Volkswagen Passat 2005 and earlier

mjc134 · November 2003

At the next oil change I will definitely go to synthetic. Seems like the best thing to do for this engine or possibly any engine.

altair4 · November 2003

...the w8 engine is supposed to only use 5w-40. It pretty much confines you to using synthetic oil. 5w-40 is available in Valvoline Synpower brand, at NAPA auto parts stores (part #966). I haven't read the Mobil 1 0w-40 label...just make sure it hits the standards that VW wants. (ILSAC GF-3, VW 50X standards, etc). The latest iteration of Synpower is 5w-40, ILSAC GF-3, ACEA A3/B3/B4, API SL, and VW 502 and 505 compliant.

The dealer should have 5w-40 (Castrol Syntec - virtually only available through the VW dealer network) for the W8 and for their TDI service. You may save a few bucks bringing your own oil in for the change, though.

03w8 · November 2003

It is interesting to hear that another W8 has the same 7F error. It annoys the heck out of me. I know it is not a physical problem (engine heat, road surface temp.) because my other cars have dead on readings. As far as initial oil, many of the Germany and high end Japanese auto makers would use synthetic as initial oil. My VW dealer said my W8's initial oil was synthetic so they replaced it with the same during my 5K oil change. I got a letter from Merc-Benz telling me that it is extending my ML320's engine warranty to 10years/100K miles. Rumor was that it had "discovered" that some of the M-class did not have synthetic oil as initial oil in the factory.

markcincinnati · November 2003

As we all know there are engines that go into VW's and Audis that are only different from each other based on the shroud or valve covers (four rings vs VW on the 2.8 or 1.8T engine, etc.)

My Audi dealer uses Mobil1 -- I wouldn't care what "name brand" full syn oil they used and if 0W 40 is what they use, I say fine.

I agree, use the oil that meets OR exceeds the demands of the VW (or VW group) engine (a W8 in this case) in your car. I do not have a copy of the manual, and if 5W 40 is or is not able to be met or exceeded by 0W 40 Mobil1, well heck -- DON'T USE IT! But if Pennzoil or Quaker State or Valvoline or or or has a syn oil that meets or exceeds the requirements -- go for the least expensive one that will work.

I only go with Mobil1 because it is what the dealer uses and it is available from Costco. Not too scientific I'll admit -- but there is something about a syn oil -- it just never seems to get consumed. My 2.7T @ 20,000 miles has never used one drop of oil inbetween oil changes. I am now on my third crankcase full of oil and the last two have been Mobil1 -- I don't know what came from the factory.

Maybe I just bought into the propaganda -- but until I find out differently, I'm gonna stick with synthetic oil (and in my case, for the time being, Mobil1).

brozhnik · November 2003

One other question about the 2003 Passat 1.8T: the recommended tire pressure. I didn't write them down, but the numbers over the fuel cap surprised me. I think it said something like "half load, 28 front 34 rear" (Not sure of that ), and "full load, 30 front, 39 rear".
Could this be right? And how do I tell if I have a half or full load? And 39 would be close to the limit for Michelin Energy tires, wouldn't it? Sounds a little scary.
But if anyone can explain this, I'd appreciate it. Thanks.

reidk · November 2003

Don't recall the precise pressure settings, but do recollect that there is a considerable range between the recommendation for half load / lower speeds and full load / higher speeds. And, at least on my '99 (V6), the rear setting goes from Below that of the front tires (at half load) to considerably Above the front tire setting (at full load) - which makes some sense if you assume the bulk of any additional weight will ride more heavily on the rear tires than the front.

Assuming the Energys are the 195/65HR15 91H spec, 39psi is still well within the tire's max, which is set at 51psi(!). (Compare this against the 35psi of the 195/65VR15 89V Energys, and the 44psi Max for most other sizes in that line).

markcincinnati · November 2003

Funny thing about the VW/Audi products and tires -- these vehicles are heavier on the front than in the back.

My best overall experience comes from having the front tires +2 pounds more air (cold) than the rears. Handling improves, ride doesn't change.

I use 38 front 36 rear, have tried 39/37 and 36/34 -- the 36/34 is most comfortable.

tpat3 · November 2003

Since the Monsoon head unit on my wife's '03 GLS is apparently already wired for a CD changer, does anyone know if we can just plug an ipod into it?

We've gotten conflicting information about this. My wife has already purchased a cable that is supposed to connect the two, so presumably this will work. I'm skeptical since a local dealer and the local car audio store haven't heard of it (the part).

Thanks for any info.

brozhnik · November 2003

Thanks for the tire info. And the premium really seems to help-- the car is definitely getting more fun to drive. And maybe I'm getting used to it also, or it's getting used to me.

Another question: I can get a 7-year 100,000 mile "Max Care Plus" warranty from Warranty Direct for $1,150. Should I do so?
Peace of mind would certainly be welcome. I probably wouldn't do this on a Camry, but this is a Passat. What do you think? Would it be a good choice? (The dealer's extended warranty is $2000 so it's out of the running!)

Thanks.

fish8 · November 2003

I have always heard to stay away from extended warranties that do not come from the manufacturer (i.e. VW). There is a consumer advocate (Clark Howard) here in Atlanta that always states to NOT go with a 3rd party when it comes to extended warranty coverage. He says these companies are always going out of business and if they do, you are SOL. So, I think it would be risky to buy the warranty from Warranty Direct.

He also gives the advice of calling your auto insurance company and see if they offer such a product.

brozhnik · November 2003

Thanks fish8.

This site
http://www.wheelsdirect2u.com/buying_warranty.htm
disagrees, sort of. It says,
"......Be sure you're dealing with a rated warranty company. They should reinsure the claims account with an American insurance company (no offshore deals), rated "A" or better (1Source is rated "AA") by A. M Best. [Warranty Direct is rated "A"].
ISourceAutoWarranty deposits part of your contract purchase in an insured "claims reserve account" to ensure funds are available to cover claims, as does Warranty Direct. 1Source is insured by Swiss Reinsurance America. Warranty Direct's administrator, Interstate national Dealer Services, is publicly traded [Comment: okay, on NASDAQ, but ...]. "

The site actually says that some dealer extended warranties go bust--not that they back it up.

Anyway, it does seem that Warranty Direct has been around for years, so that gives it some credibility, I hope. Anyway, I should look up Clark Howard and see what he says specifically about this.
But... more comments, anyone?

pat · November 2003

There is also a lot of conversation about this very subject here in the Town Hall on our Finance, Warranty & Insurance board. And don't forget to check out the Warranty Tips on our host site.

quan69 · November 2003

engine: what markcincinnati said about the engine taking a while to break in is very true. I thought my 1.8T was pretty sluggish until about 2500-2600 miles on the odometer. Now (at 5,100 miles), i have this big grin on my face when i step on the gas pedal and the car just keeps on pulling as the turbo whooosh sound kicks in. and i havent't even chipped the car yet -- saving it until 10,000-15,000 miles.

wipers: try lifting the two units up and snap them gently down again. that seemed to have fixed mine (it might take 10 seconds or so for them to find their groove or whatever). if that doesn't work then i guess you'll have to try the dealership.

brozhnik · November 2003

Pat, that discussion board on extended warranties is a gold mine. And quan69, thanks for the input. I'm already starting to enjoy this car more.

The only new weird thing I'm noticing is that for the first miles I feel more engine vibration coming through the seats than I was expecting, esp. when it idles at a stop light. (I'd expected it to be super smooth.) Seems less noticeable after I've been driving a while. (and the weather has gotten cold here--could that be a factor?)Anyone know what this is?
Thanks.

fish8 · November 2003

I looked at the site you referenced and finally found a link to Extended Warranty Quotes.

Just a thought: If the site you sent me to is offering to sell these warranties or directs you to a site that sells them, then I would think they would be bias and therefore try to downplay the saftey Auto Manufacturers own extended warranties provide.

In your post you also reference many groups that I am just not familiar with (i.e. Swiss Reinsurance America). If you are familiar with them great, but if I have never heard of them I would be skeptical.

This site might help:

http://clarkhoward.com/library/cars.html

altair4 · November 2003

I got a good chuckle out of the 'wheelsdirect" quote about their AM Best rating. Having dealt with business insurance for 20 years, I have seen a couple of companies lose the A (or better) rating so quickly that you head would spin and then fold (Reliance Insurance is a good example - presently in receivership).

An extended warranty that goes out, say, seven years is still a crap shoot, in my book. No one can adequately predict the insurance business that far out, especially if the carrier is a small player.

brozhnik · November 2003

Thanks, guys. The scariest thing reading those discussion boards was of the extended warranty company refusing to pay for when a repair actually came up -- apparently 1Source had a little clause in the contract which says they won't pay for anything for which there's a TSB. That excludes a whole lot of your likely repairs, so people ended up paying both for the warranty and for the repair. Ouch!
Caveat emptor, etc.
Anyway, I haven't ruled out Warranty Direct, but you're right, it's a crapshoot. I'll see what I can turn up--meanwhile, I appreciate the cautions.
Broz

brozhnik · November 2003

One other question. I turned down the dealer's "offer" to do a "paint sealant" as part of an $850 package. But I kinda would like to inaugurate the car with a good professional wax job. ($50 or so around here, so by comparison it seems cheap!) But here's my question:

One detailer says he'd used a cleaner wax followed with a "butter wax." The other says he'd use Carnauba-based wax. And I know the dealer uses a teflon-fortified wax for the sealant job.

I realize that the greats disagree on this issue, but any suggestions on which of these I should do? And in the future I'll wax it myself, so suggestions on that will be appreciated too.
Thanks
Broz

robr2 · November 2003

IMHO, I'd avoid a cleaner wax on a new car. That's a cheap way to basically buff out the car.

I'd go with someone who will hand clay to remove any surface impurities and then put a quality coat of whatever you are comfortable with.

Check out the wax and zaino forums here for more than you would ever want to know.

altair4 · November 2003

I like robr2's thoughts. Clay bar and then good wax. Probably the most contentious topic other than motor oil discussions! Some like the Meguiar products, others go with Klasse, others are Zaino fans, and others like Einszett (1-Z).

Since I do my own car and have a life (toddler, long work day, etc), I went with Einszett. It's a very easy product to apply and buff out, with longlasting protection.

I used Einszett Metallic Polish followed by Einszett Glanz Wax. I bought some foam applicators and microfibre buffing cloth. The whole car took about two to three hours to do, including wash, polish, wax and leather conditioning for the seats. Not bad, and I'm good to go for the winter.

I bought my Einszett stuff from parts4vws.com and the microfibre and foam applicators from yosteve.com. Both provided good service. There are other vendors for this kind of stuff, though.

Good luck.

markcincinnati · November 2003

. . .will, I predict, last EXACTLY as long as the warranty.

My wife and I have owned over 25 Audis, 3 VW's, 1 BMW and a couple of Chryslers since the 70's -- our favorites: German cars, our most favorites of all: VW/Audi products.

These cars are great, spectacular even from time to time -- however, therefore, notwithstanding -- I do not know anyone who is wealthy enough to own one of these fine cars out of the warranty.

Audis and VW's (and BMW's) are breathtakingly expensive to repair (and ultimately to maintain) with your own money. Anecdote: it is cheaper to lease a new one every 50,000 miles than it is to risk keeping one outside of the warranty.

The chances of a catastrophic failure are not that great. The thing is -- minor repairs at 50+ thousand miles are usually major dollars -- it is not that the cars are cheaply made or crummy in any way. I am not suggesting any such thing.

Most of the folks I know and this includes the owner of a VW and a Porsceh/Audi store -- "duly caution and warn me" not to "run naked" (i.e., without a warranty) in these cars -- the costs will astound and amaze and shock -- and your love affair with your wonderful VW will end with the first 4 figure repair bill.

Granted aftermarket warranty companies CAN go out of biz -- but there are good ones out there, if you think you're "style" is to keep the car a long long time (beyond 50K) and you think you'll take your chances on the repair bills -- you better have at least a $5,000+ kitty earmarked "unknown and possible repair expenses for my beloved German car."

Hey, if I'm wrong and you don't have a big bill, you'll at least have money in the bank! If I'm right, you'll still be upset, but at least you'll not have to take the money out of current funds.

I'd check into after 50K VW authorized/sponsored warranty programs (they usually cost around $1,000) that often extend the protection to 100,000 miles or two additional years, whichever comes first.

You have been duly cautioned and "warned!"

And, I am an AVID Audi/VW fanatic -- i.e., I say these things as a friend of VWoA!

mclpcm · November 2003

We are disappointed in the wipers with the Passat. Can heavy-duty wipers be used? Are there good wipers on the repalcement market? Any help would be appreciated. and website urls would be a big plus? Thanks

bronsonb · November 2003

Question for the experts.... do you think I have any chance of getting VW to cover warped rotors on a 2003 Passat GLS wagon with 16K miles? I haven't had the car in for them to check it yet, but when I asked the service rep on the phone, he said "it might be covered under warranty, but we'll have to look at it." The skeptical part of me thinks that means "it isn't covered any more, but once we have you in, we can sock you for a $450 brake job."

My feeling is that even though wear and tear items are covered for 12 months, 12,000 miles, rotors should not be warped at 16,000 miles. So I was wondering if anyone else who has had rotors replaced under warranty got it done AFTER 12 months or 12,000 miles.

Any help or information would be appreciated. Of course, there's always the possibility that they aren't warped and that it's something else, but just based on the pulse from the brake pedal and the vibration in the steering wheel while braking, I am thinking they are warped.

Thanks, in advance, for your help.

bronsonb · November 2003

I wanted to follow up on the list with the status of my car after 1K miles with Valvoline 5w40 oil. The car is running great and even seems to be getting better gas mileage. Took it on a road trip last weekend, and I got 30MPG most of the way with some expressway and mostly country highway driving.

Before the oil change, the car got around 26 highway and 22 city. That was with the dino oil the dealer kept putting in. Have others experienced similar increases? Of course, I have also heard that once you hit 10K miles, the MPG increases, but I've been over 10K for some time now...and I swear the MPG didn't increase until the oil change.

Thanks for listening.

altair4 · November 2003

I believe that it's very difficult to pin a marked increase of MPG on the oil. There are so many other inputs that can visibly impact MPG...temperature, tire pressure, mileage on the engine, are you running the a/c, how many lights have you hit, how frequently on boost (if we're talking 1.8T), etc.

Ancedotally, I got almost 31 mpg on our Passat on a trip from Western PA to Western Ohio, in February, with 2,500 miles on the engine (most people would say the engine was still "tight" then), with the original factory oil.

I got virtually the same mpg going from Western PA to Windsor, Canada, in late August. The engine then had about 8,000 miles on it and I was running Valvoline 5w-40 Synpower. I'm driving a Wagon with the 1.8T and with Tiptronic. While driving the back roads around Essex county in Ontario, I was at times averaging 35 mpg (all US values).

Since I keep very close track of my mileage on a spreadsheet (I really need to do something about that compulsive-obsessive thing), I can tell you I see a seasonal variation that runs something like this:
Winter & Summer: slightly lower mileage, due to cold weather in winter and running A/C in summer. Interestingly, in the three cars that I have watched over this closely, the summer and winter mpg's are very close to each other.
Spring and Autumn: Best mileage of the year - warm enough for quick arrival of engine and transmission efficiency, but not hot enough to run A/C.

So a graph shows this cyclical rise and fall, with spring and fall being the high points and the winter and summer being the low points.

Just my opinion, YMMV (and probably does!).

markcincinnati · November 2003

I cannot speak to the warranty issue -- I can speak to the rotor issue -- they go out very frequently.

My 2000 Audi A6 and my 2001 Audi A6 went through NINE sets of rotors (combined) on a combined milage of 57,000 miles.

My 2003 Audi allroad with 20,000 miles has the original rotors and pads and NO issues.

My dealer service tech says that sometime Audi/VW switched rotors and switched brake configuration -- your vehicle may have the "old" rotor config and if this is the case, your experience may be considered more typical than you would like.

As I read these posts, it comes to my attention that Audi is 100% free everything for 50K miles no questions asked, and there is much more grayness with respect to VW's after 12K miles.

Sorry I can't tell you more about the warranty, but I certainly understand and empathize with the issue.

lolalay · November 2003

Hello -
I purchased a 1999 Passat Wagon (1.8T-Auto) in January. I haven't had any major problems with it (only an antifreeze leak). I'm moving to the mountains and am looking to gain more power through a chip upgrade because the wagon seems too heavy for the 1.8T in the mountains(at least for the tiptronic; I wanted a manual but couldn't find a used one). Does anybody have any advice regarding brand? I have looked at Audi Performance Chips and Neuspeed ones. Is there a possibility (even slight) of a chip ugrade damaging my engine? I need it to last for a long time.
Before I do the upgrade, I had also been considering selling my '99 and getting a good deal on a 2002 or '03 Passat Wagon GLS with a manual. Any idea what the payments could be? I need it less than $300/month.
Thank you for any pointers!

brozhnik · November 2003

Thanks, everyone--really helpful.

You've probably heard about all the "driver gear" you can get from VW. I wondered about the products for car care, emailed, and got these answers:
(1) VW's "Interior/Exterior Protectant" --it "contains Polydimethy Isiloxane, and Surfactant. It is excellent for rubber, plastic, and vinyl." Here's what my question is:so is this just Armor All? Or better or worse? Or no different? Should I just buy and use Armor all? (I couldnt' find out what its ingredients are.)

(2) I was wondered if "Rain Away" is just basically Rain-X. Here's all I could find out: "Rain Away contains Isopropyl and Alcohol. It is an easy and effective
way to improve visibility in wet weather conditions. After use, water beads
up and flows off the windshield with incredible ease." Question: I don't know what's in Rain-X, but is it just the same stuff?

(3) Then they have their own wax: " Polish & Wax contains Petroleum Distillates. It is clear coat safe and provides a long lasting shine and gloss. It is an easy one-step way to polish and wax your vehicle. It is formulated to give lasting protection and unsurpassed shine." So use this-- or buy Mother's, or Meguiar's, or Zymol?

It's not real costly, but it's costlier than the generic stuff. Not a big deal, but does anyone know anything I should know about these things? Thanks.

feilo · November 2003

Chipping the 1.8T is the best bang for the mod-$ in my book. Apart from the ones you mentioned, there's APR, Garrett International (GIAC) and Wetteraurer. I have the Wetteraurer chip for ~15K chipped miles on my 03 and its a joy to drive. There are Passat owners on ClubB5 that have been chipped for over 50K miles with no problems. Do a Google-serach and check them out.

markcincinnati · November 2003

Goto APR's website www.goapr.com and read up on the direct port programming option.

Essentially, the chip is modified without touching any hardware -- via the VW DP -- indeed you can even get a trial run at no charge and see if you think it is worthwhile.

The main gain will be torque -- I chipped my wife's 1.8T engine and the torque improvement was, to coin a phrase, awesome.

Damage to engine -- beats me; the debate on this issue seems rather mild. Yet, the debate on the impact on your warranty is quite lively. There are those who say no no no a million times no. And, there are those who say, the only risk is if it can be proved that the chip in some way damaged the components -- many folks chip and it seems to be a growing way to get extra bang for your buck.

I am certain that there are issues and I am certain that people have been burned and burned badly by VW because of the chip. At least with the APR option the visible signs of chipping are absent.

In my case, my dealer was chip friendly and I had the dealer do it for me. Some dealers, I have it on good authority, will actually sell the cars with the chip in it from day one.

Some dealers will take your first born if you even say the word "Dorito." Perhaps a little intelligence gathering on this issue would be prudent.

Drive it like you live.

On your last issue, deals deals deals, get your new VW only 11 dollars down and 11 dollars a months, if you don't have the 11 dollars we'll LOAN it to you, at Ralph's spoil sport motors just a mental block and a bridge right here at the tomb of the unregistered voter. Come one come all.

You might find a demo -- even a 2003 the way you want it and @ 48 months or less on the lease payment, be at your magic $300/per month nut.

Soooo come on down and see the brand new, slightly used Ferd Mustox.

No kidding -- the deals are so hot, you'd better bring your hot pads.

My buddy just found a new 2003 Bimmer, 18% off sticker, no upfront money, 39 months and low low payments -- deep unhealable discounts folks, get 'em while you can!

Er, it pays to shop -- and right now is the second best time to do so (February being the absolute best).

reidk · November 2003

If my Passat is only going to remain "loveable" while still under warranty, I'm glad it (the warranty, that is) runs for 10 years /100,000 miles!
Of course, this is only for the powertrain, although the manual suggests this has what SEEMS to be a reasonably liberal interpretation. The "bumper to bumper" warranty was for only a miserly 2 years. Do 'consumers' consider the new longer b-to-b warranty a fair exchange for the shorter powertrain coverage? (+ loss of 'free basic maintenance' during that 2-year b-to-b period.)

Was really hoping that the Passat would be popular enough to warrant a supply of after-market - and hence generally cheaper - replacement / maintenance parts. Does seem likely that sticking with dealer service & "VW" parts will get expensive as the miles roll up, but fortunately have not had to deal with that issue YET.

BTW, car is a '99 V6 5spd, just over 51,000 miles: am on 3rd set of tires (enjoy driving with elan), but am still running original brake pads and rotors with no problems or apparent loss of function - although the pads ARE getting close to needing replacement. Pure luck? Differences in how brakes are used? Or was '99 just a good year for Passat brakes?

vocus · November 2003

A show that runs on Public Television called MotorWeek (I am sure alot of you have seen/heard about it) did a report on used Passats today. MotorWeek said the Passat is the best kept secret in the midsize family car war even today, and it's design is one that's 5 years old. They also said VW sold 96,000 Passats in 2002, almost unheard of for a car with a 5 year old design.

They also said a 98 Passat could be had starting around $9500 for a 1.8t sedan all the way up to $30,000 for a nice 02 loaded W8 model. They added that a used 2002 can go for up to 25% less than it did when brand new, something to think about if you're on a budget.

markcincinnati · November 2003

5speeder · November 2003

I asked this question last winter but got no response: Has anyone had the STOP Brake Fault Warning light up on their dashboard? If yes, what was the problem and how was it fixed?

Last winter (when our '02 was 6 months old) we began to get this warning a couple times a month. As you'd pull over the warning would go away and the brakes worked just fine. I took it in to the dealer and they could find no codes indicating problems, nor any other thing wrong. They topped off the brake fluid reservoir (which really wasn't low) and sent me on my way. Didn't fix anything, and I soon came to regard the warning as the little boy who cried wolf and ignored it. By Spring the problem disappeared.

Then last month when the nightime temps dropped below 30 it started again, doing it at least once a day on my 6 mile commute to work. I took it back to the dealer on Friday and went through the same routine: no codes, no visible problems with brakes, top off the almost already full reservoir and off I went. The warning came on once on the way home.

It seems to be related to colder weather, and ONLY happens when I am making a right hand turn--this pattern never varies. It's really an annoying warning and causes me to have to do some fast talking with any passengers in the car who are convinced we are about to be killed when the chime goes off and the word STOP flashes in red letters!

Any ideas or thoughts?

sadatx · November 2003

Hi,

I just recently purchased an 03 GLX 4motion. Yesterday, while attempting to parallel park, I kinda came too close to the curb and scratched/scraped the front passengers alloy.

Are there any products out there that can help remedy this cosmetic issue?

Thanks.

vocus · November 2003

Nope. You have to have the wheel refinished or repaired, which is anywhere from $90-200. The dealer will charge you closer to the latter figure. Check with your dealer's body shop, they might be able to help you in that respect.

markcincinnati · November 2003

Yes there is a product that will cure this problem, it is called money -- and as noted you will need at least $100 and if the price is close enough to the cost of a new one, you may even go that route especially if you would consider making an insurance claim.

Been there, done that. Ouch!

altair4 · November 2003

Check the web...
http://www.wheelcollision.com/
amongst others. You can run on your spare and get your rim back, do an exchange (get a repaired rim and return yours as a "core"), or just buy a repaired rim outright (and hang onto yours). Dealer price of a new Wellington (15" OEM) is about $294 at my dealer. Don't ask why I know! :-<

Or check with your local or dealer body shop for local vendors.

brozhnik · November 2003

Just looking through my VW warranty materials, and noticed a "sales consultant checklist" and a "perfect delivery inspection checklist" and a "detailer inspection checklist." Nothing actually checked off on any of these. Was it supposed to have been (a) done and (b) checked off?

vocus · November 2003

Yes, and yes. It doesn't really matter though since you don't have any problems with the car. When I got my Jetta, it was on a Saturday but they still went down the checklist. They left half the blue tape stuff on the doorsills and trunk sill though, and didn't clean the car up that well.

brozhnik · November 2003

I notice that the Passat's 12-year rust perforation warranty doesn't cover "damage caused by airborne pollutants (e.g. acid rain), bird droppings, stones, floodwater, tree sap or other environmental concerns."
This sounds like it could exclude a lot. Does it not cover, to get to the big one, damage caused by salt?
Are there, in short, loopholes to worry about?

reidk · November 2003

How bad is the scrape & how tight is your budget?

Orig Equip alloy wheels on my '99 were painted silver (as were the 16" set I replaced them with): if the damage is not TOO bad, you might achieve a satisfactory "3 foot glance" cosmetic appearance with the judicious use of some sandpaper & a bit of touch up paint.
Obviously results won't be perfect, but from a Reasonable Distance it might pass muster.
(And, to paraphrase another post, "don't ask how I know...")

quan69 · November 2003

Could you elaborate on why February is the best time to buy?

arjay1 · November 2003

Along with many posters, I keep an Excel spreadsheet for all of my cars to accurately track gas mileage as well as one that tracks all operating costs.
I am just about to hit 55,000 miles on my 2000 Passat 1.8t with tip. My gas mileage is still increasing over time. My commute has not changed nor my driving habits. I have heard others mention that this engine continues to loosen up for up to 50,000 miles.
If anyone is interested, I can send the Excel file that shows the mileage going up and up. I am curious about when I will see it level off and then drop. I assume that the engine hits a point where age catches up and it gets less efficient due to wear. Am I correct?
Oh well, maybe it does not matter. Based on the earlier post on expensive repairs I guess I need to sell my Passat now before the money pit opens. I would argue that it is never less expensive per mile to lease a new car every 3 years compared to keeping one for 100,000 miles plus, well after the car payments have ended. With a lease payment of $300 a month you could afford a $900 repair every 3 months and still be even. I find it hard to believe that I will average $36000 in repairs each year now that my warranty is ended. That sounds more like the kind of argument I would try on my wife to justify getting a new car. By the way, she never bought it either.

sadatx · November 2003

Thanks to all who responded. The wheelcollision website looks promising. I'm trying to avoid going to my dealer but will do so to get the input. Hopefully, the repair cost will be reasonable

The scrape seems minor. It's about an inch wide and an inch long and its only on one spoke. I was hoping some touchup, sandpaper, etc would do the trick

Also, is it just me or are the stock (bulbs) headlights just weak? I thought the cause for the weak headlights was due to the outer headlights being turned off. However, I can't figure out how to turn on the outer headlights. The light knob is turned closkwise to activate the inner headlights and the interior lights, followed by pulling out the knob to activate the fog lights. However, the outer headlights remain off

Any tips on how to magically turn em on would be appreciated.

Thanks.

arjay1 · November 2003

By this, do you mean your "brights"?
If so, you switch the headlights to bright by pushing forward on the turn indicator. By forward, I mean away from the steering wheel or towards the dash.

markcincinnati · November 2003

. . .has been regarded as "the best month" to get a deal on a new car. Although this "truism" is perhaps less important currently than it has been historically, here are the reasons that February can still be the best month to acquire a new car.

And, to be even more specific, the best time to buy a new car is the last business day and the last business hour of the month of February.

Now the reasons for this are not too difficult to understand if you understand one simple economic truism -- when demand drops the market generally attempts to stimulate demand by decreasing the price of the product. As demand increases, all other things being equal, price rises.

OPEC has used this simple economic rule for years, if the price gets too low for oil, cut production -- since demand at a certain point will continue, the price will rise and there will be no push back due to price. At "X" the demand will begin to soften and then the price again drops to stimulate demand. The "law" of supply and demand.

OK, enough of that -- after "the major Christian and Jewish holidays" have passed and for much of populated America there is "winter" demand for new cars begins to wane. Customers feel less "flush" in February, the weather is not conducive to "she'll have fun fun fun when her daddy takes the T-Bird away. . ." -- in response to some softening of demand; a softening that has happened repeatedly to some degree for decades (during Jan and Feb) -- car mfgs and dealers often attempt to move some more iron by the simple expedient of cutting the retail price in some way, fashion or regard.

The best-buy at 4:59PM on February 28th legend has its roots in the cost of the unsold inventory that is "recognized" on the last day of the month. Trimming inventory on Feb 28th then is good biz.

You may or may not find that this historically accurate description is "dead on" to today's circumstances.

Generally speaking, however, the best deals on new cars can still be made on Feb 28th at closing time.

Everyone "knows" or at least thinks they know this timing issue when it comes to car buying. I do indeed believe there is some truth to this notion. I would, if my personal timing would permit, attempt to purchase in February and see if the "myth" is really as good as it is reported to be.

altair4 · November 2003

The exclusions you cite are in every rust warranty I've ever read from any automobile manufacturer. It's a perforation rust-through warranty. I've never known anyone to actually make a claim under this warranty...let alone a successful claim.

altair4 · November 2003

I thought the same thing about the headlights on our '03. They simply were aimed too low. A re-aiming at the 5,000 mile service made a big difference, and a little tweaking on my own with an allen wrench has them just right. Prior to the initial adjustment, I was easily outdriving the throw of the lights at legal interstate speeds. With the adjustments, I'm good to go now.

The projector headlights have a very sharp cutoff in the light cone. So slow and careful adjustments pay off.

lewisa1 · November 2003

My wife and I each have a Passat with the moonsoon radio option. Her 99 lost the AM band after 2 years and my 2001 gets static/noise on all but the most powerful station (WBZ) since last year. Has anyone else the problem and did it get resolved by the dealer? The dealer said the antenna connection was broken but I thought the antenna wa more important to the FM band! They would have to take apart the car to find the break.

Volkswagen Passat 2005 and earlier

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles