A long time ago when I had an old BMW that was acting up, I talked to a service person and they told me that Chevron was the best gas anywhere because something about franchising didn't let them get gas from just any supplier like the rest of stations, however, I have noticed that from one Chevron Station to another the MPG's will vary, so who knows if some station owners use water as a filler or something. Maybe I will try the Conoco swap for a while as the stations here in NM are pretty much 40% Conocos 40% Chevrons, 10% Texacos, and the rest Giant, Mustang, Shamrock Gasamat. No Amocos or Exxon or stuff like that here.
Wow, that sounds good. Don't worry about talking yukon on the accord board. Hey, we're talking about two vehicles that compare because of MPG's right?! How hard did you have to deal to get that price? Why don't you email me at mroybal@co.santa-fe.nm.us
Maybe you have a bad head gasket that is letting the coolant get into the combustion chamber. I have heard this causes white smoke to come out of the tail pipe.
Please keep us posted on the mileage you get when you buy the Yukon (or other big SUV). I have a thought about what will happen, but I'll wait and see.
Sure thing, but it probably won't be for a little while. I'll probably try and sell my Accord myself because I don't want to be ripped off that bad if you know what I mean. But I'll keep you posted.
I don't know if this has any relationship to the problem you're experiencing, but when I could smell coolant through the air vents of a car I owned years ago, it turned out that the heater core had gone bad. I don't know if they can go "bad enough" to empty your radiator (I kinda doubt it, but I'm hardly an expert), but the symptoms sound similar.
The check engine light on my '93 Accord came on today and stayed on while I was driving on a 2 hour trip. Could this possibly be the O2 (oxygen) sensor going bad? The light didn't come on till I was up to speed around ~50mph. I also noticed a drop in rpm (~200rpm) at idle at stop lights. Any immediate advice is greatly appreciated.
My first guess is a heater core leak, agreeing with talon95. You will smell this inside. Another thing that will happen is the inside windows will fog up a lot. And will 'haze up' from the coolant fumes.
Thanks for all your suggestions guys. It sorta gives me an understanding of what to look for and not be completely clueless... I'm gonna go to the honda dealership on tuesday and i'll post what was wrong with my car. See ya later
There are alot of possibilities, the O2 being one of them for sure. There is a two pin green connector in the right side kick pane; area usally around the corner of the glove box. If you jump those two pins together the check engine light on the dash will blink a code at you. Long blinks being 10's and the shorts being 1's. Example 4 longs and 2 shorts would be a 42. That code will help in finding out what is wrong.
I just purchased a 2002 Accord V6 coupe last month and I am having two problems. The first problem is the alignement. I took it to the dealer and they sent it to an alignment shop. Although the alignment was better, it still pulled to the left. The dealer tried to fix it by rotating my tires but that was to no avail. They now want to install an aftermarket part to try and correct the caster/camber. I am weary of this because of future implications this part might have on my waranty. As for the second problem, I have a creaking noise coming from my back right rear window area. The dealer has yet to determine if it can be attributed to the glass manufacturer or themselves. I was hoping someone might shed some insight on either/both of these problems. Perhaps someone out there has encountered similar problems.
i have the same problems u r having, and i have more than u do with my 2002 coupe ex-l. not a v6. alignement? nah nah nah, it's the rims, u gotta figure out which one is pulling and tell them to change it, cuz it has structural errors and it's frigging impossible to balance a tire on it. don't try what aftermarket stuff, the dealer's just trying to fool u. and that rattle? i don't know, i have it too but my dealer wouldn't do anything about it. and i have more problems than u do. and those ones that are not important, i wouldn't even bother, cuz i know my dealer wouldn't do anything. i'm hella disappointed but oh well, it doesn't break down and i'm just driving it. oh, and btw, if u want ur rim changed under warranty, u might have to do something aggressive, cuz i went to talk to the manager to get it fixed, after those "advisors" told me bullcrap for 3 times.
in addition to my gas mileage woes, i have been noticing slight "clunks" in the front end when i stop or start. not sure if its coming from the struts or tranny. any suggestions?
I posted this a while ago last summer but did not get a response. My Accord leaks water into the passenger side floor when the A/C unit is on. It blows cold air, but when I take a turn water drips all over the floor. Does anyone know what is causing this??
This probably means the drain hose is blocked, or severed short of the drain on the outside of the car. You need a qualified mechanic to get in there and see which is true.
Mine had been doing the creaking from the rear window, actually it has done that since new, but only when it's like below freezing outside--Weird! Hasn't been cold enough the last two weeks. I also have gas mileage issues, 21-22mpg! Sad, eventually I'm going to off my Accord for a full-size SUV and suffer 3-5mpg.
I'm new to this discussion! And I'm here cos I'm having problems with my honda accord!!!
I bought a 2001 Honda Accord EX 4 cylinder car in feb of 2001. I have driven around 20K miles. I have bought the extended warranty as well.
Just 2 weeks ago, I went for a regular oil change. At that time, they said that the differential seal was broken and that needed to be replaced and the warranty covers that. I said ok. On friday night, as i was driving, the maintenance required light came on. And saturday night the check engine light came on. This morning (monday) i warmed up my car and as I was driving, I had to press on the gas very hard to get it rolling. The rpm shot up as well.
I took the car to the dealer and they kept the car last night. This morning they call up and say that the transmission needs to be replaced!!! Does any one believe this? The dealer said that they don't know the exact reason but they have to replace the tranny and send the damaged one to honda where the honda engineers will take a look at it.
Does any one have any idea if I can do anything about it? I understand that the tranny will be replaced but this is a black mark on my car! If I have to make use of the warranty like this, then what does that tell u about that car??? I called Honda and talked to a customer relations person and she said that Honda wont replace the car. My dealer said that I shouldn't worry about it cos I have the warranty!!!
Can I go to BBB??? Or can i do something about it??? I'd appreciate a reply!
I live in twin cities, minnesota. Thank you very much. I'd really appreciate if you e-mailed me back. Thank you again!
So the trans needs to be replaced and they plan to do it. This isn't great, but it isn't the end of the world, either. What do you want them, or the BBB, or anyone else, to do, exactly? Replace the car? Read your warranty...why in heaven's name should they give you a new car at 20k miles when the only thing it needs is a transmission?
Look, there is something inherently unreasonable about your expectations in this situation. At the end of the day, you're going to have a car with 20k miles on it and a new transmission...this doesn't sound bad to me, setting aside the trouble involved in having it out of service. Are they giving you a loaner in the meantime?
All I can say is, Honda's sure ain't what they used to be, especially these last two generation Honda's from like 94 to present. I'm not at all impressed with mine. Everytime I drive it, I like it less, and it's about 1.5 year old, and with around 30k. Very unhappy customer.
Thank you very much for the reply...I have calmed down...I don't know why I sounded excited at the first place
Anyways...thank you for your feedback...now my question is...suppose u were shopping for a used car...would u buy mine? and give me the same price as if it didn't have anything changed???
Has anyone with a 5-speed experienced a 'clunk' in first gear when releasing the clutch pedal? I currently have 41,000 miles. The prob. started around 37,000. No noise in 2nd thru 5th, just 1st. The sound is similar to a bad CV.
Also looking for anyone who has experienced stalling when clutch is depressed and brakes applied. Seems to usually happen in wet weather.
You're having a part replaced... granted, a very critical, complex and expensive part, but just a part. You're making it sound as if this is tantamount to your car having had extensive body work, unibody adjustment, etc. after a collision. It's not... your car will be the same as it's always been, just with the new part. I don't think this should have any bearing at all on the trade-in value or resale value.
Yes, I'm having the same clunk though it doesn't appear to happen all of the time. I have a 2000 LX. It also seems to happen when I stop. Any ideas? I only have 20000 miles on mine. Could it be a CV or perhaps a strut? Something else?
Hey dude, you were right, my heater core is busted up and they have to replace it... My only concern is if it's covered under warranty??? They replaced a grip of stuff on my car, and they were legit... My car is a wreck and i hope after the heater core replacement, nothing else goes wrong.
Did you ever get into an accident??? can you hear the clunking noise when you brake at low speeds??? It could be your front engine mount. If it's broken, it makes clunking noises. If thats not the problem, it MIGHT be that the bolts on your tires are loose. OR, last, but not least, the infamous transmission. I'd say you check it out B4 it's too late
zoomzoom79: i was already at the dealer! when i was there for my regular oil change, they said that the seal was broken and had to be replaced...so i waited till they got it fixed!
I have a 2000 5 speed. Does this happen as the clutch grabs in 1st gear? I have this to. Does it sound like the clutch is dropping on something?
If so I was told this was because my alarm siren was hitting my engine. Yes it is BS I know. There was another person on this board that had this problem. Sounds like that is how the transmission is.
However, I've never heard it as I stop. Does the noise happen as you release the clutch to stop or does it happen as the car come to a stop in neutral.
i was at the dealer for service today. and just out of curiosity, i asked the technician about the gas mileage normally get on accords. that's not the point here, i've been always using 91 octane for my 02 coupe ex-l instead of required 87, i thought it was better for the car. but when i was talking to the technician today, he told me that i shouldn't be using 91, i should be using 87 as required, that surprised me, cuz i always thought 91 octane is the best kind of gas and it's always a good thing to use it. i didn't have time to ask the technician cuz he was in a hurry, but is it actually NOT GOOD to use 91 for a 4 cylinder? should i change to 87? appreciate some replies.
Using higher octane fuel in this car is a complete waste of money - period. The engine's timing and compression are set to run on regular, and while you are doing no harm in using higher octane, it is simply a complete waste of 10-20 cents a gallon, whatever it costs in your area. There was a time when the additive package in some premiums was better than in regular, but that era passed some time ago, notwithstanding folk wisdom to the contrary. Fill up on 87 and keep your bucks.
Had an 89 Accord LXi, an 95 V6 EX and now an 00 V6 EX. On several occasions whenever someone put high octane gas in the 89 or 95 it would cause the check engine light to go on. It usually happened in the summer when family borrowed the car. The dealer tech said the engine light was being tripped because of the additives used to raise the octane had some adverse impact on the sensors when the outdoor temperature was too high. Don't know if that is truly what happened, but since both vehicles were under warranty, or Honda extended warranty I had no reason to question the answer as the service cost me nothing. Have not had any such problems with the new car, but don't know if anyone has run high octane through it yet.
...higher octane generally won't "hurt" anything, but it simply won't help anything, either. As the C & D test pointed out, depending on the individual car, there can actually be a small performance penalty. In any case, the advice stands:
Whatever Honda advises you to put in it in the owner's manual is all that is required...period. If they say it will run on 87 octane, my experience [and lots of others, apparently] is that anything else is just a needless transfer of wealth from you to your friendly multi-national oil company.
I sometimes hear the clunk as I'm coming to a stop with the car in neutral. This is the deal, I don't hear it all of the time. It seems to happen mostly when it's cold outside (below 35 degrees F) but even still, it doesn't happen all of the time. Thanks to hondaaccordguy and hbund216, you seem to know your stuff.
Thanks hbund216 and firstaccord. Yes, the clunk is happening when I release the clutch while in first. The clutch grabs and at the same time makes a clunk noise, almost like there is some sort of play in the trans. If you are rolling and release it (like when in traffic) you don't usually hear it. No, the car has never been in an accident and I have had it since new. This is my 5th or 6th car with stick. I know it's not me causing something to fail. I've gotten rid of all my cars with ~100K or greater on the odometer and never had to replace a clutch or trans. From a post I put on another board I heard from a guy who says he has 2 Accords with the same thing. But his '99 (3rd Accord) is not doing it yet. The dealer told him it was normal and not to worry about it. I still want to speak to a seasoned technician to see what he thinks but that guy's input sounds promising. So does yours hbund216.
I am not sure if this was covered before. I own a 97 accord dx with 5sp. From day one I have getting mileage around 25 in the city. Now the car has 65k on the odo, it has been getting 23 at best. Last fill up was at 21.4. This is all stop & go traffic . Last summer I drove the car for a 1200 mile trip and got about 36mpg @75mph strictly on hgwy with two people and luggage on board and a/c on full blast the whole trip. I shift at the recommended shift points in the manual and I do not race(too old for that). Can someone shed some light on this for me? Otherwise the car has been good to me(especially for a cheapskate like myself). thanks.
the trans problem is this; the differential bearing is bad in the trans, that allowed the inner c/v joint to wallow out the trans/axle seal.the next thing is your car has S.T.D. sticky throttle disease, this is common in 98 and up. the clearence between the butterfly and the throttle body has been changed[tightened] so what happens is the crud that collects where the butterfly closes in the throttle body sits over night cools down and turns to glue. the soloution is to scrub out that area with a soft bristle brush and some good carb cleaner. on now to the main't lite. do the required main't; to shut off the lite, key off. hold in the reset button, while holding the button turn the key on. about the time your finger gets a permanent dent from holding the button the main't lite will flash and reset. best of luck I hope this helps you
I took my '93 Accord in to have it checked out. The mechanic says the EGR valve is going bad and says the new one will cost @ $160 to replace w/o labor. Is this price reasonable?
I have a 1999 Accord EX V6 with 38000 miles on it. I was driving it the other day and noticed that the clock light was not working. Did any of you ever have this problem? If so what did you do to fix it?
I do not know pricing to well. Try calling around in your area for prices at Honda dealers and see what they say. If I remember I can ask our parts counter for the price but differant areas of the country get differant prices for things and since NJ over charges for everything we would probably be on the higher end.But I will check...
It is usally a bad clock light bulb and on the Accords the clock just pry's out and the bulb can be seen and changed easily. Dealers should stock the bulb as this happens often.
I know that you have answered this before, but could you give me detailed instructions for installing a new AC filter in my 2000 Accord LX Coupe. E-mail me if you like to a97accord@aol.com. Thanks in advance for your help.
Ive been reading this board because I'm looking at Honda Accord. But the reason I'm looking for a new car kinda sucks.
I had my Toyota Corolla 1995 in the shop for what I thought was for a Alternator problem.
The service guy said the harmonic balancer bolt broke off and he couldnt tap it to fix it. So he suggested putting in a used engine. Instead of pulling the camshaft out and fixing it.
He put the rebuilt in and after about 2 hours of driving my transmission began to slip. I was about 1 mile from his shop and drove it there. He takes no responsiblity for the trans. Even though it worked perfectly prior to him pulling the trans.
When I first picked up the car, he told me that he had to remove the trans and shim it. because he forgot to shim the engine when he put it in.
He says since the trans worked when I picked it up he takes no fault 2 hours later.
Needless to say I'm steamed. Do I have a case here? I stoped payment on my visa and will sue him. I have no alternative. All he suggested was putting in a used trans and not charging me labor. I have no trust in his labor at all.
I hope I'm making sense, does it sound like his work caused this new trans problem to you?
First you have to remove the little center cover under the radio which is held in by 2 screws and 2 clips. Then you have to remove the lower coverby removing the screw in the left corner and the two on the right side under the fuse cover then pulling on it to release the rest of the clips holding it in. Now remove the screws for the glove box, there is like 2 under the corner covers the two in the middle and the three on the bottom side.Now remove the cross over support bar and the trap door for the filter. Forgive me if I left out a screw or two I do this by habbit more than I do by direction.Good luck
I do not know much about Toyotas and the shims you are refering to but it is possible,however unlikely that the trans went bad on its own. Did you check the fluid level and see if they forgot to add trans fluid? Have you called a toyota dealer and ask them about the shims and their importance to the trans operation? It sounds as if something they done probably caused the problem but it would be nice to find some further proof. Sorry to hear of your problems and good luck with the out come..
Comments
Thanks
The first problem is the alignement. I took it to the dealer and they sent it to an alignment shop. Although the alignment was better, it still pulled to the left. The dealer tried to fix it by rotating my tires but that was to no avail. They now want to install an aftermarket part to try and correct the caster/camber. I am weary of this because of future implications this part might have on my waranty.
As for the second problem, I have a creaking noise coming from my back right rear window area. The dealer has yet to determine if it can be attributed to the glass manufacturer or themselves. I was hoping someone might shed some insight on either/both of these problems. Perhaps someone out there has encountered similar problems.
alignement? nah nah nah, it's the rims, u gotta figure out which one is pulling and tell them to change it, cuz it has structural errors and it's frigging impossible to balance a tire on it. don't try what aftermarket stuff, the dealer's just trying to fool u. and that rattle? i don't know, i have it too but my dealer wouldn't do anything about it. and i have more problems than u do. and those ones that are not important, i wouldn't even bother, cuz i know my dealer wouldn't do anything. i'm hella disappointed but oh well, it doesn't break down and i'm just driving it. oh, and btw, if u want ur rim changed under warranty, u might have to do something aggressive, cuz i went to talk to the manager to get it fixed, after those "advisors" told me bullcrap for 3 times.
I also have gas mileage issues, 21-22mpg! Sad, eventually I'm going to off my Accord for a full-size SUV and suffer 3-5mpg.
I'm new to this discussion! And I'm here cos I'm having problems with my honda accord!!!
I bought a 2001 Honda Accord EX 4 cylinder car in feb of 2001. I have driven around 20K miles. I have bought the extended warranty as well.
Just 2 weeks ago, I went for a regular oil change. At that time, they said that the differential seal was broken and that needed to be replaced and the warranty covers that. I said ok. On friday night, as i was driving, the maintenance required light came on. And saturday night the check engine light came on. This morning (monday) i warmed up my car and as I was driving, I had to press on the gas very hard to get it rolling. The rpm shot up as well.
I took the car to the dealer and they kept the car last night. This morning they call up and say that the transmission needs to be replaced!!! Does any one believe this? The dealer said that they don't know the exact reason but they have to replace the tranny and send the damaged one to honda where the honda engineers will take a look at it.
Does any one have any idea if I can do anything about it? I understand that the tranny will be replaced but this is a black mark on my car! If I have to make use of the warranty like this, then what does that tell u about that car???
I called Honda and talked to a customer relations person and she said that Honda wont replace the car. My dealer said that I shouldn't worry about it cos I have the warranty!!!
Can I go to BBB??? Or can i do something about it??? I'd appreciate a reply!
I live in twin cities, minnesota. Thank you very much. I'd really appreciate if you e-mailed me back. Thank you again!
So the trans needs to be replaced and they plan to do it. This isn't great, but it isn't the end of the world, either. What do you want them, or the BBB, or anyone else, to do, exactly? Replace the car? Read your warranty...why in heaven's name should they give you a new car at 20k miles when the only thing it needs is a transmission?
Look, there is something inherently unreasonable about your expectations in this situation. At the end of the day, you're going to have a car with 20k miles on it and a new transmission...this doesn't sound bad to me, setting aside the trouble involved in having it out of service. Are they giving you a loaner in the meantime?
Anyways...thank you for your feedback...now my question is...suppose u were shopping for a used car...would u buy mine? and give me the same price as if it didn't have anything changed???
Also looking for anyone who has experienced stalling when clutch is depressed and brakes applied. Seems to usually happen in wet weather.
If so I was told this was because my alarm siren was hitting my engine. Yes it is BS I know. There was another person on this board that had this problem. Sounds like that is how the transmission is.
However, I've never heard it as I stop. Does the noise happen as you release the clutch to stop or does it happen as the car come to a stop in neutral.
Whatever Honda advises you to put in it in the owner's manual is all that is required...period. If they say it will run on 87 octane, my experience [and lots of others, apparently] is that anything else is just a needless transfer of wealth from you to your friendly multi-national oil company.
No, the car has never been in an accident and I have had it since new. This is my 5th or 6th car with stick. I know it's not me causing something to fail. I've gotten rid of all my cars with ~100K or greater on the odometer and never had to replace a clutch or trans.
From a post I put on another board I heard from a guy who says he has 2 Accords with the same thing. But his '99 (3rd Accord) is not doing it yet. The dealer told him it was normal and not to worry about it. I still want to speak to a seasoned technician to see what he thinks but that guy's input sounds promising. So does yours hbund216.
I have 129K miles on it and it is still running okay..
Ive been reading this board because I'm looking at Honda Accord. But the reason I'm looking for a new car kinda sucks.
I had my Toyota Corolla 1995 in the shop for what I thought was for a Alternator problem.
The service guy said the harmonic balancer bolt broke off and he couldnt tap it to fix it. So he suggested putting in a used engine. Instead of pulling the camshaft out and fixing it.
He put the rebuilt in and after about 2 hours of driving my transmission began to slip. I was about 1 mile from his shop and drove it there. He takes no responsiblity for the trans. Even though it worked perfectly prior to him pulling the trans.
When I first picked up the car, he told me that he had to remove the trans and shim it. because he forgot to shim the engine when he put it in.
He says since the trans worked when I picked it up he takes no fault 2 hours later.
Needless to say I'm steamed. Do I have a case here? I stoped payment on my visa and will sue him. I have no alternative. All he suggested was putting in a used trans and not charging me labor. I have no trust in his labor at all.
I hope I'm making sense, does it sound like his work caused this new trans problem to you?
Thanks for any help
Scott