Several months ago I requested help in figuring out what the bumping sound I was get under the floor on the passenger side. Someone was kind enough to suggest it was the strut and he was right but I can't find that message on here. Well I did take it bck to the dealer in Roswell, Ga. and they said it was the rubber piece between the strut and body (bushing). As soon as I drove off the lot I notice that the noise was gone.I did cost me about $15. I just wanted everyone to know. This is a great forum for info. THANKS!
Hey, I just got a 01 Maxima GLE equipped with the Bose 7 speaker package. I am wondering if I can hook up a regular amp with Infiniti sub to the system. I have heard rumors about ohms or frequency being different. Does anyone know anything about this, or how to do it? Thanks
For the age of this car it's been running great! However....the check engine light in my '89 Maxima goes on and off intermittently (were talking like once every month or so). Also, VERY frequently (like 3 times per trip), the speedometer seems to stop working then start up again (I have been told this is probably a speed sensor, if anyone knows where that is located I would love to know so I can replace it). Anyway, on the infrequent occasions that the check engine light DOES go on, it coincides exactly with the speedometer not working. When the speedometer picks back up, the light goes off. I probably won't see it again for another month, but the speedometer problem is constant. What is up with that? If y'all have an answer, you are my heroes!
My son tells me his 2000 Maxima pulls left or right when braking. There is no rhyme or reason about when this might happen and in what direction this might happen. Dealer checked it out after thinking semi-frozen calipers and said no, it was not that.
I am looking to buy a 2k Max SE. This will be first Nissan after years of Mazdas and Toyotas. Its got 69K. What kind of problem should I be looking for in near futher with this kind of mileage? What type of maintenance should have been done during 60K service?
Have never owned a Maxima before, interested in buying one. New to this forum. I have flexibility in terms of buying an '05 now or waiting 'till the Fall to buy an '06. Plan to keep for many years. Any suggestions on pros and cons of possibly waiting for the '06? If I knew there'd be no or minor changes, I'd buy now.
Most common problems are quirky stereos, O2 sensors, brakes/rotors, sometimes trannys and especially common is bad COILS. If you can afford to go up to a 2002 the power differences are extremely noticeable, like night and day in the automatic, and the trannys were beefed up.
Not sure on changes between 05 and 06, but from reading a lot, and being a current Nissan owner, I'd almost lean towards an 05 Avalon or TL instead. And that's coming from a Nissan fan. I just think the quality has slipped a bit in the last few years. Most would agree, even the diehards. Although there are still positives on the new Maxis.
guess what folks... my 2000 maxima's driverside rear brakes (caliper) siezed up again while i was driving from NY to CT.... the reason i noticed it was because as i was driving on the highway, i noticed that my brake pressure was really really low, on certain braking attempts, the brake petal would go almost all the way to the floor when trying to brake..... now that's scary during bumper to bumper traffic..
i pulled over to check the brake fluids which was fine...but noticed that the entire rear driverside was HOT... the wheel was hot to the touch... while the other 3 wheels were cool to the touch... i called Geico for a tow truck but in the mean time, i pumped the petal a few more times, and it seemed like the pressure was okay again.... i decided to take it slow and drove off.... i took a few stops to make sure it wasn't overheating... and paid attention to my brake petal.. which seemed to work again... and my wheel returned to normal temp... my next step is to completely change the rear caliper... if you have a 2000 or 2001, i would pay attention to the brakes..seems like its the one weak point on this car... brakes are scary when it doesn't work right................
Not to rub it in, but my 1995 Maxima SE with 153,000 miles has only needed new front brake pads twice, new rear pads once. The rotors have never been ground or replaced. I have heard numerous reports of peristent problems for 2000+ Maximas.
Coincidentally, the 4th generation Maxima (1995-1999) was the last made in Japan. Although my 1995 certainly doesn't have the bells and whistles of my 2004 TL, I think its build quality is nearly as good. Which is to say two rungs up from the current Maxima.
I am a "diehard" 1995 Maxima fan. But after owning a 2002 Honda S2000, 2004 Acura TL and 2005 Acura MDX, I don't think I'll return to the Nissan (or Infiniti) camp. Relatively speaking, I think Nissan/Infiniti have slipped in quality. They are still far superior to anything made in the US, but I would have put the quality of my 1995 up against anything comparable in the world, including the old TL, Accord, Camry, Avalon, etc.
I have a 2001 GLE with 47000 miles. Still original brakes, rotors, calipers, etc. I had a similar problem with what you describe on a Subaru, and it was never right; kept having recurring brake problems including calipers. I finally got rid of it.
'14 Buick Encore Convenience '17 Chevy Volt Premiere
I have a 04 max, i went in for an oil change and tire rotation and was told i needed 4 new tires. They showed me the cracks on all 4 on the inner side walls. I am furious right now and bought the car brand new last May of 04. There are 27k on the car right now, they are going to call goodyear for me but they aren't reassuring about any credits towards new tires. Do you have any ideas?
That happened to me with a Subaru at about the same mileage, and generally you're out of luck. Tire warranties are different from vehicle warranty. They may give you a credit toward replacing the same brand tire, but would you want another of the same kind of tire, given the premature wear? I just replaced the four tires with better ones and went on. Seems like OEM tires are often lousy; I don't think it's particular to Nissan.
'14 Buick Encore Convenience '17 Chevy Volt Premiere
For all you wondering about purchasing an 05 Max they are great automobiles and I highly recommend them. Just recently, I bought two of them, one for the wife and one for me. They have both been super, no problems, other than a blown Bose speaker in mine, which the dealer found and replaced at delivery. I can't find one thing wrong with either one of these cars and I've looked and looked. No squeaks, no rattles, no buzzing, no nothing. Can't even find a part that's misaligned and believe me I've looked. Maybe I just got two good ones, but some how I just think that Nissan is building the 05's with better quality than the 04's which was the first year for this generation Max. I'm extremely happy with both of these and if I needed another car, I'd buy another one.
SL versus SE debate. I bought two SE's. I like the "rougher ride" and stiffer handling of the SE versus the softer setup in the SL. Drive both cars, there really is a difference in ride and some road noise. SL tires are 55's with 17 inch rims and the SE's are 45's with 18 inch rims. As for me, I liked the SE over the SL, to each their own they say. Also, I hate fake woodgrain, like the brushed metal look of the SE better and the little lip spoiler at the back.
Anyone have a good guess? I have a 99 Max with 95k. I just failed Ma emissions testing with three error codes. I looked the code descriptions up and wondering if anyone might have an idea of what I might be looking at. I knew I might have a problem before with my service engine soon light coming on. p0450 - EVAP system pressure sensor or circute failure p1444 EVAP canister purge volume control valve or circuit fault p1446 - EVAP canister vent control valve closed. Thanks
I have a 2004 Nissan Maxima SE and I have been experiencing the same problems you had. Whenever I go over a bump on the right side of the car, there is a constant banging sound. I brought it into the dealership and they told me it was the front right side strut that needed replacing, which they did replace. But my car has been driving even worse ever since. Now whenever I go over a bump, the whole dashboard shakes and the steering wheel feels like it pulling away from me. After reading your message, I'm wondering if the rubber piece on my car needs replacing as well. Do you think that is my problem as well? Thanks for taking the time to read this. I could really use your help.
There is a known strut problem on some of the 2004 models. Take your car back to the dealership and have them properly fix it this time. They should know what to do as Nissan has issued a TSB on this problem.
I just bought a 2001 Maxima GLE with 40,000 milers on it and the rear brakes started sticking and groaning after about a month. I had to have the rear calipers and pads replaced for $600. Not a happy experience, but I love my Maxima. It drives like a dream and I love having a real engine after owning an Altima for eleven years.
The GLE comes with the standard speaker package, which is just ok. Does anybody know of a speaker upgrade package for the 01 Max?
Gidday guys I have a pickle my 91 Nissan Maxima J30. I love her but i'm having trouble with body kits, here is the deal I have found a body kit that fits a 95 Nissan maxima A32 I'm wondering how different the 95 A32 is to my 91 J30 as fare as shape are they totaly different in shape or are they pritty close.
If they are pritty close I can buy the kit and get it fitted and extra fibre glass added to it to fit snug but if the two models are totaly different then I'm back to square one. So if anyone could send me photos of their 95, pictures of the front back and side or give me an idea that would be great. Also engine upgrades (I want to install a turbo or in general give her more grunt) the guy localy in my home town said I would have to replace the entire motor and tansmission. Does anyone else out there say other wise or point me in the right direction.. or is he right in whitch case dame!! thanks hope to here from fellow Maxima lovers soon
I have a 1995 Maxima SE. Unfortunately, it now resides at our second home, so I can't post pictures. However, sitting next to a neighbors former 1992 Maxima, it sure didn't look "pritty close" to the same body. The 1995 was a total redesign from the prior generation, both mechanically and relative to the interior/exterior design.
As far as giving it more grunt, perhaps you should try to find a 1995+ to trade up to. Mine (with 153,000 miles) would have only been worth about $4,500 on a trade in, which is why we decided to keep it. It looks very good and runs like new. It "only" had 190 horsepower, but thanks to 205 ft lbs of torque and a relatively light 3,000 lb curb weight, it is nearly as quick as my 2004 Acura TL 6-speed with 270 horsepower (and 3,450 lbs).
from memory.... a J30 is totally different from a maxima in the body shape... the J30's got a weird back end of the car... unless i'm thinking something different.. it won't work with the body kit...
bingman, 600 bucks to replace the rear caliper on your 2001 max? holy smokes! did you get both sides replaced? with 2 new calipers and new pads?? labor must cost alot.... i just bought a new caliper the other day and plan on installing it with new pads on both sides one of these weekends....
Not so lucky here. I found cracks on the inside of 3 out of 4 Goodyear RSA,s 245 45 18. This is on a Maxima with 15K. The dealer went to an unauthorized Goodyear wholesaler and somehow came up with a 62% proration rthat would have costed me $490! I called Goodyear customer service and got it knocked down to 25% to the tune of $195.
I'm about to sell my '96 Maxima that has A32 ( engine/model) in vin number. How do I figure out what model ( GXE/GLE/SE) it is? It has everything except heated seats and heated mirrors. Other wise it's loaded....spoiler, leather, bose, sunroof. It has white gauges. Thanks
White gauges only came with SE. Other distinctive SE features include body colored door handles and front grill trim (no chrome), and a certain style of alloy wheels. Also the spoiler is standard on the SE, so there would be no center high mounted stop light, or the goofy looking cover that sometimes replaces the light if an aftermarket spoiler is installed.
looks like it's an SE. Thanks allot for the info. Now at least I now how to price the sale. It's mint with only 65k miles, it should go pretty quick. thanks again !
how much are you pricing your max at? i'd def say 65k miles for a maxima is low.. we have a friend who has a 95 maxima with 250k on it... its still running good
Posted on 05/03/05 my actual price paid and buying experience, thought I'd add why I thought the 2005 Maxima SL (with sunroof, VDC, DPP, SIRIUS radio, floor/trunk mats & splash guards) was the best choice for ME. I stress that as, of course, anyone's choice depends on their own key criteria, as well as subjective evaluations.
First off, I was replacing a '97 Dodge Intrepid. And my key decision criteria in '05 was not disimilar from '97. As a 48 year-old family man with two (now teenage) sons, and someone who purchases cars and plans to keep for many years, I decided I still wanted and needed a family sedan and valued most (not in any particular order): Reliability and safety (VDC important), family size (rear seat room, trunk), looks / sportiness, and initial cost ($30K or under). The Maxima met all these criteria and more. I didn't choose the following cars because of the following reasons:
TOYOTA AVALON: Even more back seat room than the Maxima and as reliable, but didn't like looks, drives like a livingroom, is marketed as basically "an old(er) man's car," and cost thousands more comparably equipped.
ACURA TL: Colleague at work bought one in February, have driven in it a number of times since. Great car. But Consumer Reports (CR) lists reliability as only average (Maxima is very good, a shade under excellent), TL more expensive, smaller back seat and trunk, back seat doesn't fold down.
VOLKSWAGEN PASSAT: Average reliability at BEST. Whole Volkswagen line not good reliability per CR. Otherwise, I thought an excellent car from a feature / function standpoint. But fairly bland looks.
NISSAN ALTIMA: Reliability average. No VDC. Didn't like looks as much as Maxima. But was less expensive with many similar traits, i.e. rear seat room.
TOYOTA CAMRY: Excellent reliability and car, size of rear seat and trunk, comporable cost, maybe even a bit less. But find the looks very bland, just simply did not want the car so many others on the road drive.
HONDA ACCORD: Similar to Camry analysis above, although no VDC option and reliability above average, not excellent. A bit sportier handling and looks than the Camry, but still neither as good as the Maxima. No heated outside mirrors, smaller trunk as well.
Did for a short time look at some small SUV's, but decided another family sedan was best for me. However, if I had bought one, the Honda CRV would have been my clear-cut choice over the Ford Escape, Subaru Forester or Toyota RAV-4, based mostly on excellent reliability, much bigger back seat (leg room) than anything else (even mid-size SUV's), great feature in that the rear seats recline up to 45 degrees, cargo space, transmission, gas mileage and VDC.
One last item: I bought my Maxima in Spirited Bronze with Cafe Latte (camel) leather interior. Love the bronze / pewter color to begin with, let alone its uniqueness. Liked this exterior / interior color comibination better than any available in the six other cars listed above.
To each his own, but hope others find this helpful!
I am trying to decide between '05 Avalon Ltd., Pilot w/Navi and Max w/Navi. Can anyone give me a heads up about how the Nissan Navi system is good, bad or indifferent? I have read that the motor is strong and the A/T just OK. I am hoping the coil pack troubles and other gremlins have been straightened out. Thanks in advance! It seems that this weekend may be a good time to purchase......
hi bingman in reference to your speacker package it dosent really matter if there is a package dont do it... i recommend go to your local car udio dealer and see what they have also here is a guide line on OZ dollars for car audio systems $500 to $1500 low quality to average audio system $1500 to $2000 average to high quality/borderline comatition quality $2001 to $3000 start entering you car in low end sound compatitions. ect the music gets louder and better.
with this money at any level you should be able to buy 3 way 6*9's for the back, 16cm 3way with splits for the front, a verying quality cd player head unit, one to two amps too power the sucker, and one to two subs to give the bass.. my idea make sure you shop around
I have a 2001 Maxima SE with about 39k miles on it. Everything has been good so far until a few days ago when I left for a vacation and when I come back after a month, the moment I hit the brakes, I get a pulsating feeling, the steering wheel is all shaking up so I take it to the dealer and he says, I need to get my rotors resurfaced and replace the brake pads. I dont want to resurface the rotors and instead replace them and the pads - what should I be buying? (both rotors and pads) - I am a novice so pardon me if this looks like a lame question.
papafred, Did you ever get a complete answer for this question? Do you still want to know, or have you sold the car? If you still want to know, post the first 10 digits of your VIN. I have a 96 Max factory service manual with a chart that shows what VIN digits indicate what model the car is.
Comments
I just got a 01 Maxima GLE equipped with the Bose 7 speaker package. I am wondering if I can hook up a regular amp with Infiniti sub to the system. I have heard rumors about ohms or frequency being different. Does anyone know anything about this, or how to do it?
Thanks
Thanks in advance,
Todd In Folsom CA
Any ideas????
Thanks,
Ash
i pulled over to check the brake fluids which was fine...but noticed that the entire rear driverside was HOT... the wheel was hot to the touch... while the other 3 wheels were cool to the touch... i called Geico for a tow truck but in the mean time, i pumped the petal a few more times, and it seemed like the pressure was okay again.... i decided to take it slow and drove off.... i took a few stops to make sure it wasn't overheating... and paid attention to my brake petal.. which seemed to work again... and my wheel returned to normal temp... my next step is to completely change the rear caliper... if you have a 2000 or 2001, i would pay attention to the brakes..seems like its the one weak point on this car... brakes are scary when it doesn't work right................
Other than that and a bad O2 sensor, the car has been fine.
Coincidentally, the 4th generation Maxima (1995-1999) was the last made in Japan. Although my 1995 certainly doesn't have the bells and whistles of my 2004 TL, I think its build quality is nearly as good. Which is to say two rungs up from the current Maxima.
I am a "diehard" 1995 Maxima fan. But after owning a 2002 Honda S2000, 2004 Acura TL and 2005 Acura MDX, I don't think I'll return to the Nissan (or Infiniti) camp. Relatively speaking, I think Nissan/Infiniti have slipped in quality. They are still far superior to anything made in the US, but I would have put the quality of my 1995 up against anything comparable in the world, including the old TL, Accord, Camry, Avalon, etc.
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
I'm considering the purchase of a new Maxima and had some questions for present owners:
1. How does the ride of the SE compare to the SL? Is the SE much firmer?
2. Does the car develop any annoying rattles or buzzes in the cabin after a few thousand miles?
3. How would you compare the quality of the Bose audio system to other high end audio systems in competing cars such as the Acura TL?
4. How would you rate the Navigation system? How does it compare to systems from other automotive manufacturers, such as Acura?
5. What has been your experience with dealer service quality?
6. Are you overall satisfied with your Maxima and would you buy it again?
Thanks very much.
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
SL versus SE debate. I bought two SE's. I like the "rougher ride" and stiffer handling of the SE versus the softer setup in the SL. Drive both cars, there really is a difference in ride and some road noise. SL tires are 55's with 17 inch rims and the SE's are 45's with 18 inch rims. As for me, I liked the SE over the SL, to each their own they say. Also, I hate fake woodgrain, like the brushed metal look of the SE better and the little lip spoiler at the back.
I have a 99 Max with 95k. I just failed Ma emissions testing with three error codes. I looked the code descriptions up and wondering if anyone might have an idea of what I might be looking at. I knew I might have a problem before with my service engine soon light coming on.
p0450 - EVAP system pressure sensor or circute failure
p1444 EVAP canister purge volume control valve or circuit fault
p1446 - EVAP canister vent control valve closed.
Thanks
email me.. i got the installation procedures for you.. email address is my username on here... and add @gmail.com
The GLE comes with the standard speaker package, which is just ok. Does anybody know of a speaker upgrade package for the 01 Max?
Thanks....
If they are pritty close I can buy the kit and get it fitted and extra fibre glass added to it to fit snug but if the two models are totaly different then I'm back to square one.
So if anyone could send me photos of their 95, pictures of the front back and side or give me an idea that would be great.
Also engine upgrades (I want to install a turbo or in general give her more grunt) the guy localy in my home town said I would have to replace the entire motor and tansmission. Does anyone else out there say other wise or point me in the right direction.. or is he right in whitch case dame!! thanks hope to here from fellow Maxima lovers soon
As far as giving it more grunt, perhaps you should try to find a 1995+ to trade up to. Mine (with 153,000 miles) would have only been worth about $4,500 on a trade in, which is why we decided to keep it. It looks very good and runs like new. It "only" had 190 horsepower, but thanks to 205 ft lbs of torque and a relatively light 3,000 lb curb weight, it is nearly as quick as my 2004 Acura TL 6-speed with 270 horsepower (and 3,450 lbs).
Good luck.
bingman,
600 bucks to replace the rear caliper on your 2001 max? holy smokes! did you get both sides replaced? with 2 new calipers and new pads?? labor must cost alot.... i just bought a new caliper the other day and plan on installing it with new pads on both sides one of these weekends....
they are SOLID cars..but have crampped rear seating...
I always thought they looked good though..like many Jags are something...
Meanwhile, someone might come along who knows from what you've said here.
ECU/PCM Computer injection motor
Factory #: A18-A45E97 (2Z08) Model: EB
Nissan Part #: 23710-97E10 (according to VIN)
My car is a 24 valve Maxima from 1994. (VE engine)
If anybody could tell me where to get this, how much, etc....it would be greatly appreciated.
First off, I was replacing a '97 Dodge Intrepid. And my key decision criteria in '05 was not disimilar from '97. As a 48 year-old family man with two (now teenage) sons, and someone who purchases cars and plans to keep for many years, I decided I still wanted and needed a family sedan and valued most (not in any particular order): Reliability and safety (VDC important), family size (rear seat room, trunk), looks / sportiness, and initial cost ($30K or under). The Maxima met all these criteria and more. I didn't choose the following cars because of the following reasons:
TOYOTA AVALON: Even more back seat room than the Maxima and as reliable, but didn't like looks, drives like a livingroom, is marketed as basically "an old(er) man's car," and cost thousands more comparably equipped.
ACURA TL: Colleague at work bought one in February, have driven in it a number of times since. Great car. But Consumer Reports (CR) lists reliability as only average (Maxima is very good, a shade under excellent), TL more expensive, smaller back seat and trunk, back seat doesn't fold down.
VOLKSWAGEN PASSAT: Average reliability at BEST. Whole Volkswagen line not good reliability per CR. Otherwise, I thought an excellent car from a feature / function standpoint. But fairly bland looks.
NISSAN ALTIMA: Reliability average. No VDC. Didn't like looks as much as Maxima. But was less expensive with many similar traits, i.e. rear seat room.
TOYOTA CAMRY: Excellent reliability and car, size of rear seat and trunk, comporable cost, maybe even a bit less. But find the looks very bland, just simply did not want the car so many others on the road drive.
HONDA ACCORD: Similar to Camry analysis above, although no VDC option and reliability above average, not excellent. A bit sportier handling and looks than the Camry, but still neither as good as the Maxima. No heated outside mirrors, smaller trunk as well.
Did for a short time look at some small SUV's, but decided another family sedan was best for me. However, if I had bought one, the Honda CRV would have been my clear-cut choice over the Ford Escape, Subaru Forester or Toyota RAV-4, based mostly on excellent reliability, much bigger back seat (leg room) than anything else (even mid-size SUV's), great feature in that the rear seats recline up to 45 degrees, cargo space, transmission, gas mileage and VDC.
One last item: I bought my Maxima in Spirited Bronze with Cafe Latte (camel) leather interior. Love the bronze / pewter color to begin with, let alone its uniqueness. Liked this exterior / interior color comibination better than any available in the six other cars listed above.
To each his own, but hope others find this helpful!
with this money at any level you should be able to buy 3 way 6*9's for the back, 16cm 3way with splits for the front, a verying quality cd player head unit, one to two amps too power the sucker, and one to two subs to give the bass.. my idea make sure you shop around
JA
I have a 2001 Maxima SE with about 39k miles on it. Everything has been good so far until a few days ago when I left for a vacation and when I come back after a month, the moment I hit the brakes, I get a pulsating feeling, the steering wheel is all shaking up so I take it to the dealer and he says, I need to get my rotors resurfaced and replace the brake pads. I dont want to resurface the rotors and instead replace them and the pads - what should I be buying? (both rotors and pads) - I am a novice so pardon me if this looks like a lame question.
Thanks