transmission lock switch. Any one have any suggestions?
"I find it astonishing that the people who responded to my post completely missed the point."
Not really, joe122. pj23's point was well taken because a shorted battery will not pass the nominal 12+ volts from the jump battery to the rest of the car when jumped. Accordingly (no pun intended), the engine and transmission control computers respond in a self-protective mode to avoid "suicidal" under-votage damage. Annoying in the event of a breakdown such as you experienced? You betcha! But nowhere nearly as annoying as also having to replace the two computers, which if purchased together, could run into the high-hundreds.
Not necessarily. Two thoughts (and they're ONLY thoughts):
1) You might have a defect in your new car's transmission, but,
2) All current automatic transmissions (even Honda's very much mechanically different design) use "fuzzy logic" in the transmission control module, the computer which works hand-in-hand with the engine control module, to adapt to the principle user's driving style, and it can take t-i-m-e. The advantage of this approach is that the same process occurs as the transmission parts gradually wear over time to maintain shift quality - no periodic "band" adjustments. Dunno about Hondas, but my Sonata has a unique "feature" that was finally designed out with the '05 models: if the battery goes belly-up or is disconnected for more than 20 seconds, the TCM "fergits its learnin'" and has to go through the whole rigamorole all over again. The '05 and '06 Sonatas won't forget - they have to be actively de-programmed by the dealer to "forget" the settings if it's ever necessary after a tranny rebuild. But, on my '03 Sonata, I'm so looking forward to the day I have to replace the three-year old OEM battery... (It took nearly two years for my transmission to get the initial 2-3 upshift smoothed out when cold - and there's still the occasional episode where that shift "pounds" home. Never again!)
His tone was sarcastic suggesting that I shouldn't drive to avoid worry - offensive. Of course your explanation is correct and I respond by saying, again, that the design is flawed. Cars reached a high point of reliability when the computer(s) controlled fewer sub-systems. At this point, a dizzying array of potential failures can leave a person stranded. I think we are headed in the wrong direction.
I should also mention that, had those ridiculous computers failed, it wouldn't have cost me a dime; the car is well in the early warranty period.
Train your wife...you have to push in on the key when you are trying to remove it due to the floor shift lever. Just trying to pull the key out will not work, evidently pushing in on the key before you remove it trips an interlock which can only be attempted when you have the key in the insert position and the transmission is in Park. Stops people from removing the key when going down the road...an idiot-proof engineering feature.
If you have a flat you are stranded. If your fuel pump fails, you are stranded. If your water pump fails, you are stranded. There are many parts that will immobilze a vehicle. But none of them fail on a regular basis.
Okay you had a defective battery. And there are probably many ways that batteries can fail. And is a defect rate on everything. That's probably why Honda built a protection feature into the cirtcuit.
A flat will not leave me stranded; I am capable of mounting the spare. Periodically, I make sure that it is pressurized to 65lbs as recommended by Honda.
As I said, I drove a number of different Toyotas, during a 20 year period and never had a fuel or water pump failure, or any other major failure. Was I lucky? I don't know, as they were all new or relatively new cars. They were, without doubt, simple and reliable. I had all of them serviced every 5,000 miles. Only in one car did I have to replace the air-conditioner compressor and that didn't leave me stranded. A Tercel, at 120,000 miles had the original muffler and the original clutch.
Last night, I had a conversation with a friend of mine who is a Nissan master mechanic. He agreed that all brands of modern cars have become too complex and too reliant on computer monitored systems. His take was that the software and firmware have bugs which can cause a multitude of potential problems.
Honda owners will never discover the failsafe in the computer brain that protects it in case of a battery failure. But you did. Maybe you ought to play the lottery to with those kinds of odds.
Last night, I had a conversation with a friend of mine who is a Nissan master mechanic. He agreed that all brands of modern cars have become too complex and too reliant on computer monitored systems. His take was that the software and firmware have bugs which can cause a multitude of potential problems.
There you go... Last night you finally got your answer.
...Reminds me of a talk I had with a United Airlines pilot, who was praising the Airbus planes for their modern technology and ergonometry, compared to Boeing's (at least the models before the latest, 777) but then complained about the Airbus behaving sometimes erratically, because of too much reliance on computers....
yes, and taking the pilot out of the active role of actually piloting the vehicle. nice smooth efficient cruising when all is working as designed, and a disengaged pilot when things go wrong. ((humans are poor passive monitors)).
once upon a time, many human factors people focused attention on the airline industry because of their increasing emphasis on technology and automation of systems as functionality, demands on traffic and spacing, performance, stability, and safety, etc. increased. ultimately they were trying to assess and report the trend's impact on the human operator who seemed to be getting further and further out of the loop.
i suspect these specialists will soon train their sites on the automobile industry for similar reasons.
You may form whatever opinion you wish regarding my post.
However, your original post was slanted toward this battery issue as being a Honda problem, by your comparison to your experience with Toyota cars over the past 20 years. After haefr's thoughtful post you have now broadened your issue to modern cars in general. I'd just like to clarify then that it isn't Honda cars that you have a problem with, it is modern cars with many computer systems that have high electrical demands, and which computer systems might automatically protect themselves in the event of a problem with the battery.
No, I think YOU miss the point. You state the computer detected a short in the battery and shut itself down. Not a bad battery, but a short that in order to be detected by the computer, must have created some voltage or other anomoly. You also stated that other wierd electrical things were happening.
A short, or any type of unstable electric current has the potential to FRY your computer very easily. This can and does happen all the time to computers. Your computer was protecting itself from being stuck with a $1200+ bill for CPU replacement. And if the computer DID go dead from the unstable electric, then you would go nowhere anyway.
So, the choices are 1) Computer shut down to prevent damage or 2) Computer defaults to "basic" mode, fry from the unstable current, and then you are not only stuck with a tow anyway, but also need a new computer. Thankfully the engine control software writers picked option 1.
And, btw, modern cars do not run without their computers.
So, I went to get in my new '06 coupe that I purchased three weeks ago, and when I shut the door, I heard a loud and unusual sound. My rear windshield just shattered.
Uh... what?!
Dealer isn't open today. I called the salesman and he told me to bring it by in the morning. Right now it's all taped up with a plastic bag.
Talk to a glass dealer, you will find this happens more then you would expect.
All the glass except for the windshield is tempered so it crumbles into small pieces designed to keep injuries down in an accident.
Its possible that something wasnt perfect in the tempering process, and closing the door put enough stress on the glass to cause it to break. You just happened to get that piece of glass, bummer
1. It is obvious that some people are unable to read. 2. I never said it was a Honda problem; there are always people here who become defensive if a negative comment is directed at Honda. 3. All modern cars (including Toyota) have the same on-board computer design and sub-system design. There are three companies in the world who produce them; I have no control of that. 4. The "argument" (and I've lost interest in it) is that more simply designed cars are more reliable. 5. The vulnerabilities and deficiencies of computer controlled cars are well-known to people with an open mind. The tow truck operator told me that Mercedes and BMW have a very high rate of failure (and require a tow) because of electronic/computer problems.
I would bring it to an auto glass repair shop if they are open today. Chances are that's what the Honda dealer is going to do anyway and then Honda can re-imburse the shop or your insurance will.
I've been picking up rocks while driving to work in the morning. Is there any way to cheap and easily fix little scratches that develop on my windshield from rocks? I see no need for a new windshield considering i'll always have this problem with rocks no matter where I drive. They aren't big and don't block my view but they are noticeable and draw my eyes while driving. I guess im just very picky.
I have a 2005 5 speed MT coupe with 3800 miles bought new in May. Noticed the oil is a little low today, instead of a normal oil level between the two holes on the dip stick, it's a little below the two holes. Not too far but far enough that I am writing here. The car runs fine, great gas mileage, oil temp is a little more then halfway to center. So should I throw some oil in there and forget about it? I probably drive the car harder then the average driver and I haven't had the first oil change yet...waiting for five thousand miles.
They do make a do-it-yourself kit for repairing chips in windshields. I don't know how well they work, but if your just repairing minor chips, it may do what you want.
Large chips I would tend to leave to professionals.
I dunno. If it were me, I'd take it to the dealership. (and I've made no secret of my intense disdain for car salespeople and dealerships in principle - like a purgative, I use 'em only when necessary) At only 3 weeks ownership, I'd think there'd be a high liklihood the windshield would be replaced under warranty, but if he takes it to a glass shop, Honda may balk. (Leastways I've never heard of a manufacturer covering a warranty claim repaired by an independent shop unless the owner could validly claim hardship in getting the car to an authorized dealership.) The bright spot in all this is that it happened early on in the car's life.
i think you meant coolant temp being little more than halfway to center.
there are those that believe that the oil originally placed in the vehicle at the time of manufacture has special additives for the break-in period. i'm surprised you have any consumption at 3800, but then again, did you check the level when you first purchased the vehicle? it might have been a tad low to begin with.
why not call your dealer and ask for their recommendation?
oh my, i would not like my driving habits to be tracked at that fine-grain level. think about what insurance companies would do with that information: "we see you travel through some of the most congested intersections [substitute areas of frequent motor vehicle theft] each week. we'll have to charge you a factor of 1.1x the base rate for insurance".
i'm sure parents would love to track their children on a map of the area though.
what about the cops using the information to track where you were driving: "you are a suspect as the road monitoring system traced your vehicle passing by the residence on the night of the 11th".
more fun? I don't think so. more safety?
what happens when we rely on these warnings, and the function ceases to work?
Thanks for your response. I think your right about the coolant temp, my mistake. I remember checking the oil with the salesman when I picked up the car and thinking it was fine. I don't drive the car much and I've heard from other owners that cars that sit for long periods of time can lose oil (where exactly does it go - I don't know). Call to dealer "said it was normal." Thanks again.
ON a 91 Honda accord, only the filler neck of the reservoir is visible. The actual reservoir, motor, etc. are all below a metal shelf, which the filler neck goes through. ON the underside, it appears that all the wheel well covers are underneith.
I'm sure it's not that hard to get out. I'd have to see it. The Japanese don't do stupid stuff like that. There must be something you can pull or unbolt out of the way.
Rattles...Rattles...Rattles Location is somewhere around the front passenger side...perhaps the door....dash...."A" pillar..... Doesn't appear to be the speaker in the door....turned stereo off....rattles still there....could be the window...but with the window up/down or even cracked open...still rattles.....anyone with any ideas????? Thanks allot!
I own a 2004 accord and it has 25K on it (by friday). the owners manual says 60K I think but I'm not waiting that long. I had two 1994 camrys and changed both of those at 55K but sooner after that as they got older. I'm new to honda so I'd ask here for your thoughts. I was going to do just one drop or two drops (meaning drop and drive and drop and drive to dilute out the hung up fluid). I know it takes 4 changes to get the old stuff to 4% or so left but since it's fairly new, I was going to do one drop for sure but maybe two (one gets it to 43% new/57% old and two gets it to 76% new 24% old). What have you guys (and gals) done?? thanks.
I drove to the dealership first thing monday morning. The service manager was called out to see the car and was simply amazed. Guess it hasn't happened much before, and they didn't really know what to say. The guys were very nice and professional, and didn't hesitate to have it replaced. The whole ordeal took less than 10 minutes. I am hoping to have the car back by tomorrow. We'll see.
Of course, now my next worries are whether they will install this windshield properly so it doesn't shatter/leak/make noise. Or, even worse, what will go wrong NEXT?! I hate to seem pessimistic, but now I can't help but wonder what else might happen. I'd hate to think I bought a lemon. This is my first Honda (after owning Toyotas for years).
Give yourself a break, Scott. Since car bodies are built on precision jigs and welded up robotically, the odds of your Accord's body being out of alignment are improbably low. The windshield that tanked may have had internal stresses that weren't properly annealed out during manufacture. Until proved otherwise, the odds overwhelmingly favor a one-off situation that you just "lucked" into. (Frankly, if I ever buck odds like that, I pray I'll be standing in front of a ten-million dollar progressive pay-out slot machine in Prim, Nevada...) Don't throw the baby out with the bathwater.
Glass is actually not "solid"--it is a fluid. Ever see the windows on very old buildings? Right--the glass is drooping due to gravity.
Given that glass is basically not entirely stable, during production some glass just doesn't get made right, and will give way under a sharp bump or some torquing....or sometimes, I'm told, just because it wants to.
Comments
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
On a side note, I just gotta say my stripped, no a/c, vinyl seats, '92 toyota tercel had a better build quality than the ex accord I presently own. Moral of the story: a $20K car from honda doesn't guarantee quality.
1.Obviously you didn't read Edmunds before you bought tjat car.
2.Where do you get a car that guarantees quality at any price?
3.How do you compare a stripped Tercel (I owned 3 of them) to a Accord EX?(I've owned 3 of this generation)
Is this typical of recent generation automatics? It only has 600 miles on it and has been doing it since day one.
Steve
Could your second battery go bad? Sure. Could a meteor fall on your head tomorrow? Probably. Are either likely? Probably not.
A failing car battery is a failing car battery. It could happen in any car by your own statement. So, perhaps you should not drive at all. Or at least carry a trunk full of spare batteries.
There should be an insert that came with the mirror (or was included in the glove box if the dealer did the installation) that explains the process. I don't have mine handy so I can't quote from it.
The flaw in this design is obvious. The system should default to something basic or simple that will allow you to override the computer. Then, instead of being stranded, you can just jump the engine and drive where you need to go. The problem is not resolved.
This is very annoying especially in highway,the noise will happen quite often. I can suffer it if it a 2 years car.
Anyone has such problems?
Thanks
If you want to try harsh, try my 88 Accord, now thats harsh!!
Mrbill
Not really, joe122. pj23's point was well taken because a shorted battery will not pass the nominal 12+ volts from the jump battery to the rest of the car when jumped. Accordingly (no pun intended), the engine and transmission control computers respond in a self-protective mode to avoid "suicidal" under-votage damage. Annoying in the event of a breakdown such as you experienced? You betcha! But nowhere nearly as annoying as also having to replace the two computers, which if purchased together, could run into the high-hundreds.
1) You might have a defect in your new car's transmission, but,
2) All current automatic transmissions (even Honda's very much mechanically different design) use "fuzzy logic" in the transmission control module, the computer which works hand-in-hand with the engine control module, to adapt to the principle user's driving style, and it can take t-i-m-e. The advantage of this approach is that the same process occurs as the transmission parts gradually wear over time to maintain shift quality - no periodic "band" adjustments. Dunno about Hondas, but my Sonata has a unique "feature" that was finally designed out with the '05 models: if the battery goes belly-up or is disconnected for more than 20 seconds, the TCM "fergits its learnin'" and has to go through the whole rigamorole all over again. The '05 and '06 Sonatas won't forget - they have to be actively de-programmed by the dealer to "forget" the settings if it's ever necessary after a tranny rebuild. But, on my '03 Sonata, I'm so looking forward to the day I have to replace the three-year old OEM battery... (It took nearly two years for my transmission to get the initial 2-3 upshift smoothed out when cold - and there's still the occasional episode where that shift "pounds" home. Never again!)
I should also mention that, had those ridiculous computers failed, it wouldn't have cost me a dime; the car is well in the early warranty period.
Okay you had a defective battery. And there are probably many ways that batteries can fail. And is a defect rate on everything. That's probably why Honda built a protection feature into the cirtcuit.
As I said, I drove a number of different Toyotas, during a 20 year period and never had a fuel or water pump failure, or any other major failure. Was I lucky? I don't know, as they were all new or relatively new cars. They were, without doubt, simple and reliable. I had all of them serviced every 5,000 miles. Only in one car did I have to replace the air-conditioner compressor and that didn't leave me stranded. A Tercel, at 120,000 miles had the original muffler and the original clutch.
Last night, I had a conversation with a friend of mine who is a Nissan master mechanic. He agreed that all brands of modern cars have become too complex and too reliant on computer monitored systems. His take was that the software and firmware have bugs which can cause a multitude of potential problems.
There you go... Last night you finally got your answer.
...Reminds me of a talk I had with a United Airlines pilot, who was praising the Airbus planes for their modern technology and ergonometry, compared to Boeing's (at least the models before the latest, 777) but then complained about the Airbus behaving sometimes erratically, because of too much reliance on computers....
once upon a time, many human factors people focused attention on the airline industry because of their increasing emphasis on technology and automation of systems as functionality, demands on traffic and spacing, performance, stability, and safety, etc. increased. ultimately they were trying to assess and report the trend's impact on the human operator who seemed to be getting further and further out of the loop.
i suspect these specialists will soon train their sites on the automobile industry for similar reasons.
However, your original post was slanted toward this battery issue as being a Honda problem, by your comparison to your experience with Toyota cars over the past 20 years. After haefr's thoughtful post you have now broadened your issue to modern cars in general. I'd just like to clarify then that it isn't Honda cars that you have a problem with, it is modern cars with many computer systems that have high electrical demands, and which computer systems might automatically protect themselves in the event of a problem with the battery.
Is this what you are arguing?
A short, or any type of unstable electric current has the potential to FRY your computer very easily. This can and does happen all the time to computers. Your computer was protecting itself from being stuck with a $1200+ bill for CPU replacement. And if the computer DID go dead from the unstable electric, then you would go nowhere anyway.
So, the choices are 1) Computer shut down to prevent damage or 2) Computer defaults to "basic" mode, fry from the unstable current, and then you are not only stuck with a tow anyway, but also need a new computer. Thankfully the engine control software writers picked option 1.
And, btw, modern cars do not run without their computers.
Uh... what?!
Dealer isn't open today. I called the salesman and he told me to bring it by in the morning. Right now it's all taped up with a plastic bag.
To say I am mad is an understatement.
:surprise: :confuse: :mad:
All the glass except for the windshield is tempered so it crumbles into small pieces designed to keep injuries down in an accident.
Its possible that something wasnt perfect in the tempering process, and closing the door put enough stress on the glass to cause it to break. You just happened to get that piece of glass, bummer
Mrbill
2. I never said it was a Honda problem; there are always people here who become defensive if a negative comment is directed at Honda.
3. All modern cars (including Toyota) have the same on-board computer design and sub-system design. There are three companies in the world who produce them; I have no control of that.
4. The "argument" (and I've lost interest in it) is that more simply designed cars are more reliable.
5. The vulnerabilities and deficiencies of computer controlled cars are well-known to people with an open mind. The tow truck operator told me that Mercedes and BMW have a very high rate of failure (and require a tow) because of electronic/computer problems.
I would be mad as hell as well !
http://www.cars.com/go/news/Story.jsp?section=news&subject=recent&story=111105storyaUT
Thanks for your thoughts.
Large chips I would tend to leave to professionals.
Mrbill
The old "simple" cars broke down too. They also needed an engine overhaul around 80,000 miles if you were lucky.
there are those that believe that the oil originally placed in the vehicle at the time of manufacture has special additives for the break-in period. i'm surprised you have any consumption at 3800, but then again, did you check the level when you first purchased the vehicle? it might have been a tad low to begin with.
why not call your dealer and ask for their recommendation?
oh my, i would not like my driving habits to be tracked at that fine-grain level. think about what insurance companies would do with that information: "we see you travel through some of the most congested intersections [substitute areas of frequent motor vehicle theft] each week. we'll have to charge you a factor of 1.1x the base rate for insurance".
i'm sure parents would love to track their children on a map of the area though.
what about the cops using the information to track where you were driving: "you are a suspect as the road monitoring system traced your vehicle passing by the residence on the night of the 11th".
more fun? I don't think so. more safety?
what happens when we rely on these warnings, and the function ceases to work?
oh my...big brother.
I think your right about the coolant temp, my mistake. I remember checking the oil with the salesman when I picked up the car and thinking it was fine. I don't drive the car much and I've heard from other owners that cars that sit for long periods of time can lose oil (where exactly does it go - I don't know). Call to dealer "said it was normal."
Thanks again.
Any thought are appreciated.
Jack
Location is somewhere around the front passenger side...perhaps the door....dash...."A" pillar.....
Doesn't appear to be the speaker in the door....turned stereo off....rattles still there....could be the window...but with the window up/down or even cracked open...still rattles.....anyone with any ideas?????
Thanks allot!
Just change your fluid if it makes you feel better!
Of course, now my next worries are whether they will install this windshield properly so it doesn't shatter/leak/make noise. Or, even worse, what will go wrong NEXT?! I hate to seem pessimistic, but now I can't help but wonder what else might happen. I'd hate to think I bought a lemon. This is my first Honda (after owning Toyotas for years).
That would just make me more mad.
Given that glass is basically not entirely stable, during production some glass just doesn't get made right, and will give way under a sharp bump or some torquing....or sometimes, I'm told, just because it wants to.