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The only lighting issue I've personally witnessed happening on older 3 series, more frequently than I would normally see, is the front directional lenses popping out and dangling off the bumper!
They are simple push-ins and I guess the little clamps get weak or something.
My friend owns the car now... Maybe, there will be a class-action suit, and we'll all get rich!
I'll have to drop over to his house and see if it is still a problem... He always has a great bottle of wine open...
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Well I'll be darned. There IS a TSB on rear tail lights:
SI B 63 03 06
Lights
February 2007
Technical Service
This Service Information bulletin supersedes S.I. B63 03 06 dated January 2007.
[NEW] designates changes to this revision
SUBJECT
Poor Connection at Rear Lamp Connector
MODEL
E46 (3 Series) sedan from 9/01 to 3/05 production
SITUATION
Some customers may complain that one of the rear lights is inoperative.
CAUSE
Minor corrosion at the 8-pin rear lamp connector creates high resistance causing damage to the connector housing.
CORRECTION
Repair the damaged wire(s) and replace damaged connector housing. Install additional ground wires to both left and right rear lamps.
------------------
Does anyone here have tips on how to successfully ask a dealer to
perform (minor) repairs specified in a TSB on a car is 7000 miles out of
warranty?
This is the TSB I need
http://www.bmwtis.com/tsb/bulletins/bulletin_graphic_temp/B630306g.htm
It is a fix for incorrect ground wiring used in the tail light of some
E46 sedans (production dates of 9/01 to 3/05)
The problem was reported as a dead bulb. After verifying all the bulbs
were fine, I discovered corrosion on the connector. Heat from the ground
wire had melted the connector and was causing a short with adjacent
wires, along with lots of little sparks!
Some guys have posted a DIY fix here:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=512469
I will do that this weekend if I am not able to get it fixed by the
dealer. I would prefer it if they fixed it though, so what can I do to
help my cause, other than asking nicely?
jmb
The E39s are notorious for indicating that tail lamp bulbs are bad. The cure is simple. Spray the bulb sockets with a good contact cleaner, use ONLY silver base bulbs(OEM or Sylvania/Osram), and coat the bulb terminals with a fine film of dielectric grease. I think it cost me @$300 per side... :P
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
With the exception of higher than normal oil consumption, suspension that's getting noticably softer, and a seatbelt that doesn't always want to retract, the car is solid and still a joy to drive.
If I can find/fix the oil consumption issue at a price that makes sense, I'll follow it up with the shocks and struts and keep it indefinitely... I'll probably just suck it up and deal with the seatbelt.
Thanks in advance!
In other words, if you happen to know about the TSB while you're under warranty , then you can get your BMW's design defect fixed for free.
If you're like us, however, you have problems under warranty and the stealers are clueless, replacing bulb after bulb, carrier after carrier--all of which only defer the problem until you're out of warranty!
Then the fun begins because the stealers then find out your wiring is melted and want several hundred dollars (per side) to make your tail lights work. Cute BMW!
Hence, the need for the recall.
Contact the NHTSA and fill out and MAIL a specific "petition for a formal investigation" (use those words) to this address:
U.S. Department of Transportation
National Highway Traffic Safety Administration
Office of Defects Investigation (NVS-210)
1200 New Jersey Avenue SE
Washington, DC 20590
It's not just he money--it's the principle of BMW knowing about a safety-related design defect, and choosing to not do a damn thing about it.
More details here:
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/recalls/recallprocess.cfm
************
TSB here:
http://www.bmwtis.com/tsb/bulletins/bulletin_graphic_temp/B630306g.htm
or:
www.bmwtis.com/tsb/bulletins/bulletin_graphic_temp/B630306g.htm
The ENTIRE rear cluster(s) INTERMITTENTLY go out on a on some E46 models. This is dangerous. Other symptoms include: turn signals go twice as fast (because the rear one is inop), brake light inop, tail light inop, check system warnings, etc.
This isn't about bulbs--those are wear items and we all expect them to burn out over time. This is about ground wiring that got so hot that the connector has melted (BMW dealership said it was "fused" together), and BMW's internal safety defect reporting. Here's the scoop: they are legally obligated to report safety defects. Instead, BMW dealers are and were seeing so many of these cars that they would simply change all the bulbs and out the door you went--with no paperwork or other documentation. Not a good idea when you're trying to track a problem . . . .
They initially thought it was bad bulbs, by the thousands. They were mislead because just moving the wires was enough to "fix" the problem for a few weeks or months and the wires were always moved when they replaced the bulbs.
Many of us we had these problems off an on every few months until we were out of warranty. Now BMW dealers are sticking their customers with bills upwards of $500 to accomplish the BMW Service Bulletin which came out over two years ago: replace the melted connectors, add the second ground wires, replaced the sockets and clusters, etc.
Here's the third version of this defect bulletin:
www.bmwtis.com/tsb/bulletins/bulletin_graphic_temp/B630306g.htm
If it doesn't work, just try to Google "SI B 63 03 06 pdf"
BMW's actions so far have been wrong, unsafe, illegal and unethical. BMW HQ in Germany has been advised of what's going on here in the states and we're hoping once the higher ups see the details they'll step up to their legal and ethical responsibilities.
There are many thousands of these cars out there. A very small fraction of the owners are reading these blogs; the others are probably just living with the problem thinking they have rear lights--when they actually don't. Heaven help BMW's execs if/when there's an accident for a safety defect they've been aware of for over two years now, and that they failed to fix via a recall. :lemon:
You may have someone's modified car if you have an E46 sedan?
Don't know about problems with LED tail lights on the coupe so you may want to search other boards to see if there's another TSB for that.
So the question to you friends out there is, should I sign for a 4 year 1800$ extended warranty or should I get myself a good indie shop and do the brake & water pump deal and come ahead while at it? Can I just wait for the water pump to fail without risking major engine damage? I don't know I feel at times that if it ain't broken don't fix it. :confuse: I am all ears.
Good luck!
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
Now.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Thanks!
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
If you're not, you need a new, and very expensive, transmission.
:lemon:
Warranty has expired , of course
Ditto to being worse overnight. I also have EML (elec malfuntion icon) .
Hope to get some info befo taking to Stealership.
do u hve EML lite?
Once in gear shifts smoothly. Wonder if is some computer that controls gear selection , independent of transmission body.
How check ATF fluid. Let me know what u find out and I will post any ifno I have.
Have to wonder if this is a probl common to the 04 3 series??
If the fluid was low, then you top it up, drive the car to determine that that solved the shifting issue and THEN find out where the fluid went.
if the fluid level is okay, then they have to run a diagnostic scan and see what, if any, trouble codes are present, and then proceed from there.
If the trouble codes demand disassembly of the transmission, you might be having a very bad day--but there could be access to used units or perhaps the fault code might indicate a problem that does not require complete overhaul.
Let us share diagnostic info with each other. Make sure our stealerships or Indies are on the same page.
Will, however check fluid level per our Host suggestion, first.
We still need to get diagnostic , of course.
Option A: 2000 328i, in the last year he's replaced the water pump, power steering pump, serpentine & acc. belt, intake elbow hose, fuel filter, gas cap, outside temp sensor, final stage resistor, brake rotors and pads, and oil change (about four months ago). Also comes with two sets of wheels: 16" BMW OEM wheels with Winterforce studded snow tires. And 18x8.5" Ronal wheels (made in Germany) with Potenza S03 Pole position summer tires. It's automatic (have to get an auto so the wifey can drive it) 98k miles and asking $7000
Option B: 2001 330xi, 126k miles, talked to him on the phone so can't be to detailed on the specidifics but he also has replaced both pumps, radiator, and a few other minor repairs. Planning on calling him back to get specifics but much like Option A seems to have kept the car maintained. Also an auto and wants $8850, can probably get him down to $8300.
Also have seen some 2002 325xi in the similar price range. So my questions to someone out there willing to be helpful for a newbie like me:
#1 I live in Salt Lake hence my looking at the AWD. But that said it I've been driving rear wheel my whole life in Utah and don't necessarily want to pass up a potential good deal (option A) as I think I'd be fine. (Plus on super snow/ice days, I have a land rover that would get me to work just fine) In my limited couple of weeks of research my gut tells me that first car has really been taken care of (seeing it today) and that the lower price tag is of course appealing letting me sock some away for maintenance that might/will occur.
#2 I could spend more like $11k on a car and get something a bit more recent (03-04) with perhaps around 75k miles, but then from what I can gather I'd be facing a lot of these repairs that the above cars have already taken care of. I'm not sure there's a lot of value for me to spend $3-$4k more and have to face things these have taken care of. Would love some input keeping in mind I don't put a lot of miles on cars (mighty 6 mile commute - usually only put on 6-7k a year) and just looking for a fun car to drive for the next few years, with the understanding coming into it that I need to be very proactive on the maintenance (have already been recommended a great indie mechanic by other BMW owners in the area).
Thank you so much in advance for taking a moment to post you comments. I really appreciate it!
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Like I said, I changed it at 100K in my wife's car with no ill effects. I forgot to mention that BMW also recommends a 100K change. Confused yet? Anyway, I strongly advise joining the BMW Car Club of America. Among other things, you get a great monthly magazine and many dealers and shops offer significant discounts on parts and/or labor.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Some times Consumer Reports actually does get it right. I am not convinced they know their new cars, being a major fan of the Ultimate Driving Machine, but they like my 2005, and I love it.
Happy twisties. And don't forget about your local chapter of the BMW CCA.
(anyone have suggestions how to do this?)
My car is at the dealer now and will have info on what they diagnose Wed nite.
Will post my info Wed nite:
Thanks again for your helpful input..
Not do when warm
Bmw dealership states is Cyclone Separator otherwise known as Crankcase ventillator.Gave me estimate $1285.
Local Indy Edge MOtorworks in Dublin Ca, Gives me $567.
So not tranny afterall. Did u get diagnosis??
I am thinking of getting the short shift kit sold by BMW Performance Parts. The shifter travel is supposed to be decreased by 25% or so using the kit. Anyone have any experience using a short throw shifter, please share them. How does this compare with the UUC shifter?
Thanks!
thanks!