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Lexus ES 300/ES 330
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Comments
Avoid the Lexu$ dealer$ $hop$.
This seems like an incredible deal to me, since I'm looking at used altima 3.5s for roughly the same price. I've read quite a bit about the transmission issues here in the forums, but I didn't notice it when I test drove it a couple days ago. I did notice that it wasn't a very beefy engine, but I'll trade that for the lush interior and cushy ride. I'm taking it to an independant mechanic in a few days for a look-see, is there something I can alert him to that would say if this transmission problem has been fixed or not? I'll definitely pay attention to it when I drive to the mechanic, but I think it won't be much of a problem for me since I'm not a speed freak anyway.
Other than that, I'm pretty excited, I didn't think I'd be able to get into a car like this for the price.
I considering the purchase of a 2003 ES from a good friend who tells me he has never had a transmission issue with his car. Do all 2003 models have this problem?
Any pointers on other things to look for will be appreciated.
TIA
I am the second owner of a 1998 ES 300 with approximately 86k miles. I purchased the car 12/01 when it was 4 years old and had 35k miles on it so I've had it a little over 5 years. So, the car is 9 years old as of last December.
I have never taken the car to the dealer for service because it has always been quite far from my house- I've moved around a bit since I purchased the car.
My "check engine" light has come on three separate times, starting in May of 2005. The first mechanic said it was the O2 sensor and he reset it.
Later it came back on.
The second mechanic replaced that sensor.
The engine light came back on but the same mechanic said it was the "knock sensor" P-330 and he reset that because the "condition wasn't present at that time."
Now the engine light is back on and I am aware that in addition my engine has a significant sludge problem. I've changed the oil every 3-5k miles. I do realize that the first owner may not have regularly changed the oil but it was "clean" when I purchased it.
Unfortunately, neither of the mechanics mentioned the sludge problem to me.
My question is this- is the oxygen and/or knock sensor possibly related to the sludge?
I ask because I have a claim with Lexus/Toyota re: sludge only if I can show that the sludge problem existed within 8 years of purchase. If the engine light reoccurence will demonstrate that (it started within 6-7 years of purchase) it may help my case. I need to know before I lose my rights to file a claim next week. The repair could cost more than 10k.
Thanks so much!
The following procedure is always the first thing I try when the dreaded "check engine" light comes on: With the engine off remove the gas cap and replace it tightly, until you hear a click or two. Then open the hood and using the proper wrench, remove the negative battery cable from the battery for a second, then replace it. That should turn off the "check engine" light. This has always worked for me, on my old 1992 ES300, and my current 2000 ES300.
The sludge problem is not related to the oxygen sensor.
I did have a mechanic tell me the knock sensor may be activated by sludge. Do you agree?
I am not a car mechanic, so I can't say for sure. But to me that doesn't seem likely. Sludge is sort of like gummy oil deposits in the engine crankcase and oil passageways, while a knock sensor senses low octane fuel which could cause the air/fuel mixture to detonate too early in the compression cycle. Two unrelated things, in my opinion, but then again, I only know so much about car mechanicals.
One other thing I forgot to add to my previous post: If disconnecting the negative battery cable (a 12mm socket) for a second doesn't reset the "check engine" light, disconnect the negative battery cable again and leave it off for five minutes. That should definitely turn the light off.
Cy
Have any of you had this problem or have suggestions? I have left the car at the dealership for service tomorrow. They mentioned around $150 for the repair plus service. I am hope the $150 included not only the relay, but also the labor.
THANKS in advance for any info!
Matt
I have had the same problem (VSC engaging on a clear dry road) several times with my 2003 LX470. Extremely frightening. Left it at the dealer for three days, and they could find nothing wrong. Can you provide any more information as to the steps you are pursuing with Lexus?
Thanks.
to find anything online about towing capacity.
We just need to tow an open trailer with sides...
for moving household items. Wanted to do it with
our 1997 Toyota 4-door RAV4... 4-wheel drive. But
since the towing capacity is only 1500 lbs,and it
appears that most of the little open utility
trailers weight about 900 lbs. already, we will
hve to put the hitch on the Lexus. Any info?
Advice?
BTW, bought this car with 25,000 miles. Now,
104,000 and never any serious repairs except the
Nakamichi [sp?] sound system... cd player. We
have a great after-market warranty. Just renewed
it for 2 years or 24,000 miles more. So even the
CD repairs only cost us $50. I think the new
warranty is now $100 deductible, but still a good
deal. Love my lexus!!!
thanks for your help!
Angie
I'm looking at a 99 with 140K mile (and an attractive price...private sale). I have yet to drive the vehicle but the photos look like it's in very good condition. I also have to run the VIN but they say it's clean.
I intend to use the vehicle as a commuter vehicle and will only put on approx 8k miles a year (suburban & highway miles). I need the vehicle to last at least 3 years.
I've read a few of the posts and the problems run similar to other makes/model (though I'm not sure of the frequency).
The manual on my 330 was not that enthusiastic about adding a hitch because it compromises the crash performance of the bumper. I decided not to.
Your friend's Camry has no bearing on your car. Any two cars will have different problems over the life of the car.
Don't wait too long. If it IS an engine mount, you don't want to have another engine mount break while another one or more are broken.
I am glad you got the engine mount fixed and that they demonstrated the problem for you.
If you have done three trans fluid changes in the last 47,000 miles, I don't think you need any trans flush in the near future.
It was likely the "slider" bolt that was at fault anyway, nothing to do, really, with the caliper itself.
There currently are 5 91/92 & 95 LS400's within my realm of knowledge or control that are well over 150,000 miles and have NEVER had the timing belt issue addressed in any way. The one's in my control will remain that way.
I've only seen one timing belt removed, 92 LS at 153,000 miles, and that belt looked good to go another 100,000 miles.
When traveling during a constant rate of speed the car would began to shift "hard" and the RPMs would jump from 2600-4500 and back down quite erratically at which point the VSC light would come on.
I took the car to the dealership who said they could not recreate the problem and that the computer chip recorded no problems. After picking up the car and driving on a short trip the problem resumed at which point the car began to shift extremely erratically again and the RPMs redlined and would drop, as the car began to lose acceleration I pulled over to the safety lane as the car bucked. The car would not move even when put into gear but sounds fine. I have always had the maintenance done etc...
I am extremely frustrated with the dealership as they did not seem to take the issue seriously only to have it repeat with more serious results. I would appreciate anyone's input.
I have recently purchased a '93 ES300 with 160k miles on it, hoping to get a year or two out of it. Anyway, when I pulled into work this morning, it sounded like elves with ball-peen hammers were working under the hood. This tapping sound was different from pinging, it sounds like a hard metallic noise.
Anyway, I had it towed home and started it for a short time and pulled the spark plug wires one at a time and when I pulled the front left wire, the noise lessened to almost nothing. I realize that the car probably has a serious problem, but I was hoping some one could give me a likely cause (or causes) for my noise.
The oil was changed less than two months (2000 miles) ago and I verified oil level was "Full" on the dipstick.
Thanks!!
I changed the fluid. It is kind of a pain to refill. I used a 2 cycle oil syringe to refill the differential; squirting close to 2 quarts with a syringe was a pain. Just make sure you can open the fill hole (also a 10mm hex bolt) BEFORE you drain the fluid. The bolts were torqued on hard and I needed a breaker bar to open the fill hole bolt. The fill hole is on the back side of the differential.
The Haynes manual has pictures which are quite good.