Honda Accord Problems 2000-2005

bburton1

Sounds like you are dealing with a crooked dealer. Do not go near them again. Honda gas tanks will rust away from the outside-had to replace one on a 80 accord after 15 years. This dealer may have done damage to your vehicle-how is it running-what is it doing-did it do this before visiting the dealer or only after. Sounds like you have a 100% crook on your hands.

Does he happen to be located in the mid west.

gaby4

This is just to warn everyone! I own a '93 Honda Accord with approx. 97,000 miles on it. I had the timing belt changed at 86,000 and as luck would have it I was unaware of the problem (Honda claims it's only on the '94-'97 model year Accords) pertaining to the Balancer Shaft Seal. Mine just let go and I am looking at $650+ in repair costs. Called Honda at their toll free # 1-800-999-1009 and they could have cared less. I hope someone else learns from this posting and doesn't have to suffer the consequences that I have. Anyone else have this problem on a '93 ?

maxhonda99

I thought gas tanks were made out of some sort of plastic these days.

sukal

Last September I bought a used 1992 Honda Accord Ex with 96500 miles on it. Within a week I felt that the brake pedal kept going down and I took it to a mechanic. He diagnosed it as a leaking Brake Master cylinder and asked me to replace it. I told him to go ahead and replace it. Things worked fine for 4-5 months but then the brake pedal again started going down if you held on it for some time (like waiting at a stop light). I took it back and the same mechanic said that the Brake Master cylinder was again leaking and replaced it again. Now the brake would nearly hit the floor before it gets engaged. I pointed this out and he suggested that I get the brake pads replaced. I asked him to do so too, but still the problem is that the pedal has to go down quite some way before the brake engages; which makes it feel that the brakes are failing. I asked him to rectify this but he said there is nothing more that he can do. So I am driving it around like this only. Is there any way I can get my brakes to perform normally (so that the brakes engaged when you step on the brake pedal and not when you really push the pedal nearly to the floor).

mwcarlso

The recall on the balancer shaft oil seal was only for the 94-97 Accord. This is a well known problem on 90-97 Accords. Honda probably only recalled the 94-97 Accords because most 90-93 Accords were well out of warranty by that time. The fix involves replacing the seal and installing a retainer to keep the seal in place. The seal is made by a company called Chicago Seal Clamp Inc. Their web site is http://www.chicagosealclamp.com/product.html

Is the $650 repair bill you quoted for the replacement of the seal and timing belt? Hopefully you did not incur any engine damage from the loss of oil. I have a 93 Accord EX with 147,000 miles on it and I plan to install this retainer when I replace the timing belt this summer. Happy motoring.

sukal

I was wondering how important is it to get the timing belt changed at 90,000 miles. I bought a used 1992 Accord Ex with 96,500 miles on it and now it has 102k miles on it. Should I go for the change. What would be the right price for it ? Also do I need to get any other belts replaced at 90k (or any other parts). I have no idea of how the vehicle was maintained by the previous owner.

mwcarlso

Sukal, I would find a new mechanic to check out your brakes. This is a very dangerous situation. I wonder if the mechanic bled the system properly when he replaced the master cylinder. Any air in the system will make the pedal go almost to the floor. You could also have a slow brake fluid leak in one of the brake hoses. Take it to a mechanic who will actually take the time to fix the problem. Also, did the mechanic use Honda brake pads? They tend to last longer and make less noise than other generic pads.
Get your car looked at ASAP. Good luck.

sukal

Well he did say that he bled the brake system twice. And I do not think that he used Honda brake pads.
If there is a leak in the brake hoses then should the level of the brake fluid not go down? I checked the level of the brake fluid and it stays constant at the Max level.

mwcarlso

Sukal, I would get the timing belt changed because if it fails you will damage the valves and a major engine rebuild will be in store. I would try and find a shop that specializes in fixing Hondas because it will definitely be cheaper than the dealer. The dealer will probably charge $700-$800 to change the timing belt and an independent shop will probably charge $300-$500. Make sure you read my earlier post (message 2556) about the balancer shaft oil seal retainer. If you have the timing belt changed make sure they install this retainer so you can save your self from more costly repairs down the road.

mwcarlso

Sukal, did your mechanic replace the master cylinder with a new Honda part, a rebuilt part, or a generic part from a auto parts store? It sounds as if the master cylinder could again be faulty. If he didn't use a Honda part, ask him to put on a Honda one and see if things improve. Also, have the mechanic check the brake booster to make sure it is functioning properly. If you have an EX then you have rear disc brakes which I think are supposed to be self adjusting. If you had rear drum brakes then they might need to be adjusted. I am running out of ideas for now.
Good luck.

jrct9454

...switch to a shop that knows what it is doing. The symptoms described clearly indicate a leak in the system, and this guy is also clearly unable to solve the problem. This is not brain surgery, or even rocket science...repeatedly replacing the master cylinder isn't solving the problem because it probably isn't the source of the problem...

robr2

I would also replace the water pump at the same time. They have to move it out of the way to get to the timing belt so you might as well do it.

kliu

The link is at the Homepage of edmunds.com, scroll down until you see Service/Maintenance, on the right is Ownership, and just underneath is the link "How much..." Does the dealer go easy on people whose warranty expired two days ago?

auburn63

when the master cylynder is replaced the tech is supposed to check to make sure the push rod depth is the same and if not adjust it. Most of the time with a Honda replacement part this is not necesary but if it is an aftermarket part then it should be done. Other than that air in the system can be the cause as could a sticking caliper pin slide and or a bad caliper itself. You need to have a better tech look at and diag your car or so it seems..Good luck.

padre2

I own a 1989 Honda Accord and the windshield wiper fluid does not come out any more. Is anyone aware what might cause that problem. I thought there might be a motor that push the fluid through the system but couldn't find it. Honda makes it very difficult to work on a car without having it lifted up. Any information would be appreciated.

sukal

Well the second time around, he did say that he put in a Honda master cylinder. How can I check this ? And yes, it is an EX model.
The problem is not that the brakes do not engage; its that for the brakes to engage, I have to push the pedal quite a way down (nearly 2 inches). And pumping the brakes doesnt have any affect.
Thanks, everyone for your advise. I plan to take my Accord to a Honda dealer now to that he can check it out.

mwcarlso

Do you hear the sound of a motor working when you try to use the windshield fluid? If not you need to put in a new motor which should be very cheap. The motor is down by the washer fluid reservoir in the front of the engine compartment. It might be buried down there. If the motor does work, then one of the washer hoses might be kinked or the jets on the hood could be clogged. If you lift the hood, the washer hoses will be clipped to the hood closest to the fire wall. Make sure the hoses are attached properly. Hope this helps.

carcraze3

My 95 accord lx's AC is not throwing cool air... I asked a local repair shop.. he said probably the cause is low freon & it'd cost me 200 $ to get it fixed....

are there any do-it-yourself kits available in market for doing this stuff?

altair4

Hi all,

We have a 97 Honda Accord SE, 35,000 miles, no significant problems. But I do have a minor problem with the radio reception on AM. Yeah, yeah, I know, who listens to AM? Sports Talk and All News Radio are there, and I like to hear the latest.

Anyway...I had this exact same problem when the car was about 1.5 years old. The dealer was initially unresponsive to my problem, saying it's not a defect but a dirty or corroded connection. The car was within the warranty period and I also have the extended Honda Care warranty. In the end, I involved my salesperson and they fixed it as a 'goodwill' gesture. The problem is back...

When the engine is running, I'm getting a load of static on AM. FM is unaffected. If you shut off the engine, the static goes away. The last time, they cleaned some terminal or connection, which perfectly restored the reception. I don't know if it is at the back of the radio or at the window antenna.

Anyone with this problem? Any suggestions on a fix? Where is the connection? Any suggestions on how to pull the radio out of the dash? It's the AM/FM/CD unit. TIA.

racer_x_9

If you are low on Freon, it is because it is leaking from somewhere. Filling it will only fix the problem for awhile (one summer). Make sure they find and fix the leak before filling.

Had this problem in a 94 civic and it turned out to be a hole in the condensor.

letsrock

I noticed on our Accord V6, the radiator is not attached tightly to the frame at the top. I can grab the top of the radiator and there is at least a good 1/2 inch of wiggle. Is that by design, and what would be the reason for that?

Thanks in advance.

auburn63

That is by design and they say they mount it that way to reduce vibrations transmitting to the body..

letsrock

BTW, what colour should healthy radiator fluid in the Accord be? Is the fluid corrosive if you spill it on surrounding engine parts/wiring?

brettwerly

I have a couple of paint chips on the hood of my Accord.... What is the best procedure for using touch up paint? I got the Honda touch up paint that matches my color (silver). One of the chips goes down to bare metal...

thanks - brett

brettwerly

I think Honda's make pretty good products, but...

My 1991 Civic had *MUCH* better workmanship than my 2001 Accord EX-L. Better door seals, less flimsy door panels, tighter fit/finish, more "solid feel". As an engineer, I *do not* attribute this to American vs Japanese assembly. Most of these issues are design/engineering issues, no doubt attributable to cost cutting. I think this is a false economy, because it leads to the perception that Honda *overall* quality is decreasing, even though it is (probably) just the surface quality that has decreased.

I love the handling/acceleration of my Accord 5 sp/4cyl... Even if it is not a RWD/AWD 260 HP sports car...

V/R - brett

bburton1

Have been getting a CEL showing up as evaporative system, #1457 if I recall correctly. Dealer replaced a bunch of stuff under the extended pollution control warranty and did not solve the problem. Would clear the CEL and usually after second time driving vehicle after filling up, CEl came on-same code. Well I thinks-what changed was me filling the tank. Replaced the gas cap and no more CEL. So if you have a CEL issue with the evap system-maybe replacing the cap would solve the problem. Cost $6.50 but the warranty would have covered it if I had insisted-not worth the hassle.

No apparent damage the the o ring or cap on the old cap.

jaynich

I just put a deposit down on a '99 V6 EX with 24k mi. I have a few questions. After reading about 100 messages on the board, I have not yet seen many "must fixes". Is there anything I should know/do right away?

Also, do owners of the V6 recommend Mobil-1?

I plan to use the recommended regular gas, but is there any noticable difference with higher octane?

Should I do anything regularly to the leather seats?

Thanks in advance for any responses.

Can't wait to take my "new" Accord through the paces! My 96 LX-4 was a great car!

Jay

gajendran

Hi all
My accord has about 16 K Miles on it and is about 1.5 years old. Recently, noticed some noise and the dealer has diagnosed it to be a transmission problem!! (This is my second bad experience with Honda). Has anyone had a similar experience and if so what did you do ? Any help is greatly appreciated.

Gajendran

sukal

Does anybody know which type of engine a 1992 Honda Accord EX has, non-interference engine or an interference engine?

mwcarlso

Your engine is classified as an interference engine which means that if the timing belt breaks, then the valves will get crushed and you will be looking at a major engine overhaul. Your best bet is to change the timing belt if it is past due. Even though you have to spend some bucks up front you will save yourself money in the long run.

rbruehl

I had my transmission replaced in my V-6 Accord--not once--but twice. The second time was the last time and I no longer own an Accord. Bought a Toyota Solara that shifts real smooth.

This was was last Honda product that I will ever buy.

beachnut

I have an '00 SE that's had this dash rattle for quite some time. It comes from the little pull out storage drawer to the left of the steering wheel. I've removed the drawer a couple of times and tightened the four phillips screws that I can see, but the rattle still persists. It's a seemingly minor problem, but it drives me absolutely bonkers sometimes!:(

SC

gajendran

rbruehl
Thanks for your post. I agree with you. This is the last time I am buying anything from HONDA!!

/****************/
I had my transmission replaced in my V-6 Accord--not once--but twice. The second time was the last time and I no longer own an Accord. Bought a Toyota Solara that shifts real smooth.

This was was last Honda product that I will ever buy.

tntitan

I also have a 00' SE but fortunately I do not have the rattle. I assume you have emptied the storage drawer to prevent the rattle - but have you tried removing it to confirm that this is where the source of the rattle?

Just curious but what MPG do you get? I drive about 90% in the city and run the A/C about 7 months of the year. After 29K I have averaged about 25.5 MPG. Boring as hell to look at but I really can't find anything to dislike about the car.

altair4

Can anyone give me a hint on how to pull the radio from the dash of a 97 Accord SE? Bueller? Bueller?

beachnut

LOL! I didn't think you COULD put anything in that drawer! It's pretty much useless to me, so it's always empty. The rattle still exists with the drawer completely removed, but seems to be worse with it in place. It has something to do with that area. I had a '99 LX (that we traded for our MPV), no drawer rattle, but the storage drawer under the radio rattled (argh!). What's up with Honda? I thought fit and finish was supposed to be *superior*?

I really haven't been keeping up on gas mileage lately. When I was checking it, I was getting around 30mpg in all highway driving and 24mpg around town, so somewhere in-between for mixed driving. Your mpg sounds right on to me. I use AC about 9-10 months per year. Boring to look at? Did you get green or gold? '00 was the first year that Ruby Pearl was offered again for a while and only in the SE. I like it a lot! The alloys on that particular model are the best looking ones ever on an Accord IMHO.

SC

tntitan

The drawer is small. I park in my garage so I keep my housekey there since I never use the damn thing.

I got the dark green and it looks great when it is all cleaned up but by boring I just meant the whole midsize 4 door sedan thing.

Did you get the Michelin MXV4 tires on yours? How do you like them? I think they ride great on the highway, very quiet, and I can't tell that I have any treadwear yet. However, I just don't think the wet weather traction is that great. I am considering the Dunlop A2 Sports at around 40K even if the tread is still looking good.

beachnut

I was going to get a green SE, but I didn't find it *green* enough, more like black. I had a black car once, they are hard to keep clean looking. Our 99 LX was white and that was boring. Everybody in FL drives white cars ... I just gotta be different!

Yes, I have the MXV4s and I do like them. I'm at 26K miles. I love that glass-lake ride on the highway! As you may have read in the Tires forum, I have three screws/nails in my back driver's side. I haven't decided what to do yet about replacement. I hate to go out and buy a pair of MXV4s, when I'd really like to have a better rain tire. Our rainy season here is about three months long, but very intense. I suppose the MXV4s are acceptable in the rain, but the X-Ones on my wife's MPV are so good in downpours. However, they're T rated instead of H, so they may not ride as nice on the Accord. So many people rave about the 'Lops and Yoko's. I may have to give them a closer look.

linuspbmo

I have a 88 Honda LX 4 DR with 4 cyl engine, 140,xxx miles. I have had very few problems with this car so far but the last year we haven't driven the car much (1,000 miles, it sits parked for up to a month at a time. The last few times I tried to drive it the check engine light comes on and the 5 speed transmission will not engage. The engine revs and sounds fine but when you let the clutch out, nothing. If you try several times, the light won't come on and the car drives OK. Is there a clutch disconnect or is it a computer problem. Has anyone heard of this before.

Thanks

spaceinvader

Regarding transmission problems, I own a 2000 Accord LX V6 with approximately 47,000 miles. The transmission has worked perfectly to date. I am posting this message just to note that some people have had NO problem with their Honda automatic transmission.

spaceinvader

I have used regular unleaded from day one (47k mile) and have not experienced any performance problems to date. Therefore, premium fuel is likely just a waste of money. If you read the owners manual it recommends standard grade fuel. So Honda does not think premium fuel is necessary either. I also doubt there is much benefit from the use of synthetic oil. Consumer Reports magazine tested motor oil last year (synthetic and non-synthetic). The test results did not show any material difference in the performance (i.e. engine wear) between the two oil types. Some people will likely have a different opinion than the magazine report, but unlike most consumers Consumer Reports magazine has hard test results to back up their findings. Good Luck!

isellhondas

The VAST MAJORITY of Accord owners have had no transmission problems!

But a couple who have love to come here and retell and retell and retell their tales of woe.

Even though they bought something else (that'll never cause any problems)a long time ago.

hbund216

Does the rattle stop if you press the plastic AC vent frame or the rotary knob used to direct air flow? If so I have it also. Although mine sounds like it is rubbing against something. The solution has been discussed by someone else a while ago. I might have a print out of the solution. Let me know

mazda_jim

My 2000 EX V6 also had that rattle in the area of the pull-out coin drawer. I got rid of it by removing the coin drawer/vent unit and wrapping cloth tape around almost everything in sight before reinstalling it.
I resorted to a similar tactic to quell a terrible rattle coming from the stereo head unit (especially on cold days). It turned out that the metal frame or cage holding the stereo electronics was rattling because the joints and corners were not crimped down tightly enough.
Also, like many Accord/Acura TL owners, I must apply silicon to the sunroof frame every 6 months or so to avoid that rattle. I still haven't tackled the intermittent rattles in the front door panels and the sunglass holder, but those are less annoying than the others.
I may have had unrealistically high expectations for the Accord due to Honda's reputation for quality, but this car has exhibited pretty mediocre build quality for a $23K+ sedan, IMHO.

letsrock

There is a tape that the dealer can install on the edge of the roof opening which may be a more permanent fix for the rattle than using silicon. Also, is the rattle in the sunglass holder caused by the sunglasses themselves? I've padded my sunglass holder with felt strips in strategic locations to alleviate that. I think the mediocre build quality extends all the way up from the Accord to the more expensive TL/CL. When we took delivery of our '02 Accord SE, the hood was sitting about 1/3 of an inch too far forward, resulting in an unsightly gap between the hood and the fender near the front. The dealer adjusted the hood at the hinge which reduced the problem somewhat but it is still not perfect. And have you notice that 8 out of 10 Accords/TL/CL the bottom edges of the front doors don't line up with the bottom of the fender. It will be interesting to see whether this deteriorating trend in build quality continues with the upcoming '03 Accord.

beachnut

... so far, so good. 26K on my '00 SE, plus over 50K on my old '99 LX. Only two problems, both on the SE: the fan speed knob, and a mallet-thump sound upon start-up. Thanks to someone on this board (sorry, can't remember who), I found a TSB for a vacuum mount fix and the issue was resolved. Every now and then the tranny does the quirky torque converter shimmy, but Honda says it's normal. I hope so, because I want to keep this car for more than the obligatory three years (yes, the d/w will always get the new car!) I have noticed that the I4 will knock on quick acceleration, but I will live with it compared to the price of premium fuel.

The build quality, as many others have stated, is not what I expected though. Gaps? Sure. Rattles? I've got 'em. Uncomfortable seats? My back says YES! BUT, since '99, I have never been back to the Honda dealer until last month. That's more than I can say about many other cars I've owned in the past and many on the the road today!

mazda_jim - thanks for the ideas, I was going to resort to something along those same lines. I'm not sure how dealers (esp. Honda dealers) deal with rattles, I just always figured they wouldn't do much.

hbund216 - I would greatly appreciate any further input, was that a TSB? Or a self-fix like mazda_jim's?

SC

mazda_jim

Letsrock: Thanks for the advice on the sunroof tape. I'll ask for that fix at the upcoming 30K service. As for the sunglass holder rattle, I rarely ever use that compartment, so I don't think that's the cause. I haven't noticed the misaligned doors you mentioned, mostly because I haven't looked for it. I have, however, noticed that at least 50% of the 98-02 Accords I see in traffic have misaligned trunk lids. Mine is one of those (same for the hood). Of course, that percentage is closer to 100% for certain American models, so everything is relative, I guess.

beachnut: You hit the nail on the head about this car. All of my problems have been cosmetic or so minor that they are not worth a trip to the dealer. The car basically runs like a top and has required no unscheduled maintenance in close to two years and over 25K miles. It's just the cumulative effect of the little quirks and annoyances that has made this a fairly disappointing purchase overall (especially in light of the rave reviews Honda generally gets).

The thing that has surprised me most since I got this car is the fact that I almost always would rather take my old '94 Protege for a drive unless I need the Accord's room or its automatic transmission for heavy traffic. Perhaps there is something to the talk about the mid-80s to mid-90s being a "golden age" for Japanese car makers.

beachnut

Good tip my friend! My rattle IS that rotary knob. It appears the drawer has nothing to do with it. On my way into work this morning, the rattle started, I pushed down on that knob, and voila - no more rattle! Now if I could just figure out how to fix it.

SC

dudleyr

I am having a problem with the condenser fan running too long on my '90 Honda. If I use the A/C and stop the car the condenser fan starts up/keeps running for a very long time (it does stop eventually though) - sometimes long enough to effect the battery. This also happens if I have not been running the A/C. When I pull the fuse for the condensor fan it does not run, but then I have no A/C. I have had the fuse out all winter, but I will need to use A/C before long. (I can use the A/C still, I just have to pull the fuse when I stop so the battery does not run down - the battery is new so the problem is not there)

My car does not run hot, and there is plenty of coolant. The A/C works very well - so I don't think it needs more coolant. Could this be a problem with a relay somewhere? Could it be a sensor that is defective? Any suggestions?

Thanks!

mwcarlso

Most of the transmission problems seem to be occuring on vehicles with a V-6 engine. I think you should definetely call Honda's 1800 number and voice a complaint. This is obviously a manufacturers defect, the car is only a year old! If you can prove that you have done all of the required maintenance then I think it is only fair that Honda pay 100% of the repair bill. Hopefully Honda will do the right thing so they won't lose you as a customer too.