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If that doesn't solve the problem, and you believe it is a faulty key fob, try finding a new one on eBay. My son bought a used Century and it only came with only one, so I got him another from there. Came with battery and programming instructions. Prices vary. Sometimes you'll see one with a starting bid at $.99 plus shipping, others for upwards of $30 + s/h. I think I won a bid at $14 + s/h. Be sure to ask the seller before bidding what the GM part number is on the back so you can compare to yours. Also before bidding, you can view "Completed Listings" to see what others have been paying. If you need help with reprogramming the key fob, I've got the instructions somewhere.
Otherwise, if you think the fob is okay, then it must be something more serious in the car itself and definitely out of my league.
My warranty is for 36mo/50k miles on parts and labor.
A commemt to the Host, why was my postings deleted on "transmission problems"?
Thats not to bad. My display on my '99 Regal LS went out about 3 weeks after buying it in April of '04.
The a/c routing will randomly move to the windshield and then also randomly back to the frontal vents.
Before tearing the dash apart I decided to check the vacuum.
The manual says check it at the throttle body but didn't say what it should be. I thought it might be less than normal since the supercharger may have some effect. I checked and it has 10.5 lbs of vacuum ??? Any help would be appreciated. Ed
What kind of questions should I ask? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!!
Could you feel a boost even though the indicator read 0.0?
My wifes 2000 Regal w/supercharger has not had premium since it hit 3.50/gal. Te be honest I can not tell that much difference. The car has 84.5K miles.
I drove a 2000 GS about a year ago, and this car drove nothing like that one did - so I would say that I could not feel the boost at all.
I wanted to ask about the gas because used car dealerships are cheap enough to put in regular gas instead of premium on a car they are trying to sell. Thanks for ruling that out!
Are there any specific questions I should ask their service department? (they are a Buick dealership)
So ive always wondered, how much faster is a GS? I love the big 3.8L engine, the 0-30 time is real quick, gets off the line fast. But after that it makes some loud noises and loses steam real fast. @ about 126k, i estimate my 0-60 to be in the upper 7's ... this is just a estimation. IIRC, the GS has 240hp ... and more torque? I believe my LS has 200/220 [hp/tq] ... which is pretty tame for this car.
let me know, THANKS!!
Inasfar as your '98 making loud noises and losing steam, perhaps it is time to check things like plugs, wires, pc valve, fuel filter, fluids and other routine maintenance items if you haven't already done so.
Thanks in Advance
Bob
Is the blower motor blowing? Is air coming out the defrost vents (default when no vacuum or control is available)?
Is it an automatic digital temperature control unit? I'm familiar with H body (leSabre/PAve) operation up to 99 and have a 2003 but haven't worked on it--just read lots of posts from others.
First thought? Who replaced the alternator? A shop or yourself? Could they ahve done something?
Are both heater hoses hot when the blower has been on high with air going over the heater core. If one hose is cooler that means the flow through heater core is low. You also could have air in heater core from low coolant level.
Give some details.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
First I was told it was the alternator and had it changed, then I was told it was misaligned pulleys and had them fixed, then I was told it was the ball bearings, etc etc. Each time I fixed whatever I was told, finally I told them to change the fan belts again and I still have the noise. Now they tell me its normal. I had the car 4 years without the noise so I know its not normal. but its only when the car has sat overnight and lasts only a few minutes. The car has 22k miles, I've just bought a three year extended warrenty so I can bring it back to the shop, but is it worthwhile. Does anyone have a similar problem or might know what is going on.
Thanks
David
There will be a violet line coming into the programmer box-that is the vacuum from the engine compartment. Be sure you have adequate vacuum there. Somewhere under the hood is a tank the size of a larger tomato juice can, maybe plastic, that stores the vacuum from the motor. If you are going up a long hill with steady, heavy acceleration the engine vacuum drops. My 98 leSabre will lose vacuum after 5-10 seconds and change occasionally under high acceleration in 4th lockup on a long hill where I merge onto I70. If I'm in 3rd the vacuum doesn't dissipate because the motor is running faster and maintaining the vacuum.
If you decide it is your nipples in the connect, removing the connector, if it will come apart easily without tearing the soft plastics, will be difficult to reverse. Installation will require silicon caulk to reseal--according to reports. Easier is to remove the programmer box. Two screws. One large electrical connector to pull apart and one tiny one on top that connects to an electric motor that controls a blend door. Yours may not have the little connector. And one metal link sticking out of the porgrammer that snaps into a plastic connector that pulls a door inside the heater box.
Open the programmer box, a couple of snaps on one side. Then write down the color of the tube inside going to the color tube outside the connector. Cut the connector off both sides. I used 1/8 inch gas line rubber hose (courtesy local NAPA store). About 8 inches cut into 1.5 inch pieces. A little water on the vacuum line and it slides right into the gas hose sealing. Same on other end.
I'm looking for some pictures I'll try to post here. But first you need to determine if your lose of vacuum is a result of high load, low engine speed or a cracked plastic tank storing vacuum, or a bad hose carrying the vacuum rotted at an end or cracked letting air in reducing your vacuum.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
When I took off the belt it was the tensioner pulley. It could be any of the bearings in the belt's path. But that' still a likely suspect-water pump? Someone has to take the belt off and play with the pulleys--maybe when they're cold.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
The thermostat could be the problem. Might be sticking open. It would keep water cooler and that would be a cause of not enough heat; but that also could be an air bubble. One thing to do would be when the engine is thoroughly warmed up, or as warm as it gets, rev the motor to 2500-3000 for a few seconds a few times. If you have an uphill place to park that makes it easier for air bubbles to be forced back to the radiator. This is the procedure for my 98 leSabre when refilling the system with coolant so I'm suggesting it for your case.
But draining a little coolant and checking the thermostat or just replacing with a quality GM or Stant would be a good thing to do.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Did those of you owning an earlier iteration of the GS and then getting a newer one notice any improvements in build quality (or drop-off's)? Any rattles or shakes you didn't notice on the earlier versions?
My 1998 has 162,xxx miles and I'm thinking about searching for a low-mileage 2004 if possible. I've really liked the 98 and, from what I hear about the fuel economy on a Lacrosse, am not looking to jump into the 3.6 version of it.
Sigh...wish they'd not killed the SC-based engines (save the Pontiac GTP I know).
IMO, the best year for the car was 2000 of the 1997.5 - 2004 model years. I say that not because I once owned a 2000 GS. But because it was the year that not only were all the bugs in the car fixed from the previous 2 years (i.e. cruise control issues, a/c problems) but it was as well equipped a car you can buy for the dollar (as far as Regals go).
In 2001 they started making some of he previous years' standard features optional and then in 2002-2004, they had some funky interior colors and seats that I think caused a voluntary recall due to quality concerns (poor craftsmanship with the Abboud seats). I think there was also a TSB regarding the 2002 exhaust system as Buick went with a different design that created heat build-up in the system.
Still, if it was 2000 all over again, it was the best and most luxurious car for the money in the sub $30K category.
What the 2000 has that was deleted from 2004?
1. Performance shift mode: a button on shifter and + a light on the instrument panel that tells computer to switch gears more aggressive.
2. Strut tower brace.
3. Lights on gear shifter telling the current position (D,R,N,O,etc). 2004 have the info on the instrument panel only, a bit inconvenient.
4. Driver side auto dimming mirror. 2004 have rear view auto dimming mirror, but not the side one. Less comfortable to drive in night time on highways, especially when not in the left lane.
5. Heated mirrors. 2004 is less safe in snow or when the side mirrors fogs.
6. A big bin/seat arm in the middle of the rear seat.
7. 2000 power steering was variable: very easy to turn on slow speeds, e.g. when parking in tight places, but usual at higher speeds. 2004 power steering is OK, but not variable and it is not so easy to parking in downtown or other tight place.
8. Few small things like coin holder in the central bin, passenger side door lock, a few exposed screws...
What was not deleted, but feels different?
1. 2000 GS have softer seats, with a layer of a soft "sponge" under the leather about twice as thick as 2004. I guess that GM saved $2 or so on it... For longer trips the 2000 seats are much more comfortable. The seats looks the same, however; you can feel it only by "the lower back".
2. The gears are shifting somewhat different: 2004 is a bit more aggressive that 2000 in standard mode (but less aggressive that in performance mode).
3. The radio (head units) are different. 2004 radio is more modern: it can show some info about artists, etc, if the station sends it, CD does not skip on bumps, etc. On the other hand, I like more the sound from older radio, even with 6 speakers vs. 8 ones: the new sound is a bit "sterile". Also, the new radio have a red light that blinks nonstop when the engine is off, as a protection from thieves. Never heard about a thieve who would stole a stock radio from Buick.
4. The 2004 engine uses 5W-30 oil; the 2000 uses 10W-30 in summer and 5W-30 in winter. Also, oil change was extended from 7,500 miles to 10,000( or 12K miles?) for ideal driving conditions, with smaller but substantial real increase according to oil monitor.
5. 2004 GS have the OnStar gizmo that lets GM to monitor remotely where you go and listen how you talking with your wife in the car. It is not an option. However, the block is not really integrated yet in the car: I removed it easily, the car does not drive worse without it, and does not complain (no blinks, no lights).
6. The rubber air intake dam under the engine was moved back somewhat: with 2000 GS it scraps sidewalks sometimes. The rear wheel well liners also were improved.
Overall, I like 2000 much more, especially for its comfortable seats and heated mirrors.
Of all things, why would they delete a strut tower brace...can they? I didn't think a STB is an optional piece of equipment.
I've sat in a 2004, not driven it, and thought my hind end was picking up on a stiffer, thinner seat. Glad (yet sad) to know I was right and not having a bad butt day, lol.
Sad also to see how much fiddling they did with the Regal over those years. No small wonder they drove it into the history books. I have a few mechanical issues with my 98, the most pressing of which is a whine from the area of either the alternator or SC. I believe it to be the alt, but am crossing my fingers. The whine isn't connected to the SC and really does sounds like it is coming str8 from the alternator. I have a mechanic buddy who I drove by twice this week to let him hear and, of course, it would not do its 'trick' for him.
The tranny shifts a bit hard into overdrive and I'm going to have that looked at by another guy I know. Nothing against the Buick service shop but they are short on feel and long on "can we replace that for ya today?". I'd like to get a pro's feel for if the shifting is normal aging or signaling a future problem.
If it passes these hurdles, I may consider "B-52-ing" it and holding it a while longer. Just like the Air Force keeps those old bombers in the air, I usually do that with my cars (on the ground though). I kept a 1984 LeSabre for 15 yrs and 261,000 miles. The electronics had finally failed to an unacceptable $degree$ was why I finally gave her up.
My 39 yr old back prefers a softer seat while my 39 yr old foot likes a snap of torque now and then. The seats on the 04, if they are after a few miles what they felt like after 2 minutes, would be torture on me I think. I may hold on to this car until it's time to think about the Lucerne (if I stay within Buick). My gf is pressuring me all the time to buy a Camry - like the one she owns. She has more than a few problems with it but I'll leave that for the Toyota threads.
Thanks for the replies.
May be an ATF overfill? I had a similar problem, especially pronounced in hot summer days. After checking the ATF level turned to be a whole inch above the maximum line, and foaming a little. I siphoned out some of the ATF (it is still a bit above the line, 1/4 inch or so). Now the transmission shifts again as a new. The car accelerates better, coasts much longer on idle, and burns about 20-25% less gas.
It was overfilled for 2.5 - 3 years. I failed to check the ATF level after flushing it at a dealership. It was dumb, but the dealership usually is very good, and it is hard for me to find a level place: definitely could not do it at home nor at work. My wife drove the car for most of the period, and she is less sensitive to such things.
Fortunately, a synthetic Mobil 1 ATF was put into the transmission, that did not deteriorate after a couple of years of light foaming.
Now about the seats: The 2004 seats still are good, but 2000 ones were much better.
Something my tranny has done since I bought the car is have a hard time shifting into overdrive in colder weather (under 25 degree F). The fluid has to warm a bit before it'll bend to my will. That has remained constant no matter if the fluid is old or new or the filters have just been changed or not.
Not wanting to run afoul of the moderators, but was the Regal the only Buick de-contented as it approached its final run? I never heard that about the PA or LeS, but you never know until you ask.
I read it in mid 1980-ths, in the fourths edition of textbook by Philip Kotler. I lived then in the Soviet Union, but was interested in American economics.
The Century is another example of Buick's decontenting. I believe in 2003 the previously standard antilock brakes were made optional. That was a biggy.
I'm aware of what you mean in an overall general sense, but was directing my comments a bit more laser-like to like what the last poster gave an example of with the brakes.
What can I say...I'm a big fan of cars that give you smallish V-6 hwy gas mileage yet make available a small V-8 when you need it, ala the SuperCharged Regal, Park Avenue, Impala SS (pre V-8 version) and Pontiac GT/GTP.
Nothing against the new 3.6 engine, but I don't read the same things about it for mileage...change the mileage and it changes how you feel about the image of the car itself.
Anyone had this problem? what could it be?
Thanks,
David
With the motor off, touch the lower part of the pulley for water pump on the inside and see if you get any wetness. Look for little plastic tubes that come from the intake manifold out to connect to rubber hoses that go to the heaters. Those also can start to seep because they were put in with o-rings or they crack. There are numerous designs and I'm familiar with LeSabres version of the 3800.
You don't mention number of miles on the car but a waterpump at 10 years could be what you have. You've just got to locate it. If you can see it drip onto the pavement you may need to crawl under far enough to look up to try to see the water path.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I read a couple of comments on the RegalGS website about spilling sodas in the not-waterproof boot around the console shift lever and the problems that caused.
With what I figured was nothing to lose, I grabbed my miracle can of WD-40, removed the cap on the console that covers the shift release and sprayed a healthy amount into the hole. About 7 months of bliss until a very ugly snow day with lots of slush when I again couldn't get the key out. Sprayed it again with the miracle oil and no more problems.
Hope this helps someone.