I have a 2000 Accord and this morning the sunroof closed half-way and then stopped dead. I'm off to the dealer tonight to get this taken care of, but I was wondering if anyone else had seen this problem. The last time we took the car in for a service (6 months ago) they worked on it to fix the rattling problem, but I haven't had any issues with it until today??
Haven't had that problem in either of my Hondas, but had it in another car, when the fuse blew. Have you checked the fuse panel to see if that might be the case? There should be enough info in the manual for you to find the right fuse, pull it, and check it.
I have a 1998 Accord EX with over 90,000 miles on it.
Since around 36,000 miles (go figure, just as the warrantee runs out!) the Check Engine light has been on. I have brought it into the dealers who put in on the "computer" to read the codes....It always comes up with something about the O2 sensors.
I've replaced them (both). The light went off, but eventually back on.
I have a mechanic that I trust and I have him scratching his head. At one point, he replaced the "map sensor," which did not work. He was honest with me and told me to go to a dealer because they might know.
The dealer was "absolutely positive" that it was a combination of two things and replaces the "canister" and something else (I don't remember now, possibly some valve). On the way home from that $250 "repair," the light came back on. They looked at it again and were again "absolutely positive" that it is the catalytic converter (hey, only $1500 this time!). I chose against going down that road until I am sure.
I've tried Techron, and a catalytic converter cleaner which actually made the light go off for a few weeks once, but doesn't work anymore. We've reset the computer dozens of times to monitor what is setting it off.
He says that the code set in the 1998 is not as descriptive as it is now (1998 was the first year they used this code set????) so he still cannot be sure.
The strangest thing is this: the car runs fine for a 4 1/2 year old car with almost 100,000 miles on it. It idles a little rough but has not shown decreased power or gas mileage. It does not stall. It runs well. I've been told that the rough idling is the computer trying to compensate for the problem it thinks its having.
I am very confused by this. And I am angry that that little light will cost me all sorts of money when I want to sell/trade-in the car.
Sorry for the long history. Any help would be appreciated.
I recently replaced my 1998 Accord EX V-6 Coupe's OEM Michelin MXV4's with a new set of 4 (Michelin MXV4's again). The car has 65,000 miles on it. Since the change of tires I am detecting a slight vibration at speeds over 60 MPH (the steering wheel does not shake and the disc brakes are not wharped) and worse is the car's inability to steer straight. The ride has become jittery and bouncy. I already had the car's tires rebalanced and the wheels aligned (after the new set of tires was mounted and the issue was noticed) but it did not fix the problem. I did not have these problems until the new set of tires was installed. I would appreciate any ideas/suggestions as to what may be happening and how to fix it, thanks.
...that are not caused by balance usually mean one or more of the tire/wheel combinations is/are out of round. Differences as small as 1mm can be felt on these cars, and any high spot of more than 2mm will cause shake that even insensitive drivers can feel.
Who installed the tires? Go to the best tire/wheel shop in town, have them put each wheel/tire on the balancer, and have them check for both horizontal runout ['wobble'] and vertical runout [lack of roundness]. My bet is that at least one, and probably more, of the tires is not round enough or true enough for this chassis. While Michelin has the best quality control in the world, even they make the occasional mistake.
Vibrations AFTER a tire swap can only be one of two things: wheel balance or wheel/tire runout. With the electronic balancers out there today, it is hard to screw up a balance job, but some of the youngsters they hire to do this work have been known to manage it. Assuming balance is really OK [as verified by the best shop in town], then focus on runout.
I have a 2000 Honda Accord EX V6 Coupe. It's got 26,000 miles on it. I got the terrible Michelin MXV4 tires on it.
I have a question for 98-on Accord owners. Basically I would like to find out if anyone is having the same problem, related to steering. As my car is getting older, the steering/tires seem to wander on the highway more and more with the ruts and imperfection in the roadway. Steering correction is constantly needed. Especially when you come to stop at stop lights where the road has truck ruts from braking, the steering will wiggle left and right much more than it used to, say at about 10,000 miles.....I was wondering if anyone else has this problem and/or if anyone has heard about this problem. TSB? Recall?
I got this intermittent problem that's driving me crazy. It's loud as heck and only happens sometimes when I shift from Park or D4 to reverse. It's out of warranty so I'm afraid to take it to the dealer and they tell me I need a new tranny. Does anyone know what this could be and if Honda has a recall on it?
WHEN YOU PUT THE GAS IN DO YOU CRANK THE CAP A FULL THREE TURNS? I JUST BOUGHT A 2002 ACCORD, AND THE DEALER TOLD ME THAT WHEN I PUT GAS IN TO DO THAT OR ELSE THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT WILL COME ON.
maxhonda: Have you done an alignment? I'm no expert, but I seem to recall reading that if the toe-in/toe-out is out of spec, that straight-line stability is affected. Also, I think that when your tires are worn down a bit, they are more sensitive to road surface imperfections because there is less flex.
joer9: Honda auto trannies do tend to clunk quite loudly going into reverse. It is especially noticeable when the windows are open or if the car is in an enclosed area. That's the case with my CL. If it otherwise shifts normal, then I wouldn't worry about it. It's out of warranty anyway, so no sense speculating about whether there is a problem or not. If there is a recall, you'd be notified by letter.
Joer9 I have the same problem with my 98 EX V-6. It appears that a supplier changed the spec's on a part inside the tranny without telling Honda resulting in the intermittent clunk you hear when you shift into reverse. I know (by having read posts in this board) that some owners did get a new/remanufactured tranny installed after complaining about the problem to the dealer but I believe their cars were still in warranty. It is annoying and loud but since your car is out of warranty I would not bother taking it to the dealer unless the problem gets worse. The fact of the matter is that Honda's auto tranny's are simply not the best in the industry, their manual transmissions on the other hand are excellent.
Yes, that's true about the gas cap. It's part of a vapor recovery system that's mandatory on all new cars; a loose gas cap will trigger the check engine light on any newer car, not just an Accord.
As a side note, typing in all caps is considered impolite; it's the online version of "shouting."
What were the specific codes read by the mechanics. IF it is anything to do with emissions-I think the 98's have an extended warranty to 150K that covers the whole emissions system. They have to tell you what codes were showing. Try the DIY blinker CEL and see what those codes say-It will give you a general indication.
Knowing the actual code or codes would be of help. The cats were covered for 8 and 80,000 but the warranty extension was for some 95 and all 96 and 97 so it seems like your past the warranties. We have seen several cat problems in that year and mileage range causing the check engine light to come on. Usally does not cause any other problems and can be checked by watching the primary and secondary O2 readings with a scan tool.Good luck
I have the same exact problems with steering and wheel vibrations. Took the same path as most of you, put the Michelins back on (2 different sets), had the best place in town balance them, and rebalance them (3 times) and I still have vibrations at 60+ mph. Does anyone have any other ideas? Axel, Rotors, Suspension?? I am at a total loss of what my next step is....
One thing to definitely check is the torque on the lug nuts. Go out and buy a hand torque wrench and socket and re-torque the nuts to the proper 80 lbf-ft of torque. Accords are very sensitive to having the proper torque to prevent rotor warpage. Don't let those tire guys tell you that the "torque sticks" on their impact wrenches are accurate. These things are static calibrated and the impulse forces are much higher than the actual torque specified. I take my own wrench with me to these places and if they don't have their own, they can use mine or I go somewhere else. Three sets of rotors in two years long ago taught me this valuable lesson!
The torque idea is good. Thanks. If they havent been properly torqued in the past do you think my rotors are warped. The reason I ask is that I have recently developed a brake squeal problem as well and when I press the brakes slightly at very low speads I can hear the squeal intensify in certain parts of the rotation.
i have a 98 civic, 44k. This morning after I insert the key in, I can't turn the key (to ignite). The steer seems also locked up. The shift is at parking position. This never happened before.
i have a 98 civic, 44k. This morning after I insert the key in, I can't turn the key (to ignite). The steer seems also locked up. The shift is at parking position. This never happened before.
See my post 2458 above; while bad wheel bolt torquing can contribute to steady-state shaking from warped rotors, it usually manifests itself by shaking felt only on braking. It CAN sometimes result in the symptoms you describe, but my bet is that one or more of the wheel/tire combos is not round enough for the very sensitive Honda chassis.
Still, the advice above is indeed paramount:
WHENEVER ANY SHOP REMOVES A WHEEL FOR ANY REASON, MAKE SURE THE WHEEL IS HAND-TORQUED WITH A GOOD TORQUE WRENCH to factory specs, which vary from 76-80 Ft-lbs, generally. Overtorquing is common from the careless use of air guns [the best shops have equipment that will automatically limit torque on the guns, but too often these get out of spec and are not checked often enough].
I'm not sure if this is your area of expertise, but here goes:
We just took delivery of an '02 V6 Accord for my wife. Everything seems fine except one. The hood is misaligned. After examining it closely, it appears that the problem is that the hood is sitting too far forward, so that it protrudes about 1/3 inch at the forward edge. And it is ever so slightly skewered to one side. The result it looks like it is slightly ajar. Are there adjustments that can be made at the hinges(and also the gas struts). I wouldn't think there would be zero play at the hinge bolts. There must be at least some wiggle room. And would you have to make corresponding adjustments to the hood latch mechanism? I haven't taken it back to the dealer yet, but I figured I should go there informed in case they try to give the "there is nothing we can do" line. Also I've heard that there the fenders can be moved in or out slightly to compensate for imperfect gaping.
I've had 3 Hondas and 2 have had the wheel vibrations discussed. One was a 99 Odyssey, which started after about 1 1/2 years. I also have a 99 CRV that has been doing this for about a year. And I have an 01 Accord with 8K miles that is still smooth.
My opinion on this subject is that Hondas are very sensitive and "things" need to be just right, otherwise you'll get this vibration. The "things" I mean are tire pressure, lug nut torque, wheel balancing, tire wear, and alignment.
With the Odyssey, the dealer had the vehicle 3 or 4 times and could not eliminate the vibration. We eventually traded it in on the Accord.
I plan on getting new tires for the CRV next week since they're kinda bald. I'll post again and let you guys know how the ride is. I plan on getting Goodyear Aquatread 3's. Anyone have any other thoughts?
Last year I replaced my Honda with Pirelli P400. The tires are super in cornering and in Wet road. It was in Consumer Guild Best pick that money could buy in the 2 years.
I see your argument canadiancl. could be a valid point with tires wearing. Especially MXV4's, which are rather hard tires. The handling stinks with them.
isellhondas, Yes, i'm thinking of replacing tires. I truly dislike the Michelin MXV4 tires. I am considering better tires at 30K miles-softer more performance oriented tires as the MXV4's really don't have any outstanding qualities except tire wear.
I had the MXV4's on my 99 sedan and when I traded it at almost 40,000 miles they looked like new and still had several thousand miles worth of wear left on them. No vibrations and they handled well enough for my purposes.
When the time comes, I'll probably buy something different but I have no idea what.
For my purposes, they work fine. The car handles just fine (for me anyway) and these tires are wearing extremely well. They have at least half of the tread left at 46,000 miles.
No problem in the rain either and we get LOTS of that here in Seattle.
So...I guess I don't understand all of the adverse comments?
I see you're in FL too. Well, you know the rain we get here; prolly why you're considering Aquatread. Take a look at the Mich X-Ones as well. I put them on my Mazda MPV for around $88 each at Tire Kingdom. I was very impressed by their wet handling! Plus they're 80K mile tires. I plan on replacing my MXV4's on the Accord with the X-Ones when the time comes ... fwiw.
Yeah, I'm in Orlando so I need good wet traction. Wow, a 700 tread wear rating, just a bit lower dry/wet traction rating, but a better handling rating and ride/noise comfort rating, and all for $85/tire compared to $69 for the Aquatread3. Plus they are a "Standard Touring" tire rather than simply an "All season" tire and Michelin has a better rep. than Goodyear. Hmmm, looks like I might get the X-Ones instead. Thanks for the tip beachnut.
Has anyone ever bought tires at Wal-Mart? They can order just about any tire. The prices are a bit lower, and for about $10 per tire for mount, balance, new valve stems, lifetime rotations, and lifetime road hazard.
if you go to Wal-Mart you better be sure you carry a torque wrench. they probably never heard of torque. they will definitely want to sell you an air filter etc...
From Tirerack.com: "While traction and temperature resistance ratings are specific performance levels, the treadwear ratings are assigned by the manufacturers following field testing and are most accurate when comparing tires of the same brand."
Comparing treadwear ratings for different brands of tires is like comparing apples and oranges. Each manufacturer rates it's models of tires relative to a benchmark of it's own design, not to an industry standard wear value.
Have to laught every time isellhonda's defends the MXV4's-figured it out-he does not want to hear people buying a honda saying they do not want this tire.
Check out comments on tire rack if you are in a tire buying mode. Also be very careful of buying the same tire from Wal-Mart/Sam's. These people are legendary in their approach to changing packaging configurations to make a few cents off the consumer. I have looked at their X-One knock off by Michelin-also compared the prices to those offered by a regional tire chain-Tires Plus-no difference. ALso in the past I have had problems getting tires balanced by Sam's-the tech barely let the tire spin up before stopping to put on weights. Went to a good local tire dealer-took the tire off-left the weights on and was it out of balance.
SO if you don't care what kind of noise, how poorly they hold in rain or snow-go buy some MXV4's. If you want performance-check out Michelin X-One's and there are probably 20 other tires just as good for the same or less money.
Yeah and don't let anybody with a impact wrench get near your lug nuts-even with torque sticks-take a click type torque wrench and watch the tech use it. Warped rotors are not fun-been there.
02 coupe ex-l there's a weird sliding problem when going at highway speeds, starting to be noticable at 80mph, at 90mph it's very obvious. it feels like the wheels are not tightened enough, so feels like the front wheels are moving horizontically, but without correction, it wouldn't really go off track, it's like the car is FLYING on the wheels without any connections and it moves around a little. it's really annoying. anyone else with this problem? what could be the cause?
Having a hard time understanding what it feels like. Is it as if the car is hunting around from left to right. Sort of following a weaving track? Also, is yours a 4 cylinder? Mine hunts around the road at times and moves around a bit. As if it is catching a groove. Let me know if this is what your experiencing.
oops, hit enter too fast. ok, i juz thought of a way to describe it. it's juz like the car is being pushed around horizontally by the wind, i swear to god i kept the steering wheel PERFECTLY FIRM, it juz can't travel in a straight line when going at 90mph. well, certainly there IS wind blowing hard, but i claim it as a problem because there is just too much force, the car weights 3,000 pounds, and my friend's 2,600 pounds 94 accord wouldn't move A BIT at 100MPH ! it just gets on my nerves cuz i go to school every morning on highway 4 where i can go beyond 100mph, it's juz like the car is pushed to the right, then to the left, then right, then left ........... one thing though, the steering wheel doesn't move at all, you can feel the pulling force through the steering wheel, but it literally doesn't move. although the car's already sliding to the left. so now i think there's enough information for u guys to have a pic? what could be the problem? should i take the car to the dealer? (my dealer never wanna fix my problems, they always tell me that there's nothing wrong, so if there's any other way to fix it, i'd love to know).
I notice that my car tends to move from one side to another even when going 70 or above. I notice it less now. Asking around it seems like the 4 cylinder models are the ones that do it. Could be the car is light up front and is more sensitive to rain grooves and impressions left in the road.
thx for the advice, i guess it's normal then, in the bay area, we do get a lot of harsh wind in the spring, that might be the problem. guess it'll turn out okay when the summer comes. i don't wanna take the hassles going to the dealer anywayz, so i'll probably just live with it. ^_^. again, thx for ur help. appreciate it.
My 2002 LxV6 does a similar thing above 70 mph. Sometimes it feels like a wind gust has hit it but most times it feels like the rear end is trying to kick out sideways. I had it re-aligned once when I first bought it and the car only has 4500 miles on it now. I'm thinking it could be the cheezy tires ( This one came with Bridgestone Turanza) or maybe I'm just used to the feel of the lower profile tires that were on my '88 LXi. Does anyone (Auburn?) know if there are any suspension TSB's out? Are there others with this problem? Any suggestions?
mine has those bridgestone turanzas too ! and i'm really not impressed with them .......... when i wear them out i'll definitely change to better tires. and i do think that it might be the sucky tires.
I replaced my MXV4's on my 96 Accord with Michelin X-Ones last fall. Outstanding tires, much better than the OEM MXV4's. Great in the rain and snow. In fact I just put the X-Ones on our Windstar as well. You will pay around $90-95 per tire.....but WELL WORTH IT!! I would be hard pressed to buy anything else.....I have 75,000 more miles to go before I have to think about replacements.
Are they really the EXACT same tire? After calling several places, I can save about $55.00 total if I get the X-Radials at Sam's Club. Of all the places I called in regards to the X-Ones, including Wal-Mart, they were all between $455 & $475., which included 4 tires, mount/balance, new stems, and sales tax. But at Wal-Mart and Sam's club I can get lifetime road hazard and rotation.
So I'm leaning towards the X-Ones from Wal-mart for $475 or the X-Radials at Sam's club for $420 but first I want to be sure they're the same tire.
Maxhonda, Isell, mikefm, etc.: I've posted on this subject before but haven't had a real good response. I've got the '98 EX V6 Accord Coupe with those MXV4's. I don't like them. I'll admit they are "OK" in that they do have good dry traction, passable wet traction, and do wear well. 'Kinda wish they would wear faster. My problem is performance. Higher speed turns create 'radial runout' where the tires actually fold over and create lots of noise. And reduce this car's ability to perform. I've also experienced Max's mini-sliding problem on the West Side Highway in NY. The ruts on that road are from lack of repaving after too much wear. But I think any tire will follow the wear pattern in a road like that. And oh yeah, they produce lots of road noise under normal driving conditions too.
I see that the X-Ones have a good rep, but when I go to 'tiretrack', searches always seem to put the Dunlop SP Sports A2's in the running too. On paper, this new tire seems to be very good. So,...my question is: has anyone had good results with this new (H rated) tire and how do they compare with X-Ones?
Comments
I have a 2000 Accord and this morning the sunroof closed half-way and then stopped dead. I'm off to the dealer tonight to get this taken care of, but I was wondering if anyone else had seen this problem. The last time we took the car in for a service (6 months ago) they worked on it to fix the rattling problem, but I haven't had any issues with it until today??
Many thanks
Paul
Since around 36,000 miles (go figure, just as the warrantee runs out!) the
Check Engine light has been on. I have brought it into the dealers who put
in on the "computer" to read the codes....It always comes up with something
about the O2 sensors.
I've replaced them (both). The light went off, but eventually back on.
I have a mechanic that I trust and I have him scratching his head. At one
point, he replaced the "map sensor," which did not work. He was honest with
me and told me to go to a dealer because they might know.
The dealer was "absolutely positive" that it was a combination of two things
and replaces the "canister" and something else (I don't remember now,
possibly some valve). On the way home from that $250 "repair," the light
came back on. They looked at it again and were again "absolutely positive"
that it is the catalytic converter (hey, only $1500 this time!). I chose
against going down that road until I am sure.
I've tried Techron, and a catalytic converter cleaner which actually made
the light go off for a few weeks once, but doesn't work anymore. We've
reset the computer dozens of times to monitor what is setting it off.
He says that the code set in the 1998 is not as descriptive as it is now
(1998 was the first year they used this code set????) so he still cannot be
sure.
The strangest thing is this: the car runs fine for a 4 1/2 year old car with
almost 100,000 miles on it. It idles a little rough but has not shown
decreased power or gas mileage. It does not stall. It runs well. I've
been told that the rough idling is the computer trying to compensate for the
problem it thinks its having.
I am very confused by this. And I am angry that that little light will cost
me all sorts of money when I want to sell/trade-in the car.
Sorry for the long history. Any help would be appreciated.
Since the change of tires I am detecting a slight vibration at speeds over 60 MPH (the steering wheel does not shake and the disc brakes are not wharped) and worse is the car's inability to steer straight. The ride has become jittery and bouncy.
I already had the car's tires rebalanced and the wheels aligned (after the new set of tires was mounted and the issue was noticed) but it did not fix the problem. I did not have these problems until the new set of tires was installed.
I would appreciate any ideas/suggestions as to what may be happening and how to fix it, thanks.
Just a quick Question: My Accord is 9 Months new.
Unfortunately, I am not very happy with it. Various reasons. 13K or 8,125 Miles to date.
Has anyone had ANY experience with breaking a lease midway?
There are 27 months left on it.
All ideas will be most appreciated.
Thanks,
Robert.
P.S. Car has NOT been involved in any accidents and have NOT had any mechanical problems.
Who installed the tires? Go to the best tire/wheel shop in town, have them put each wheel/tire on the balancer, and have them check for both horizontal runout ['wobble'] and vertical runout [lack of roundness]. My bet is that at least one, and probably more, of the tires is not round enough or true enough for this chassis. While Michelin has the best quality control in the world, even they make the occasional mistake.
Vibrations AFTER a tire swap can only be one of two things: wheel balance or wheel/tire runout. With the electronic balancers out there today, it is hard to screw up a balance job, but some of the youngsters they hire to do this work have been known to manage it. Assuming balance is really OK [as verified by the best shop in town], then focus on runout.
I have a question for 98-on Accord owners. Basically I would like to find out if anyone is having the same problem, related to steering.
As my car is getting older, the steering/tires seem to wander on the highway more and more with the ruts and imperfection in the roadway. Steering correction is constantly needed. Especially when you come to stop at stop lights where the road has truck ruts from braking, the steering will wiggle left and right much more than it used to, say at about 10,000 miles.....I was wondering if anyone else has this problem and/or if anyone has heard about this problem. TSB? Recall?
Thanks.
joer9: Honda auto trannies do tend to clunk quite loudly going into reverse. It is especially noticeable when the windows are open or if the car is in an enclosed area. That's the case with my CL. If it otherwise shifts normal, then I wouldn't worry about it. It's out of warranty anyway, so no sense speculating about whether there is a problem or not. If there is a recall, you'd be notified by letter.
I know (by having read posts in this board) that some owners did get a new/remanufactured tranny installed after complaining about the problem to the dealer but I believe their cars were still in warranty. It is annoying and loud but since your car is out of warranty I would not bother taking it to the dealer unless the problem gets worse.
The fact of the matter is that Honda's auto tranny's are simply not the best in the industry, their manual transmissions on the other hand are excellent.
As a side note, typing in all caps is considered impolite; it's the online version of "shouting."
Thanks.
i have a 98 civic, 44k. This morning after I insert the key in, I can't turn the key (to ignite). The steer seems also locked up. The shift is at parking position. This never happened before.
Anybody have any idea? Thanks!
i have a 98 civic, 44k. This morning after I insert the key in, I can't turn the key (to ignite). The steer seems also locked up. The shift is at parking position. This never happened before.
Anybody have any idea? Thanks!
Still, the advice above is indeed paramount:
WHENEVER ANY SHOP REMOVES A WHEEL FOR ANY REASON, MAKE SURE THE WHEEL IS HAND-TORQUED WITH A GOOD TORQUE WRENCH to factory specs, which vary from 76-80 Ft-lbs, generally. Overtorquing is common from the careless use of air guns [the best shops have equipment that will automatically limit torque on the guns, but too often these get out of spec and are not checked often enough].
Mine is a '99 with 46,000 miles. The tires still look almost new and I have none of the problems you described.
I guess if it's such a problem, you maybe ought to buy some different tires?
We just took delivery of an '02 V6 Accord for my wife. Everything seems fine except one. The hood is misaligned. After examining it closely, it appears that the problem is that the hood is sitting too far forward, so that it protrudes about 1/3 inch at the forward edge. And it is ever so slightly skewered to one side. The result it looks like it is slightly ajar. Are there adjustments that can be made at the hinges(and also the gas struts). I wouldn't think there would be zero play at the hinge bolts. There must be at least some wiggle room. And would you have to make corresponding adjustments to the hood latch mechanism? I haven't taken it back to the dealer yet, but I figured I should go there informed in case they try to give the "there is nothing we can do" line.
Also I've heard that there the fenders can be moved in or out slightly to compensate for imperfect gaping.
Thanks in advance for any advice you could offer.
My opinion on this subject is that Hondas are very sensitive and "things" need to be just right, otherwise you'll get this vibration. The "things" I mean are tire pressure, lug nut torque, wheel balancing, tire wear, and alignment.
With the Odyssey, the dealer had the vehicle 3 or 4 times and could not eliminate the vibration. We eventually traded it in on the Accord.
I plan on getting new tires for the CRV next week since they're kinda bald. I'll post again and let you guys know how the ride is. I plan on getting Goodyear Aquatread 3's. Anyone have any other thoughts?
I see your argument canadiancl. could be a valid point with tires wearing. Especially MXV4's, which are rather hard tires. The handling stinks with them.
isellhondas, Yes, i'm thinking of replacing tires. I truly dislike the Michelin MXV4 tires. I am considering better tires at 30K miles-softer more performance oriented tires as the MXV4's really don't have any outstanding qualities except tire wear.
For my purposes, they work fine. The car handles just fine (for me anyway) and these tires are wearing extremely well. They have at least half of the tread left at 46,000 miles.
No problem in the rain either and we get LOTS of that here in Seattle.
So...I guess I don't understand all of the adverse comments?
MXV4 Aquatread3
Price $116 $69
Dry traction 7.5 8.7
Wet traction 6.8 8.9
Wear 7.1 8.6
Treadwear rating 340 640
There were other categories where both tires were similar, but these are the ones that stood out. For my money, the Aquatread3 wins hands down.
SC
And if that treadwear number is for real, they must last forever!
Maybe I'll get some if my Michelins ever wear out!
Has anyone ever bought tires at Wal-Mart? They can order just about any tire. The prices are a bit lower, and for about $10 per tire for mount, balance, new valve stems, lifetime rotations, and lifetime road hazard.
"While traction and temperature resistance ratings are specific performance levels, the treadwear ratings are assigned by the manufacturers following field testing and are most accurate when comparing tires of the same brand."
Comparing treadwear ratings for different brands of tires is like comparing apples and oranges. Each manufacturer rates it's models of tires relative to a benchmark of it's own design, not to an industry standard wear value.
Check out comments on tire rack if you are in a tire buying mode. Also be very careful of buying the same tire from Wal-Mart/Sam's. These people are legendary in their approach to changing packaging configurations to make a few cents off the consumer. I have looked at their X-One knock off by Michelin-also compared the prices to those offered by a regional tire chain-Tires Plus-no difference. ALso in the past I have had problems getting tires balanced by Sam's-the tech barely let the tire spin up before stopping to put on weights. Went to a good local tire dealer-took the tire off-left the weights on and was it out of balance.
SO if you don't care what kind of noise, how poorly they hold in rain or snow-go buy some MXV4's. If you want performance-check out Michelin X-One's and there are probably 20 other tires just as good for the same or less money.
Yeah and don't let anybody with a impact wrench get near your lug nuts-even with torque sticks-take a click type torque wrench and watch the tech use it. Warped rotors are not fun-been there.
there's a weird sliding problem when going at highway speeds, starting to be noticable at 80mph, at 90mph it's very obvious.
it feels like the wheels are not tightened enough, so feels like the front wheels are moving horizontically, but without correction, it wouldn't really go off track, it's like the car is FLYING on the wheels without any connections and it moves around a little. it's really annoying.
anyone else with this problem? what could be the cause?
I guess it's kinda of like what I am experiencing.
ok, i juz thought of a way to describe it.
it's juz like the car is being pushed around horizontally by the wind, i swear to god i kept the steering wheel PERFECTLY FIRM, it juz can't travel in a straight line when going at 90mph. well, certainly there IS wind blowing hard, but i claim it as a problem because there is just too much force, the car weights 3,000 pounds, and my friend's 2,600 pounds 94 accord wouldn't move A BIT at 100MPH !
it just gets on my nerves cuz i go to school every morning on highway 4 where i can go beyond 100mph, it's juz like the car is pushed to the right, then to the left, then right, then left ........... one thing though, the steering wheel doesn't move at all, you can feel the pulling force through the steering wheel, but it literally doesn't move. although the car's already sliding to the left.
so now i think there's enough information for u guys to have a pic?
what could be the problem? should i take the car to the dealer? (my dealer never wanna fix my problems, they always tell me that there's nothing wrong, so if there's any other way to fix it, i'd love to know).
again, thx for ur help. appreciate it.
So I'm leaning towards the X-Ones from Wal-mart for $475 or the X-Radials at Sam's club for $420 but first I want to be sure they're the same tire.
I've posted on this subject before but haven't had a real good response. I've got the '98 EX V6 Accord Coupe with those MXV4's. I don't like them. I'll admit they are "OK" in that they do have good dry traction, passable wet traction, and do wear well. 'Kinda wish they would wear faster. My problem is performance. Higher speed turns create 'radial runout' where the tires actually fold over and create lots of noise. And reduce this car's ability to perform. I've also experienced Max's mini-sliding problem on the West Side Highway in NY. The ruts on that road are from lack of repaving after too much wear. But I think any tire will follow the wear pattern in a road like that. And oh yeah, they produce lots of road noise under normal driving conditions too.
I see that the X-Ones have a good rep, but when I go to 'tiretrack', searches always seem to put the Dunlop SP Sports A2's in the running too. On paper, this new tire seems to be very good. So,...my question is: has anyone had good results with this new (H rated) tire and how do they compare with X-Ones?