I don't know if this has anything to do with break-in period, but upon acceleration, I am getting a stumble around 3000-4000 rpms. I have a manual tranny and it is not something that is specific to any gear selection. Power delivery is smooth other than that, just a stutter that is annoying more than anything. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks
P.S. I had a 98 that I don't recall having the same issue.
Jack the beast up and use a jack stand for safety reasons and see if you can see any indications they screwed around with the bolts holding it on. Maybe you can tighten it back up if they just loosened the bolts. If the leak is just a little bit-put one of those aluminum turkey roasting pans or a piece of cardboard under where you park the car. $200 will buy lots of oil.
Frankly never heard of dealers doing this one-cutting CV boots is the most common. Obviously never go back to these people again. Betcha it is a big city dealer.
I have a 97 Accord Coupe with 63000 miles. It's an automatic, 4 cyl 2.2 liter engine. I've had not trouble with it until recently. It stalled on me as I was turning a corner about a month ago. And the the past couple of weeks it has happened several more times.
It seems pretty random, happens when engine is cold or warm. It's happened while pulling into a parking place, turning a corner, driving through Taco Bell, when I started accelerating to pass someone going about 35, once while going up a pretty steep hill. At first I thought it happened in wet weather but it seems to be doing it all the time now.
The check engine light never comes on and I haven't noticed any other problems. I started using Premium gas like the dealer suggested and it's still doing it.
I've had it to a dealer twice and they can't find anything! It's pretty annoying and I'm sure its none too safe. Any ideas or suggestions would be wonderful!!! THANKS in advance.
leomaccord: I had a 99 EX 5-speed and it did the same thing at the same RPM's. Someone explained it to me once but I forgot the reason they gave. I put 40,000 miles on my Accord in less than 2 years and it never gave me any problems so I would't worry about it.
I bought a used 97 Accord SE and was surprised that after getting a flat, the mechanic showed me that the inner groove is worn out. It only had 48,000 miles in it and after buying 4 new tires, I went to their recommended garage to have it align. Now the person in the garage told me that the alignment is on specs and no adjustment is needed. If not the alignment then what could have cause this? Thanks in advance for the advice.
There is a emissions control warranty recall on this vehicle which will pay for replacing the plugs, plug wires, distributor and of all things an oil change. Amazing the dealer did not know this. IF you get this performed and it still is a problem, then it must be in the fuel or FI system.
I still have the paper work which gives the code for this procedure which I had done on my 97 I4 accord. If the dealer is reluctant to perform this warranty work-go someplace else. I think the recall is good till 150K but sounds like you need an answer now.
Canadiancl, I forgot to indicate that it was the rear left tire that had a flat. When I 1st got this car after driving several miles, I had the old tires balanced and rotated where they placed the now worn tire at the back in the same shop where I got the new tires and they never told me about any irregular wear and had drove it for around 11,000 more miles before getting the flat and discovering the worn out groove. On a side note after the rotation on the old tires it felt like the wheels were drifting a little to the right. I was told by a Honda dealer that it's just normal for front wheel drive.
Thanks for the input. I didn't think it was anything to worry about. Hopefully it works itself out during breakin. These are excellent cars that love to be driven. Put +90,000 on my 98 LX and I didn't have to do anything except T/B/O. I was stupid to trade it in on my now-EX-wifes Highlander... Won't do that one again...
Has anyone had a problem with their RPMs shooting up and down erractically? Just yesterday it did that from 1000 to 800 RPMs for several mins, which totally freaked me out. Has anyone also had a mileage problem with their Accord V6, I'm averaging 10.4 miles per gallon, the owner's manaul says 20 miles for local driving.
Could you have had the defroster or the A/C on. The A/C automtically comes on in defrost mode until you manually shutit off. I guess it works the same as my LX without climate control. Or it may be related to the poor mpg's you're getting. I get 20 mpg in my 2k v6 city driving.
Even with a lead foot, I think 10.4 would be impossible in an Accord! Was that measured over a whole tank of fuel, or was it a guestimate based on where the fuel gauge is?
If it's really that low, there is definitely a problem!
I've seen a couple of scattered reports about this, but I've never seen a resolution - the driver's side seat in my 2001 EX sedan makes a pretty annoying creaking sound.
The service guys said that it was the styrofoam in the seat rubbing against the metal frame. They've claimed that they have replaced the frame and cushions twice now, but the problem keeps coming back within a couple of days. The service advisor says that he can't fully explain what is wrong, but the parts just aren't lining up right.
Since they've replaced the frame and cushions, what else is there to replace? What else should I ask about? Should I start making noise with somebody higher than the service department at the local dealer?
I have a 94 Honda Accord EX Coupe with 114,000 miles on it. Recently, I have noticed a clicking sound from the front while turning? Happens whether the car is cold or has been driven for awhile. Has anyone had this sorta problem also and can offer any help on what it is, and how to fix it. Thank you for any advice!!
Got 4 brand new BFG Precept for my 97 accord and when ever I'm driving on a freeway around 65 to 70 miles I felt that the car seems to be swaying at the rear. I went to an alignment specialist and they say that the alignment is fine. The tire store even change all of the tires to brand new but is still doing it. Is the groove on the Precept not compatible with this honda or is there something else?
Well, not anytime soon anyways. Actually, while the highlander is a decent vehicle, I wasn't thrilled with it. I've never driven an RX, so I'm not sure if the +5K in savings comes in the form of sloppy steering, rattles and an aweful sound system. My Ex loved it, so maybe it's directed more towards women (which I suspect is the case) I prefer more of a "drivers car" and while the Accord is no S2K, it does have plenty of pickup and the best steering this side of the 3 series...
And as far as the wife, well she had a few rattles too and a really bad sound system that I couldn't turn the volume down!
If you hear anything else with your driver's seat problem, could you share it? I haven't talked to my dealer yet, but I'm experiencing the same problem with my 2000 EX V-6 sedan.
A few days ago I noticed that my 2000 Accord SE (automatic) has started giving off a smell as if something is burning or smoldering under the hood after driving for at least 10 minutes or so. I only smell it when I stop, not while it's running, and it's much stronger outside the car than in. It's not the usual smell you get after oil changes when a little oil drips onto the exhaust, although it's about that strong - more like plastic getting hot. My first thought was that a plastic bag got caught on the exhaust, but I don't see one, although I haven't had it on a lift. Last service was at 45K miles - oil change and coolant flush. Mileage is now over 46K. It's hard to narrow down where it's coming from, it disappears quickly when I open the hood and doesn't seem to happen when I'm just idling. Seems to be on the driver's side though - can't smell it on the passenger side at all. Oil, transmission fluid and coolant levels and colors appear normal. No smoke or obvious drips either. Car runs fine otherwise. Any suggestions on what else to check before I bring it to the shop?
I'm starting to think that Honda is just making poor quality seats and doesn't care what we think. See my post #2400 regarding my 2002 LxV6 seat. This is the result of BAD DESIGN by Honda and there seems to be little that the dealers can do to fix it.
robr2 probably has it correctly, the cv joints are known to click on turns at first but will even do it straight ahead eventualy when they are bad. Chances are the boot is torn and the joint has lost its greese.
sflora Still sounds like a plastic bag on the exhaust as we see and smell alot of these...
Thanks for the help, In lue of buying a new car, i have decided to keep my Honda and fix it up a bit. I will be taking it to the shop to reapir this problem plus have a thourough check done on the car. Thanks again! Talk to you soon.
...that's pretty much what I figured. I'll watch it for awhile more. Guess I'm a little paranoid, I once had a car that had a bad electrical short under the hood causing the wire insulation to catch fire and melt down. Of course, that was a 16-year-old Chevy Monza!
This is an "Accord Problems" board. In Town Hall there is a section on Coupes. There you will find a discussion on the Accord Coupe specifically. Navigate around a bit and you should find it. Hope this helps.
During one of my visits to my Honda dealer, one of the guys there suggests a fuel injector flush for my Accord 2.3 2000 at $150!
I happened to notice that there are a lot of fuel injector cleaners sold in the market, are these cleaners good enough for me to use on my car and skip the expensive advice from these sales folks?
During one of my visits to my Honda dealer, one of the guys there suggests a fuel injector flush for my Accord 2.3 2000 at $150!
I happened to notice that there are a lot of fuel injector cleaners sold in the market, are these cleaners good enough for me to use on my car and skip the expensive advice from these sales folks?
My '92 Accord with 150,000 miles just developed a leak on the top of the ABS pump (under hood on passenger side). There appears to be a hole above the bleed valve where it's leaking. I was told by a friend that this indicates a bad pump, kind of like when a water pump leaks before it fails. Is this accurate, and if so can it be rebuilt, or fixed? Thanks for the help.
It depends on what system they are using and if you trust what they are saying. There is a system that has you remove the incoming fuel line, disable the fuel pump and has you use the cleaner(under presure)to run the car and clean the injectors.This system is better because it is more of a concentrated cleaner mix that is going directly through the injectors and spraying the backsides of the valve at normal fuel presure. The other kinds of fuel injection services in my opinion are not as good. They usally have you inject the cleaner solution through a manifold vacuum source (which may clean a stream down the intake but not much else)into the cylynder past an open valve(maybe touching the valve maybe not) under no presure, then burning away. Then they also have you add an additive in the fuel tank that does the actual cleaning of the injectors and valves under a diluted fuel mix. So if the type of system used is the secound way then just buying some over the counter cleaner would be just fine. I like Techron if it is available in you area. Honda as of now doesn't have a recomendation for when if at all this should be done so it comes down to what you want and can afford for your car. Hope I answered you question without giving you more things to think about..:)
I haven't heard about that one but I don't and can't know all. However I have seen alot of these systems leak from the top due to the fluid level being over filled and coming out of the top. I would excersise the abs to see if it works and represurizes in a timely fashion and if so not worry about it right now. To excersise the system find some dirt or slippery surface, make sure the coast is clear,seat belt on, and come to a panic stop and see if the pedal pulsates and you stay under control or if you slide.If it pulsates then listen to see if you hear the pump run and shut of within 15 seconds or so. If you are not comfortable with this method then bring it in to a shop and have them run a diagnoses of the system..Good luck and I will try and check on that weep hole theory...
Save yourself the money, and buy "STP Complete Fuel System Cleaner". It's about $6.95 at Wal-Mart. Consumer reports has given it their blessing and have "before and after" pictures to prove that it works. I've used it on several makes of cars with no problems. The instructions say to use it no more than every 4000 miles. I start using it at about 15,000 miles ( fuel system begins to REALLY get dirty by then... ), and then every 5,000 miles thereafter. Do whatever you feel is best, but I think the fuel system flush is a service department rip-off...
i don't know if anybody thinks so, but i think the 4cylinder ULEV engines in the accords now is too noisy, i recently drove my friend's new CR-V and it was much better than mine, under the exact same driving conditions, you can barely hear the CR-V's engine running, but mine makes a lot more noises. one thing tho, at high RPMs the CR-V doesn't sound as good as accord, it sounds kinda cheap, like a toy.
Does anyone else have the same problem? I have a 2002 accord, and in the mornings, until the car is driven for a couple of mins, I can feel a thumping vibration, it's really hard to explain, it's kinda like a jumping coming from the car.
warm up the car till the needle pass the C line everytime before you drive, especialy in the mornings and nights. although you don't HAVE to do it, but hey, it's your car, your money. and maybe you wanna do what's the best for it.
is a service offered by many Honda delaers now-even my small town Honda dealer's service dept tried to talk me into this one. I looked at my young service tech when he said, "It will take care of that RPM flutter you now have". Well I told him we both know there is no flutter and I also told him I would not ask him how much was his spiff for getting someone to have this procedure performed. He laughed. The product they use is offered by 3M only through dealers.
Have heard good things about Techron-but if it ain't broke-don't fix it. Carry a bottle of Techron in my trunk but no EFI problems yet.
I have 2000 Accord that makes a terrible noise while shifting from Park or Drive to Reverse. I am almost certain it comes from tranny. Any advise or have you heard o this problem before?
Thanks Cokane! I let my car warm up eveery morning, but I don't ever look at the needle, tomorrow I will make sure it's above the C. I have been looking at other peoples problems on other message boards, and I guess it's "normal", but personally I don't find anything normal about it. Do you have the same problem? If so, what year and model do you have? I am going to try your suggestion tomorrow morning and see what happens. I'll let you know.
The best way to warm up a car is to drive it. Let it sit for maybe 20 seconds (to make sure everything is circulating) after you start and go. No hard acceleration, etc. until it is warmed up. All you are doing by letting it warm up in your garage or driveway is wasting gas. And it is actually bad for the vehicle, IMO (although plenty of car experts will say the same thing).
Read back in this forum and the honda accord thread. Several people have already discussed this issue. If I remember correctly, some 2000 v6 trans had this problem. I have an I-4 and haven't noticed this problem.
I have a '01 Sedan with the Michelins which I am mostly happy with. The only problem is they seem especially loud over rough pavement. Does anyone else have this issue or is it the car itself?
i haven't heard much of a difference between the different engines that honda has put out, but then again, mine and my boyfriend's civic both have cold air intakes and growl anyway (which i love) and i'm not in my parents or brothers cars enough to really tell. i guess i don't notice it because it isn't something that would bother me. sorry.
The MXV4+'s on my '98 EX V6 are loud as you stated and also subject to "radial runout". That is, they will fall over during high speed turns or very sharp turns. That's the screeching noise you hear when trying to make the car perform. The dry traction seems to be very good, but the wet traction is only so so.
I now thinking of changing to better tires when these wear out in about 10-15K more miles. Although I haven't made a final decision, the Dunlop Sport A2's are my current favorite. They are "H" rated tires (the Michelin MXV4+'s are "V" rated), much quieter, have better traction, and are supposed to be better performers.
You can go to tiretrack.com to compare various brands and attributes of tires.
Check out Michelin X-one-vastly better tire than the MXV4. Somewhat quieter over rough road, no squalling on corners and dramatically better wet/snow performance.
read the ratings on tire rack for the MXV4, X-one and any other tires you are considering.
When it came time to replace the stock MX's I went with some Michelin Pilots. I was able to step up to a little wider stance carrying the same profile. It made a significant difference in handling characteristics, not 3-series significant, but better. handled really well in dry and wet, but lost points in the snow. Also at $120 a pop, I thought they were pretty reasonable in price, actually only 10 dollars more...
Comments
Thanks
P.S. I had a 98 that I don't recall having the same issue.
Frankly never heard of dealers doing this one-cutting CV boots is the most common. Obviously never go back to these people again. Betcha it is a big city dealer.
It seems pretty random, happens when engine is cold or warm. It's happened while pulling into a parking place, turning a corner, driving through Taco Bell, when I started accelerating to pass someone going about 35, once while going up a pretty steep hill. At first I thought it happened in wet weather but it seems to be doing it all the time now.
The check engine light never comes on and I haven't noticed any other problems. I started using Premium gas like the dealer suggested and it's still doing it.
I've had it to a dealer twice and they can't find anything! It's pretty annoying and I'm sure its none too safe. Any ideas or suggestions would be wonderful!!! THANKS in advance.
" It never leaked oil until you guys fixed the brakes"
That Accord is almost ten years old and it has 130,000 miles on it! Not at all unusual to have a oil pan gasket start to leak a bit.
I think it would be highly doubtful that the shop tampered with it, still, I guess that *could* happen.
You can keep a close eye on it or get it fixed. It may not get much worse for awhile.
Myself, I try to stay on top of the little things. I would probably get it fixed so I wouldn't have to think about it.
Do keep an eye on your oil level.
Were those the front tires. Maybe the previous owner cornered hard and had worn out the outside part of the tread and then flipped the tires around.
I still have the paper work which gives the code for this procedure which I had done on my 97 I4 accord. If the dealer is reluctant to perform this warranty work-go someplace else. I think the recall is good till 150K but sounds like you need an answer now.
I forgot to indicate that it was the rear left tire that had a flat. When I 1st got this car after driving several miles, I had the old tires balanced and rotated where they placed the now worn tire at the back in the same shop where I got the new tires and they never told me about any irregular wear and had drove it for around 11,000 more miles before getting the flat and discovering the worn out groove. On a side note after the rotation on the old tires it felt like the wheels were drifting a little to the right. I was told by a Honda dealer that it's just normal for front wheel drive.
Thanks again
Or it may be related to the poor mpg's you're getting. I get 20 mpg in my 2k v6 city driving.
If it's really that low, there is definitely a problem!
The service guys said that it was the styrofoam in the seat rubbing against the metal frame. They've claimed that they have replaced the frame and cushions twice now, but the problem keeps coming back within a couple of days. The service advisor says that he can't fully explain what is wrong, but the parts just aren't lining up right.
Since they've replaced the frame and cushions, what else is there to replace? What else should I ask about? Should I start making noise with somebody higher than the service department at the local dealer?
Thanks in advance for any help!
But I'll let auburn give his professional experience.
Well, not anytime soon anyways. Actually, while the highlander is a decent vehicle, I wasn't thrilled with it. I've never driven an RX, so I'm not sure if the +5K in savings comes in the form of sloppy steering, rattles and an aweful sound system. My Ex loved it, so maybe it's directed more towards women (which I suspect is the case) I prefer more of a "drivers car" and while the Accord is no S2K, it does have plenty of pickup and the best steering this side of the 3 series...
And as far as the wife, well she had a few rattles too and a really bad sound system that I couldn't turn the volume down!
sflora
Still sounds like a plastic bag on the exhaust as we see and smell alot of these...
During one of my visits to my Honda dealer, one of the guys there suggests a fuel injector flush for my Accord 2.3 2000 at $150!
I happened to notice that there are a lot of fuel injector cleaners sold in the market, are these cleaners good enough for me to use on my car and skip the expensive advice from these sales folks?
Thanks a lot.
During one of my visits to my Honda dealer, one of the guys there suggests a fuel injector flush for my Accord 2.3 2000 at $150!
I happened to notice that there are a lot of fuel injector cleaners sold in the market, are these cleaners good enough for me to use on my car and skip the expensive advice from these sales folks?
Thanks a lot.
There is a system that has you remove the incoming fuel line, disable the fuel pump and has you use the cleaner(under presure)to run the car and clean the injectors.This system is better because it is more of a concentrated cleaner mix that is going directly through the injectors and spraying the backsides of the valve at normal fuel presure.
The other kinds of fuel injection services in my opinion are not as good. They usally have you inject the cleaner solution through a manifold vacuum source (which may clean a stream down the intake but not much else)into the cylynder past an open valve(maybe touching the valve maybe not) under no presure, then burning away. Then they also have you add an additive in the fuel tank that does the actual cleaning of the injectors and valves under a diluted fuel mix.
So if the type of system used is the secound way then just buying some over the counter cleaner would be just fine. I like Techron if it is available in you area. Honda as of now doesn't have a recomendation for when if at all this should be done so it comes down to what you want and can afford for your car. Hope I answered you question without giving you more things to think about..:)
and then every 5,000 miles thereafter.
Do whatever you feel is best, but I think the fuel system flush is a service department
rip-off...
one thing tho, at high RPMs the CR-V doesn't sound as good as accord, it sounds kinda cheap, like a toy.
Have heard good things about Techron-but if it ain't broke-don't fix it. Carry a bottle of Techron in my trunk but no EFI problems yet.
I am almost certain it comes from tranny.
Any advise or have you heard o this problem before?
All you are doing by letting it warm up in your garage or driveway is wasting gas. And it is actually bad for the vehicle, IMO (although plenty of car experts will say the same thing).
I have a '01 Sedan with the Michelins which I am mostly happy with. The only problem is they seem especially loud over rough pavement. Does anyone else have this issue or is it the car itself?
I now thinking of changing to better tires when these wear out in about 10-15K more miles. Although I haven't made a final decision, the Dunlop Sport A2's are my current favorite. They are "H" rated tires (the Michelin MXV4+'s are "V" rated), much quieter, have better traction, and are supposed to be better performers.
You can go to tiretrack.com to compare various brands and attributes of tires.
read the ratings on tire rack for the MXV4, X-one and any other tires you are considering.