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Comments
Can I set up door getting locked when I put car in gear and door getting un-locked when I put car in Parking gear? If yes, how?
I have put my head lights in auto position, so they will switch on when its dark outside. My question is... if I unlock the doors using my key, the light flashes, the light inside the cars switches on, but not the head-light. Can I setup to switch on the headlights, when I unlock the doors using key? If yes, how?
thanks,
BG
The headlights might be a problem. Actually, it's not a good idea to have your headlights on BEFORE you start your car because this causes a severe drain on your battery. You might want to rethink this.
BG
Did you look at any other cars before making your Max purchase? Is so, what were they & can you give a brief description of your pros/cons to them?
I bought a Maxima '05 a week ago and love it. I looked at the new Avalon mostly. I took a look at the Chrysler 300 as well, but just a bit too big and I am partial to Japanese cars. I left a long message in the Avalon vs. Maxima forum today you might want to take a look at. Good luck.
One dealer I spoke with wanted an extra $150 more over the option price to install. Any suggestions? I would prefer not to kludge and use the existing system. If I need to kludge I can use my Roady 2 and pop the cassette adaptor in, but I am concerned that I will wear out the poor motor in the mechanism. The FM modulator approach with the Roady stinks, since I am in a major metro area with every FM frequency dead on competing with the designated frequency or so close that they "bleed" over each other.
Thanks
kirkster
I have a 2001 SE with 48,000 miles. I've only done oil / filter every 3000 miles, routine brake work and, thats about it. Going to start putting miles on it as I'm traveling a lot more for work now. Should I be getting ready to get a new serpentine belt, change auto trans fluid, brake fluid, etc?
Thanks for suggestions.
I have an 00 SE with ~143,xxx miles and everything still runs great.
The transmission probably should be flushed and refilled and the brake fluid change is a good idea also.
Agree with your comments on the Maxima so far with 300 miles on it.
There is a serpentine belt AND there is a timing chain. One has nothing to do with the other.
a smaller, regular belt that is for the power steering. I always change my belts and hoses at 60,000 miles.
I do a transmission flush and brake fluid change every 40,000 mi.
There is a timing chain ( no timing belt ). This should be good for 200,000 mi. Chains are better than belts. Not only do they last longer but they will usually start to " rattle " on start up which gives you advance warning that it should be replaced. Timing belts will break, usually with no warning and will usually do major damage to the engine, depending on the engine design.
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
My '00 Max idles smooth as silk. My '02 idles a little rough , although it is a bigger displacement engine.
A near-luxury " flagship " model should idle smooth, imo.
Its been enough of a problem that there is a service bulletin for the power seat. Sorry your seat quit in a bad spot- good luck getting it to the dealer.
And you can drop by our ongoing Technical Service Bulletins discussion to ask 0patience and alcan any questions you have, including asking them for the full text of any TSB.
Hope this helps.
I was thinking about getting the regular Brembo rotors... but saw the drilled brembo rotors for twice the price.... anyone have an opinion on these types of rotors?? are they overkill on a car like the maxima? thanks for the input...
I believe Brembo drilled and slotted rotors are a waste of money on a 5th. gen Maxima. What the car really needs is larger rotors, possibly 12-13 inch. Stock diameter is 11.5 inches. Dual piston calipers would also help.Of course now you are talking about completely re-engineering the brake system ( best left to a pro.) . Also I believe ( I may be wrong ), the drilled and slotted rotors cannot ever be turned and trued if needed in the future. They are basically a one time use item.
Btw, I fully expect the rotors to warp a third time ( why wouldn't they ), but by that time I hopefully will have sold the car.
frankly, i'm sick of my rotors warping every few thousand miles and paying for new brake jobs.. other than the rotors, my car has been flawless..
i found a site with detailed instructions on doing the brakes.....looks to be pretty easy doing the brakes on the max
from your comments... looks like i'll stick with the regular brembo rotors and not the drilled or slotted...
I do know from 20 yrs of owning Nissan's that their brake pads are very good. Good luck with your brake job and ESPECIALLY the Brembos ! Also, continued good luck with your 2k GLE. Looks like you got a good one. I'm envious
i would normally go to advance auto parts.. but their prices are a lil steep..
what is wrong with your max that you're so unhappy with it? i plan on keeping mine forever even after 4+ years of ownership.
Years ago , when people had a lot of trouble with a " made in Detroit" vehicle they would say they had bought a " Monday" or a " Friday " car because apparently alot of autoworkers would take those days off. Well, I guess this is afflicting Nissan's plants in Japan. I think 50% of the plant that made my car didn't show up for work that day.
I also have a '02 Maxima the wife drives ( only 20,000 mi. on it ). The cam and crank angle sensors were replaced under warranty on this vehicle. I don't park the '00 Max. near to the "02 Max. I don't want the '00 troubles to rub off onto the '02. But hey.... they are great cars when they are not in the shop !!
Roar, you had a seized LR caliper??? is that the driverside rear caliper? my dad told me that one time, he drove the max to the park which is 5minutes away...and that wheel/brake was alarmingly hot.... i wasn't sure what happened, so i've been keeping an eye on it... do you know if there's a TSB? what did you do.. bring it to the dealer?
isn't the maxima made in the US? i thought it was made in TN..and not in Japan.. at least for 2000+
Looks to me like SL is cheaper than an SE with leather? IS there much difference in the ride between the 2?
AT, btw.
Thanks!
made in U.S. I had a drivers rear caliper seize. One day after driving it in the rain, I noticed steam coming off of the alloy rim. Not good ! $140 for caliper installed by dealer. To my knowledge, no TSB's on calipers, of course there are TSB's on the rotors.
On the rotor TSB, Nissan states that the rotors should be turned ON the car with an on-the-car lathe for the ultimate in truing. Not many dealers have this machine.
I called all 5 dealers in my area and none of them had this lathe !!
ps: I'm getting about the same mileage as you. With 75% Hwy. driving I get ~24-25 mpg.
I believe the same is true for the 6th. gen. You will probably pay more for a " loaded " SE than you would an SL. The difference in ride is marginal depending on how sensitive your " butt" is. The SE a has slightly stiffer ride , again depending on how sensitive you are.
ps: if you want installation instructions, I believe you can purchase the factory manual ( CD format ) on ebay.
My 02 SE had this minor recall done at one of my services. It was early on like maybe 15k. I only have 43k on it now. Anyway, ever since that recall was done, my car has had these vibrations at idle. It's weird because with idle problems, the tachometer usually fluctuates, but my tach doesn't move. It's been a minor annoyance. I didn't bother to check what the recall was at the time, and they just did the recall with my regular maint.
ceasar
James
Also I believe Nissan's quality control has worsened in recent years because I hear a lot of people complain about fit and finish as well as rattles and squeaks. Heck, my 92 Max was perfect for more than 10 years. My neighbor's son bought it and he is very happy with it.
I installed the 3M clearmask to the hood, bumper , mirrors. headlights and fog lights. So far I am very happy with the clearmask. It's costs a little more than a vinyl mask. It ran me about $300 to have it installed but it is really worth it imo.
ps. Congrats on your '05 !!
This is not the kind of product to experiment with on a new Maxima.
I would start by asking several Nissan dealers who they use to install aftermarket products on their cars ( pin stripes, spoilers, etc. ). In particular, ask them WHO installs the" clearmask " film. Also, you can do a "google " search and possibly come up with some installers in your area.
I am extremely happy with this product, especially the film that goes over the headlights. The headlight film is twice as thick as the film for the paint.
I would also take a look at some cars that have the film already installed. This film is virtually 99.9% transparent but if you look hard you can see the film edge if you look for it. Some people think that the film line is objectionable, I don't. It's alot better than having a vinyl nose bra "flapping' around !!
p.s. Whoever you get to do the job, ask them how many cars they have done ?
The more, the better !!!!
I bought 4 new brembo oem rotors for about $56 each, we jacked the car up, put it on stands..and removed the wheels.. (only did the fronts for now) After 48k miles, those orig rotors looked rusty.. we proceeded to remove the caliper, which was held in place using 2 bolts requiring a 14mm socket.. that part of it wasn't that bad using a hand wrench.. it took a lil effort but got the bolts loose on one side.. the pain was the two bolts that held the bracket that the caliper sits on.. dont know the name of that part... that required a 19mm socket, but we broke the wrench in the process.. so we headed to sears and bought a air compressor with a air racket.. that was $350, but I split the cost of that with my cousin who does alot of work on his 3000gt.. we headed home to unbolt those 2 stubborn bolts.. as soon as we got those off, and removed the bracket... you could pull the rotors out without any effort... i put in the new rotor after cleaning them with rubbing alcohol, and then put the bracket back on... i've also noticed that the pads were almost brand new so those didn't need replacing... we opened up the hood, removed the cap to the brake fluid bottle and then we used a c clamp to push the piston that's on the caliper back into place.. and bolted the calipers back on.. after that, the wheel goes back on and we did the other side... after the wheels are on, replace the brake fluid cap and pump the brake petal a few times till the pressure builds back up in the system. now i just need to find some time to do the rear brakes... but i saved myself big time cash!