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2000-2011 Chevrolet Malibu

19091929395

Comments

  • My friend I would get a second opinion. Why would you need a transmission flush with only 48K miles? I have 93k miles on my 2006 Malibu and have never had ANY of those things done to it. And the car runs great.

    Is your car running bad or something? I'll take it to someone else before I shell out that kind of cash.

    That's just my opinion though.
    Cedric
  • sean74sean74 Posts: 18
    I just changed rear brake pads of my 2005 Malibu. As of today I have changed rear pads twice. One at 22k, and toady at 48k. I was very upset.

    I bought it in August 2005. In November 2007, I changed rear pads because one of a pair completely worn out while others looked like new. Chevy dealer didn’t explain what was wrong. I strongly suspected that something was wrong. Today, they told me that it needs change again because they are almost worn out. For safety reason I changed them. But they still did not give me a satisfying explanation. They just told me it is normal.

    Thank you very much for your advice on this matter.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    At least it does not seem to be sticking when you apply brakes, but it could impact braking performance when you need it most.
    There is definitely something wrong and it sounds like you have a sticking caliper. One pad of a pair would indicate such and it will likely be the one opposite the piston. Post back if you know otherwise.
    That constant drag will hurt MPG and likely damage the rotor, depending upon how severe it is dragging and generating heat. If it is quite bad, at night you should be able to detect a reddish glow on the rotor. If it is that bad, you could be damaging other parts in that area such as a wheel bearing.
  • I need to know where the drain plug is on the radiator and upon which hose I need to connect the flush system.
    L Krotzer
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    I would look on the driver side down low and on the side toward engine.
  • What brand and model Scan Tool did you use to clear the PASSLOCK DTCs? I did the resistor bypass on my 2003, 3.1L Malibu. The Theft System light is constantly lit and the car starts every time, even after disconnecting the battery.
  • awil28awil28 Posts: 13
    Hey everyone i could really use some help ive been trying to fix my sisters car and im stumped. we bought the car with a 3.4l in it from a chevy venture, it had overheating problems and suspected head gasket failure w/ no oil coolant mix. I have replace the following; head gaskets, head bolts, heads were resurfaced and a shim was added with head gaskets, upper and lower intake gaskets, throttle body gaskets, injector o-rings, spark plugs, plug wires, oil change and filter, thermostat, cooling system flush, power steering pump, air filter, fuel filter, and fuel pump along with some other things like tires and rotors and brakes but those wouldnt cause the problems. after all that work was done and the car was reassembled it will just crank all day but wont start, there is no fuel pressure but there is spark and proper compression. the relay under the hood clicks but neither the old pump or the new one makes any noise and the there is no power at the connection. i was looking around and came across all of the complaints about the passcode theft system and it deactivating the pump and injectors. my theft light is on and it stays on and does not blink. i have tried the ten minute reset thing and i tried the resistor bypass thing, and the car still only cranks and will not start. anybody have any help at all they can offer ill answer any other questions you might have. thank you for any help,
    p.s im not 100% sure i did the bypass correctly im a little foggy on adding the values of the resistors up.
  • gonogogonogo Posts: 879
    The injectors have power all the time on run, the security system cuts ground in the PCM after it starts, like will run for 2 seconds.

    With pump relay removed there should be at least one 12 volt feed to one of the 4 relay contacts with key on run. If not check fuel pump fuse for 12 volts in and out.

    I like to use a 12 volt test light for this, cheap to buy.
  • ahoser13ahoser13 Posts: 6
    We just bought my wife a brand new 2011 1LT Malibu. I can't stand the headrests on the front seats constantly touching the back of my head. Why do the headrests come forward so far ? I can't get seat adjusted in such a way that this doesn't occur. Any suggestions ? Thanks, AWB
  • dispencer2dispencer2 Posts: 299
    The internet (but not car magazines) is full of spy photos of the "2012" Malibu but nothing on "cars to come" articles. If this car is supposed to come out in the summer of 2011 then they should be building them but you can still order 2011 models. Does anybody know what the deal is with this redesigned Malibu on a shorter wheelbase? I definately won't consider it. A shorter wheelbase may impact the ride and the 2011 rides fine. I'm about to order a 2011 LT2 later this month.
  • dispencer2dispencer2 Posts: 299
    My Cobalt is the same way but I just recline my seat a bit and it is OK. You can also buy a soft seat pad which helps as well. They sell them at Auto Zone.
  • dispencer2dispencer2 Posts: 299
    It found out that it comes out on the 18th of April - launched at the Shanghai Auto Show and then a few days later at the NY one. I don't have any idea when you can't order 2011 models anymore. Does anyone know the cutoff date because I need to order one. I'll check with the local dealer next week.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,077
    A reporter is looking to interview anyone with a GM vehicle that doesn't seem to accurately read fuel levels.
    Please email [email protected] Friday, April 29, 2011 to share your story.
    Thanks,
    Jeannine

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  • dispencer2dispencer2 Posts: 299
    Just bought a 2011 LT1 with the Red tintcoat Premium Package and Interface Package/Mat Package off the lot. Unable to order a red tintcoat LT2 because the pigment comes from Japan and is unavailable. $4,000 discount. $2,000 rebate, $1,000 from being an AARP member, $1,000 military discount. $22K and change out the door. I decided on the 2011 without waiting for the 2013 that comes out in the spring of next year. For one thing the new one will be more expensive and secondly I am concerned about the 5" shorter wheelbase. I'm primarily interested in ride and the 2011 rides ok. I rented them several times. I also have no interest in a touch screen like my wife"s Traverse - that "MyChoice" or whatever Ford and Chevy will call them. I could have had a red LT2 shipped in from Albuquerque but it had a sunroof and the ceiling is too low on the Malibu with a sunroof. It brushes my head even with the seat all the way down (and I'm 5'10"). Anyway the LT1 is fine with the LT2 wheels and other options it had on it except for the silly mat package. I always put in rubber mats. Unfortunately GM was too cheap to include a trunk net so I'll have to order one.
  • ahoser13ahoser13 Posts: 6
    Since you are the same height as me I was wondering if the headrests bother you like they bother me ? I have a bad back & I need to keep the seat back up straight for lower back support & this causes my head to constantly bump against the headrest. Fortunately we bought this car for my wife and I do not ride in it very often. But every time I do the headrests really bother me. AWB
  • dispencer2dispencer2 Posts: 299
    edited May 2011
    Luckily My knee is bad - back is fine. I always tilt the seat slightly back and the headrest isn't an issue. The lumbar support works fine with the seat slightly tilted. The headrest is worse on my 2009 Cobalt but I've gotten used to it. It probably is safer than the old headrests.
  • dispencer2dispencer2 Posts: 299
    Make sure that the key is not the problem. I had a 2001 Malibu and the ignition switch didn't recognize the key -I needed a new ignition switch as I recall. The car would crank but wouldn't start. Check with the dealer. There was some sort of test -As I recall it was 1. Try and start. 2. Turn off ignition and leave key in and wait 15 minutes then 3. try and start it. This may be wrong. This was two cars ago and I can't remember what I ate two days ago so check with the dealer. There IS a problem with the ignition that reads the key that will cause it to crank but not to start. Quit replacing stuff and check with the dealer.
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,252
    dispencer2,
    Welcome to the GM family. If you have any questions comments or concerns please feel free to contact me directly! Have a great weekend!!
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • yanks5yanks5 Posts: 1
    edited June 2011
    I have about 1300 miles on my new 2011 Malibu, The trannsmission was hesitating. I brought to dealer. I was told the tranny is now 6 speed . the Cruze and the Traverse have the same new tranny. They told me the hesitation is the gears changing. I accepted the answer but realized its more than that. The massive hestations starts at 20 to 40 mph. It hesitates (feels like car is being held back) 3 times until it hits 40 mph. Bringing back to dealer. Is anyone else have this pblm or heard of this pblm? The strange twist is that it doesn't happen every time
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 712
    Hi Yanks5:

    I have a LTZ 4 cylinder with a "surging problem" that is presently at the dealer for this problem. (See my postings on the "2008-2009 Chevrolet Malibu board!) ----- Take it back to the dealer ASAP! -------- Best regards. ------ Dwayne :lemon: :shades: ;)
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,252
    yanks5,

    Please keep us posted on any information from the dealership.

    Thank you and have a great weekend!
    Caron, GM Customer Service
  • mrscurvemrscurve Posts: 2
    My husband and I bought a new Malibu and has been nothing but problems. After having the car 2 months the brakes started squeaking. Not typical for a brand new car so we took it back to the dealership. They said they fixed the problem. I then was going to a dr appointment when the car wouldn't shift. I would run the engine up then had to release the gas for the car to slam into the next gear. Took it back to the GM dealership only to have them tell me that there was nothing wrong. Brakes started acting up again, took it back, once again was told they fixed it. Transmission still acting up a month later but now brakes again too so I took it back to the dealership on to be told nothing wrong with transmission and brakes were fixed but technician said it was MY driving that the brakes were giving out so often so he told me how to "properly" brake. ARE YOU KIDDING ME. Took it to a Midas to have oil changed and the technician came out and said, did you know you have a transmission leak? I called my husband right away and put in a complaint with the GM dealer, they advised me to take it to another dealer. Took it to the next dealer where they finally found the problem with the transmission and fixed it. Back to the brakes..........Husband is now on his way to another state when the brakes gave out and he ended up running a red light. He had it taken to a Midas where they replaced the brakes and said the calipher was hanging up. They fixed it at an expense of $250.00 plus labor. So I went back to the initial dealership and complained that it wasn't "my driivng" it was the crappy brakes they were using and requested a refund for the $250.00 that I had to pay Midas to fix it. I to this day over a year later have the same brakes. So it's not MY driving it was the brakes they were installing on the car.
    Now onto my current issues. Last month I started the car on only to have it beep at me and on the message read it said "power steering" So I shut off the car and turned it back on. It went away. This month did the same thing to my husband only he lost power steering going down the highway. Not fun. He shut the car off and turned it back on. It worked again. So it did it to him 2 days ago so I filed a complaint......again....with GM. They said it would be covered under warranty to have it repaired. But until we can get it serviced we have to drive the car seeming as it's our only one and my husband is military so he can't just "call off" So this morning on the way to another base, its pouring down rain and our windshield wipers quit working. I can hear the motor for them running but the wipers are not going.
    But I would like to know what the problem could be with the windshield wipers and if I could fix it before taking it to the dealership and having to pay for labor?
    I have always driven GM vehicles and am really disappointed with this car and the service that I have been getting!
  • dispencer2dispencer2 Posts: 299
    Thanks - My first Chevy was a new 1956 and we presently have 4 -the Malibu, an 09 Cobalt coupe, an 09 Traverse and a '97 truck. Karl Spence
  • gmcustsvcgmcustsvc Posts: 4,252
    mrscurve,
    I apologize for your experience. Can you please email me your complete contact information including a good number to reach you, VIN, current mileage, and involved dealer? I look forward to your response.
    Christina
    GM Customer Service
  • sdasda Indian Land, SCPosts: 2,923
    While one of our cars was in the body shop to be repaired from being backed into, I was given a 2010 Malibu to drive. It was rode hard and put up wet. Interior filthy, 40000 miles. But it drove great! Quiet, not rattles or squeaks, decent power, great ac and good mpg. Got 25-33 mpg. I drove it about 600 miles total. It impressed me so much that I started looking at certified and new inventory to buy. My wife got her car back and returned my HHR to me. Once I got the HHR 2LT back I realized how much I still like that simple little car. None the less, I am impressed with the current Malibu and hope the next version is even better.

    2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech, 2013 Honda Accord EX, 2006 Acura TL w/nav

  • mrscurvemrscurve Posts: 2
    edited July 2011
    I'm so glad to hear you had a great experience with the Malibu. I loved that car when I first got ours. Until I started to experience ALOT of problems. I just got the car back from being fixed 2 weeks ago and now its my catalytic converter. I no longer have a folder, I have a book of receipts of it being fixed. Even though GM does fix the problems, it costs me work time, gas, borrowing cars off of friends. It is completely ridiculous and all I ever get from GM is a "Sorry for your inconvenience." This car has been an inconvenience since we've had it for 3 months. To date: Power Steering, Transmission, Catalytic Converter, Power Window, Electric Seat, Windshield wiper, and caliphers. I have had this car a little over 3 years and it's been in the shop 10 months out of that. Oh and the last time it went to the dealership they lost my car for a day(It was in their parking lot)!! But "oh hahaha, sorry we need to keep it another day, we found it." Never offered me a rental or anything but I know if I did want a rental I could ask for it. but if I wanted it, I would have to find a ride to go get it!!
  • Last April my battery was dead twice within two weeks so I took the car to my dealer and they found nothing wrong except the battery was a bit low. It happened again yesterday as I was about to leave home for an oil change at my dealer. As it is still under warranty all three times GM paid for the tow truck to jump my battery. Again this time they did not find any problems. The service sign-in tech thought it was because I do not drive very many miles (My average is 5-11 miles per day for 2011) and I should just take the car for a longer drive every week or so as all the new technology was draining my battery--you just know what I thought of that idea. Since it had never happened on my other cars and it had not occurred on this car for the year and a half or so since I bought this Malibu it seems something is wrong with the car. They did not say anything about checking with a GM super techy, but it seems I can't be the only one with this problem.

    It would seem to me that if the battery gets low that the alternator would increase the amount it is charging my battery, but got no real answer on the question. I spoke with the manager and he offered to do some checking by keeping the car for a couple of days and he could check something. I do not have two cars and he would/could not provide a loaner. I asked him to ask his GM contact which he said he will do.

    In any case, I'm not optimistic they will find anything if I leave it with the dealer for a couple of days. Do any of you have any advice as to what I can/should do now? Thanks in advance.

    Uncle Dewey
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 712
    Have the dealer perform a "load test" on the battery, an output test on the alternator, and a starter draw test on the starter! ------ QUESTION: ----- Is anything electrical being left "on" when the engine is not running? ----- This is NOT normal! ----- I own two vehicles, (a 2007 XLE Camry, and a 2010 Malibu). At times, one of these vehicles can sit in the driveway for weeks without being started without a battery problem! ----- If it is not a defective battery, something is drawing down the battery when the engine is NOT RUNNING! ------Best regards! ------ Dwayne :shades: :confuse: ;) :)
  • I agree with Dwayne --- Something is draining the battery. I've heard of the fan switch going bad on a GM product and when the vehicle was turned off the fan for the heater/AC continued to draw current from the battery. If battery tests OK on the "load test" & alternator is charging properly I would look for something that is "ON" when thought to be off. Also, the obvious, the battery itself could be bad. Sometimes even brand new batteries are bad. Cells can "short-out" or be improperly assembled or damaged in transit. Good Luck, AWB
  • Thanks for your input. Since the dealer did the test the battery and alternator both ought to be okay. He did show me some battery test results. I will be leaving it with them for several days and they will be monitoring drain on the battery. Of course, if it is a drain problem, but intermittent, I'm could be in for a long haul. I can't think of anything that I would/could have left on to drain the battery. When the key is removed theoretically every thing is off except some of what the computer controls such as time, etc.

    Also, the tow truck driver used a power pack to start the car, but it too did not start the car. We had to hook up the jumpers to the truck battery which did work. Yesterday I also put a volt meter on the battery and watched what occurred when starting the car and when/if it fails again I can put the meter on again just to be sure it really is a low voltage. The voltage dropped from 12+ volts to 10+ volts and then back up to at least 15 volts--my meter only goes to 15 volts. Wonder if I should try to leave the meter connected all the time and leave it visible on my dashboard?

    Alas, Uncle Dewey
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 712
    Just maybe it is NOT a battery problem. ---- I could be a starter problem or a starter circuit problem! ----- When the engine would not start, did you put a volt meter on the battery? ------ Dwayne :confuse:
  • I, too, had thought it might not really be the battery. For now it is at the dealer and I'm not optimistic he'll find anything. Before I dropped it off I had a voltmeter on the battery and recorded the standing still voltage and noted how low it dropped when starting. If they find nothing my intention is to connect the voltmeter and have it sitting on my dashboard waiting for the next failure. Any other ideas would be welcome.

    Uncle Dewey
  • djm2djm2 Posts: 712
    QUESTIONS:

    1.) How does the engine act when it does not start?

    2.) Does it "turn over slowly?"

    3.) Does it "turn over at the normal cranking speed, --- but fail to fire?"

    4.) Does the starter "just click" when you turn the key?

    5.) Does the starter fail to engage into the flywheel?

    It is VERY possible that there is a "dead spot" in the starter that causes a no crank condition. When you jump the car, there is enough voltage to move the starter armature slightly and the starter spins.

    A loose connection of the battery cables at the starter and ground could also cause this type of condition.

    Have the dealer remove the starter and check the starter drive and the armature / commutator.

    When the engine fails to start next time, DO NOT JUMP THE CAR! ---- Have it towed to the dealer, so they see the problem. (If this is a new car there should be no charge for the tow. The same is true if you belong the AAA.)

    Best regards. ----- Dwayne
  • We just bought a 2011 Malibu LT1 summit white all around with ebony interior. This car comes with LT2 options and ALL I CAN SAY IS A BIG WOW!!!!!!!! THE STICKER WAS 26500$ AND IT'S A DEALER DEMO ONLY AT 2500 MILES AND THE FINAL PRICE IS $19000+ TAX.. WE LOVE EVERY MINUTE OF IT AND IT FEELS EXPENSIVE DRIVING IT AND LOOKS GREAT. THE ONLY 2 THINGS WE DON'T LIKE ARE: THE GLOVE BOX IS TOO SMALL AND THE BACK DOME LIGHTS CAN'T TURN ON INDEPENDENTLY BY BACK SEAT FOLKS!!!! WE DROVE AN IMPALA LT AND IT'S NOT AS GOOD AS THIS CAR. A BUICK REGAL IS VERY NICE AND EVEN TO THIS CAR BUT IT'S MORE MONEY...GREAT JOB GM...SAIGON PAUL FROM ROCHESTER NY...
  • malexbumalexbu Posts: 169
    interesting... may your new car serve you well!.. can you please elaborate on the impala lt vs your malibu lt1 differences? i still can't make my mind on which model would be a better buy, should i get one in a year or so... thanks.
  • I had an 06 Impala LT2 (same as the new one) for 2 years and got rid of it after an 8 hour drive to Denver. The bottom of the seat isn't wide enough. There was no support for my thighs and the last 2 hours was agony. My back also hurt. I don't have the same problem with my 2011 Malibu LT1. I can drive the car for hours and get out of it upright without a stiff back. I don't know what the difference is but the Malibu seat is much better.

    The car magazines have panned the Impala since 06 when the current model came out. It is supposed to be totally redesigned in 2014. I wouldn't even consider the 2011 or 2012. As for the Malibu I bought a 2011 knowing that the 2013 was going to be changed. I don't want a Regal suspension and I don't like the much shorter wheelbase. The present model rides nicely. I'm not gambling with the 2013.
  • malexbumalexbu Posts: 169
    Thanks; I have 2005 and 2006 Malibus and consider their seats very, very comfortable. Sat in 2008+ Malibus several times, while at a dealer, and found their seats very comfortable as well. OTOH, as many times I sat in Impalas, of this and the previous generation, I did find their sits amazingly uncomfortable -- could find no position that was good for me. Actually, in 2005 I came to a dealer with the intent to "probably buy" an Impala to replace my 1999 Bonneville. Malibu was not even on the radar (what a ridiculous toy car, I had been thinking...)

    After sitting in several Impalas on the lot, and then hopping into a Malibu, I knew what I wanted. I bought one on the spot, leaving Bonnie right there and driving out in my first Bu. Two more Bu's since then :-)

    I am now beginning to think about replacing one of my Bu's with something else, and have had a mental struggle between the current Malibu and Impala. Both are discounted well enough now (a plus) and both seem to have uncomfortably too many problems (a minus). I dread buying a PITA, and from various owners' posts see that both cars (and Cruze) can compete with any other in that sad regard.

    Well, at least Malibu has comfortable seats... I will eliminate Impala from the candidate list -- thank you very much!
  • malexbumalexbu Posts: 169
    What makes the Regal suspension special, in your mind? Too stiff? (I have no clue.)
  • The reviews of the Regal stress the "sport" suspension. The wheelbase (which usually impacts the ride) is much shorter on the Regal. I have had a long collection of full size Cadillacs but thought I'd try a smaller car at least until the new Cadillac XTS comes out. The Malibu rides very well. It isn't as insulated as a Cadillac and doesn't feel as substantial but it rides well and that is what I want more than anything else. I've driven Mercedes and a number of Toyotas and felt that the ride was stiff. The Malibu is fine.

    The LaCrosse also has a good ride but visibility leaves something to be desired.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,077
    A reporter is looking to interview someone who lives in California and who bought a Chevy car (not truck) in the past year. Please email [email protected] by Monday, October 17, 2011 if you care to share your story. Please include your phone number, the make/model you drove before and the type of Chevy you bought.

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  • hey chevyguy657 just wondering if you got an answer to this problem as i have the same problem and have found no answers
  • hey chevyguy657 just wondering if you got an answer to this problem as i have the same problem and have found no answers
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,077
    Since the post you responded to is nearly 7 years old, you might have better luck posting details about your problem to see if any recent owners have ideas for you.

    MODERATOR

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  • I own a 2010 Honda Crosstour with 37k miles. I want to trade it in and buy a conventional 4WD vehicle (Jeep/FJ). Should I wait until 2012 when the car will be "2" years old or will I be better off trading it in between now and the new year?
  • uncledewey1uncledewey1 Posts: 25
    edited January 2012
    My 2008 Malibu needs only natural oil but last time ,by error, the dealer used synthetic oil. I put around 4,000 miles a year and GM wanted the oil to be changed at least once a year so I complied to preserve my warranty. What do you suggest is a reasonable amount of time or miles before I need to change oil?

    Thanks for any advice you can give me. Dewey
  • uncledewey1uncledewey1 Posts: 25
    edited January 2012
    The part of the fender/grill and below the fog lights has significant scratches due to high curbs when vertical parking and hitting a steep driveway entrance. Am I the only one that has that problems. Body shops want a fortune to repair as they remove all of the fender/grill assembly.

    Any hints on how to prevent and how to repair. My other GM cars had a black synthetic material in that area.

    Thanks, Dewey
  • paopao Posts: 1,867
    doesnt the malibu have the GMOL....GM Oil Life Monitor?..I have one in my 04 Malibu....Ive been running synthetic in it since 30K and it now has 197K on it...I change it out every 5K, but have let it go as far at 7500 before changing it...running Mobil 1
  • Dewey, Even the BEST synthetic oil co.'s recommend the oil be changed at least once a year or 25,000 miles. ( Whichever comes 1st. ) Since you don't put very many miles on your car maybe you should use a synthetic blend motor oil to save money or use a high quality petroleum oil & change it twice a year. AWB
  • I was hoping someone else would respond. Try looking under the grill/fog lights and you might be surprised for 2008 Malibu and newer.

    Tx, Dewey
  • My 2008 Malibu is low on radiator coolant. The owner manual states I need to use "Del-Cool". Is this true and if not what would anyone recommend?

    Thanks, Uncle Dewey
This discussion has been closed.