On new E46 cars, it's nearly impossible to tell when you've got a flat tire - especially if the car is lightly loaded. You've really got to notice that it's already punctured before driving to stand any chance of saving the tire. Driving on a bad surface would help you to notice that it doesn't feel right but the E46 suspension (and E36 to a slightly lesser extent) makes it very have to tell when a tire's flat, especially if it's a back tire. A sport package would make it even harder. I was driving back from San Diego a few years ago when I stopped to get gas to notice that a rear wheel was nearly out of air and on the road. Had I not pulled off to get gas, the next stretch was the 405 Freeway and likely an episode similar to the one hippo described. I'd like to think that I'm especially sensitive to such a situation, but I had no idea that there was anything other than spec air pressure in all the tires as there was no appreciable difference in the way my car (328iS sport pkg) drove. Not that it makes the slightest difference, but the tires were Pilot MXXs and there was a screw which was the offender.
I picked up the "remains" of the tire. The whole part is still intact (no peel-offs or any signs of puncture). I still cannot imagine how it could have lost so much pressure - in less than 2 weeks, and 700 miles - to cause the blow up.
btw, I have a picture of the wheel, anyone know how I can upload a picture?
The dealership told me it was very likely that I was running on flat, which caused the blow up, they're not going to cover any warrantee... So, they asked me to purchase a new tire, but they'll split the difference.
If it was what really happened, like gurumike describe above, I think it is reasonable. But if there are other defects of the tire, then I don't think I should pay for it... The only problem is it is tough to tell what exactly had happened.
This weekend I did an greatparallel park in a very tight spot on my first attempt. I wonder if it was a farewell message from my medium-light steering? Keep you posted.
Isn't there supposed to be a Tire Pressure monitor built-in? I recall reading somewhere in the manual that it had a battery and wirelessly communicated with the main computer. Shouldn't that light up the tire pressure light if the tire is going flat?
I finally found the time to install my V-1 and concealed display unit the way I wanted it. There is not a single wire sticking out and you cannot see it from outside. It draws power from the car's electrical system and you turn it on/off with the ignition key, just like everything else in the car. The power is accessed from the roof panel and the wire goes underneath the roof panel, underneath the A pillar panel and into the concealed display unit right in front of me on the dash. The concealed unit is probably about 2 1/2 inches wide by 1 inch tall and it sits behind the wheel in front of the dash. It is slightly to the right of the trip computer - right where the gear selection is displayed for autos. Since I have a manual, it does not take away from any display in front of me. The concealed display is attached to the dash with strong double-sided scotch tape and it is incredible but that's the only tape I needed for the whole setup. The wires are really easy to run underneath the panels. I have seen on-line installation instructions recommending that the wire go underneath the dash but I found it much easier and neater to pinch it in the little space above the trim on the dash. I did not even need tape to attach it there - it's just so easy to work on the Bimmers!! The main unit above my head provides the sound (its lights are off) and the warning lights are only on the concealed unit. The setup looks completely integrated with the dash and because the suction cups are behind the blue windshield band (radar detector unit underneath), you cannot see it unless the car is standing still and you know it's there. I have definitely added 5-10 mph to my average speed but I exercise just as much caution as before. This car is way too easy to take up to low 100's... Well, one of my friends helped with the installation (I would not trust myself for that) and I offered him to take the car out for a long spin. Just about anyone that's driven the car goes something like this: excitement, stall, roll back, emergency brake, restart, stress out, 5K RPM's (those climb so fast!!), take off, burning clutch smell, 1 minute later a huge grin on their face and they feel like an expert driver. Yes, first gear is a little tricky for people that are not used to the car but once you get used to it, it's a dream - you just have to shift quickly and it feels creamy smooth. I just ordered a digital camera and I will try to post pictures of the V-1 setup as soon as I get it (assuming I can figure out how to use the camera )).
Could you please give me the status? I think it's in the sea and I'd like to track the progress. I ordered a July production black saphire/black leatherette 5 speed 325xi w/ cold pkg, xenon, power seats coming to VOB of Rockville, MD.
I assume many on this board belong to BMWCCA. I was just wondering what your experience is like with them. Specifically the Golden Gate Chapter, since I would most likely join them.
>>>> #8548 of 8563 choij2000---2002 pricing by davidlj3 Aug 20, 2001 (06:19 am) I am doing European delivery and I got a dealership to agree to 1600 over euro invoice. <<<
Hi David, which State do you live? I contacted few Southern CA dealers on ED discount with no luck. Do you mind sharing your dealer/salesman's name? Thanks.
dave330i - I'm a CCA member (since Jan '97). I'm in So. Cal. I'm waiting on my $500 Car Club rebate from BMW! - You have to have been a member for at least 12 uninterrupted months to get it.
hippo - If they're splitting the difference then you totally lucked out! That's one hell of a "good will" claim!! Now, if only we could rationalize a good will policy on door dings!
Blacksapphire - I will look when I get home. Too busy right now!
I had a "second opinion" from NTB (Nation Tire and Battery), and they told me pretty much the same thing - running flat and the tire broke off. However, NTB also contacted Continental for me and Conti was willing to give me a free replacement, as the tire was so new. It will arrive later this week...
I had a "second opinion" from NTB (Nation Tire and Battery), and they told me pretty much the same thing - running flat and the tire broke off. However, NTB also contacted Continental for me and Conti was willing to give me a free replacement, as the tire was so new. It will arrive later this week...
publish the location/number of the NTB store that was able to get you that. I'd like to try and do the same for my tire. Not keeping my hopes too high but it's worth a shot. I figure with the recent Firestone fiasco, tire manufacturers might be more willing to show goodwill effort to appease customers.
I'll have to say BMW is one hell of a car, it did an excellent job in keeping itself in control when the tire rolled off. There was a slight swerve to the left before I was able to regain control half a second later.
But I guess the Michellin commercial was right, the tires are "the only safety feature that actually touches the road"...
I've just come back from a week in Key Largo. Way too many posts about Zaino. I hope I didn't start this.
I started off my work week with a tire explosion. Left the house to drive my son to camp. Once there noticed the tire was very low. I had felt absolutely nothing on the five mile drive there although I had not even played the radio. It is extremely difficult to detect a flat on these cars. (Of course, my sidewall was damaged and the tire exploded when air was added.) I'm really thinking about purchasing a tire pressure monitor.
V1: I've been using the concealed display for several weeks and there is one disadvantage: it does not adjust effectively for glare which is a much greater problem with a dash mount. On the whole I prefer the location. The mute button is easier to reach and you don't have to look up to view the information, but the glare is a problem. As to use in urban areas, if you live where you can safely turn off x-band, you will get almost no false alarms.
My first post and my first BMW (530i which I will have in couple months)! I can't wait.
Just one concern. I heard that some of the BMWs are made in South Africa. My preference is that my German cars be made in Germany. In truth I don't want my car made in South Africa (same as I would want my Armani's made in Italy, not Hong Kong). I think there will be a quality differnce (as with clothing), particularly with the political turbulence in that region. Am I overly concerned? What is the real story? What are the chances my BMW will be produced there? Does anyone have exericence with BMW's made in South Africa?
One other concern (idle time gives birth to concerns). My production week is the first week when these people come back from Octoberfest (druken stuper). When I come back from vacation, I don't usually get back to speed until like 3-5 days or so. Could quality be a issue here?
I know these may be trivial issues to some of you, but it's my first BMW and these issues are important to me. Thanks.
hippo - thanks for the NTB number - I'll stop by this weekend to see if they can help me as well.
reuben - I am experiencing no problems with glare - my only concern is that the concealed unit might be too bright on the dash at night since it does not level. Oh, I drove without the concealed unit for the past 2-3 weeks and I got used to looking up every time the main unit went off. Now I'm still getting used to keeping my eyes on the dash, especially because the sound is still coming from the main unit above. I was wondering if you ran the wire along the A pillar and if you did, does it go behind the pillar (closer to the windshield) all the way down or you crossed it over to the inside of the pillar way up top. I'm not sure how the side air bag deploys and I certainly would not want anything in its way in case it does deploy. Other than that, it still amazes me that you can absolutely not see any wire in the car and I did not have to use tape at all to run an invisible wire from the roof to the dash. BTW, by "turning off x-band" you mean putting it in "L" mode, right?
Tires: I have written off GoodYears. I've had the Invictas and the Eagles in the past and they were so bad compared to the Dunlops that I replaced them with that I decided a tire manufacturer that makes tires like that will not get my money again. Michelins are good tires but probably overrated in this country and too expensive across the board for what they offer. I've never seen a bad product from Dunlop (definitely British BTW) and to me, they offer possibly the best combination between performance/quality/price overall. I have not had sufficient experience with the Contis to comment on their reliability yet but I am very happy with their performance and comfort. Again, any tire that is OEM on the 911 has to be good and I am inclined to think that some of the bad luck we've had with them is just coincidental.
Speaking of how difficult it is to keep the RPM's down, my friend took it right up to 6,200 RPM's yesterday. He got going, right, and I told him I typically keep the RPM's at or above 3,500. He kept telling me that this is too high and that his Chrysler van would probably blow up if you take it up to 5K. So he was being careful for a while and then we came to a point when he had to merge with traffic and he had to do it quickly. Next thing I know he's gunning it down the road at 6,200-6,300 RPM's and I'm ready to yell as I see the RPM's climbing. He told me he had no idea how high the RPM's had climbed. I told him I hope he doesn't do that with the van )
The '99 323i 4dr w/ SP that I'm looking into buying has the factory 16 inch wheels & 225/50/ZR16. I would like to upgrade these to the 2001 325i or even 330i 17 inch style wheels. Can anyone recommend your favorite models - both OEM and aftermarket? And recommendations for tires? I've looked at tirerack.com and they have a great selection, but perhaps too many to choose from and it's hard to visualize when you're just looking at a 2D computer monitor. I would just like to narrow down my options. Handline/Noise and Ride/Tread life are important to me in that order. The dealer says that he "highly recommends getting BMW factory spec wheels rather than aftermarkets" but didn't give a reason why. Is there anything wrong with the aftermarkets or is he just hoping that I can fork over more $$$? And does anyone have the website for prices on the BMW factory spec wheels? Thanks for any answers and input!
no problem. but where do you live? in the city? I think there are other NTB's that should be closer. Another one is in Waltham, also on I-95, exit 26... I bought some tires from them before, and they have good service.
shawn325i - Congrats! Well, the 1200 miles may not be all too difficult to bear if you end up finding excuses to drive...and taking the very long routes! Have fun!
Did anyone catch a couple of questions that I previously metioned:
1) Anyone know the updated list of recalled 3ers for the aux. fan switch....
2) Anyone sense on occasion that the clutch bears some pulsating resistance when disengaging it (when the pedal is pushed in), maybe from 3rd or 4th gear....just wondering
bmwrules,
I'm pretty sure that the 5 series are not manufactured in SA... only the 325is....
hippo - I don't mind going for an extra long drive with the Shtroumpf but I suspect Waltham will be a tad closer than Woburn. I live in the city and I take the Mass Pike to get to 128.
silver - I personally love the looks of the Star 44 BMW wheels. I'd get Dunlop SP8080's. There is no reason to go with BMW rims - it's just that they look good.
Sorry for the error in national origin - naturally, I knew they were originally British, but also knew that they had been recently sold. I thought it was to the Japanese, but in fact it is to Goodyear. So that makes them British in the same sense as Jaguar, Land Rover, Mini....
said nothing about keeping the rpms below 4500 during breakin, just vary the rpms.
It is impossible to keep them constantly below 4500. 1st gear is almost non existant at this low rpm level, 2nd not much better and in 3rd the rpms are between 3000 & 4000 in the 60-80 km range, which is usable on city streets. IS the 1000 rpm a good enough difference???
Is this suppose to be this much work? or am I probably being to compulsive about this rpm thing???
shawn - you should keep RPMs below 4200 rpm. It does state this in your owners book under running in info. You will vary the engine speed enough in everyday driving; they just don't want you driving across the country with the cruise set at 65. Quite frankly, if you have a problem keeping the revs below 4k, then you really need to mellow out your driving. It also says to avoid full throttle acceleration in the running in period - are you ??!!
South Africa - Firstly, while I can relate to the analogy of Italy vs Hong Kong for suits (and as anyone who has been to H.K. and had a quality suit made for them will tell you - they're probably better!) it's not really the same with such large scale manufacturing. The factory in S.A. is brand new and state of the art. The workers (all la creme de la creme in S.A. as that's where people WANT to work) are always in competition with Germany (where the Turkish immigrants work, the U of Munich folks don't consider the factory floor to be the most desirable option open to them) to see who can build the cars with the lowest problem rate. Only RWD 325i sedan cars are assembled there, nothing else. All the parts - including the platform - are imported from Germany. BMW has just two plants outside of Germany. Spartenberg (South Carolina) and South Africa. I know that it seems nicer to have the car finished in Germany, but not even I (!) can tell the difference between an SA car and a GER one. And I've seen a few!
No, I am not trying to put the peddle through the floor, so no problem here.
I guess what I find hard is gearing up at such a low rpm, the car seems to chung a bit until the rpms get going again.
I'm not driving like a maniac, did that with my 320i loaner, just hard to go from kicking it with the loaner to not really letting the car do what it wants to.
...or lack thereof. Remember that the entire SA auto industry in on strike at the moment, with everyone shut down [BMW, MB, VW, etc]. To my knowledge, there appears to be no settlement in sight.
I live in New York- I went to Towne BMW in Buffalo-very nice people, but the price there was 2100 over invoice. He told me my ED car would come out of his allocation, and it would have to be 2100 over because I had to pay for floor mats. Both of these are false. ED cars don't come from dealers allocations and they also come with floor mats. I love these forums where I can find out all this stuff and know more than the salesman. I almost signed on with them, but I made one phone call to New Motors in Erie, Pa. He agreed to 1600 over when I told him my story. Passport Bmw in Maryland orders them for 1400 over but it probably would have cost me $200 to drive there to get it--thats why I agreed to 1600 over. Of course we don't know the pricing yet. I have read great things about Passport but I wanted to buy local. I suggest you check Passport out.
Because I was fairly sure about my original assertion, I went back to research the recent past, and indeed, for some years now the Dunlop brand has been owned by Sumitomo Rubber of Japan. In turn, just recently, Sumitomo sold a stake in its business to Goodyear, and part of the deal was that GY got the rights to distribute the Dunlop brand in a number of countries around the world.
Like the rest of the tire business, Sumitomo/Dunlop has plants everywhere, so the tires you see as OEM on any given car could come from the four points of the compass. Anyway, it's no more "British" than Vauxhall...that is to say, a brand that was originally a British company, but with a name that was sold to raise cash to keep the company alive. UK executives still dominate management, as they do with Vauxhall and Aston and Land Rover, but the profits go elsewhere.
I ran the wire across at the top of the A pillar. You can tuck it into the joint between the headliner and A pillar trim. From there you can tuck the wire underneath the black weatherstripping that runs along the door opening.
X band: I mean actually turning it off. Follow this link:
Comments
btw, I have a picture of the wheel, anyone know how I can upload a picture?
The name of the picture is "325i Wheel"
If it was what really happened, like gurumike describe above, I think it is reasonable. But if there are other defects of the tire, then I don't think I should pay for it... The only problem is it is tough to tell what exactly had happened.
Could you please give me the status? I think it's in the sea and I'd like to track the progress. I ordered a July production black saphire/black leatherette 5 speed 325xi w/ cold pkg, xenon, power seats coming to VOB of Rockville, MD.
Thanks much in advance!
Thanks for any input.
I have a 2001 325i. Does anyone know where I can get a wood trim aftermarket piece that matches the factory styling?
Also the same with the shifter knob?
thanks
AK
I am doing European delivery and I got a dealership to agree to 1600 over euro invoice. <<<
Hi David, which State do you live? I contacted few Southern CA dealers on ED discount with no luck. Do you mind sharing your dealer/salesman's name? Thanks.
hippo - If they're splitting the difference then you totally lucked out! That's one hell of a "good will" claim!! Now, if only we could rationalize a good will policy on door dings!
Blacksapphire - I will look when I get home. Too busy right now!
I don't think they have a web site, but the phone number for that store is (781)938-4402.
both places sell wood-dash kits.
http://www.exoticwooddash.com/
http://www.autoanything.com/
But I guess the Michellin commercial was right, the tires are "the only safety feature that actually touches the road"...
I started off my work week with a tire explosion. Left the house to drive my son to camp. Once there noticed the tire was very low. I had felt absolutely nothing on the five mile drive there although I had not even played the radio. It is extremely difficult to detect a flat on these cars. (Of course, my sidewall was damaged and the tire exploded when air was added.) I'm really thinking about purchasing a tire pressure monitor.
V1: I've been using the concealed display for several weeks and there is one disadvantage: it does not adjust effectively for glare which is a much greater problem with a dash mount. On the whole I prefer the location. The mute button is easier to reach and you don't have to look up to view the information, but the glare is a problem. As to use in urban areas, if you live where you can safely turn off x-band, you will get almost no false alarms.
How do you drive it during the break in period and have any fun??
The first 1200 miles will be the longest miles in your life.
My first post and my first BMW (530i which I will have in couple months)! I can't wait.
Just one concern. I heard that some of the BMWs are made in South Africa. My preference is that my German cars be made in Germany. In truth I don't want my car made in South Africa (same as I would want my Armani's made in Italy, not Hong Kong). I think there will be a quality differnce (as with clothing), particularly with the political turbulence in that region. Am I overly concerned? What is the real story? What are the chances my BMW will be produced there? Does anyone have exericence with BMW's made in South Africa?
One other concern (idle time gives birth to concerns). My production week is the first week when these people come back from Octoberfest (druken stuper). When I come back from vacation, I don't usually get back to speed until like 3-5 days or so. Could quality be a issue here?
I know these may be trivial issues to some of you, but it's my first BMW and these issues are important to me. Thanks.
reuben - I am experiencing no problems with glare - my only concern is that the concealed unit might be too bright on the dash at night since it does not level. Oh, I drove without the concealed unit for the past 2-3 weeks and I got used to looking up every time the main unit went off. Now I'm still getting used to keeping my eyes on the dash, especially because the sound is still coming from the main unit above. I was wondering if you ran the wire along the A pillar and if you did, does it go behind the pillar (closer to the windshield) all the way down or you crossed it over to the inside of the pillar way up top. I'm not sure how the side air bag deploys and I certainly would not want anything in its way in case it does deploy. Other than that, it still amazes me that you can absolutely not see any wire in the car and I did not have to use tape at all to run an invisible wire from the roof to the dash. BTW, by "turning off x-band" you mean putting it in "L" mode, right?
Tires: I have written off GoodYears. I've had the Invictas and the Eagles in the past and they were so bad compared to the Dunlops that I replaced them with that I decided a tire manufacturer that makes tires like that will not get my money again. Michelins are good tires but probably overrated in this country and too expensive across the board for what they offer. I've never seen a bad product from Dunlop (definitely British BTW) and to me, they offer possibly the best combination between performance/quality/price overall. I have not had sufficient experience with the Contis to comment on their reliability yet but I am very happy with their performance and comfort. Again, any tire that is OEM on the 911 has to be good and I am inclined to think that some of the bad luck we've had with them is just coincidental.
Did anyone catch a couple of questions that I previously metioned:
1) Anyone know the updated list of recalled 3ers for the aux. fan switch....
2) Anyone sense on occasion that the clutch bears some pulsating resistance when disengaging it (when the pedal is pushed in), maybe from 3rd or 4th gear....just wondering
bmwrules,
I'm pretty sure that the 5 series are not manufactured in SA... only the 325is....
silver - I personally love the looks of the Star 44 BMW wheels. I'd get Dunlop SP8080's. There is no reason to go with BMW rims - it's just that they look good.
S.A. - All 5-series are made in Germany.
It is impossible to keep them constantly below 4500. 1st gear is almost non existant at this low rpm level, 2nd not much better and in 3rd the rpms are between 3000 & 4000 in the 60-80 km range, which is usable on city streets. IS the 1000 rpm a good enough difference???
Is this suppose to be this much work? or am I probably being to compulsive about this rpm thing???
South Africa - Firstly, while I can relate to the analogy of Italy vs Hong Kong for suits (and as anyone who has been to H.K. and had a quality suit made for them will tell you - they're probably better!) it's not really the same with such large scale manufacturing. The factory in S.A. is brand new and state of the art. The workers (all la creme de la creme in S.A. as that's where people WANT to work) are always in competition with Germany (where the Turkish immigrants work, the U of Munich folks don't consider the factory floor to be the most desirable option open to them) to see who can build the cars with the lowest problem rate. Only RWD 325i sedan cars are assembled there, nothing else. All the parts - including the platform - are imported from Germany. BMW has just two plants outside of Germany. Spartenberg (South Carolina) and South Africa. I know that it seems nicer to have the car finished in Germany, but not even I (!) can tell the difference between an SA car and a GER one. And I've seen a few!
guru - you make a good argument for SA.
I guess what I find hard is gearing up at such a low rpm, the car seems to chung a bit until the rpms get going again.
I'm not driving like a maniac, did that with my 320i loaner, just hard to go from kicking it with the loaner to not really letting the car do what it wants to.
The low ... ri..der drives a little slower.....
I almost signed on with them, but I made one phone call to New Motors in Erie, Pa. He agreed to 1600 over when I told him my story. Passport Bmw in Maryland orders them for 1400 over but it probably would have cost me $200 to drive there to get it--thats why I agreed to 1600 over. Of course we don't know the pricing yet. I have read great things about Passport but I wanted to buy local. I suggest you check Passport out.
Like the rest of the tire business, Sumitomo/Dunlop has plants everywhere, so the tires you see as OEM on any given car could come from the four points of the compass. Anyway, it's no more "British" than Vauxhall...that is to say, a brand that was originally a British company, but with a name that was sold to raise cash to keep the company alive. UK executives still dominate management, as they do with Vauxhall and Aston and Land Rover, but the profits go elsewhere.
X band: I mean actually turning it off. Follow this link:
http://www.valentine1.com/lab/MikesLabRpt3.asp
It will tell you how.