Someone else posted how to solve this problem with the right air vent. I printed it out so I will re-type it.
"..(1) Remove the fright front air vent using a thin flat screwdriver with making tape wrapped around the blade end and insert it between the air vent and dash board at approximately the 4 O'clock position and pry some out (the entire air vent should come out rather easy). When removed you will note a black lever extending from the wheel location to the rear air vane. Carefully pry this lever (rod) off and insert a very thin piece of felt between the portions of the lever (rod) and the hooking assembly. The felt must be thin enough so that the rod can be snapped back in place. The entire air vent can then be easily snapped back into place..."
I never tried it. If your car is on warranty just take it to the dealer. I just turn up the volume on the radio.
there should be a thermoswitch on the front of the motor near the upper radiator hose area. That switch controls the fans after car is shut off, possibly it has gone bad. A low battery condition may cause this problem also, whu or how I am not for sure I just have seen it before..
Thank you! I will look into the thermoswitch. The battery is less than a year old and has never been discharged (I replaced the battery when the fan wore it down a few times last summer as it was old anyway) so it should be fine.
Batteries seem to be more and more mystical these days. I had a Taurus a decade ago that would not start, it wouldn't even turn over at all. The lights burned bright and the windows went up and down fine, the seats went up and down etc, so I was sure the problem was not the battery (it was only 3 years old to boot). The guy comes to tow the car, and first thing he says is "its yer battry boy". I explained that there was plenty of juice to no avail. He tried to jump start and that didn't work. Got the car to the Ford dealer, and sure enough it was the battery. I am ashamed to admit that in a moment of anger towards Ford batteries, I went to Sears and bought a diehard and installed it myself while the car was still at the Ford dealer.
I got close to getting the glove box out last night but finally gave up - will try again tonight. Had two problems.
1. Got the two screws out underneath the radio and was able to get the black molding out of the way. However, I am missing something (probably just a clip that I was afraid I might break if I was wrong) that is connecting the right side of the console with the left side of the lower dash panel. It is out of the way enough to where I was able get the 3 screws out from underneath the dash and the one screw in the middle below that.
2. When I try to lift and jiggle the glove box out of the dash something on the left side of the glove box is still connected to something and preventing it from coming out. Had to quit last night when I lost my patience and started to jerk the damn thing out.
Sure would appreciate any help from anyone that has gone through this process. It was really easy until I got to this point.
The panel under the radio has to come out and it is held in by clips. Once out there is a screw in that corner for the lower cover. As for the glove box itself make sure the light is disconnected and all screws seem to be out. It is a tough thing to remove and does seem to be cought up but it does come out with some effort.I wish I could remember all the screws to give you a screw count but after smoking up the house trying to think I couldnt remember, sorry...Good luck
I finally got it out. There was one screw connecting the center panel to the lower panel under the glove box. Once I found that one it was pretty easy. I am sure that the next time I can do it in less than 30 minutes. They wanted way too much at the dealership for the labor on this. The filters were dirty but not really all that bad. Every couple of years should be more than sufficient to keep them clean.
Congrats on successfully completing what sounds like the task from hell! Now that you're a bonafide expert, maybe you could put together a concise step-by-step post on how to do it?!
hbund216: Thanks for typing out the rattle fix! I marked it for future reference. I probably will have the dealer fix it, but sometimes it's such a hassle.
If you are thinking about changing your cabin filters, I would recommend going to Handa-accessories.com and printing their schematic on how to change the filter. The pictures (wish to hell I had gone here first) really help. However, they do not show one picture or describe the proper step on the one screw I had trouble with. The rest of the process described is very helpful, including how many screws and clips there are on each attachment.
first remove the two screws under the trap door in the center glove box, then remove the cup holder by pulling it up and out,then temove the front screw and remove the center console. Now remove the two screws from the shift bezel, the one screw from behind the ash tray,remove the hazard switch then pull out the cover to expose the radio braket screws..I believe this is all the things to do but without it in front of me it is hard to say 100%. Good luck should get you close enough..
Are the bumpers and underlying rebar, and hood latch, identical for all (current generation) 4-door accords - I4 or V6? I know the 4 uses a hood prop vs the struts but is the latch mechanism the same? Thanks.
I have noticed here lately a slight popping(clunking) coming from the right front of my 2k lx v6. This noise only occurs when the tranny is downshifting from 3rd to 2nd(not 2nd to 1st since the car has to be at almost a complete standstill before it shifts to 1st). Car only has 30k on it. Could this be a CV joint going bad. How do you check the play in the joints? 6k left on warranty so I need to make sure everything is as good as it should be before original warranty runs out. Any thoughts anybody?
Hey fritz, its pretty bad to have a clunk on a 2000 model. The clunky tranny on V6 Hondas is a FEATURE of the 2000 model year. Hope you are enjoying this feature. My 1999 Leganza tranny is still as smooth and trouble free as ever. The clunk has nothing to do with CV joints. In 2000 Honda changed the specs on one of the intenal components of the trannies on their V6 cars and minivan. That change resulted in premature tranny failure. Many people reported the failure shortly after buying the car, in which case Honda replaced the tranny with a USED rebuilt one. Why? because all the new ones had that same problem. They actually blamed their parts supplier for the problem, but who knows? I would ask my dealer to replace the tranny if I were you. With 6k miles left the warranty will be over soon, and next time you visit the dealer they will tell you that you need a new tranny.
Calling the remanufactured transmissions "used" is misleading. The only part that was reused was the very expensive housing... all of the internals were brand new.
Thanks for the instructions. I'll give it a go on the weekend. I'll try to clean the antenna connection there and see if it returns AM to a listenable level. I'm missin' my all-news radio!
When you say "the center glove box", you mean under the box under the armrest, right? I'll start there and see where it leads me. Thanks again!
I've got the '98 EX V6 Coupe and had had no real problems. I'm a daily commuter and have to use the West Side Highway in NYC. Preesently, I've got 30K - In fact, I'm due for the 30K Maintenace visit. Two points and then a question.
My tranny has performed very well and I'm not a slow driver. And my moon roof only rattles when its open while I'm driving on a dirt/uneven road. Then again, I made very sure my car was produced during one of the last production line runs of 1998. Never buy any car in the beginning of a production run.
Question: I still have the original battery and am wondering when I should replace it. The little light is still green, but I don't want to wait until the last minute.
And oh yes, the air conditioner filter. I'm totally amazed that we're got to remove half of the front dash to get to it. Why, why did they design it that way?
You seem to be everywhere and an expert on everything. Couple of points to make. 1. car manufacutured in Aug. 1999.(not 2000) 2. tranny problems had to do with clunking AFTER starting to roll in reverse. A loud banging I believe. 3. I'll tell my dealer you said I need a new tranny. 4. Got 7y/100k warranty so no real hurry. Thanks for your insight. Guess I need to go the Daewhat board and repay the favor.
pblevine, It depends. I've had batteries last anywhere from 2 years to 6 years. Depends on the car and how much power your car uses(high power stereo's etc.). You usually do get some early signs of the battery dying like slight hesitation from the starter when cranking the car, and accessories running on dimmer light and windows not opening/closing as quick.
I have had my 98 Accord for 8 months and I noticed that recently the time to start the engine has been gradually increasing. It is taking around 2 sec for the starter to ignite the engine. The problem is only observed if the engine is cool, i.e. in the morning. Any idea?
Does this noise happen on any kind of a down shift? ex: acelerating to pass and kick down to pass gear. Or is it while coming to a normal stop as it releases 3rd clutch and engages 2nd and is it a audible click or more like a bump you feel. As for checking the cv joints most of the time we wait until they make noise going on a turn and accelerating. You can also check them in another way but it is not 100% but you can hold the car still by applying the brakes hard, put into drive and touch the gas forward and then in reverse and touch it in reverse. They will sometimes make a click as you do this and that is the start of them developing play. Not yet bad at that point though..
2000 Accord EX V6 - Low fuel light never comes on and I'm not getting very good gas mileage (average 20 mpg). I do commute in a lot of traffic, but that's not my entire tank of gas. I thought 20 mpg would be worst case.
Second problem, annoying creaking sound coming from driver's side door jam. This one is much more difficult to pin-point, just wondering if anyone else is having this problem.
Given your driving situation, 20 mpg is not unusual for this car; it is certainly within the production "envelope" that you can expect with any mass-produced car, i.e. there are small variances between cars, but nothing significant. Ours averaged 19-22 mpg around town and suburban running around, and 24-28 on longer trips, depending on average speeds and AC use.
Try coating a paper towel or rag with silicone spray, and go over all of the rubber door seals with it. This may cure your creaking noises.
i have a 2002 accord EX 2000 miles... At 600 miles I noticed I very weird whistling sound as I accelerate at 32mph. I took it back to the dealer and they listened for it and stated that they hear it but do not know what it is. I have to wait for the district manager to hear it. They believe it is coming from the trans. Has anyone else experienced this...
Thanks for the battery advice. The engine seems to still start quickly. But my headlights do seem to dim a but when I'm opening my windows. I give this battery another six months and see what happens.
Bullethp: 20mpg? Too low. My '98 EX V6 gets between 24 to 27.5mpg on my daily commute depending upon traffic conditions. Also, I haven't heard any creaking sounds (yet).
Could you guys help me to find out on your next fill up at the gas station, how many gallon goes into your tank? I know that the fuel tank capacity is 17.1 gal. I filled my car up to 16.5 gallons(gas started to spill) and after that I reset my meter and drive it mostly in the city and the fuel light indicator come up after I get 250 miles. I feel that it very low MPG. The needle register almost empty. Does this happen to Accord's owner or it just me? Thanks
Hello, Refer to my earlier posts about the Brake problem. I took the car to the dealership and they diagnosed it as air in the system. They bled the system and now the brakes feel fine, they just have around 1 inch free play. This is inspite of the fact that my old mechanic told me that he had bled the system twice. Is there something I can do about that? Thanks everyone esp. Auburn for the advise. As far as the advise about the timing belt, all I want to say is that I am a student and due to financial reasons, it will have to wait. I am wondering how much free play is normal for the brakes ? I recently drove an Olds Alero and it has like 0 inches of free play in the brake pedal.
My second question is rather tame, when you check the engine oil, should the engine have been running or should you check it like the first thing in the morning ? When I checked it in the morning, it was exactly in the middle of the 2 spots where as when I checked it after driving around for a mile, it was just touching the lower spot.
You're getting 20 mpg with the v-6 during a city commute? I don't think that's bad at all. I get 25 with the 4 cylinder with a mix of traffic. But mileage is dependent on so many variables...I don't know that you can honestly compare your experience with anyone else's here. Here are variables that I can think of: Running the a/c hard. Cold weather starts. Sunroof open (hey, it affects the aerodynamics) Windows open (ditto) How long is your commute (short will probably give less mpg's) Night time driving - headlights on. Personal driving style - most days, I'm pretty mellow and am not racing from light to light. Tires not to proper inflation. "Boutique" oxygenated fuel - supposedly doesn't give the mileage that non-oxygenated does.
I keep pretty meticulous records...in the 34,000+ miles driven, we're averaging 24.4 mpg. The best mileage run I personally had was 34.6, all highway, filling up just before getting on the interstate and refilling when I got off (no suburban or city driving). This beats the EPA mileage estimate for highway driving.
I have been as low as 15 (cold, cold winter, lots of idling) up to that almost 35 mpg. I get my best mileage in the spring and fall when the weather is cool enough that the a/c is off, the windows are still up and the moonroof is closed, but not so cold that the car takes long to warm up.
I have about 3 gallons of fuel left when the fuel light comes on, at about 350 miles since the last fill.
I drive a 92 Accord Ex Automatic and get around 18 mpg but all my driving is extremely short commute of around 1.5 miles. I dont know whether this helps you, just wanted to let you know. I have in the past managed to get 28 mpg on the interstate.
Any suggestions on which oil and filter to use on a 92 Accord auto with 102k miles? Its been more than 3 months since I changed it and even though I have driven it for only 1800 miles, I am planning to get the oil changed.
It's best to check your oil in the morning with the engine off. The reason why the level is lower after the engine has been running is because most of the oil is still circulating in the engine.
Do your lights dim only when you start to lower the windows or entire time you are lowering your windows? If it is only happening just as you start (for a second)it could be a normal thing. The initial need for electrical power causes the lights to dim until the system catches up. Happens to me when I power my windows up.
Auburn, the popping is only when slowing down. At least as far as I can tell. Of course this is when the car(engine, road noise, etc.) is at it's quietest. Accelerating could drown out the noise. The bump you mentioned seems to coincide with the popping and the rate at which I slow down also plays a role. If a hard stop, then there's no noise. Only a gradual slowdown will produce pop. I tried shifting to neutral before slowing down and I did not notice the noise. I have not yet tried the method you described, but I will. I've also heard that mild acceleration while driving in a tight circle could show if there is problem with outer joints. Am going to try that also. Thanks.
Perhaps Auburn would be able to answer. What, if any, potential damage could result when someone nudges your car when the tranny is in "Park"? There's been times when I've parked on the street and when I returned to the car I could have sworn that it's been nudged forward a bit by whoever tried to squeeze in behind me.
is it easy to change a fuel filter on a 92 accord auto. if so how is it done and what tools are needed. i am the type to change fluids and plugs and oil/air filters but not the type to do engine overhauls. any help would be great, thanks.
My car has been averaging 26.7 mpg city/suburban driving. 135K.
Good point. My lights only seem to dim when I first start to power the windows (up or down). And it (the dim condition) only lasts for a fraction of a second. I'll check it again, but it seems to last only for a moment.
come on isell, this is a honda accord PROBLEMS forum, if nobody posts about their problems, what is the use of this forum? should be shut down in that case. therefore of course you see a bunch of people complaining about their problems everyday, that's what this forum is for. just like i did when i first bought my accord months ago, getting used to the car, getting used to honda product characteristics, and getting minor problems fixed, i was posting here to get some feedback from experienced people. now all my problems are gone, i barely come here anymore. so i don't really think you need to worry about this forum making a big influence on potential honda buyers. people have their faith, just like i did when i bought my accord although i knew about the transmission problem.
I think a lot of accords do this. However, I have not seen this on our other cars. Another condition on my car is when have have the lights on, the interior lights dimmed low to medium and slowing down from 10-0mph. This condition causes my interior dash, clock and radio lights to pulsate. Check it out. Just don't crash while looking at the lights :-)
rnguyen00, I just filled up my tank the other day. I filled it up when the gas light started flickering on and off. The car took 14.3 gallons. Plus you consider I probably still had about another 2.5 gallons in the tank, which is right. I usually go about 280 miles by the time the light comes on. 250 does seem low, but if you drive the City, or in alot of stop & go, that could be normal.
1.I had driver's side door lock switch go out. Passenger side still worked. Scheduled a warranty visit but it started working by itself and they said don't worry about it. 2.Air conditioner barely works ok for here in Washington state. Can't imagine it being adequete done south. Does anyone know how many degrees the a/c should cool under ouside ambient temp? 3.Backing up a fairly steep but short driveway you can smell the clutch. Doesn't happen going up in 1st gear. Does something need to be adjusted? Also unless you really mash the clutch down car won't start. Possibly related? Also mileage pretty poor but I don't drive this car much. Thanx for any advise.
Greetings from Maine. Just Bought a Honda Accord LX. The only problem I am experiencing is that when I get out and close the door, I get a small shock. You can hear the snap. Can't figure it out.
Comments
"..(1) Remove the fright front air vent using a thin flat screwdriver with making tape wrapped around the blade end and insert it between the air vent and dash board at approximately the 4 O'clock position and pry some out (the entire air vent should come out rather easy). When removed you will note a black lever extending from the wheel location to the rear air vane. Carefully pry this lever (rod) off and insert a very thin piece of felt between the portions of the lever (rod) and the hooking assembly. The felt must be thin enough so that the rod can be snapped back in place. The entire air vent can then be easily snapped back into place..."
I never tried it. If your car is on warranty just take it to the dealer. I just turn up the volume on the radio.
Batteries seem to be more and more mystical these days. I had a Taurus a decade ago that would not start, it wouldn't even turn over at all. The lights burned bright and the windows went up and down fine, the seats went up and down etc, so I was sure the problem was not the battery (it was only 3 years old to boot). The guy comes to tow the car, and first thing he says is "its yer battry boy". I explained that there was plenty of juice to no avail. He tried to jump start and that didn't work. Got the car to the Ford dealer, and sure enough it was the battery. I am ashamed to admit that in a moment of anger towards Ford batteries, I went to Sears and bought a diehard and installed it myself while the car was still at the Ford dealer.
1. Got the two screws out underneath the radio and was able to get the black molding out of the way. However, I am missing something (probably just a clip that I was afraid I might break if I was wrong) that is connecting the right side of the console with the left side of the lower dash panel. It is out of the way enough to where I was able get the 3 screws out from underneath the dash and the one screw in the middle below that.
2. When I try to lift and jiggle the glove box out of the dash something on the left side of the glove box is still connected to something and preventing it from coming out. Had to quit last night when I lost my patience and started to jerk the damn thing out.
Sure would appreciate any help from anyone that has gone through this process. It was really easy until I got to this point.
Can anyone give me pointers on how to remove the radio/cd player from a 97 SE?
TIA.
I have a HONDA ACCORD EX 4 cyl 2001 with 11200 miles. I usually drive in Northern Virginia area, 1000 miles per month.
5000 miles = First oil change
8000 miles = 2nd oil-change + tires rotated
1) What maintenance cycle should I use for oil-change ? My maintenance manual says 3750 miles.
Or Should I change oils every 3000 miles ?
2) What about any other maintenance schedules ?
Should I get the 15000 miles service from my Honda dealer or any other local Goodyear service center ?
3) Any other TSBs I should care about for 2001 Accord EX.
Thanks,
Harry
hbund216: Thanks for typing out the rattle fix! I marked it for future reference. I probably will have the dealer fix it, but sometimes it's such a hassle.
SC
The clunk has nothing to do with CV joints. In 2000 Honda changed the specs on one of the intenal components of the trannies on their V6 cars and minivan. That change resulted in premature tranny failure. Many people reported the failure shortly after buying the car, in which case Honda replaced the tranny with a USED rebuilt one. Why? because all the new ones had that same problem. They actually blamed their parts supplier for the problem, but who knows?
I would ask my dealer to replace the tranny if I were you. With 6k miles left the warranty will be over soon, and next time you visit the dealer they will tell you that you need a new tranny.
When you say "the center glove box", you mean under the box under the armrest, right? I'll start there and see where it leads me. Thanks again!
My tranny has performed very well and I'm not a slow driver. And my moon roof only rattles when its open while I'm driving on a dirt/uneven road. Then again, I made very sure my car was produced during one of the last production line runs of 1998. Never buy any car in the beginning of a production run.
Question: I still have the original battery and am wondering when I should replace it. The little light is still green, but I don't want to wait until the last minute.
And oh yes, the air conditioner filter. I'm totally amazed that we're got to remove half of the front dash to get to it. Why, why did they design it that way?
1. car manufacutured in Aug. 1999.(not 2000)
2. tranny problems had to do with clunking AFTER starting to roll in reverse. A loud banging I believe.
3. I'll tell my dealer you said I need a new tranny.
4. Got 7y/100k warranty so no real hurry.
Thanks for your insight. Guess I need to go the Daewhat board and repay the favor.
Guess the long predicted demise of Daewoo has made you even more bitter than before?
Second problem, annoying creaking sound coming from driver's side door jam. This one is much more difficult to pin-point, just wondering if anyone else is having this problem.
Thanks in advance.
Try coating a paper towel or rag with silicone spray, and go over all of the rubber door seals with it. This may cure your creaking noises.
Bullethp: 20mpg? Too low. My '98 EX V6 gets between 24 to 27.5mpg on my daily commute depending upon traffic conditions. Also, I haven't heard any creaking sounds (yet).
Refer to my earlier posts about the Brake problem. I took the car to the dealership and they diagnosed it as air in the system. They bled the system and now the brakes feel fine, they just have around 1 inch free play. This is inspite of the fact that my old mechanic told me that he had bled the system twice. Is there something I can do about that?
Thanks everyone esp. Auburn for the advise.
As far as the advise about the timing belt, all I want to say is that I am a student and due to financial reasons, it will have to wait.
I am wondering how much free play is normal for the brakes ? I recently drove an Olds Alero and it has like 0 inches of free play in the brake pedal.
My second question is rather tame, when you check the engine oil, should the engine have been running or should you check it like the first thing in the morning ? When I checked it in the morning, it was exactly in the middle of the 2 spots where as when I checked it after driving around for a mile, it was just touching the lower spot.
Thanks in advance.
Running the a/c hard.
Cold weather starts.
Sunroof open (hey, it affects the aerodynamics)
Windows open (ditto)
How long is your commute (short will probably give less mpg's)
Night time driving - headlights on.
Personal driving style - most days, I'm pretty mellow and am not racing from light to light.
Tires not to proper inflation.
"Boutique" oxygenated fuel - supposedly doesn't give the mileage that non-oxygenated does.
I keep pretty meticulous records...in the 34,000+ miles driven, we're averaging 24.4 mpg. The best mileage run I personally had was 34.6, all highway, filling up just before getting on the interstate and refilling when I got off (no suburban or city driving). This beats the EPA mileage estimate for highway driving.
I have been as low as 15 (cold, cold winter, lots of idling) up to that almost 35 mpg. I get my best mileage in the spring and fall when the weather is cool enough that the a/c is off, the windows are still up and the moonroof is closed, but not so cold that the car takes long to warm up.
I have about 3 gallons of fuel left when the fuel light comes on, at about 350 miles since the last fill.
Fuel economy-wise, our Accord has been great.
YMM truly V...:->
Any suggestions on which oil and filter to use on a 92 Accord auto with 102k miles? Its been more than 3 months since I changed it and even though I have driven it for only 1800 miles, I am planning to get the oil changed.
Am I doing it right?
I tried shifting to neutral before slowing down and I did not notice the noise. I have not yet tried the method you described, but I will. I've also heard that mild acceleration while driving in a tight circle could show if there is problem with outer joints. Am going to try that also.
Thanks.
My car has been averaging 26.7 mpg city/suburban driving. 135K.
Flashing lights? 'About' 2 gallons left in the tank?????
You are never going to know what your actual milage is.
2.Air conditioner barely works ok for here in Washington state. Can't imagine it being adequete
done south. Does anyone know how many degrees the
a/c should cool under ouside ambient temp?
3.Backing up a fairly steep but short driveway you can smell the clutch. Doesn't happen going up in 1st gear. Does something need to be adjusted? Also unless you really mash the clutch down car won't start. Possibly related? Also mileage pretty poor but I don't drive this car much.
Thanx for any advise.