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Comments
Still remember going into a 4 wheel slide on the O'Hare entrance ramp (MXV4's) with 4 people in the car-bad bad but since the banking was perfect, managed to get it out of the slide. Called the pucker factor. Also that horrid squalling every time you make a not even reasonably fast corner on dry pavement.
As for an Accord being moved around at 90+mph on SR4...you're darned right it will move around in those kind of cross-winds! And remind me to be somewhere else when you're humping your Accord at 90+ anywhere on SR4 - already one of the most dangerous stretches of road anywhere in Calif.
Our '01 EX V6 with the OEM MVV4s was very steady in most situations, but I haven't owned anything that doesn't weigh 5000 lbs that won't be moved in the conditions you describe - and that includes any prior-gen Accord. Yes, I'm familiar with the road, the cars, [including the pre-gen Accord], and the conditions...
I have a 1988 Accord LXi Hatchback that I am looking to part out or sell outright. I live near Baltimore, MD. It's been a great car and I've owned it for the past 6 years. I've taken good care of it.
Here are some specifics:
Black Exterior
Tan Interior
5-speed Manual
254k miles
Most everything works.
Let me know what you need. Thanks.
CappyK
wordk@hotmail.com
I have a new 2002 Accord SE V6:
1) Are the exhaust pipes/muffler stainless steel? I looked in the manual and can't find anything.
2) I read previously that the muffler flakes off its black paint, and that is exactly what happened to mine from day 1. Is this a problem that I should get fixed under warranty?
3) Only one (the one on the passenger side which is flaking off its black paint) of the dual exhaust pipes seems to discharge exhaust. Does this sound OK?
What do you think? Thanks.
I simply stated, as have others, that I have experienced none of the problems you have. No "four wheel slides" or other mishaps?
I have to wonder how fast you drive in poor road conditions anyway? Then we have the poster who go's 100 MPH on Highway 4, a road I'm familiar with. 100 MPH? Really...?
For crying out loud! If you hate the way your tires act, REPLACE THEM WITH SOMETHING ELSE !!
And, I have read with interest, the positive comments about the X-ones. I've heard this comments before and I'll probably go that way when the time comes.
Until then, I'll try to drive in a sensible way, especially in harsh weather conditions.
Sure wouldn't want to risk a four wheel slide!!
i know i don't. why don't u just go to ur local dealer's parts department and get 2 of the honda factory chrome exaust pipes and put them on urself. it will cost you around 100 bucks and will take like 2, 3 mins to install.
i think those look much better than the black ones.
dude, stop trying to pick on other ppl, okay? cuz i don't take that s.
if u seriously know this road and u live around here, leave ur number and i'll take u for a ride and see if that very nice surfaced down-hill road on highway 4 will take us to 100mph or not.
I'm looking to change the fuel filter on my 93 accord. Seems the fuel filter is hidden behind bunch of other items. Have anyone changed their filter and have advice for doing this procedure? what to remove first, precautions, etc. Thanks
Thansk 9n advance.
TS
If you try to use a Sears chrome 12 point on it, you will probably round it off.
Then you will have a nightmare on your hands!
It takes a thick sided six point socket with a slot for the wire.
I have noticed most of the cars from any manufacturer that has black painted bumpers has peeling paint.
I think that the hood latch will be fine it can be adjusted slightly also and the amounts you need to move it aren't going to be alot.
cardohdoh
If you have ABS then it is a bit tighter and harder but still not too bad. You will want to remove the emissions box out of your way and then pop the gas cap to remove any pressure,the one bolt is a 17mm and on the other line you will need a 14mm line wrench. Without the line wrench you are taking chances on rounding the nut. Once lines are off then remove the 10mm bolts holding the bracket and remove and change the filter.Use the new washers on each side of the banjo bolt as it was when you removed it..Good luck
SC
1. Clips used to hold inner fender splash guard are not factory.. they will not come out but most of them are not very tight, same with some bumper clips/screws.
2. Door makes a "hollow" sound when I close it.. When I tap on the door shell that was replaced, it sounds like it is more "hollow" than the side that was not replaced. Did they forget to replace some sort of sound damping material?
3. Window makes awful screech sound when I roll it up and down while it's wet.
4. They did not put a couple of things back together correctly on the interior (I already fixed those.)
5. Fender does not line up with the door. It sticks out away from the face of the car a little bit. I already had them adjust once, since the bottom of the fender piece was way too close to the door shell.
I would appreciate any feedback on this stuff. Let me know if these are legitimate problems or just stuff that is common when this type of work is done. Thanks!
If a quality shop had done these repairs the car would have been like new. It is possible to do a good job.
If the body shop won't make it right, talk to your insurance company.
Good Luck!
I'm sorry to say you seem to have been victimized by a sub-par shop.
Thanks.
http://www.bridgestone-usa.com/products/BSPRE950.htm
the transmission shifts from 2nd to 1st at about 2 or 3mph, which is almost at a fully stop. and i've ONLY found this happening to MYSELF, all other cars i drive shifts from 2nd to 1st around 15-20mph, my previous car did the exact same thing, it seems to have something to do with the way i drive, but i've driving for yrs and i really can't find out exactly WHAT I DID to make the car do this. the transmission works quite well other than this one thing. which i've been having ever since i learned how to drive. and it only happens to my cars.
i mean, does anybody else have this kind of thing going on? and what can i do to make my car run like a normal one? i mean, jeez, what did i do?
and it's not that i drive fast, it doesn't matter if i'm braking from 40mph in 10ft from the light or 10mph in 10ft. it does the same thing, it's not about the speed. i really need to make the car downshift 10mph earlier.
my previous car was a used one, and the transmission worked fine juz like others UNTIL I BECAME THE OWNER. AH ~~~~~~
any suggestions would be appreciated.
i hate it cuz of the bump thing, i couldn't get the word to describe it. but that's exactly what's happening to me. I HATE THE BUMP. without that i can make a perfect smooth stop.
and yes, it gets better once it's warmed up. but it's still noticeable. i just don't know if it's a problem or not.
I've come to deal with the slight bump. I will say though that the "Bump" is noticeably less then when the car was new.
SC
but what i do now is to juz wait a little more before step on the gas, so, u know, let the hesitation part do its job and find the gear.
SC
My 99 Accord EX V-6 coupe has now passed 44,000 miles with zero problems...oh, wait! the clock bulb just burned out!
They have a scanner they can hook up to the SRS control unit and check for any trouble codes. In my case they found code 15-3 which required replacing the OPDS sensor. This involves removing the seatback and cover. My work order refers to S/B# 01-030 and i bet this is the service bulletin referring to this problem.
There IS something they can do about this and I suggest you do not just live with it. When the light is on the side airbags are deactivated and will not deploy. If they are deactivated during a side impact accident there will be no protection provided. You paid extra money for this safety feature and you have every right to expect it to be there when you need it.
Oh, OPDS is "Occupant Position Detection System" which is what detects when someone is leaning in the path of deployment of the side airbags.
I suggest that you take it in, advise them of the problem(hopefully it will be on at the time) and if they give you the same response as before, demand a work order documenting your complaint as well as their response. Now you have a legal document demonstrating their ignoring a warranted safety related issue. And make sure whoever issues you this puts their name on it, or write their name on it right in front of him(or her).
Let me know how things turn out. Good luck.
A question I have about the tranny for the rest of you is whether anyone else other than myself uses the auto tranny to slow down when needed by shifting from 4th to 3rd? I used to do it all the time because the owner's manual said it was alright to do so. I haven't any problems, I've just started to back off doing that a lot.
Now my big problem. I just picked up my car one day ago after my dealer needed to replace my fuel tank and lines as well as my fuel injectors. This cost me practically $1200! I believe very much this has to be a manufacturing defect. Of course my dealer just wanted to perform the job and collect the $$$. In all, I was told the tank was rusting from the inside out and the fuel system as well as the injectors were ruined.
Has anyone ever heard of this before? I've never heard of it, much less about a Honda or Toyota, etc.
Any advice about getting help or am I stuck with the bill? I've talked to Don Pippin in CA, (I'm in PA) who is a so called Honda Customer Care person, but as nice as he is, he doesn't return phone calls that readily and his business hours are a joke at best! HONDA OF AMERICA needs to get their act together here because I feel like I was treated like an annoyance rather than a loyal customer. I'm not sure what to do next but if I were buying today, I'd be very interested in VW and some others while excluding Honda entirely. Consequently, my car has been maintained perfectly since I bought it new and I have the records to prove it.
Also, is there anyone from Honda monitoring this topic that we can talk to? Subaru has Patti and she seems to be a great help to folks there.
Thanks to any and all for advice, comments, etc.
Shane.