All you gotta do is get a flathead screwdriver and pop the whole clock out. Then you disconnect it from the back, and plug in the new one. Its really easy. I have a 2000 EX too
My '84 Accord has 176,000 miles on it. Until the other day, I was having no problems with it whatsoever. The other day I noticed it missing on idle, and a slight loss of power throughout the rpm range. I checked the plugs, which only have about 6,000 miles on them. They were fine. I replaced the plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor, but none of this helped.
I took it to a local maintenance shop. I explained to the mechanic what it was doing, and what I had replaced. He said it sounded like a vacuum leak. He called me few hours later and told me it had bad valve because it only had 25 lbs. of compression in the #1 cylinder. I asked him about pulling the head and doing a valve job, but he said if I do that, the engine will start burning oil. He said my only options were to reaplce the engine, or look for another car. I don't want to replace the engine, because I only paid $1,100 for the car. Replacing the engine would cost more than that. Why would doing a valve job make the engine burn oil? Are these really the only options I have?
Here are the message numbers that will answer your question on how to replace the cabin air filter: 1883,1885, 1892 and 1951. I also found out its a good idea to remove the battery cables because there is a chance you can hit the air bag sensors, I changed the 2 filters without removing the cables because I was'nt aware of this and had no problem but its wise to be safe.
Your car is eighteen years old with 176,000 miles.
Maybe it's simply time to say adios and move on.
Opening up that engine could be a can of worms...one thing leads to another, etc...
But, if the rest of the car is REALLY nice, you might consider having a good used engne installed if you can find one. Be sure you see the compression readings.
It's just that 176 grand isn't that many miles for a Honda, especially considering the car ran perfectly prior to this problem, it didn't leak any fluids, and it didn't use a drop of oil. I hate to think the entire engine is now trash just because of one valve.
Also, a friend of mine has had several Hondas, all of them had more than 300 grand on them when he sold them. They all ran fine, none used any oil, and the only maintenance he did was the ususal preventitive stuff, and the occasional water pump and timing belt. None of these engines were touched internally.
Jees... I have a 2000 v6 accord with 55k miles on it. About 3 months ago, i had to replace my thermostat cuz my car kept overheating. a week ago, I had my transmission replaced. NOW, my car is once overheating again and I am pissed off. Off to the mechanics I go... Anyone know what might be the problem? I think that the guy i went to originally to fix my thermostat did a $hitty job on my car.
Has anyone else had problems with their airbag system on their 97 Honda Wagon? My light went on last summer, I took it to the Honda dealer, they scanned the airbag system on a machine which turned the SRS light off ($46)and told me it could be a permanent fix of the airbag system or it might be temporary. Unfortuneatly it was temporary and they quoted me a price of around $600 to replace the system. A person working in the Honda parts dept (who I met socially) told me that there had been other problems with the 97 Honda airbag systems. Thanks, Janice
55000 miles is a lot in two years (or less), no? I'm sorry you are having troubles but you've got more use than some people get in five years.
I hope you didn't get the tranny replaced because of the overheating problem. Believe it or not it may be something as simple as the gauge (that was my problem when I was overheating). Also it could be the cooling fan. Is it really overheating or is the gauge just going into the red? Hopefully they will fix it to your liking.
You guys wanna know what the problem was???? My radiator was filled with coolant only half way... I'm guessing those guys at hondaworld did something wrong while installing my new tranny... Well, I hope this problem dont come back. I got tranny replaced cuz of hard shifts and slipping of the clutch
I know dude, i'm a retard... The problem was sooo simple, and I didn't even think about that... It's because I was relying on professionals to take care of the basic crap, but i still should have read the manual. Thanks 4 reminder, now evertime Something goes wrong, I'll look at the manual and think, "Remember that dude who made fun of your dumbass??". Thanks... = )
I own a 2000 Accord EX V6 coupe. I like the car a lot, but the transmission bothers me somewhat. First of all, I realize that Honda's automatic transmissions are inherently harsher than, say, the domestics. My 1991 Pontiac Grand Am was much smoother as is my dad's '98 Ranger and '00 LeSabre. Fine.
What bothers me is the initial shift quality of my Accord's tranny after it's been sitting for several hours, most noticeably overnight. In the morning when I first drive the car, the first time it shifts it is very jerky. After that first shift it smooths out to a normal shift quality for my car. The colder it is outside the harder it shifts.
Does anyone else notice this? Is there a problem here or is this normal and the tranny fluid just needs to warm up first? If it is normal, than why don't I notice this happening in domestic cars. Their tranny fluid needs to warm up too, right?
I experience the same thing with my 2000 EX V-6 sedan... most often when I leave work, because I get on to a busy 50 MPH road right away, so I usually have to move out fairly quickly to merge into traffic. The first 1-2 shift is pretty harsh, but as you said, it smooths out quickly.
When I leave home, I'm in a 25 MPH area for about 3/4 mile, and the shift quality feels normal at the lower speeds. By the time I get to a faster road, the shifting is already smooth.
And yes, the colder the temp, the more noticeable this is.
I can't explain why the domestics don't do this while the Accord does. Other than that, though, I like the shift quality of the Accord... fits in well with its more athletic personality.
I just purchased a used 2000 Accord LX with a 5 speed. I know they are supposed to get about 420 miles to the tank but I seem to only get around 320. Any thoughts? Thanks.
I have 2000 Accord V6 Coupe, and I have a weird shift jerk only when I back up from a parking space and put it back in drive, other than that it's tip-top once it's on the road. Any similar occurances? As far as mileage, the best I've ever gotten on a road trip is 27, on a good day, 24, and most of the time 21-22. My daily usual drive includes about 10 miles of back and forth city driving, and about 30 miles of straight highway driving. I've been to the dealer before for a check and they said it all looked good. I also have a Squeak/Rattle I experience only when it's cold in the morning coming from the rear window area. It is like sooooo annoying,---has anyone ever had that happen to them? Oh and my leather seat backings have been both replaced, and the driver's bottom is on order due to tears at the seams. And last summer they had to repair my front bumper cuz the paint was falling off cuz of a defect. Needless to say I'm not the happiest customer, but they have taken care of me on the seats and bumper. Nothing major, but annoying as all heck! Did I get a lemon? What could that darn squeak be? Thanks for any input......................
First time posting but I have been monitoring this forum for over two years. I have to admit that I am concerned that my 1998 LX V6 Sedan may develop transmission problems in the future. I have had my share of "small" problems (rattle in the dash - fuse box was loose - and power driver's seat that would not work on occasion - a new power seat unit solved the problem) that were significant enough to pursue repeated trips to the dealer. However in sum, I have to admit that I am impressed with the build quality of my Honda. While one should not believe everything written, the latest Consumer Reports (April '02 Car Issue) shows current generation Accord transmissions ('98 through '01) have the highest reliability rating - less than 2% of owners experience a problem significant enough to warrant repair. I mention this not to discount the awful experience of others but to offer another perspective to those contemplating the purchase of a current generation Accord. I will be the first to admit that a transmission failure, or engine sludging, would change my perception immediately and not for the better. Nevertheless, my Honda has done well for me so far.
Did you guys ever notice that the majority of complaints on this board are from V6 auto's??? Nobody with a 4banger automatic has complained. i'm talking about the newer accords. 98~02
...has been completely trouble-free and a delight to drive in every respect. It is much tighter, quieter, and more relaxed on the road than our '98 LX 4 cyl...some of that is the engine difference, and some of it is the improved sound deadening they added for '01.
Fuel consumption on our fully-broken-in car is 20-22 in suburban runaround mode, and 26-29 on trips at 80 mph. Since this, and the truly sparkling performance, is achieved with the cheapest 87 octane available, I find nothing to complain about.
This morning I folded both rear-seat backs forward to see if it was the problem, and nope. It seems to be coming from the rear-deck speaker/window area. I don't know what it could be but it's driving me crazy!! It seems to be worse during colder temeratures such as the morning or late evening. Any ideas would be appreciated..................... Fuel Consumption: You guys that are getting "26-29 at 80mph", I envy you. I have trouble getting 22 on any day, with any type of trip.
got close to 30MPG if I was just cruising along the highway at 80. Around town, with my tendency to be a little heavy with the right foot, it went down to the low 20's.
My tire pressure is fine and I don't really have a lead-foot. Also, it's mostly highway driving at about 80 mph. It just seems a little strange that with a 4 cyl I'm only getting around 19 miles/gallon.
Wow! I get between 24 and 28 mpg, depending on where I'm driving. I don't recall ever getting less than 23, and I usually get around 26 mpg tank after tank. And I have a V6 Accord. I can't believe something isn't wrong if you are stuck around 20 mpg, especially with a 4-banger.
I even get 21 with my V6. And I'm not exactly a granpa driver, but I don't slingshot every time the light turns green either. I used to have a 5spd Accord, and I was getting closer to the mid 30's. This is the first car I have that I get such lousy mileage as far as it's rated, and what other people get. I could easily sacrifice 2-3mpg, and drive a V-8 SUV for cris-sakes!!! Do you all suppose there could be something fishy with my car? I can't even get 23 at best?!
Have you taken it on the highway? My feeling is if you can get the highway mileage rated there really isn't an issue. In town driving is murder on mileage, I used to get 18 or 19 in my '01 V6. My father has a Corolla that basically goes two miles when it is driven, he gets much lower milage than the rating. But when he takes it on the highway it does very well. Even my four banger CR-V does poorly in the city but on the highway it has been good (at least so far).
Something's definitely wrong somewhere! My 2001 LXV6 (3,900 miles) gives me 21-22 mpg when driving in the city (New York)and 29-31 mpg on the highway (even with the ac on!) while my 1988 LX (117,000 miles) gives me 24-25 mpg in the city and 31-32 mpg on the highway.
My 98 I4 Auto gives me 25 average. My driving is metro urban/suburban with a short highway run of 10 miles at 65-70 and 8 miles of lights, etc. I also get in a weekly run of 150 miles highway at similar speeds.
What you are getting sounds pretty good to me - how do you drive on the highway? I know that if I exceed the above by much, my mileage will drop 1-2 mpg.
The absolutely very best I've EVER gotten was 27mpg on a 300+ mile road trip. My normal driving includes a 30 mile highway trip at about 65-70, and about 10 miles worth of back and forth city driving--with this I get 21-22 and that's it, no better! I rarely get 23-24 only if I go to the next city on the weekends which is 65 miles of freeway driving. I swear! If I get a V-8 powered Tahoe or Yukon, I'd maybe lose 3-4mpg at most! It sickens me! Honda's used to have the rep for the best gas mileage. I have an aunt that drives a supercharged Grand Prix, and she gets 29!
I also have a 2001 Dodge Ram truck, and I average about 14, and it is the OffRoad package with 17inch wheels! GM trucks/suv's actually are rated higher than the Dodge, so I'm bound to get at least 16mpg with the 5.3! The Accord and the Dodge both take me 300miles per tank give or take, but the Dodge only takes 8-10 bucks more to fill up when empty!!! I'm convinced my Accord is not right, I traded a 2000 4cyl for it, and I used to get 33mpg on it, and I didn't drive that one any different than this one plus that one was a 4-door. I regret that move, but I can't see where I would lose 12mpg from the 4 to the 6!
I have a 2001 4cyl 5spd and have never gotten below 26 mpg, even in negative degree weather when I have to warm up the engine. Something does seem wrong. In the past I have seen drops in mileage in other vehicles and I just switched gas stations and it fixed the problem. Also, I had a 4runner in which the oxygen sensors went out prematurely and caused the engine to run rich resulting in low gas mileage. Have you taken this up with honda yet? I'm sure they will just say that it is within the 'norm' as toyota told me when I was getting 9 mpg in my V6 18-20 mpg consuming Toyota. Also, check to see if your gas stations use oxygenated gas in the winter. That will reduce gas mileage 1-4 mpg.
Actually I have taken it to Honda and they hooked it up and said it all looked normal. No codes. I use Chevron 100% of the time. I thought it was supposed to be pretty good gas, what do you think?
I average 22, 24 around town on my 2000 V6, best on open road around 26. I am not a stickler when it comes to exact math but its close. To answer your question gas does matter. Live in Jersey I found Amoco, Exxon reqular to give best milage in my V6. When I use Sunoco,Getty, Hess, Gulf,Coastal, etc. milage drops about 3 miles per gallon. Try other brands until you find the right one. Hope this helps you.
well, for that gas mileage problem, i get only around 260m for 13gal tank on my 2002 accord coupe ex-l. but i drive lots of short repeated trips in local so i don't really think there's anything wrong. but i do have a problem which the engine noise, the engine makes a whistling noise as accelerating and stopping, well i can't hear it all the time, but at night when i close all the windows and turned off the stereo and drive around my house with slow acceleration the noise is pretty obvious, a very high-tone whistling noise. well i just wanna know if it's normal. cuz i can live with it but it's better without it. my car currectly has 9,100 miles, oh, and one thing, the noise wasn't there when i test drive and the first day i bought it, it's been there since the 2nd day of my ownership.
Yeah, definitely try different brands of gas. I notice a difference in mileage depending on what gas I use. Not that any particular brand is better than others for everybody, but cars seem to prefer certain brands better. You may be surprised at the difference.
I have a 2001 GMC Yukon and a 1997 Accord SE with the 4 cylinder. I am simply amazed at the gas mileage comparison between the two vehicles. I average 16.2 with the Yukon and 23 with the Honda. I think the difference is I have to horse the Accord to fit with my driving needs, while the Yukon's power suits my style better. I will sacrifice 7 miles to the gallon any day of the week for the comfort and safety the Yukon offers. The Honda has been a great car though. It only has 45,000 on it so I'm hoping I have many years to go with it!!
See, that's what I'm saying! My Honda's getting 21, so I am like SO willing to sacrifice 5mpg for a fullsize tahoe or yukon! I want to do it soon. Is your Yukon a 4x4? That $2002 cash back just ended too. How hard is it to get GM dealers closer to invoice? I know Dodge dealers are easy, heck, there's even a couple dealers out there that advertise invoice online, but GM seems to drive a harder bargain. Are you fairly happy with your Yukon overall? I would love to have one for my Honda. I mean other than the mileage the honda's a good car but I'd love more room and the ability to tow my boat or go camping/hunting/fishing, and stuff like that. Thanks for your input Stump21!
I have also heard that Chevron is good gas so I used it for about 4 months in my 4runner in WA and noticed decreased gas mileage of 2-3 mpg. I switched back to Conoco (Available in at least the Northwest) and my gas mileage shot back up. I have also tried Texaco and Amoco in CO and still find my best mileage to be with Conoco. Switch around for a few months (at least 3 tanks), that is, if you can hold out that long without selling it. My best gas mileage in the 2001 Accord happened in the summer at 75mph averaging 34.5 mpg which would result in almost 600 miles on a tank of 17 gal. I average 28-30 mpg in the city in the summer so I can easily justify the switch I made from my 2001 Pathfinder V6 4x4 (15 mpg max). I rarely fill my tank before 440 miles (unless it's really cold) I have the 4 cyl VTEC engine and I DO use the VTEC more often then I should.
Help guys, another problem with my car... Well, i noticed my car overheated, so i took it in to the shop and the guy said, "NO COOLANT IN RADIATOR." I'm sure there's a leak, but we couldn't find one. I also notice that when i turn the air on, or the a/c, it smells like coolant. even if i have the vents open, it smells like coolant. BUT, there is no coolant on the floor in the morning AND it doens't smell like coolant when i pop the hood. Any suggestions? i'm taking it back to honda dealership on tuesday. thanks for any help!
Yes, my Yukon is a 4X4 with the 5.3L motor. It is an SLT with a sunroof and the third seat. I did not get the running boards because I put Westin nerf bars on it. I paid $34,500 and got 2.9% for 60 months. Has been a good truck so far. GM dealers are always willing to deal. I better stop talking Yukon stuff on a Accord topic!
Comments
I took it to a local maintenance shop. I explained to the mechanic what it was doing, and what I had replaced. He said it sounded like a vacuum leak. He called me few hours later and told me it had bad valve because it only had 25 lbs. of compression in the #1 cylinder. I asked him about pulling the head and doing a valve job, but he said if I do that, the engine will start burning oil. He said my only options were to reaplce the engine, or look for another car. I don't want to replace the engine, because I only paid $1,100 for the car. Replacing the engine would cost more than that. Why would doing a valve job make the engine burn oil? Are these really the only options I have?
Maybe it's simply time to say adios and move on.
Opening up that engine could be a can of worms...one thing leads to another, etc...
But, if the rest of the car is REALLY nice, you might consider having a good used engne installed if you can find one. Be sure you see the compression readings.
Also, a friend of mine has had several Hondas, all of them had more than 300 grand on them when he sold them. They all ran fine, none used any oil, and the only maintenance he did was the ususal preventitive stuff, and the occasional water pump and timing belt. None of these engines were touched internally.
The older ones didn't do this as well as the newer ones...
So, your head gets pulled...hmmm, the machine shop finds it has a crack in it...time for another head.
The engine gets reassembled and the compression boost causes the rings to blowby and the car now smokes.
I mean, a simple valve job MIGHT get the car running well again, who knows?
I was simply trying to point out some of the pitfalls that happen pretty often.
Is the body and interior cherry? If so, it might be worth trying a valve job.
Good luck!
In cases like this it's hard to know what to do sometimes.
Again, good luck...let us know what happens!
Thanks,
Janice
I hope you didn't get the tranny replaced because of the overheating problem. Believe it or not it may be something as simple as the gauge (that was my problem when I was overheating). Also it could be the cooling fan. Is it really overheating or is the gauge just going into the red? Hopefully they will fix it to your liking.
zoe15
I've seen and sold many 97 Accords and have heard of no air bag problems.
One has to wonder what *really* happened or if anything happened at all...
What bothers me is the initial shift quality of my Accord's tranny after it's been sitting for several hours, most noticeably overnight. In the morning when I first drive the car, the first time it shifts it is very jerky. After that first shift it smooths out to a normal shift quality for my car. The colder it is outside the harder it shifts.
Does anyone else notice this? Is there a problem here or is this normal and the tranny fluid just needs to warm up first? If it is normal, than why don't I notice this happening in domestic cars. Their tranny fluid needs to warm up too, right?
When I leave home, I'm in a 25 MPH area for about 3/4 mile, and the shift quality feels normal at the lower speeds. By the time I get to a faster road, the shifting is already smooth.
And yes, the colder the temp, the more noticeable this is.
I can't explain why the domestics don't do this while the Accord does. Other than that, though, I like the shift quality of the Accord... fits in well with its more athletic personality.
As far as mileage, the best I've ever gotten on a road trip is 27, on a good day, 24, and most of the time 21-22. My daily usual drive includes about 10 miles of back and forth city driving, and about 30 miles of straight highway driving. I've been to the dealer before for a check and they said it all looked good.
I also have a Squeak/Rattle I experience only when it's cold in the morning coming from the rear window area. It is like sooooo annoying,---has anyone ever had that happen to them?
Oh and my leather seat backings have been both replaced, and the driver's bottom is on order due to tears at the seams. And last summer they had to repair my front bumper cuz the paint was falling off cuz of a defect. Needless to say I'm not the happiest customer, but they have taken care of me on the seats and bumper. Nothing major, but annoying as all heck! Did I get a lemon? What could that darn squeak be? Thanks for any input......................
Fuel consumption on our fully-broken-in car is 20-22 in suburban runaround mode, and 26-29 on trips at 80 mph. Since this, and the truly sparkling performance, is achieved with the cheapest 87 octane available, I find nothing to complain about.
Fuel Consumption: You guys that are getting "26-29 at 80mph", I envy you. I have trouble getting 22 on any day, with any type of trip.
What you are getting sounds pretty good to me - how do you drive on the highway? I know that if I exceed the above by much, my mileage will drop 1-2 mpg.
I swear! If I get a V-8 powered Tahoe or Yukon, I'd maybe lose 3-4mpg at most! It sickens me! Honda's used to have the rep for the best gas mileage. I have an aunt that drives a supercharged Grand Prix, and she gets 29!
I'm convinced my Accord is not right, I traded a 2000 4cyl for it, and I used to get 33mpg on it, and I didn't drive that one any different than this one plus that one was a 4-door. I regret that move, but I can't see where I would lose 12mpg from the 4 to the 6!
Other possibilities are endless - that's why you have a dealer service dept.