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Lexus ES 300/ES 330

199101103104105

Comments

  • 330owner330owner Posts: 6
    Thanks, that answers one of my questions too. I am going to check it out.
  • lirikallirikal Posts: 4
    Hi everyone.
    I drive a 97 ES300 (i know it's old but i love it) and after coming out of the carwash the other day, my trac off light came on and i can't seem to turn it off. According to the manual, if the light is flashing then there's a problem with the traction control but it isn't flashing. it just stays on.
    I've tried the trac control button below the steering wheel but the light still stays on.
    Can anyone offer any suggestions?
  • larry1larry1 Posts: 29
    Is the "check engine" light also on? Try this. Remove and then replace the gasoline cap until it clicks once or twice. Then to reset the idiot lights remove for a second, then reconnect the negative battery cable. On my 2000 ES300 a 12mm wrench fits. I have had my "check engine" and "trac off" lights come on in my former 1992 ES300, and my current 2000 ES300. The gas cap removal, replacement, and battery cable disconnection & reconnection has worked every time. Damn fancy cars :)
  • lirikallirikal Posts: 4
    Thanks larry. I'll try this when I'm done with work today. Hopefully this works.
  • petlpetl Posts: 610
    That solution was a temporary fix for my son's 1999. After a bit it came back on. The permanent fix was replacing the O2 sensor (approx. $200.00). No serious damage if it's not replaced, gas mileage may suffer.
  • alston28alston28 Posts: 97
    My wife just called me. She has a 2002 ES300 and is on a trip out of town. She went into a meeting. When she came out after about 2 hours all the windows were all the way down and the sunroof was open. I tried a Google search and found a thread about an RX where something like this happened. Could it be that, maybe by pressing the lock button on her key ring and holding it down, this somehow caused all the windows to lower and the sunroof to open? Any suggestions or comments will be appreciated. Thanks.
  • k124k124 Posts: 3
    Hi,

    Right now I have a Britax roundabout behind th epassenger seat and a Britax booster star riser comfy in the center. The Regent is 3 more inches than the roundabout. (21 inches wide)
    Has anyone installed this seat in any position and still were able to access the other 2 seatbelts?
    (The regent used to be called super elite or Husky)

    Thank-you,
    karen
  • az2004az2004 Posts: 6
    Alston28,
    You may want to check your owner manual. With my '06 ES330, by pressing the unlock button on the key ring and holding it for 3 seconds, it will lower all four windows and open the sunroof at the same time. This feature helps those of us that live in areas with warm weather and lots of sunshine. If you don't like this feature, it can be turned off by the dealer. Good luck
  • uffdaoleuffdaole Posts: 37
    Seeking info please on replacing cabin filter on daughters 01 es300. 16 years retired from self employed auto repair business, but sure can handle this. Still do most minor repairs for family. TIA
  • billodbillod Posts: 31
    Has anyone noticed how often Lexus requires service on their vehicles. It's every 5000 miles and with the exception of the first 5k check-up which is free, each one thereafter is quite expensive. Service visits cost around $200 for the 10k & 20k service with the 15k and 30k service visits costing over $300. The more mileage the more costly the charge. If you have a car for 3 years and 45k miles you're in for some hefty "basic" maintenance costs. By-the-way, if you don't service your car by Lexus's stated intervals, they won't provide much help if you have a problem along the way. They'll say you didn't service your car properly. So, when you're figuring out the cost of ownership for a Lexus, don't forget to add the maintenance costs to your monthly car payments, insurance payments and of course gas payments.
  • alston28alston28 Posts: 97
    Thanks. You're right. Pressing and holding the unlock button does that. Now that we know it's there, we like it. Thanks again.
  • jimbresjimbres Posts: 2,025
    We always went to our local mechanic for required maintenance on our '99 ES 300, partly to save money but also because our guy is just a few blocks away - a pleasant walk in good weather - while our dealer is 15+ miles away. As long as all work is properly documented & you retain the receipts, you should have no problems with warranty claims.
  • uffdaoleuffdaole Posts: 37
    MANY MANY thanks larry1. Very helpful, should be no problem. Good thread! :)
  • tomdtomd Posts: 87
    This question probably belongs in a different forum but I was wondering if it is possible to have tires mounted/unmounted without damaging the alloy wheels. Over the years I have had the tires on my 99 ES changed by Lexus and Toyota dealers and also several different tire places. Every time, there are new scratches and chips in various places on the wheels. These are the older wheels that still have the wheel weights on the outside so I realize that there will be marks where the weights were but I am talking about chips and scratches all over. What gives? It is the mounting equipment or just careless handling? Any recommendations as to how I can prevent this in the future when I get a new car?
  • richbf2richbf2 Posts: 73
    Do you guys know how to replace the air filter(not cabin filter)? I have 30k miles on my odormeter. Is it time to replace it yet? please adivse. Many thanks :confuse: :confuse:
  • richbf2richbf2 Posts: 73
    :confuse: Do you guys know how to replace the air filter(not cabin filter)? I have 30k miles on my odormeter. Is it time to replace it yet? please adivse. Many thanks
  • motownusamotownusa Posts: 836
    Found this article on Edmunds on how to change engine air filter. Here is the link. I cut and paste the relevant part of the article. Hope you can do it on your own. Good luck.

    http://www.edmunds.com/ownership/howto/articles/43786/article.html

    How often should you do this? A good rule of thumb is once or twice a year, or roughly once every 12,000 miles.

    Changing the Air Filter

    If nothing else, learn how to change your own air filter. It's quick and easy and saves you money.

    How so? Well, think about it: When was the last time you went to the Quick Lube-n-Tune place and had the mechanic hit you up with, "Hey Bud, you need a new air filter." After which you nod and watch as he adds it to the invoice. How much? $7.99? $9.99? $12.99? Heck, we've even seen $14.99.

    There's an old joke about the creation of the universe with the punch line, "Well, somebody had to pay retail." Maybe so. But not necessarily you.

    One of our jobs here at Edmunds.com is to empower you. Don't let them stick it to you. Learn to say no -- there's no law against it. Just say, "I'll pass for now," or, "Thanks, I'll look into it," and go home after the oil change and perform this procedure yourself -- if, in fact, it really needs to be done.

    First, park your car in the shade and pop the hood. Prop it up so it doesn't bang you in the head, then let the engine cool for a few minutes.

    While it's cooling, go get your tools. You'll need very few for this procedure -- you can probably do it with a butter knife. If handy, though, grab two medium-sized screwdrivers, one standard and one Phillips, and head back to the car.

    The air filter is typically enclosed in a black plastic casing near the center-top of the engine (sometimes, especially in larger vehicles, it will be off to the side). It should be the largest non-metal assembly you see, about the size of a breadbox. Find it? Good. Now, open it.

    How? Well, most of them are held together by a couple of large metal clips on the side. Slide the butter knife or flat-headed screwdriver between the casing and the clip and pry the casing open. Occasionally you'll find one held together with several long screws, in which case you'll have to unscrew it to get at the filter. (Many of the older cars use a cylinder air cleaner held inside a circular black case. It's like a giant doughnut that sits at the direct top-center of the engine.)

    Anyway, crack it open. You'll find the air filter inside. It's usually bright yellow or orange or red, the better to see the collected dirt.

    Pull it out. It's typically flat, elongated, usually about a foot long by six inches wide by two inches high. It's made of paper filament, with rubber edges along the bottom to seal it against the casing.

    Now, let's check it for cleanliness. Hold it up. Bend it back, so the paper ridges of the filter flutter like the pages of a book, and look inside the crevices. Do you see a lot of accumulated dirt and grime? Now hold it at arms length and look at it straight on. Is the orange or yellow paper mostly dirty in the center? If so, let's replace it. No big deal -- the replacement only costs about five bucks. Remember that $14.99 price at the Quik-Lube place? Here's where you get even.

    Close up the casing. Then put the old air filter in a plastic grocery bag. You're going to want to bring it with you, to compare old with new and make sure you get the right replacement, so toss it in the car and go clean up.

    By the way, it's okay to drive a car short distances without an air filter (something you can't do with a missing fuel filter).

    Here's what you need to buy at the auto parts store:
    new air filter

    new fuel filter

    new gasket(s) for the fuel filter -- they normally come with, but ask
    When you return, go ahead and install the new air filter. Seal it up and you're done.

    Fuel Filter Replacement

    This is a little more problematic procedure, since finding the thing can be half the battle. It's typically located near the top-center of the engine, close to the air filter, although sometimes, with more modern cars, it's actually built into the fuel tank and is a job more suited to your mechanic.

    First, if you value your life, extinguish any smoking materials while doing this procedure.

    Second, for better access, remove any oversized, plastic coverings from the top of the engine. They usually come off with a large, flat-head screwdriver.

    Now search for the fuel line, which comes from the rear of the car. It's about the same diameter as a thick finger, and will be soft and pliant, not a hard metal shaft. It will come into the fuel filter from the rear of the vehicle.

    Find it? Okay, now grab a couple of # 2 pencils. You'll also need several different sized screwdrivers, both flat-head and Phillips, and a small ratchet set.

    Here's what you're going to do. When you work the fuel line free of the filter, you're going to jam the pencil into the free end to keep gasoline from spilling all over the engine (and yourself).

    The fuel line will normally be secured to the fuel filter with a little clamp. Work it off with a screwdriver -- usually a Phillips -- and stop-gap it with the pencil. (Sometimes you'll need a larger diameter object than a pencil. You'll have to be resourceful here, since we don't know what you have lying around in your junk drawer at home. One of those first-grader primer pencils is perfect.)

    After you've plugged the fuel line, you can set to work removing the fuel filter. It's normally secured to the engine with a couple small bolts. Find the right-sized socket and remove the filter. It will have a hose coming off the other end (this goes to the engine), so remove this one the same way you did the other ones, and plug it with the other pencil.

    Compare the new filter with the old filter, and make sure you position it in the same way, so that the fuel is flowing in the right way. Sometimes there's an arrow on the filter showing you which direction the fuel flows.

    Put the assembly together in reverse of the way you took it apart. Before you do, though, take a quick look at the new filter.

    You'll note that there two metal (or plastic) shafts coming off the filter where the hoses attach. They have little nubs or ridges near the ends. Make sure to slide the rubberized lines onto the filter as far past the nubs as you can get them.

    Also, pay special attention to the clamps on either end of the filter. Position them between the nubs and the body of the filter. Then get them snugged down good and tight (but not so tight as to strip the screw), to prevent leakage.

    One last thing. If the hoses are getting brittle and frayed, make a mental note to buy some new hoses next time you change your filter. If they're really bad, replace them now.

    After you have everything reassembled and secure, run the engine for a few minutes. Inspect the hoses and connections to make sure no fuel is
  • silleck330silleck330 Posts: 19
    Just got my 15,000 service on 2005 Es-330. $700 !!!
    They did wash the car and replace the cabin filter
    The new one does not smell like an electrical fire.
  • fredvhfredvh Posts: 857
    What did they do for $700.00? Can you give us the details? Did you have them do just the required maintenance items that are listed in the maintenance schedule?
  • dlb123dlb123 Posts: 1
    I recently bought a 99 ES300. I would like to fix the little cosmetic problems but can't find the parts. Center counsel drink holder is broke, passenger window control trim missing and speaker in back deck broken. Can I only get these from a dealer? Also, needs new tires, what are people using for best performance. 205-65-r15 Turanza is currently on the car. Car is in WI.
    And lastly, my insurance co. says it's a coach,????
  • tmarttmart Spring, TXPosts: 1,449
    You might be able to get the trim parts from a junk yard. The dealer would be the last place I'd go because of the cost, but he'd have the part or be able to get them. Can't help on the tires, I'm in Texas. Interesting that "coach" shows on your insurance papers. :confuse: It probably means you have the Coach Edition, a limited edition that Lexus makes periodically. If so, you have Coach leather, instead of regular leather, different wheels, and an emblem between the front wheels and the doors that say Coach Edition. Also, the Lexus emblems are a smokey gray instead of chrome.
  • silleck330silleck330 Posts: 19
    Cabin filter $155
    Oil,Lube
    Wiper blades
    rotate and balance tires
    check and clean belts,brakes,etc.
    Car Wash $495
  • fredvhfredvh Posts: 857
    Thanks for the info. That does seem like a lot of money for a relatively few items. I have a 2006 and I am just going to follow the required work that is listed in the Maintenance Schedule. In my book these are the things listed for the 15,000 mile service:
    Oil and oil filter change
    rotate tires
    check brakes
    inspect shaft boots, ball joints, brake lines, coolant level, exhaust pipes, rack and pinion assembly, and steering linkage and boots. My book says there are a couple other things that need checking but only if the vehicle is primarily operated in desert, on dirt roads or while towing.
    Your vehicle shouldn't need wiper blades or cabin filter at this point unless they are in bad shape from extraordinary use. You could save some money by replacing those items yourself if you wished. I hope this has helped.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Cabin filters can easily be "too" clogged even at 8,000 miles excluding dusty road drinving. And here in the Seattle if you get 15,000 miles from a set of wiper blades you're "pushing" it. But those, together, should have been more than $75-$100 w/labor.
  • silleck330silleck330 Posts: 19
    They did change the cabin filter at 8,000 but
    the one they used had an electrical smell when
    the climate control was turned on. (also reported
    by other owners on the board). Now there is no sign
    of any spell. Took her out on the parkway this
    weekend and she is running smooth and quiet.
  • bholtbholt Posts: 1
    Just joined this forum for 1st time. I have a 1995 Lexus and the one big problem is the headlights. They are not very bright at all. One repair shop said to try high beams too. I thought I'd try it and see how the on-coming traffic reacted. Did not get any flashing lights so I guess they were not bothered. Something is not right with the brightness of the 95 Lexus lights. If anyone has any ideas please let me know.

    Thanks,
    bholt
  • dwinerdwiner Posts: 13
    Just had my 15K service on a 2005 ES330. I thought the $110 charge was outrageous for an oil change, tire rotation and car wash. I can't imagine how you tolerated $700. I waited for the car, and had to chuckle as the service writer came into the waiting room for each person trying to sell them up for assorted services. EVERY person was told their air filter and cabin air filter were dirty and needed replacement. Cost about $100 for both. Makes you wonder about the coincidence. When it was my turn for the pitch they tried to sell me tire balancing and new filters too. The line was "your air filter and cabin air filter are dirty". I asked if someone drove the car and determined that the tires were out of balance. Response was "no, we just recommend it for good maintenance". Gee, why would anyone balance a tire that is already balanced? The factory maintenance sched for air filter is 30K miles and cabin air filter is 10K. They never looked at the filters, just hoped everyone would just say yes. when I got home I checked both filters, both were fairly clean, just vacuumed a few bugs and leaf particles out. It took about 5 minutes to check each one.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Buy new filters, look through them at a 40 watt incandescent bulb and then do the same with your used ones. IMMHO 30k is too long, by twice, for the engine intake filter but 10k is about right for the cabin air filter.
  • dwinerdwiner Posts: 13
    Excellent idea! I'll try that. I'm wondering if that comparison will be useful for the cabin filter as I think they are charcoal loaded, which makes the new ones look dirty. Might you have any experience with the washable engine air filters?
  • pai7pai7 Posts: 35
    I saw something about the headlights getting clouded
    and that there was a product that can help remove some
    of the clouding. Symptons of clouding were low/dim lights.
    You could try searching on the web for the product
  • curt2005curt2005 Posts: 70
    I was looking tonight at the used ES 330s on a dealer lot and noticed that a couple of them have a rocker switch on the console next to the shifter.

    It is a black two-position rocker switch with what looks like three horizontal squiggles on it in white.

    This isn't the four-position switch for the variable suspension.

    What is it?

    (I forgot to ask the sales rep.)

    Thanks!
  • olddaveolddave Posts: 21
    I have a 2005 ES330 -
    It has two "switches" next to the shifter. One is the control switch for the "electronic modulated suspension". It is a 4-position switch with "SPORT" labeled at the top and "COMFORT" at the bottom. The other switch is spring-loaded and it is the rear electric sunshade switch.
  • curt2005curt2005 Posts: 70
    Thank you!

    Does the rear electric sunshade really work?

    Is the variable suspension worth having or does it just add complexity to the car?

    Thanks
  • dennydenny Posts: 17
    I suppose opinions will vary, but I haven't used the sunshade once in the two years I've had the car. Maybe in Florida or Arizona type climates it would be useful, but here in the midwest I find the sunshade a useless feature.
  • olddaveolddave Posts: 21
    I use our sunshade all of the time - we have a 9-year old son who always has to ride in the back seat. I live in a Denver suburb, and today we took a 190-mile round trip up into the mountains. My wife was also riding in the back seat today, and I specifically asked her if the sunshade helped to cut down the glare from the sun, and she told me that it helped a lot. Last summer we took a 3900-mile round trip to the east coast and we used it a lot on that trip as well. Ironically, shortly after we returned from that trip, I discovered that the sunshade was broken. I had it replaced under warranty. The dealer said it was an $1100 warranty job. I have not had any trouble with it since then.
  • olddaveolddave Posts: 21
    I hope the variable suspension does not become a maintenance/warranty nightmare - I noticed that Lexus has discontinued it for 2007. But we use it for very specific circumstances, and it seems to work well. My wife was recently driving in a severe cross wind situation. She said after she switched the control to "SPORT", she immediately had much better control of the car. Today on a long trip into the Rocky Mountains, I used it in "SPORT" mode on most of the mountain highways and two-lane roads, and the car felt much more responsive, and the sway on mountain curves was greatly reduced.

    Just my opinion for what it is worth.....
  • fredvhfredvh Posts: 857
    Great post. I too have an ES330 and plan to do the routine maintenance items myself(oil, rotation, and filters). I was aware that Lexus charges outrageous prices for their maintenance before I bought the Lexus. I suppose most people just grin and bear it but not me. Did most people ok the filter changes at the dealership?
    Almost always the owner's manual is pretty close when it comes to the recommended maintenance items. However 30k miles might be a bit much for an air filter. I usually change mine at 15k. You can buy them yourself(Fram). I do not have any experience with the cabin air filter as of yet. However it depends on the driving conditions that you are in. Some people drive on gravel roads and/or are in dusty/dirty environments. That certainly will make a difference.
    I don't have an answer on tire balancing either. I have not done mine yet and have not thought about when I will do it. You could talk to a good tire shop and see what they recommend about when to re-balance them.
    By the way, what kind of mpg are you getting? I got 27.4 actual on my last tank of mostly highway driving.
  • fredvhfredvh Posts: 857
    I just got back from vacation and have not yet read all of the past posts on the new ES350. What is the latest info on the new 6-speed trans problems?
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Hi Fred - are you looking for Lexus ES 350?

    ;)
  • 99es30099es300 Posts: 3
    I have a 1999 ES 300. I really like the convenience of the all-in-one key remote found in the 2000 and above models. If I buy the key remote (blank) off the internet and have it cut matched to my key, can it be programmed to my ES? (The key looks the same, but is there ability to be programmed to the remote?)

    Also, it looks as if the 2000-01 tail lights (complete tail lights) will fit my 1999. Is this possible? What about the headlights?

    Thanks to anyone who can help.
  • fredvhfredvh Posts: 857
    Yes, thanks Pat. I posted in the wrong forum.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Why doesn't Lexus add a SuperCharger to the Camry Hybrid and market it as an ES250h..???

    700 VDC already available for a variable frequency AC power source for a nice compact 3 HP AC motor to drive the centrifical Supercharger.

    Virtually no power comsumption from the batteries until WOT or near WOT and then enough GO to make it POWERFULL enough for a Lexus.
  • 99es30099es300 Posts: 3
    A guy is selling a 1999 ES300 asking $9,000. It has 111,000 miles on it.. What are thoughts on this possible purchase? It is pretty clean and looks to be well maintained. From my research, I have found this to be a pretty reliable car... Anything specific I should pay attention to or look for?
  • es3000es3000 Posts: 1
    my middle vents on my '93 ES300 is blocked some how. When i switch from head and feet mode to head mode there is a knock sound in the dash area and air seems to be coming out defrost. Also air is trickiling out center but comes out fine on the sides and below, when in that mode. Has any one had this problem? If so how did u fix it? Do i have to take the dash apart?
  • larry1larry1 Posts: 29
    The tail lights from a 2000 or a 2001 WILL fit on a 1999. I've seen pictures on clublexus.com
  • curt2005curt2005 Posts: 70
    There is a clear tube a few inches from where the jack rests under the toolkit pallet on the right side of the trunk. What does it do? Thanks.
  • 99es30099es300 Posts: 3
    THANKS!
  • roachbuggroachbugg Posts: 15
    Hello all,

    I write because I have a question about an offer made on an ES330. A dealer has emailed me about a 2006 ES330 Black Diamond with NAV for 32,880. Does that seem like a good price? The car has about 4,300 miles on it. Sounds good to me- but I want to be sure. Any input would be helpful. Thanks :)
  • greayregsgreayregs Posts: 9
    Any recommendations of where to hide a key on a 2004 ES 330?
This discussion has been closed.