I just purchased a used 2001 Honda Accord with aprox 60k on the odometer. It appears that in 2001 the same I-4 engine called for 5-30w oil, but they switched in 2001 to 5-20w oil. I have seen where some have commented that they did this to aid in fuel mileage, however I would trade a couple miles to the gallon for extended engine life. Any comments or suggestions?
Anybody who drives an auto on any public thoroughfare at 100+ id certifiably insane and probably needs a five year prison sentence tacked on. Driving 100+ and getting 30MPG is obviously an economy that even the Accord does not have. Driving 100+ shows a mentally defective human being.
I tried a search on this subject, and came up with no matches for a pourous block.
I'm attempting to help my FIL who has a 98 Accord V6 Sedan - @31,000 miles. He has an oil leak, and took the vehicle to the dealer for repair.
He was informed the vehicle is leaking oil through the block - a known condition described as a pourous block. I understand there is a service bulletin on the defect.
The dealer ran a test with a sealant that has worked on some vehicles. It did not work, and they have said the leak is now worse after this test. Dealer rec. was a new motor for this car. They made attempts to cover under a program they had used before for this condition, and anticipated a cost 1st - $300.00, 2nd - $600.00. The dealer was not able to obtain Honda's permission under the program. Now, the only option given by the dealer is a new motor, no coverage - $6000.00.
I understand the vehicle is past the manf warrenty coverage. Since this is a known defect (Service bulletin exists) are there any suggested avenues to pursue that may assist in the cost of fixing this vehicle? Honda Customer service (not going through dealership) is closed today - day after Thanksgiving. Just wonder if there is anything I could do to get some help with managing the cost of this repair.
Hi! Vegas lady; I bought a certified Honda Accord 4cyl, coupe, 2002 with AT. I get 22 miles per gallon on mix highway and local driving. Sometimes, I got 19 miles per gallon. I cleaned spark plugs, cleaned cap and rotor, changed engine oil with 5w-20 full synthetic oil, changed transmission fluid with fluid from Honda dealer. The air filter is new. I adjusted the tire to 30psi ( the manual says 29 psi). The mileage is the same. So, Live with it because we can do nothing to make it better.
This afternoon was the first time I opened the hood of my 05 Accord LX 2.4L, bought 3 months back brand new from dealer. The car has 2800 miles. I noticed that the radiator reservoir is just slightly above the MIN level which means I must add radiator fluid soon.
The owner's manual recommends some Honda radiator fluid. Is that an absolute must? What do the other Honda Accord owners here use? And do you have to top up coolant so quickly? Or is it because my car is new?
I got my LX Auto last weekend. The overall gas millage is 30(2/3 highway that makes me quite happy. But after driving it 400 miles, I feel a small vibration in my gas pedal at low rpm between 1000-2000rpm and car does not accelerate very smooth at this range, especially at uphill. The sound from engine is kind of rough. This is only happen in low rpm range.
Can anybody give me a hint whether this is normal or not since I have never owned an accord before. Thanks!
Hi! Guitar; I guess that you checked the coolant when the engine was cool. If you checked it when the engine was cool, it is OK. Don't over fill it because if you overfill it, you have to drain some later. Just in case you want to fill it, buy coolant from dealer. It cost around $ 10 per gallon bottle.
here is the latest update to my leather problems. honda has agreed to replace my seat covers on both front seats. thanks only to the service manager at my dealer. after exhausting all appeals to honda of america and losing, i figured i would call the dealer and plead my case again,after bashing honda and their decision not to stand by their product and explaining how my seats are only getting worse. then i asked the service manager what if it was your cracked seats in your new car that is still under the warranty ,what would you do? that seemed to be the magical question. he went back to the rep , turns out honda decided to do the right thing but they never contacted meto inform me of the decision! they were hoping i would just go away! so i called the service manager again aftermore than a month, and he said they never called you to inform you of their decision? how slimy is that? so anyway the parts dep. called and got my info and ordered the parts. supposedly. i am waiting for their call to schedule an appointment for the repairs. the moral of the story is vigilance! dont give up if you know you are right! they have done their best to make me look and feel like the bad guy.it is a shame to them to treat one of their dedicated customers like this, i currently own 5 honda products ,all are fourwheelers,motorcycles and an accord,i appreciate the performance and the quality of them all! they have saved me as a customer ,only if they come through with the seat covers! i will keep on them, and keep you posted. steve
Considering in my state you can't get a rader enforced ticket until 80 mph, you don't get points taken off until 85, and there is a lot of open highway there are several areas where 100 mph can be travelled without fear of "prison sentence". You may get a big ticket though, but hey, it's my money. I have gotten well over 30 mph at that speed in several vehicles such as a 1987 4 cylinder Camry, 1996 Civic EX, and a few Accord EX's circa 1999-2004. Just because your area is too congested to allow travel at those speeds doesn't mean others can't.
There are Accord V6 owners getting over 30 mpg at 80 mph highway cruise speed, our I4 manual gets 35 mpg in mixed suburb city driving and even can even come close to 40 with the cruise set at 70. How do you know that the Accord doesn't have that kind of economy if you think it's "insane" to drive that fast? But anyway, the point I was making was that it made no sense to ticket someone in the name of "energy conservation" just because they were speeding when vehicles get such varying levels of economy.
Not gonna get into a debate over the why to ticket someone on an empty stretch of highway. Do a search in the "Inconsiderate Drivers" forum for more Speed Lmit rants.
i personally don't believe this is true (the part about not being able to do something to make it better). for example (not being exhaustive): you may have a bad MAF (mass airflow sensor), O2 sensor(s), engine temperature sensor, clogged/inefficient CAT convertor, stuck injector or perhaps other reasons for running rich, and perhaps even fast idle. unfortunately, going beyond what you've done would represent expensive experimentation - but ultimately, i believe there is some reason for your atypical fuel economy.
Thank you very much for your response. I don't think the car has a problem because the dealer just did smog check in August 05 before transferring title to my name and it is very good. I will monitor it, anyway. If the mileage is the same for 4 more gas tanks, I will take it to the dealer where I bought it. It is still under warranty because it is certified. Thanks again.
"... the noise with those michelins was too loud. I've backed off to 32 lately. Can't wait till they wear out and get quieter tires."
Michelin MXV4+ M&S tourers are NOISY tires - and that's the good news. The bad news? They wear like iron. I had 'em on my '96 Accord, and, naturally, Hyundai supplied 'em on my '03 Sonata, too... GAAHHH!
"...however I would trade a couple miles to the gallon for extended engine life..." (regarding use of 5W-30 viscosity motor oil vs. 5W-20)
In principle, I agree. But, A>, it won't make anywhere near a couple miles per gallon difference in fuel economy (closer to a few tenths of a gallon), and B>, 5W-30 motor oils typically shear down to about 20 "weight" at operating temperature after about 1,200 miles. (There's been considerable discussion on this topic on the "bobistheoilguy" motor oil forums.) Virtually all 5W-20 motor oils are a semi-synthetic whether they state so on the label or not, and stay within grade unless there's a fuel dilution problem from too much cold weather operation, short-tripping, and/or urban crawl. In short, flip a coin - it probably won't make a 100 mile difference over the life of the engine. Not that it makes a hoot in a holler's difference in your situation, but I'm still a year around 10W-30 man here in southern California.
"...The owner's manual recommends some Honda radiator fluid. Is that an absolute must?..."
Honda's proprietary antifreeze is a very good one. Honda, Toyota, and Nissan all use a variation on GM Dexcool theme of OAT ("organic acid technology"), NO phosphates, and NO silicates. However, unlike Dexcool, the Japanese variation includes a stiff dose of phosphates for additional protection against aluminum corrosion and waterpump cavitation damage - "hybrid" coolant technology. (To my knowledge there're no U.S. aftermarket brands of antifreeze/coolant that attempt to duplicate the Japanese antifreeze formualae.) The bad news is that these Japanese OEM coolants vary from ~$15.00 to ~$20.00 per gallon through the dealerships' parts departments - if you have several Honda delaerships in your area, CALL AROUND for price. Nevertheless, while the car is under warranty, your best bet to protect the warranty, is use what the owner's manual recommends. For future reference, after your new car's off warranty, a hybrid LOW silicate OAT formula such as Zerex G-05 would probably be a safe substitute for the Honda syrup. (The G-05 formula - a BASF development - has been the staple in most high-end European cars for over two decades. It's factory-fill for Mercedes-Benz, BMW, certain VW automobile cooling systems, Current factory-fill in Chrysler and Ford cooling systems, as well as certified by most American diesel engine manufacturers because of its resistance to cavitation damage in wet-cylinder liner heavy-duty engines. About $10.00 per gallon at Pep Boys.)
Guys, need your help diagnosing a 00 v6 problem ... came back home from a 20 mile trip and shifted to reverse, when the transmission started to make a whirring/griniding noise and wouldn't engage. I then tried shifting to other gears and none of them would engage/car is stalled in the driveway. I hear the grinding noise when I try to place it in any gear (including neutral). Just before the failure (during the trip), there was some vibration when accelerating from 0-40. Is this the infamous 00 v6 tranny problem? I haven't seen any sympoms of tranny problems/any trouble shifting gears before. Currently have around 71K miles on the car.
Thanks for your post, I had the car serviced today and went with the 10w-30 at the suggestion of the Castrol guy. I had been contemplating going with a synthetic oil but have always changed oil and filter every 3000 miles and it's hard after all these years to get away from that habit. I live in Colorado and the winters aren't terribly cold nor the summers boiling hot.The oil change guy suggested that I go with a 10w-40 in the summer time but I think that would be an overkill. Thanks again for your opinion.
Do a search, you probably just joined the '00-owners-club of the major transmission recall that Honda has published. If that's the case, Honda owes you a new (or rebuilt?) tranny....
"A sudden blow out, a deer jumping out..anything will kill you!"
The same things can happen at speed much less than 100. If you are going to live your life by being afraid of the "what-ifs" then you might as well put a gun to your own head. At least then you'll know what killed you. But even then "what if" the gun misfires and you only succeed in maiming yourself.
Our interstate system was designed for 70 mph travel when cars had solid axles, drum brakes, and didn't even have seat belts. I'm pretty sure my LS400 and Accord EX are improved enough to go a little faster on those same roads. But again, I'm not asking permission or even trying to convince anyone, just making the point that giving a ticket in the name of conservation is stupid.
In fact upon further though...The speed limit is also rather stupid for the same reasons. Why should someone in a car with crash zones, 20 airbags, pre collision systems, etc be required to obey the same speed limits as the driver of a 1984 Chevette? There's something funny about that too.
it's not in the name of conservation. at those high speeds, someone is very much a hazard to their fellow motorists, since their reactions may very well conflict with the actions of someone doing much much more than 70.
perhaps if everyone and their vehicles were capable of and doing very high speeds, there'd be less of a chance of a problem due to the speed differentials involved.
the speed limits aren't dictated merely as a function of road design, state of the art vehicle capability, nor the condition/maintenance of your particular vehicle and your particular driving prowness...
remember also, the interstates were designed at a time when the traffic volume and inter-vehicle spacing, vehicle mix and use, etc, etc was much different than it is on many major interstates today.
I recall midweek trips through Kentucky on the I-75 highway where 100 mph could have been the target speed for parts of the trip. But not now. NE Atlanta; no way is that safe.
I could have shot a cannon at times in the 70s and not hit anyone on I-71 through Kentucky/TN to Nashville. Not today.
You are driving on four contact patches that at that speed are smaller than a postcard. Your ability to control for any emergency or failure is nil.
If I lived my life afraid of accidents or failures, I wouldn't drive at all.
And if you live in NE Atlanta, you know the average speed on I-285 is approaches 80 mph. Now if people can do those speed with the density in that area, you should be able to do 100 mph on desolate stretches of I-20 and I-16 all day long.
I realize some areas aren't gonna be able to support those speeds. But in Ga for instance, the highways area are relatively straight with a large buffer area. If you hit a deer in the daytime, you weren't paying attention. Whereas in Virginia, you get tunnel vision doing 70 because the interstates there have no buffer area. I bet there is a much higher risk of deer strikes too. Even in the daytime.
There are no absolutes. 100mph can be done with reasonable safety in some areas and 55 is risky in others. Funny thing is you are more likely to get a speeding ticket in areas where it's safest to speed. Such as a lonely, desolate area of highway where speeders are easy pickins.
Going back to original post that started this though...Conservation isn't a reason for more strict speed limit enforcement. But then again, you have to wonder about the safety aspect too considering the widely varying levels of capability on the roads.
i drive the top end every day, and if you do too, you must admit 285 might permit 100mph, or it might permit 0mph. exactly how would you practically implement a dynamic speed limit on a 6-8 lane wide highway?
have you seen in real-time, ladders, tires, or other vehicle parts comming off of vehicles on 285? i've seen that and folding tables, doors, duct work, metal fence posts, tree limbs and a lot of other stuff comming off of vehicles in my lane or other lanes.
at 80+, you wouldn't have a chance, and if someone swerved to avoid the hazard, you very well might hit them.
i've seen a driver hit a tire and rim at speed on the 75/85 merge in the left most lane, when a vehicle in front of him swerved out of the way but rather late, the guy behind him had about 0 situational awareness of the hazard in front of him or her. the car went completely inverted like one of those stunt rolls... i'm pretty sure, noone lived to collect their stunt driving pay for that one. when it happens to the left of your driver's window, the experience is quite spectacular and scarey. i was 1/2 mile down the road before i processed what had happened.
like i said, your argument doesn't fly in general...
also we aren't living in fear by this awareness, we are being realistic, valuing our lives, and the lives of others.
We need to steer back to the original intent of this topic. You are all welcome to discuss this interesting speed issue in News & Views, where you could start a whole new forum on that subject.
""The Honda 3 shaft transmissions do have a filter but it is sealed inside the transmission case. The ONLY way to access the filter is to remove and disassemble the transmission. Front wheel drive transmissions such as these have the differential assy built into the transmission case. The differential is lubricated with the transmission fluid inside the transmission. What you can do if you want, is drain and refill (One time) every 6000 miles or so (Every other oil change). Honda fluid is expensive, but you need to use ONLY HONDA FLUID in this transmission. Draining and refilling one of these transmissions is actually much easier than changing your engine oil and filter. I have several customers where I have rebuilt their Honda transmissions who service their transmissions this way.
transman""
Specifically, this: "I have several customers where I have rebuilt their Honda transmissions who service their transmissions this way."
What is he saying? That after he rebuilt their transmissions, they started changing their fluid this way or they changed their fluid this way and he rebuilt their transmissions. It is late so maybe I'm not reading straight.
My daughter has a '99 Accord EX with a 4 cylinder and we had to replace the tranny because of a slow shift and jolt mainly going from 1st to 2nd gear. We took it in for a fluid change and they said there was internal leakage. $2k later and the car is fine. Now, this wasn't a Honda dealer who did it, but a trusted independent business who works on all of my cars. So, after having had transmission problems on both my wife's and my own car (not Hondas), I am going to be very religious about getting the fluid replaced. But every 6k miles? Okay, I can deal with that...if it will give my daughter another 150k or so on her tranny or until she graduates from college and she can get whatever she wants.
But before I do, I need to get clarification on what the master mechanic is saying.
Cars...man oh man. My most reliable vehicle is my 1971 Volkswagen pop-up camper bus. Adjust them valves, change that oil, grease them zerks...and it goes forever. Just not very quickly. But it makes up for all that in that it is great for my wife and I to get intimate in...actually make any journey something a little more savoring.
The "delay" you write of is internal transmission leakage. We made a decision on my daughter's '99 4 banger EX...fix it or just drive it.
Since she is in college pursuing her mechanical engineering/materials science degree and spends many hours a week twisting her brain, we decided to fix it so she wouldn't think about it.
$2k later and the problem is gone. Did it ever get worse..not to a great extent...but this thing has to last her until she gets her master's...another 4 years (she's a junior)...so we opted to just fix it.
Other than this and those GM inspired air conditioning/heater plastic rotary knobs that break..it has been a solid car.
A few days ago, I checked the coolant level in the reservoir tank -- this is a new Accord LX-V6 with 800 or so miles -- when the engine was cold, and the level was below the MIN level. I drove to a dealer, and when they checked it, it was right above the MIN line. They topped it off to right in between MIN and MAX and they said not to worry about it.
So now, when the engine is hot, the level in the tank is right in between MIN and MAX. When it is cold, it is right above MIN.
Should I be worried about leaks in the coolant system since it was below MIN when the engine was cold when I first checked the level? Or is it common that new cars come with not enough coolant?
Also, when should coolant level be checked, when the engine is hot or when the engine is cold?
I checked all of the fluids in our 06 LX SE when it had about 150 miles on it. The antifreeze level was slightly below the min line on the coolant overflow tank. The transmission fluid was about 1/8" above the full mark. I took it back to the dealer and they added enough antifreeeze to get it about 1/2" above the min line. They drained anough Transmission fluid to get the level down to the full mark. All other fluid levels were ok. Back to your question, I always check the antifreeze level when the engine is cold. It's easier to tell if you need to add any or not.
My 2005 honda accord v6 ex has 17,000 kms. My son got out of my car and I used the automatic door locks which locked my door as well. While then driving home I came off the expressway and had to stop in the left turn lane. I applied the brakes which were fine and then it felt like I was sliding on ice. No ABS came on and it was just like the wheels were turning but not braking the engine was running. I put the car in park and the car stopped but the engine started to rev so I turned the key off. After about 30 seconds I turned the car on and the engine started to rev again. I turned it off. At that point I pulled the door lock knob up and restarted the car from that point in time everything has been fine. The car goes to the dealership tommorow.
"I live in Colorado and the winters aren't terribly cold nor the summers boiling hot.The oil change guy suggested that I go with a 10w-40 in the summer time but I think that would be an overkill."
If it snows where you live, it's cold enough to require 5W-30 during the winter months for adequate oil circulation on first startup. (Engines suffer their greatest wear during cold startup, NOT warm running.) Don't even think about 10W-40 in your Honda - frankly it's an anacronym best left for shot beaters. Consideration of 20W-50 should be a committable offense.
Sorry, I totally disagree with you. I believe that your arguments are fine for a fireside discussion while sipping a bit of the grape, but there is NO justification in going 100MPH. It is not funny to see even one of the modern cars with all their safety equipment hitting a 1984 Chevette! Reckless driving will be the bane of driving in the USA. The new cars with their fantastic safety equipment also have a recorder for speed maximums...now why don't we have to have that checked once a month???? The better the driver, the more careful and cautious we all become.
still off topic here...there are plenty of forums in Edmunds for discussions of this type....let's stick to our cars and their problems and solutions. Thanks!
Currently have my 2003 EX V6 (60,000 mi) to get the transmission replaces. Noticed a delay in shifing between 2nd and 3rd. Service Rep said it needed to be replaced. They covered it for me (cost of $3,600) thankfully. Ended up trading it in for a 2006. I thought I got the car too early (10/2002 for the new '03 body style change). I had two other issues, O2 sensor and TCS issues. The later was under warranty but the sensor was at 40,000.
Have a Ford F-150 with 110,000 and not one issue. If I have these issues with the '06 it'll be the last Accord I own. Oh, and got $27,800 for the '06 EX-V6 w/Navigation.
Hello all. I have a 1990 Accord EX 5 speed 2.2 with 166K. I took my first roadtrip in the car this weekend and towards the end of the trip (250 miles) some strange things started happening. I didn't notice anything electrical at first. The brake light indicator in the dash came on like the parking brake was stuck but it wasn't. Then I noticed the radio and heater had lost power. Then when I got off the highway and used the clutch, when depressed, there was some godawful grinding noise but it didn't feel or sound like the gears at all. I shut the car off and restarted it and everything was back to normal. All the way back home it ran just fine. Has anyone ever had anything like this happen? What in the world could have caused all that? I have no clue. I'm really hoping someone can shed some light on this. Thank you.
...So what the story, dtroy? What did the dealer find out? It sure sound bizzare... To me it doesn't sound like the transmission, but the computer getting crazy....
Just an update about my previous message. I went back to dealer yesterday and a technician test drove with me. He did feel the noise and vibration when the car accelerated in low RPM at low gear. He claimed this is normal because of the characteristic of the Accord VTEC engine. Then he drove an 2003 Accord EX (4 Cylinders with 20K miles) trying to convince me about the noise. Ouch, 4 Cylinder engine is really noisy and has an very obvious vibration, but it's not similar to the issue that in my V6 engine.
Afterward, I test drove another 2006 Accord V6 and I felt a very slight vibration from the engine at low rpm and low gears, but the engine is quite and smoothly. I may go to the other dealer to get the second opinion. Now I just have to live with it, and I am very disappointed about my 2005 Accord V6. *Sign*... :sick:
maybe when you unloaded the engine by pressing in the clutch, you didn't have enough rotational energy to turn the alternator or some other device running on the same belt.
i guess you should have someone look at that, your alternator and battery. Connections to same.
I can't seem to figure this out so any ideas will be appreciated.
We have a 2002 Accord with 65K miles on it that is burning oil - but not consistently. Sometimes after a 1000 miles of highway driving, there is no loss of oil at all. At other times after a few days or so of driving to work and back (around 20 miles of back roads, occasional stop/go), I need to add over a quart or more. Once I had to add over 2 quarts after a few weeks.
My 98 Prelude used to burn oil, my S2000 burns oil as well but it's pretty consistent and not like the Accord.
Is it time to trade in the Accord? Can anything be fixed? The car is super clean otherwise and we were planning to drive it to the ground but not sure anymore.
The 2 major causes of excessive oil burning is worn rings and/or worn valve seals.
Rings are $$ to replace, but seals should be alot less.
If you read info on what is cheaper, repairing a car, or replacing, the repairing always seems to win.
I'm curious, how often did you change oil? What brand of oil do you use? 60k isn't that many miles, I would expect you should not be having oil burning problems for a long time.
When in Park the Engine will Rev up and down between 1 and 2. I also noticed battery leakage if that is associated. Any suggestions what causing the engine to rev?
I have a 05 Accord EX 4 Dr and when I was at the dealer last week buying a part I came back to my car to find that someone had run into the rear end while parked and damaged the bumper on the lower passenger side. The Sales Manager said they looked at the security tape and could not see anything. They have quoted me $229 for a new Honda rear bumper unpainted and in the box. They said it would be ~$300 more to paint and install.
Any suggestions on weather this is a good price or not and has anyone tried to fix damage to the rear fiberglass vs replacing it.
Comments
This sounds like a junker. I would keep looking.
Driving 100+ shows a mentally defective human being.
I'm attempting to help my FIL who has a 98 Accord V6 Sedan - @31,000 miles. He has an oil leak, and took the vehicle to the dealer for repair.
He was informed the vehicle is leaking oil through the block - a known condition described as a pourous block. I understand there is a service bulletin on the defect.
The dealer ran a test with a sealant that has worked on some vehicles. It did not work, and they have said the leak is now worse after this test. Dealer rec. was a new motor for this car. They made attempts to cover under a program they had used before for this condition, and anticipated a cost 1st - $300.00, 2nd -
$600.00. The dealer was not able to obtain Honda's permission under the program. Now, the only option given by the dealer is a new motor, no coverage - $6000.00.
I understand the vehicle is past the manf warrenty coverage. Since this is a known defect (Service bulletin exists) are there any suggested avenues to pursue that may assist in the cost of fixing this vehicle? Honda Customer service (not going through dealership) is closed today - day after Thanksgiving. Just wonder if there is anything I could do to get some help with managing the cost of this repair.
Vehicle is one owner.
I'd appreciate any suggestions.
I bought a certified Honda Accord 4cyl, coupe, 2002 with AT. I get 22 miles per gallon on mix highway and local driving. Sometimes, I got 19 miles per gallon. I cleaned spark plugs, cleaned cap and rotor, changed engine oil with 5w-20 full synthetic oil, changed transmission fluid with fluid from Honda dealer. The air filter is new. I adjusted the tire to 30psi ( the manual says 29 psi). The mileage is the same. So, Live with it because we can do nothing to make it better.
This afternoon was the first time I opened the hood of my 05 Accord LX 2.4L, bought 3 months back brand new from dealer. The car has 2800 miles. I noticed that the radiator reservoir is just slightly above the MIN level which means I must add radiator fluid soon.
The owner's manual recommends some Honda radiator fluid. Is that an absolute must? What do the other Honda Accord owners here use? And do you have to top up coolant so quickly? Or is it because my car is new?
Appreciate any advice. Cheers.
Can anybody give me a hint whether this is normal or not since I have never owned an accord before. Thanks!
I guess that you checked the coolant when the engine was cool. If you checked it when the engine was cool, it is OK. Don't over fill it because if you overfill it, you have to drain some later. Just in case you want to fill it, buy coolant from dealer. It cost around $ 10 per gallon bottle.
There are Accord V6 owners getting over 30 mpg at 80 mph highway cruise speed, our I4 manual gets 35 mpg in mixed suburb city driving and even can even come close to 40 with the cruise set at 70. How do you know that the Accord doesn't have that kind of economy if you think it's "insane" to drive that fast? But anyway, the point I was making was that it made no sense to ticket someone in the name of "energy conservation" just because they were speeding when vehicles get such varying levels of economy.
Not gonna get into a debate over the why to ticket someone on an empty stretch of highway. Do a search in the "Inconsiderate Drivers" forum for more Speed Lmit rants.
Michelin MXV4+ M&S tourers are NOISY tires - and that's the good news. The bad news? They wear like iron. I had 'em on my '96 Accord, and, naturally, Hyundai supplied 'em on my '03 Sonata, too... GAAHHH!
In principle, I agree. But, A>, it won't make anywhere near a couple miles per gallon difference in fuel economy (closer to a few tenths of a gallon), and B>, 5W-30 motor oils typically shear down to about 20 "weight" at operating temperature after about 1,200 miles. (There's been considerable discussion on this topic on the "bobistheoilguy" motor oil forums.) Virtually all 5W-20 motor oils are a semi-synthetic whether they state so on the label or not, and stay within grade unless there's a fuel dilution problem from too much cold weather operation, short-tripping, and/or urban crawl. In short, flip a coin - it probably won't make a 100 mile difference over the life of the engine. Not that it makes a hoot in a holler's difference in your situation, but I'm still a year around 10W-30 man here in southern California.
Honda's proprietary antifreeze is a very good one. Honda, Toyota, and Nissan all use a variation on GM Dexcool theme of OAT ("organic acid technology"), NO phosphates, and NO silicates. However, unlike Dexcool, the Japanese variation includes a stiff dose of phosphates for additional protection against aluminum corrosion and waterpump cavitation damage - "hybrid" coolant technology. (To my knowledge there're no U.S. aftermarket brands of antifreeze/coolant that attempt to duplicate the Japanese antifreeze formualae.) The bad news is that these Japanese OEM coolants vary from ~$15.00 to ~$20.00 per gallon through the dealerships' parts departments - if you have several Honda delaerships in your area, CALL AROUND for price. Nevertheless, while the car is under warranty, your best bet to protect the warranty, is use what the owner's manual recommends. For future reference, after your new car's off warranty, a hybrid LOW silicate OAT formula such as Zerex G-05 would probably be a safe substitute for the Honda syrup. (The G-05 formula - a BASF development - has been the staple in most high-end European cars for over two decades. It's factory-fill for Mercedes-Benz, BMW, certain VW automobile cooling systems, Current factory-fill in Chrysler and Ford cooling systems, as well as certified by most American diesel engine manufacturers because of its resistance to cavitation damage in wet-cylinder liner heavy-duty engines. About $10.00 per gallon at Pep Boys.)
I'm guilty of driving that fast and faster but I was very lucky nothing ever happened.
Gee, I've read your posts and you are smarter than that!
Is this the infamous 00 v6 tranny problem? I haven't seen any sympoms of tranny problems/any trouble shifting gears before. Currently have around 71K miles on the car.
The same things can happen at speed much less than 100. If you are going to live your life by being afraid of the "what-ifs" then you might as well put a gun to your own head. At least then you'll know what killed you. But even then "what if" the gun misfires and you only succeed in maiming yourself.
Our interstate system was designed for 70 mph travel when cars had solid axles, drum brakes, and didn't even have seat belts. I'm pretty sure my LS400 and Accord EX are improved enough to go a little faster on those same roads. But again, I'm not asking permission or even trying to convince anyone, just making the point that giving a ticket in the name of conservation is stupid.
In fact upon further though...The speed limit is also rather stupid for the same reasons. Why should someone in a car with crash zones, 20 airbags, pre collision systems, etc be required to obey the same speed limits as the driver of a 1984 Chevette? There's something funny about that too.
perhaps if everyone and their vehicles were capable of and doing very high speeds, there'd be less of a chance of a problem due to the speed differentials involved.
the speed limits aren't dictated merely as a function of road design, state of the art vehicle capability, nor the condition/maintenance of your particular vehicle and your particular driving prowness...
remember also, the interstates were designed at a time when the traffic volume and inter-vehicle spacing, vehicle mix and use, etc, etc was much different than it is on many major interstates today.
I could have shot a cannon at times in the 70s and not hit anyone on I-71 through Kentucky/TN to Nashville. Not today.
You are driving on four contact patches that at that speed are smaller than a postcard. Your ability to control for any emergency or failure is nil.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
And if you live in NE Atlanta, you know the average speed on I-285 is approaches 80 mph. Now if people can do those speed with the density in that area, you should be able to do 100 mph on desolate stretches of I-20 and I-16 all day long.
I realize some areas aren't gonna be able to support those speeds. But in Ga for instance, the highways area are relatively straight with a large buffer area. If you hit a deer in the daytime, you weren't paying attention. Whereas in Virginia, you get tunnel vision doing 70 because the interstates there have no buffer area. I bet there is a much higher risk of deer strikes too. Even in the daytime.
There are no absolutes. 100mph can be done with reasonable safety in some areas and 55 is risky in others. Funny thing is you are more likely to get a speeding ticket in areas where it's safest to speed. Such as a lonely, desolate area of highway where speeders are easy pickins.
Going back to original post that started this though...Conservation isn't a reason for more strict speed limit enforcement. But then again, you have to wonder about the safety aspect too considering the widely varying levels of capability on the roads.
have you seen in real-time, ladders, tires, or other vehicle parts comming off of vehicles on 285? i've seen that and folding tables, doors, duct work, metal fence posts, tree limbs and a lot of other stuff comming off of vehicles in my lane or other lanes.
at 80+, you wouldn't have a chance, and if someone swerved to avoid the hazard, you very well might hit them.
i've seen a driver hit a tire and rim at speed on the 75/85 merge in the left most lane, when a vehicle in front of him swerved out of the way but rather late, the guy behind him had about 0 situational awareness of the hazard in front of him or her. the car went completely inverted like one of those stunt rolls... i'm pretty sure, noone lived to collect their stunt driving pay for that one. when it happens to the left of your driver's window, the experience is quite spectacular and scarey. i was 1/2 mile down the road before i processed what had happened.
like i said, your argument doesn't fly in general...
also we aren't living in fear by this awareness, we are being realistic, valuing our lives, and the lives of others.
thanks
Shifty the Host
We discuss this topic monthly in the Inconsiderate Drivers forum.
""The Honda 3 shaft transmissions do have a filter but it is sealed inside the transmission case. The ONLY way to access the filter is to remove and disassemble the transmission. Front wheel drive transmissions such as these have the differential assy built into the transmission case. The differential is lubricated with the transmission fluid inside the transmission. What you can do if you want, is drain and refill (One time) every 6000 miles or so (Every other oil change). Honda fluid is expensive, but you need to use ONLY HONDA FLUID in this transmission. Draining and refilling one of these transmissions is actually much easier than changing your engine oil and filter. I have several customers where I have rebuilt their Honda transmissions who service their transmissions this way.
transman""
Specifically, this: "I have several customers where I have rebuilt their Honda transmissions who service their transmissions this way."
What is he saying? That after he rebuilt their transmissions, they started changing their fluid this way or they changed their fluid this way and he rebuilt their transmissions. It is late so maybe I'm not reading straight.
My daughter has a '99 Accord EX with a 4 cylinder and we had to replace the tranny because of a slow shift and jolt mainly going from 1st to 2nd gear. We took it in for a fluid change and they said there was internal leakage. $2k later and the car is fine. Now, this wasn't a Honda dealer who did it, but a trusted independent business who works on all of my cars. So, after having had transmission problems on both my wife's and my own car (not Hondas), I am going to be very religious about getting the fluid replaced. But every 6k miles? Okay, I can deal with that...if it will give my daughter another 150k or so on her tranny or until she graduates from college and she can get whatever she wants.
But before I do, I need to get clarification on what the master mechanic is saying.
Cars...man oh man. My most reliable vehicle is my 1971 Volkswagen pop-up camper bus. Adjust them valves, change that oil, grease them zerks...and it goes forever. Just not very quickly. But it makes up for all that in that it is great for my wife and I to get intimate in...actually make any journey something a little more savoring.
Since she is in college pursuing her mechanical engineering/materials science degree and spends many hours a week twisting her brain, we decided to fix it so she wouldn't think about it.
$2k later and the problem is gone. Did it ever get worse..not to a great extent...but this thing has to last her until she gets her master's...another 4 years (she's a junior)...so we opted to just fix it.
Other than this and those GM inspired air conditioning/heater plastic rotary knobs that break..it has been a solid car.
So now, when the engine is hot, the level in the tank is right in between MIN and MAX. When it is cold, it is right above MIN.
Should I be worried about leaks in the coolant system since it was below MIN when the engine was cold when I first checked the level? Or is it common that new cars come with not enough coolant?
Also, when should coolant level be checked, when the engine is hot or when the engine is cold?
If it snows where you live, it's cold enough to require 5W-30 during the winter months for adequate oil circulation on first startup. (Engines suffer their greatest wear during cold startup, NOT warm running.) Don't even think about 10W-40 in your Honda - frankly it's an anacronym best left for shot beaters. Consideration of 20W-50 should be a committable offense.
If not, you have a leak somewhere.
As for the "black box"..We drive Hondas here.
http://www.clickondetroit.com/automotive/3786478/detail.html
Our black boxes only record information right before a crash. It doesn't retain a speed history...Yet.
Shifty the Host
Have a Ford F-150 with 110,000 and not one issue. If I have these issues with the '06 it'll be the last Accord I own. Oh, and got $27,800 for the '06 EX-V6 w/Navigation.
Afterward, I test drove another 2006 Accord V6 and I felt a very slight vibration from the engine at low rpm and low gears, but the engine is quite and smoothly. I may go to the other dealer to get the second opinion. Now I just have to live with it, and I am very disappointed about my 2005 Accord V6. *Sign*... :sick:
i guess you should have someone look at that, your alternator and battery. Connections to same.
We have a 2002 Accord with 65K miles on it that is burning oil - but not consistently. Sometimes after a 1000 miles of highway driving, there is no loss of oil at all. At other times after a few days or so of driving to work and back (around 20 miles of back roads, occasional stop/go), I need to add over a quart or more. Once I had to add over 2 quarts after a few weeks.
My 98 Prelude used to burn oil, my S2000 burns oil as well but it's pretty consistent and not like the Accord.
Is it time to trade in the Accord? Can anything be fixed? The car is super clean otherwise and we were planning to drive it to the ground but not sure anymore.
Thanks!
Rings are $$ to replace, but seals should be alot less.
If you read info on what is cheaper, repairing a car, or replacing, the repairing always seems to win.
I'm curious, how often did you change oil? What brand of oil do you use? 60k isn't that many miles, I would expect you should not be having oil burning problems for a long time.
Mrbill
But the Accord isn't consistant and that makes no sense.
Valve guides and seals aren't going to wear after 65,000 miles and neither are the rings.
I would take it in for a leakdown test.
I'm wondering also...how often is the oil changed? did the car ever overheat?
Any suggestions on weather this is a good price or not and has anyone tried to fix damage to the rear fiberglass vs replacing it.
Thanks
Larry