Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

wtliao321

Thanks for your reply. I think the engine should accelerate smoothly without any vibration. But there is no vibration at idle, only at acceleration around between rpm-2500rpm. It's just getting worse.

user777

thanks for the update. all i can say is look at the link i provided. if that filter is inside the case, i'm not to argue with a Master Tech who also happens to be a Transmission Builder.

harry113

All of a sudden the back lighting for my radio and climate control went inop all other lights work. Is there a light that can be replaced? If there is how can I get to it.

mrbill1957

Time to see your dealer. This is a known problem, and they have been giving "goodwill" repairs to people that complain. It's not a do-it-yourself repair since it isn't a simple bulb replacement.

Mrbill

oldjoe

After the baloney wacko's whining when we went to $3 a gallon on gasoline, there is barely a whimper when we have "drifted" rather quickly to $1.99 a gallon at all gas stations...will it head lower? ...and that is for 89 octane with ethonol here in Eastern Iowa.

imidazol97

What was the pricing BEFORE the Katrina windfall for oil companies with high pricing? $1.59????

Sooooo, we're to be happy now that they've lowered it to $2.00?

frankbailie

I took my honda accord ex 2003 car into my dealer for the 48,000 kilometer service. They told me my front brake pads and rotors had to be replaced. I asked them why the rotors needed replacing and they said that the brake pads had to be redesigned due to premature wear and the newly designed pads would not be compatible with the old rotors. I wasn't too pleased with this extra expense due to a Honda design problem. I have owned Hondas since 1992 and this is the first time I have had an issue like this with the brakes. Seems to me things should be better today than in 1992.

mrbill1957

If your dealer said your rotors were worn, well, Ok I could believe that, but to say they would not be compatible with the new pads, wow!!! now I heard everything!!.

You just got took if that was their reason to replace them.

Mrbill

chucko3

Do your front brakes make a pulsation when you apply the brakes?
If not, I just drive until you hear a wear-out indicating sound. Then I replace both the rotors & pads.

elpablo123

I have a question, yesterday I bought a 2006 Accord Value Pack (VP) where the only speakers available are the ones on the front. The grids on the side and the back have basically just the holes (no speakers). I took it today to Circuit City to install 4 more speakers but they said they couldn't do it because there is no wiring and some other problem related to not being able to install the speakers in those holes.

Does anybody know any solution to this? Is there any way I can install the other speakers? How much it may cost me? Would have been better to get the LX with 6 speakers and pay 2K more to avoid this problem? Ane help I will appreciate.

Thank you,
kansas4451

bbtaco

The speaker wires should be taped to the factory wiring harness. The rear speakers are an available dealer installed option. I believe the VP model has the speaker grills in the back? Aftermarket speakers are better than the factory ones anyway. You can go to www.crutchfield.com and see what fits. If you have any questions they have a toll free supprt line you can call.

elpablo123

bbtaco,

I called crutchfield after I read you message. They don't have in their system the 2006 VP, they had the DX,LX and EX. So he wasn't sure what to tell me. Maybe I'll try HH Greg or Best Buy.

About your question, in the back there are 2 6x9 openings below the grids where the sound it's supposed to come into the car. I don't know if I'm explaining this very well.

Thanks for your help.

bbtaco

The DX is now called the VP model for 2006. Here is a link for the installation instructions for the optional factory speakers. I don't believe there is actually any difference in what fits the different trim levels, they are basically the same car. speaker install 6x9" speakers are what you want in the rear. Some brands may require you to drill a couple of small holes in the shelf to mount them. You need to use Crutchfields "what fits my car" section to be sure and get the right speakers. Especially for the front as they must be shallow mount speakers. Most people use 5 1/4" in the front. You can use 6 1/2" but have to use an adapter. Crutchfield is not the cheapest place to buy. But your speakers will come with any parts and wiring adapters needed to mount them and instructions tailored to your specific car.

mawaga

I've had my new Accord for a few weeks now. With less than 200 miles on the car, I took a road trip and got a little over 36 mpg highway. Was very happy with that! However, now that I'm back, my city driving is averaging a little over 20 mpg! Should I worry? Will city mpg improve with time? Unfortunately, I didn't track the city MPG prior to my trip to use as a comparison. My car currently has a little under 1000 miles on it. Thanks!

mamamia2

If you get 36 on the highway you're OK. Don't worry.

What's called "city driving" is so inaccurate, so unpredictable, and varies so much, including a driver's personal driving habits -- that I wouldn't rely on it at all.

And btw, "a little over 20 mpg" is not that outrageous to make you worry anyhow...

sparky7

Can anyone tell me about the idling in park and in drive?My car runs flawlessly while accelerating .I,m experiencing a really odd idling,there is a vibration and a hesitation .I took it in.They said they noticed it in other cars like mine.They said they connected it to the computer and found nothing.Since it runs very good while acceleration I can,t really justify it is the idle.It is frustrating because sometimes it will idle normally.The hesitation comes every 4 seconds then normal then hesitation.I just don,t think that a new car with 1500 miles should have this type of defect.Can anyone tell me about their idling in park and in drive?I have a regular mechanic I have used for years on my other vehicles and I,m considering taking it to him for a second opinion.I,m familiar with the fan kicking in.

mawaga

Appreciate the input. I guess my concern on "city" mileage was based on the fact that my previous car (which was 11 years old) still got 23/24 mpg "city" and here my new one is only getting 20 (20.5 to be exact)! I'll just have to keep an eye on the mileage and hopefully will see some improvement as time goes by.

mamamia2

Several posters here have claimed that MPG should improve as the car breaks in, and should be noticeable after 5-6,000 miles.

mamamia2

Have the same car, noticed that the idling is more "pronounced" when in Drive, compared to Park, which is just natural for any car (some are more pronounced, some are less, though), but no "hesitation"....

jepjr

Has anyone had a problem with hearing a static electric discharge when they tilt their sunroof. My car has been at the dealer for this problem several times. They have been able to replicate it, but have no way of fixing it. The dealer found that all of the Accords (04 and 05) that they had quick access to made the same noise when tilting the sunroof.

Has anyone else noticed this problem?

Have any dealerships found a fix for you?

Thanks,
Joe

haefr

I doubt you have anything to worry about, either. An internal combustion engine takes disproportionately more fuel to run at low speed than it does at higher speeds. The "ideal" fuel-air mixture to burn gasoline is about 15:1, air:fuel. The only time this ratio is even approached is at a speed of around 50 mph or faster. (and, no, it doesn't work out that the faster you go, the better mileage you get, but, at least at highway speeds your engine is working most efficiently) In city traffic the ratio is closer to 10-12:1 - and when you're stopped at a redlight, it may be as low as 9:1. Even worse, regardless how efficient your engine is at idle, when stopped you're getting ZERO mpg. Your engine is still breaking-in. (people still have trouble understanding that even with the CNC machined and micro-polished moving parts installed on the assembly line, these precision pieces nevertheless need TIME to fully seat into their final alignment with their stationary or also-moving neighbors during operation, and that NO engine should be subject to full load or rev'd beyond 4,000 rpm during the first 600 miles or so) You won't approach optimum fuel economy until you have around 5,000 miles racked up. (and at that, it'll still continue to measurably improve very slightly on out to 10,000 or 12,000 miles) Around 5,000 miles, anticipate 36+ mph, highway and 24+ mpg, city.

haefr

Try wiping a fine film of glycerin from a glycerin-damped section of cloth on the rubber seal after retracting the blankity-blank sunroof pane. (guess what I think of sunroofs...) It's possible the sound is merely an adhesion "pop" as the glass breaks its seal with the perimeter rubber gasket during retraction. Whatever you do, DON'T use oil. Mineral oil's solvent action is death on many rubber compounds.

(Some owner's manuals suggest the glycerine treatment once a year to keep molded foam door seals soft and pliable, too.)

oldjoe

Possible problem with rear-view mirror;

The sun visor is made to set in the clips when it is forward on the windshield, which means it is not extended. If it is extended and brought to the regular position, then it will interfere with the rear-view mirror...any type. I have the auto-dimming mirror and experience no problems when the driver's side sun visor is latched on the roof mount correctly.

oldjoe

Pre-Katrina gasoline price here in Eastern Iowa was about $2.29 a gallon. So now we are under the pre-Katrina prices...filled up last night at $1.95 a gallon, so it is even getting cheaper. We will have shortages until environmentalists and Democrats are ignored and we will drill in Alaska and off the continental shelf. In the meantime, that oil is in the bank and will be available when ever the President of the USA decides to tap it. Of course we can all buy the Rube Goldberg Hybrids for approximately a 50% premium over regular gasoline autos.

In the interim, we should have a gasguzzling Federal tax of at least $1,000 a year for those Autos/SUVs/Pickups that cannot even manage an EPA number of 20MPG on the highway. If the vehicle is proveable to be used for busines, the the tax would be forgiven.

In addition, to curb excessive gas usage, speeding fines need to be drastically increased; for example, being caught going over 100MPH should result in a 10,000 dollar fine and permanent revocation of a driver's license.

grindjv

I think it may entail something mechanical actually getting fixed. I have the exact same car with the exact same problem, I have owned this car since it was new.... I think it has something to do with the A/C, but I am unsure. I find it interesting that two of the same cars are having the same ODD problem at the same time, maybe Honda needs to do a recall of some sort!

gee35coupe

"being caught going over 100MPH should result in a 10,000 dollar fine and permanent revocation of a driver's license.

The only way that would make any sense is if all cars got the same mileage. If there are cars like the 300C SRT-8 that can't get rated at over 20 mpg under any circustances, why should I get a ticket for driving my Accord faster. Even at 100 mph the Accord will top 30 mpg making that "speed penalty in the sake of efficiency" moot. The SRT-8 driver should be ticketed every time he/she starts the car. Not to mention any Italian supercar driver.

sparky7

Thanks for your help.I,m going to get my mechanics opinion today.The service manager at Honda told me if it continued to bring it back.I bought a new car so that I would not have to take off of work every other week.I agree that it is more pronounced in drive.It is hard to put into words what it is actually doing.My first thought was it was like it was missing but it runs great as far as accelerating. I don,t accept that this is a normal operating function of these cars.

desertmom99

Hi All,

Now that I have programmed my defrost to be able to turn off my A/C, how do I go about resetting it to factory setting (original setting)?

I just got my first oil change and my mechanic rotated the tires. He said he filled the tires up to 34 psi on each tire. Is this what the tire pressure should be at? I am really hoping for improved mileage! I also made sure that he replaced the drain plug washer when he changed the oil.

Thanks everyone for your help.

Lea

mrbill1957

34 PSI is higher then Honda recommends. I would deflate the tires to the numbers stated on the drivers side door jam.

Raising the pressure may give you a slight increase in gas milage, (I doubt you could really measure it) but with the higher pressure, your car will ride rougher, and you might not be able to stop as quick. This is because using a higher then recommended pressure alters the tire's contact area to the road, and Honda is the best source to decide what it should be.

Don't worry about the drain plug washer, I have an 88 Accord, and I think I replaced it only once during the 50 or so oil changes I did on it.

Mrbill

master1

All cars IDLE at a higher rate when parked because there is less air coming into the engine. Then, the fan starts working to cool the engine off, and creates a bit more noise. When you drive, a lot of air is always going into the engine, so the fan does not need to work. This is normal, and if you feel it is reving at a much too higher RPM, consult your owners manual, and go to your Honda dealer. Please respond so that I know you read this. Good luck

another_person

it's not how fast you go, it's how fast you get to that speed. On our last road trip, my friend and I (04 nad 05 2.4L accords) both average about 33 freeway mgp, even though we average speeds of 120-130mph(stupid ecu). When we drive closer to 60, we both only average about 34 mpg. To me, I could care less about that extra mile. In my opinion, speeding doesn't waste gas, accelerating/decelerating does. I've also seen this in my Land cruiser. When I drive around 85-90, I still get the same gas milage as when I drive at 60-65. It's all in how you accelerate, not your top speed.

amace

I just had the check engine light come on in my '03 Accord EX 4-cylinder. The light came on last week, so per the user manual, I removed and reclosed the gas cap, and the MIL light turned off the next time I ran the car. Since then, the indicator light has just come back on after approximately a half tank of gas, and has not turned back off. I took the car to AutoZone, ran the diagnostic, and it came up with P0122, Throttle Position (TP) Sensor Circuit Low Input. I now am trying to figure out if this would be covered under the California Emissions Warranty with Honda, which is 3yr/50k (or better with this SULEV motor). The car is just under 40K miles. Or is this a part that may be easy to replace on my own? I appreciate any advice anyone may have. Thanks in advance.

paulhaire

I have a 94 Honda Accord Ex and it did the same thing. Hesitated, speed ometer started going crazy to zero and back, and the engine light came on. Did you find out what the problem was? I started it up the next day and it ran fine for several miles, then did it again but with no downtime for 25 miles. I stopped for a few hours and drove some 35 miles back and it never occured again.

mamamia2

I had a similar problem on my '95 Accord V6, couple years ago. But it used to show up only at high speed (above 60 mph), when the needle would start jumping like crazy, go to zero, stay there, jump back up, etc, and I could feel the car slightly bucking and hesitating.

The problem was not the transmission but the DISTRIBUTOR and another smaller element that's attached to the outside of the distributor box, forgot the name. Once both were replaced -- everything went back to normal.

Honda actually reimbsed me for the repair, part of the major recall for my model.

chevymalibu

I used to have mine at 34-35 PSI but the noise with those michelins was too loud. I've backed off to 32 lately. Can't wait till they wear out and get quieter tires.

Why were you so worried about the oil drain plug washer? I usually changed them after 3-4 oil changes but it's not that big of a deal. The main concern it over tightening and ruining the threads on the oil pan. Doubt that will occur. Granted, it's only 69 cents or so but...

isellhondas

That is designed to be used one time.

It's not terribly critical if caution is used when tightening the plug but for the small amount of moey they cost, I would replace them as Honda reccommends.

csasser

The other day my Honda would not start. First thought was it was out of gas. Put a small can of gas in & only made it down the street when it died. Put another small can in, but this time the gas would not come out of the spout. So I unscrewed the spout and poured the gas into the funnel that was stuck in the gas tank. It was raining out so it is a possibilty that a small amount of water mixed in with the gas. It started again and I put more gas in at the gas station. Now the engine is skipping and sputtering and running very rough. HELP!

sparky7

The post you read is the second one I posted. The first post has more info regarding the problem I,m having.It is post #12903.The rpm doesn,t change when this interruption occurs. The fan kicks in and their is a slight difference. What I,m experiencing is completely different than the fan. Thanks very much for your help and info.and responding.

steveoregon

2006 LX four door 4Cyl:

I've noticed that the AC compressor cycles on occasionally while I have the heater on, with the ventilation system set to the position where all the air flow goes to the bottom vents (floor position). I understand the logic in having the AC come during defrost. But what's the point of having it come on with the heat directed at the floor?

Steve

paulhaire

Thanks for the information. Makes me feel a lot better. Thought it might be the trans and that would have meant buying a new one. The car runs great and looks great. Would not want to get rid of it just yet.

mamamia2

Tell us if your mechanic (or the Honda service) agrees with my opinion, and if you fixed it successfully. You may want to go thru a thorough Tune Up...

BTW, the other item attached to the Distributor might have been the "speed sensor", but I am not sure.

vegaslady

I have an 02 Accord 4 cyl I just bought and in checking the mileage twice I've decided I made a big mistake in buying this car. All I ever heard was how great Honda's are and what great mileage they get. The first time I checked it I got 20 MPG on the highway and the last time I checked it I got 18 MPG in mixed driving. If I jack rabbit off stop lights and drive 90 down the Vegas strip I should still get better mileage than that. I'm not a lead foot kid, I'm a senior and don't drive crazy (anymore) so I'm very upset over the mileage. Does anyone have any idea of what it might be or is this the real mileage for these cars. The suv I had before did as good as that. :confuse:

chino17

I don't know what might be wrong with my '04 radio screen acouple of days ago all the climate control lights went off, and on the radio screen i can't see anything, It won't display the time, but the sound system is fine the only problem are the lights. if you have any ideas on how to fix it please help me. :confuse:

accordfreak

Any suggestions where to get a replacement key with transponders? Don't know what the dealer will hit me up for but I'll bet its big. What should it cost? Please advise...

mamamia2

Vegas:

You haven't mentioned your car's odometer reading. However, it could be several things:

The car may need a major tune up.

Air filter could be too dirty.

The transmission may not shift to overdrive. Or maybe YOU shift it to D3 instead of D? Check the RPM at high speed... 4,500 RPM at 65-70 mph means the tranny is stuck at 3rd gear, wasting gas.... At that speed it should ran around 2,500-3,000 RPM.

Check your tires' pressure. Higher pressure (addtl. 3-4 PSI) than offically marked would get you better mileage.

Please come back with your findings.

accord22

i found this 1990 accord SE in a local paper in my area, i checked it out and it seems pretty good but its a salvage title and it was recently hit on the front left side that broke the headlight and cracked the body kit that was on it. the left side of the front bumper is coming off and wont push back into place..

is it repairable? and is there anything else i should look at? the engine SEEMS OK. my friend was telling me something about check the alignment to see (blah blah blah) kinda didnt understand him lol. but the steering wheel is a little to the right, but not much. any suggestions or tips that i should look at for that car?

dgrge

I needed to replace a key for my 01 Accord and it cost $25.00 at the dealer. You need to bring one of your other keys. If you lost your only key then you are in for some shock. You will also need proof of ownership such as the registration.

gly

Has anyone had a security system retro-fitted to a late model Accord? (My Accord is a 2005 model.) The questions I have are:

Is a security system worthwhile, or is the standard Honda security that comes with the car (not the optional one) sufficient?
Do you recommend Honda's unit or another brand of security system?
Does anyone have experience self-installing a security system? How difficult is it? The folks at H and A - Accessories sell a Honda unit for self installation.

FYI, I had two cars (one was the Accord) parked in my unlighted driveway along side of my house. I cannot see the driveway from my bedroom window. One night last week while I was home sleeping, thieves stole a Kenwood radio/CD from one of the cars. (The car was unlocked, but it was my driveway, for Pete's sake!) I have Honda's alloy wheels on the Accord, and I am afraid I may get another visit from those guys.

mrbill1957

Your problem has been mentioned numerous times in this forum. You might want to do a search on it.

Mrbill

bimmer4me

have you exceeded 36k, if not your car is still under warranty.