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At least that is what I hear from the BMW specialist at Tirerack..
regards,
kyfdx
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The 18s on my 03 were impossible to replace a few years back. I paid major bucks at a dealership to get one tire as everybody was out of that specific tire. Two years later I can find my replacement tires for 1/3rd the cost at tirerack and get them delivered and mounted within 2 days.
Don't sweat it. By the time you'll need tires they're be plentiful and far cheaper.
Thanks for the posted reply! Mine seams to have 'fixed it-self'. I haven't noticed a problem for awhile now. I did get a quote from BMW of Bellevue $1400.00!!! They told me the entire cassette needed to be replaced. I told them I would just leave the roof shut...but seams to be working fine now. Thanks again! :shades:
No left or right. Just which direction they need to rotate. I believe the color lines have to do with wear, but I can't remember now.
"Other than aesthetics is there any reason not to run a mis-matched set of tires (fronts vs. rears) since the fronts still have several thousand miles worth of life left in them? "
I would recommend against using mis-matched tires. Odds are they'll try to fight each other. I had a friend who did that with his Boxster. He had them all the same real quick.
MSRP $43,620
Invoice $40,220 per dealer ($39,990 per edmunds)
Dealer incentive $3800 through the end of the month
The true invoice I should negotiate from should be $36,420 correct?
I live in the Chicago area and the best price I got over the phone from several dealers was $37,820. I said I wanted to come in and negotiate the price some more, but he said that was the lowest they could do. After calling 7 dealers there were only 4 cars in the area with the equipment I wanted. What do you think a good price should be considering the 2006 coupes will be coming in a few weeks? Does anyone know if the $3800 incentive will continue into October or maybe even go up?
Thanks
Those lines are so it's easy to see if a stack of tires are all the same - prevents mixups in shipment. They are put on during the manufacturing process.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
Shoot Doug, you're making me feel bad with that comment.
I went down to Bondurant a few years ago for a four day school and blew out a tire coming around a corner.
I still have a piece of the tire as a momento of how hard I was driving the car!
Been really busy.... I need to change my forum id though. I wonder if 99Mcoupe is taken.... :confuse:
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
Need to replace the rear tires soon though. They are almost to wear bar.
Which Kumhos you installed in your zhp, the ECSTA Supra 712 (lowest priced at Tire Rack) or the ASX ? How much driving quality you gave up compared with your previous ones? How about noise? I was just about to replace'em with Michelins PS2 but I am rethinking due to the wallet syndrome.
thanks
Dave
The other thing I've heard is to shut off the a/c and let the fan blow for a few minutes prior to shutting off the car (i.e., so just shut off the a/c a few miles before you reach your destination).
will follow up
Dave
2) Some BMW Centers have loaners, some do not. Every center's loaner policy is different. Most centers that have loaners do so only if the service will take more than a couple hours. I'm not sure how long the Inspection II takes...
3) Subsequent service appts alternate between I and II.
The first time you go in (around 15K miles) is an oil service..
The second time you go.. (around 30K miles) is Inspection I (1) (one)..
Inspection II (2) (two) is the one that occurs around 60K miles..
regards,
kyfdx
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1- oil change
2- microfilter change
3- air filter change
4- inspection of various components of the car
Outside of #1-3, there isn't much in the way of hardware/fluids that gets changed.
The coolant flush is once every 4 years and brake fluid flush once every 2 years, but not included on any "Inspections".
If it's a manual tranny, then tranny fluid and fuel filter should be changed before 100K miles.
It is included in the free maint. program, though. My dealership didn't realize this (me either), and they charged me for it. About a week later, I got a check in the mail from them refunding the amount with an apology from the service manager.
You're on the money. Indeed, the SA confirmed me today that the first appointment (circa 15K) was the oil change (my wife took it since I was out of town, that's why I didn't knew). Ergo, the second one (this one) becomes Inspection I (1). My clock is little over 25K.
What bother's me a bit according to your response is that Inspection II @60K would not be covered by the 4YR/50K free maintenance. Is that the case?
Depending on how much you drive.. and whether you plan to keep on doing your maintenance at the dealer... You might consider buying the extended maintenance plan.. Takes you out to 6yr/100K for around $1000.... If you think you'll hit 75K before the six years, it will pretty much pay for itself..
regards,
kyfdx
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Extended Warranty from 4Y/50K to 6Y/100K is @ $2,800 (for non-M3).
For Maintenance Extension, the car must be under active coverage (no lapse).
For Warranty Extension, the car must be under active coverage and you must be the original owner. Vehicle inspection is not required and the policy is transferable for a $50 fee.
Generally speaking, BMW rotors aren't machined or resurfaced.... They just do new ones.
Of course, when you have the nice BMW free maintenance, you realize it's pretty sweet getting all the pads and rotors replaced!
Does it matter wether I get 17s or 16s? A local tire dealer in town says that the bigger the sidewall, the better it is in deep snow? Tirerack has a similar explanation on the website. It makes some sense to me but I am not entirely convinced? Any real life experiences from members? Also, will the speedometer show the right speed with the 16s?
Thanks!
Unless you know for a fact that the wheels they are recommending will fit, I'd stick with the 17" and the 205/50-17...
regards,
kyfdx
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I torqued each bolt to 83 lbs/ft.
Now the question - should I re-torque the bolts again after a day, a week, or so many miles? I never did with lug nuts and was wondering if these are any different.
I haven't been around wheel bolts since my Dad had his '59 Buick.
2020 Ascent Limited, 2024 Subaru Legacy Sport
I always retorque my wheel lugs after a few hundred miles, and have almost always found at least one lug per wheel that was significantly less tight than my target torque. Said another way, "Yup, re-torque 'em!" ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
It was sort of funny. I installed the back two, took the car slowly out of my driveway and for a very short, slow drive. The whole time I was listening for any unusual sounds, wobbling, or signs the wheels were about to fall off.
Did the same thing after installing the front two, but that trip was totally uneventful also.
I expect I can change them back in the spring in way less than an hour now that I have a routine.
I found a screw in the left rear Conti today after detecting a loss of air pressure so I decided to put the Michelin X-Ices on today. It gives me a good reference point since it is November 1st anyway.
I'll see tomorrow if the tire can be fixed. It's in the tread, but it's right at the outside edge. If it can't be fixed safely, maybe I'll have them use the spare and use the repaired one as a spare. Maybe not.
Decisions decisions.
Thanks again
2020 Ascent Limited, 2024 Subaru Legacy Sport