I have had that problem once on my '99 1.8T GLS but I attribute it to the sloppy procedures at the local fast oil change servicecenter. They paid for a new one ($118.00) and I put it on myself. I can see where the fast oilchangers would have problems because there are about 10 fasteners, some of them hard to get at. Never had a problem when I took it to the dealer tho.
MY 99 PASSAT GLX FAILED TO START FOR THE SECOND TIME(45,000 MILES),I HAD THE CAR TOWED IN.THEY TOLD ME MY PLUGS WERE FOULED AND I NEEDED A TUNE-UP AND FUEL INJECTION CLEANING $500+.I TOLD THEM NO BUT AGREED TO A OIL CHANGE AND NEW SPARK PLUGS.MY OIL HAD 3500 MILES(MOBIL 1) AND THE PLUGS WERE CHANGED 14,000 AGO BY THE SAME DEALER, SAME PROBLEM. $350 LATER THE CAR WAS FINE.VOLKSWAGEN COULDN'T CARE LESS WHAT CAUSED THE PROBLEM,THEY EVEN SUGGESTED IT COULD BE THE OIL GETTING THICK ON A COLD DAY(GERMANY MUST BE MUCH WARMER THAN I THOUGHT).I AM GOING TO HAVE THE COMPRESSION CHECKED BECAUSE OF THE CAR USING OIL(1 QUART EVERY 3,000 MILES)AND THEY NOTED LOW COMPRESSION THE FIRST TIME I HAD IT TOWED IN.I LIKE THE CAR,BUT IF VOLKSWAGEN CAN'T FIND AND FIX MY PROBLEM,IT WILL BE THE LAST ONE I BUY.
First, a gentle reminder that using all CAPS implies that you are yelling, and it's difficult to read, as well.
Second, they charged you $350 for sparkplugs and an oil change? Time to find another shop! For the add'l $150, I might have gone for the injector cleaning (in for a penny, in for a £). Or am I not reading this correctly?
A little more detail about your car would be helpful. Are you the original owner? How frequently has the oil been changed in the past? This is the 2.8 V-6, right? If so, it has a track record for consuming oil, but a quart every 3,000 miles is not all that bad, in the grand scheme of things (there's people dumping in a quart every 1,000 miles). What viscosity of Mobil 1 are you using?
Once you give us a little more info, perhaps others here can help you. Personally, I'd look at either having the car checked over by another dealership (some are better than others) or search around for a VW specialty independent shop for further help. I'd also buy a couple of bottles of Techron and run those through the fuel system and see if that doesn't help.
I've had the wheel noise problem in the past (Posted somewhere in this history). After complaining a couple times about it the dealer found that bearings needed replacement. Conveniently after the warranty was up. Have your mechanic check that out!
I had my 2k1 GLX in for its 40k tuneup. I started getting the emissions workshop message and the car started stuttering. Turned out that the dealer put in a broken sparkplug.
Most recently, this week, the message came up again. I took it to a VW mechanic (I've given up on the dealer) and the 'puter said that the secondary emissions valve faulted. He checked it and said it was fine. He reset the 'puter and told us if it happens again to let him know. It's happened again....
I have a 2001.5 GLX. I love the car, but seem to be having a problem with the heated seats. Both front seat heaters do not seem to work unless they are set on "5." It is strange that the problem affects both seats. I wonder if the heated seat controls have a resistor pack in them similiar to the ones found in blower controls.
Has anyone had a similiar problem and what was the cause?
I recently moved to a new area, and took my 2002 Passat to a new authorized VW dealer and service center for its 10k mile service. The service agent advised me to get a brake flush for $100. They said that they recommend that folks get it every year. I am skeptical. Is this something that I need to do? Thanks. This was the best board I could find for this posting.
Looks like you have a dealer who likes to "upsell" the maintenance. I'd watch them like a hawk for the big service intervals coming up (I don't have my manual with me but 40,000 mile is a biggie, maybe 20K, too?). You'll want to make sure they are following the manufacturer's service recommendations, not the dealer's.
Please tell me why it takes VW so long to fix this problem? I have been inconvenienced, almost killed, and extremely annoyed over this engine coil problem, and it still is remaining unresolved. When VW knows a problem exists but only offers to fix them one at a time until all 4 are replaced I find hard to believe, with the amount of money I pay each month for this car, it should be reliable, and it is not. I could continue with the list of problems I have had in the two years that I have had this car... brakes, new transmission, electrical problems, monsoon stereo failures, and of course the engine coils, have 2 that are old and 2 that are new, still waiting for the other 2 to fail and strand me somewhere far from home... But that's right, VW will at least come get you, great roadside assistance package. I think people should beware of VW, they DO NOT stand behind their cars. Something you should realize when you get a VW, it will be a fight to fix the problems, problems they know are there and just won't resolve them.
My 2002 Passat GLX has almost 70,000 miles. I've had two instances where the vehicle will not start. The first time I just kept cranking and pushing the accelerator until it started. I took the car to the dealer who could not find any indication of the problem on the vehicle's computer. The same thing happened to me on May 2. However, this time it would not start no matter how long in cranked. I left the car overnight, came back the next morning and the car started right up like normal. Has anyone else had similar problems and is there an explaination?
I have had the same problems at 53K. Hot starts are always a fun time. Brought it to dealer, says sensor needs to be replaced. Part costs $7, labor is $150. It measures the amount of fuel is needed to start/run the engine. Seems when it fails, it doesn't measure properly and can flood the engine or stall it out. Seems to be happiest when starting after resting overnight. Also have had grinding noise from wheels, dealer says both front wheel bearings are going. $500+. Seems a little early in the car's life cycle. I've owned Toyota's, Honda's well into 100k miles, never needed to replace wheel bearings. These expensive problems conveniently start after the short 2 yr warranty expires. Is it me, or are these failures a little much for a vehicle pampered to 53K miles?
I need some help. My 2002 VW passat GLS has been through the ignition coil problems... (30 days in the shop) now after 12K miles the breaks squeak. The dealer's inspection showed that front break pads are at 90% while the back at 60%.... is that normal with VWs? Also, after the ignition coils replacements the car lost at least 20% of power. The acceleration is so weak and the engine is loud. I took it to the dealer twice but all they did was run a computer check and tell me that everything is fine... Any suggestions.
My wife took our brand new Passat in today for a squeak and a couple of creaking noises. Dealer seems to have fixed the squeak - adjusted back seat latch. But the creak from suspension area is still there. After searching these discussions I'm betting that the bushings are bad and just need to be replace. However, we didn't mention that to the dealer b/c we were unaware of that solution. The dealer seems to think that it is a "noisy axle" and has ordered a new one and told us to bring it back in a few days. This makes me extremely nervous. I can picture issues for the rest of the life of the car after this procedure. Obviously before we let them do this we will mention the bushings but my question is this: how big of a job is replacing an axle? and should I let this happen? Other issue was a creaking sound in the steering column when we turn the wheel - plastic on plastic sound. The dealer basically said, "Well, it could be a lot of things in there, we'll lube it and hope its to your satisfaction". Of course it isn't, this sound is now worse than it was before. PLEASE ADVISE. THANKS.
I have no comments on the efficacy of replacing the axle towards solving your noise problem, but I will comment that replacing an axle in a FWD vehicle is a snap. It's frequently done when the CV boots (the rubber accordian-like thing at the ends of the shaft) tear, allowing the joint to be contaminated. I wouldn't give it a second thought. Out of curiosity, are they using a new axle or a rebuilt axle?
Altair4, thanks for the reply. I assume that they are ordering a new axle but since you mentioned it I will ask. I don't think I'm going to let them put a rebuilt axle in there since I have only 3k miles on the car.
Today VW is in the process of replacing my Cat Converters ...under warrenty!!!! However, my buddy did suggest that if the cause could have been the 93 octane gasoline. He suggested to alternative between 89 and 93 Octane during gas fill-ups. To me that's a Grrreat idea !!! considering VW shows a rating of 91 to be used. We both agree that VW would check out any other operating parts that may fail prematurely ...VW is doing this work under warrenty...and I am sure happy that my VW is in their hands...because its a BIG job...and they will do it right!!! The $64KKKK questions is: Does anyone have suggestions on how I could avoid this from happening again... I am driving a rental car...its no fun...my VW is light years ahead. Scottie
Well I bought a 2000 GLX V6 with 33,500 miles on it and the whole time I test drove the car I did not notice the hesitation while accelerating from a dead stop. Maybe I was heavier on the gas pedal when it was not mine.
Now that I have had it for almost a week I have noticed that when I start from a dead stop gently pressing on the accelerator, trying to start smoothly without gunning it, it starts off sluggish until I press hard and seems a little jerky. After I get going it seems fine.
I have skimmed/read all the previous posts and get the impression that this is just how it is. Something about fly by wire or something. Is this true or does it sound like I should take her in for a look?
If the skid plate keeps coming loose, obviously the bolts are stripped or damaged. You might try some non-permanent locktite as used on motorcycles but really you need to clean these bolts thoroughly and examine them for thread damage.
It ain't no skidplate - don't try skidding on it - you'll be sorry. Oil pans will break! Tears will flow. Slow down, take it easy. If not - get a Hummer - plenty of clearance for dip skippers and bump jumpers. Also, it is hard to imagine any sort of intake air metering system w/o a throttle butterfly. In addition, most engines have at least a short throttle cable to a throttle position sensor that is then "wired" to the "computer" that is in turn "wired" to the throttle actuator/idle speed actuator/cruise control actuator.
the 2000 wagon was recalled for an emisisons problem. I had the work done 12/02. the next day, all the emissions lites went on and the car sputtered. I went back and was told that it was just a sensorthat needed replacement that was setting off the dash lite. I then had the 40,000 mile tuneup to the tune of $550 on the next day (12-02) On June of 03, my car began to sputter and I was unable to drive in the auto mode so I switched to the 3rd gear. Going any higher, and the car died. So I stayed in 3 gear, but the car died at every red lite or stop lite or slow down. The next day (Sat) I get the car to the dealer. Now the emission warning lite is once again on and flashing. The dealer did not have their master mechanic on duty so I had to leave the car. I told the manager that this is the second time that the emissions lite is causing trouble. He stated that he charges $124 to find out. I leave the car. On Monday I am told that the Fuel Pump needed to be replaced. I asked them why they did not see this on the 40,000 mile maintence. Well, he said everything checked out. I demand that this problem is a contiual problem related to the emission recall. He states no way, and he stated that my emission warranty was outdated. Actually, the emission waranty is good for 8 years or 100000 miles. He tells me that the fuel tank is covered but not the fuel pump. Now with 49,000 miles, I have a $610 bill. Do I have a lemon or do I have a bad mechanic. Help! Anything I can do to get them to pay for it? ppassat@juno.com
I have a 1999 Volkswagen Passat (44K miles) and have experienced these 2 electrical(?) problems. First, both my tail lights stopped working (I checked/replaced the bulbs). They come on when I brake but not when the lights are on. All other rear lights work. Second, my AM radio stopped working. FM, cassette, & CD are still working fine.
Comments
Second, they charged you $350 for sparkplugs and an oil change? Time to find another shop! For the add'l $150, I might have gone for the injector cleaning (in for a penny, in for a £). Or am I not reading this correctly?
A little more detail about your car would be helpful. Are you the original owner? How frequently has the oil been changed in the past? This is the 2.8 V-6, right? If so, it has a track record for consuming oil, but a quart every 3,000 miles is not all that bad, in the grand scheme of things (there's people dumping in a quart every 1,000 miles). What viscosity of Mobil 1 are you using?
Once you give us a little more info, perhaps others here can help you. Personally, I'd look at either having the car checked over by another dealership (some are better than others) or search around for a VW specialty independent shop for further help. I'd also buy a couple of bottles of Techron and run those through the fuel system and see if that doesn't help.
I had my 2k1 GLX in for its 40k tuneup. I started getting the emissions workshop message and the car started stuttering. Turned out that the dealer put in a broken sparkplug.
Most recently, this week, the message came up again. I took it to a VW mechanic (I've given up on the dealer) and the 'puter said that the secondary emissions valve faulted. He checked it and said it was fine. He reset the 'puter and told us if it happens again to let him know. It's happened again....
Has anyone had a similiar problem and what was the cause?
In your owner's manual, in the Maintenance section, it will tell you every 2 years.
Also have had grinding noise from wheels, dealer says both front wheel bearings are going. $500+. Seems a little early in the car's life cycle. I've owned Toyota's, Honda's well into 100k miles, never needed to replace wheel bearings.
These expensive problems conveniently start after the short 2 yr warranty expires.
Is it me, or are these failures a little much for a vehicle pampered to 53K miles?
Now that I have had it for almost a week I have noticed that when I start from a dead stop gently pressing on the accelerator, trying to start smoothly without gunning it, it starts off sluggish until I press hard and seems a little jerky. After I get going it seems fine.
I have skimmed/read all the previous posts and get the impression that this is just how it is. Something about fly by wire or something. Is this true or does it sound like I should take her in for a look?
Thanks
Paul
Drive by wire means there's no throttle body. A sensor at the gas pedal and other sensors will dictate how the engine performs at that instant.
The "throttle position sensor" is a sensor is at the pedal which determines the simulated throttle position.
Any thoughts?
Thanks for help in advance
NateP