My Buick dealership provides free oil change for life to the original buyers of new cars. So long, so good. However, you need to make appointment for the service, the dealership is open in business time only, and changing oil takes about 2 hours. I'd rather pay."
Like I said, my dealership is just a 15 minute drive away from home and I don't need to ever make an appointment for an oil change (Never have in 2 years of going there). Further they are a GMGoodwrench Plus service facility and have the pledge of performing the oil change in 30 minutes or it is free. I have never had a problem in this regard either.
Anyway, since I don't have to pay for my oil changes and tire rotations on this car, hey no loss there either.
My Smartcare contract can be used in any GM dealership nationwide, so it is not of exclusive use of my local dealer.
Having to always make an appointment for an oil change and on top of that wait 2 hours for it truly sucks. Is this common in your area?
Teo: My Chevy dealership isn't far away. I believe it is 30 minutes or free as well, not to worry I am retired now (51) and I don't keep a schedule, I can kick around the dealers for a half hour check out the new Chevys and drink their free coffee.
I believe the total cost of these 12 oil changes and warranty offer (at cost) is worth around ($700-800) that made me a satisfied customer, but I do know my friend Bill and I wouldn't have received this if we were not persistant, and polite!!
>>Having to always make an appointment for an oil change and on top of that wait 2 hours for it truly sucks. Is this common in your area? <<<
I'd say it's common in most areas. You're one of the lucky ones. I think that's why se;ect dealers are starting to offer the 30 minute oil change. They've been losing to much business to the Jiffy Lubes of the world.
I agree it sucks. Maybe its common because too many of us let it happen. But if enough customers voiced their concerns (politely) that waiting 2 hours is unacceptable maybe they would address the issue. I would not normally go the dealers anyway for oil changes, they are usually more expensive and always find something wrong that has to be repaired thats not covered by warranty. In our area many dealer customers drop their cars off and are free shuttled to work then picked up and returned. Actually changing your own oil in the Impala isn't hard, there are no grease fittings to lube, just the oil and filter.
Until I could handle the thought of buying an imperfect car for nearly $30,000 I didn't buy one. Now that I realize there will be problems I can handle it. I try to partner with the dealer as much as I can to find a reasonable solution, then escalate if needed. Works pretty well.
If anyone gets beefed up over warranty problems (whether they're excusable or not), I might suggest the approach I've taken for years: buy a well maintained and clean car at 100,000 miles for 1/4 of the new price, set aside the rest for maintenance, and there you have nice cheap clean reliable transportation. Someone else has taken all the depreciation and fixed all the initial problems too. What a deal!
Only reason I got my Impala was because I liked the car so much I couldn't wait 5 years to buy a used one. And what a pleasure it has been.
I moved to US only 6 years ago, bought a very old car at first, and had the first-hand experience with only two dealerships, the Buick and Chevrolet.
Need appointment for oil change at both.
Oil change takes about 30 minutes at Chevrolet, rather a bit less than more, if I have no other problems with the Malibu. Cost about $25, or $12 with my own oil and filter. About 11 to 12 miles from my home. Roughly 25 minutes of a dense traffic - suburban, but more like a city. Open Saturday.
Changed oil only twice at Buick. The first time at took about 1.5 hours, the second - 2 hours. Free service, including labor, oil and filter, but I prefer to bring my synthetic. About 2-3 miles from my new home, from the old one was 1 mile. Business time only.
The first time they washed the car after oil change. For free. I did not asked, and they did not told. Then it was their "policy" - to was cars with any service. The car was washed couple days before. Of all things, a "Nor'estern" snowstorm was developing that morning.
I was late to an important meeting at work in result. Fortunately, it was cancelled due to the snowstorm.
The second time they put their own filter instead of the Pure One I brought, and overfilled oil. This is why it took 2 hours: they would cope in 1.5 hours, if not the other 0.5 hours they needed to replace the wrong filter and to drain excessive oil.
Usually I am changing oil at Firestone. No appointment needed. If there is an empty bay, it takes about 25 minutes. If everything is filled, you can wait for long time. Or leave the car and go shopping: the Firestone shop is in the very middle of several big shopping plazas. Open through weekend, but rather busy. Mails coupons monthly for $12-$16 oil change. However, the coupon is not valid if you bring your own oil / filter, and service only costs $18. About 2.5 miles from my new home, used to be less than 0.5 mile.
A friend got "Forever" battery for 1976 Chevy Nova in 1979. Month later battery would not start Nova. Firestone said alternator and voltage regulator worn out and tried to sell new alternator and voltage regulator. Friend drove away and took Nova to Chevy dealer saying month old battery would not start Nova. Chevy dealer checked and tightened fan belt saying nothing wrong with alternator or voltage regulator. No more problem. Friend thinks Firestone left fan belt loose to sell more parts. Dealers always give best service although charge higher cost.
In my limited experience, it depends on dealer. Some are excellent, other very bad. The same with Firestone, all depends on shop. In big shops it often depends even on service adviser, mechanic, etc.
To my understanding, the Firestone shops, or most of them, are independently owned, operating under licence. The same with Buick dealers, Ford dealers, Shell, CITGO, and other gas stations, McDonnald and Burger King junk food and a lot of other businesses.
However, you have a good memory. Do I understand right, that nobody tried to defraud you nor your friends since 1979?
Today my Impala is 1 year old. It's build date was Feb '01. It is a 2001 base 3.8L - Sandrift in colour. I have approx. 48500km on it and still love my car. I have had only a few things wrong with it - a front right outer tie rod, a nagging vibration, and the brakes. After having the rotors turned twice, I finally had all 4 rotors replaced 2 weeks ago around 47k. This also may have cured my vibration problem as I haven't noticed it since the service. The vibration started last year before the winter started and before I had winters put on - Goodyear Ultra Grip Ice - which by the way are fantastic and quieter than the GA's at speed.
The things I like about the car are its comfort, roominess and ride, mileage, auto lights, parade lighting, responsiveness, decent quietness, no external antenna, solid feel, large trunk, big side mirrors, and that I can seat 6. I find the ignition in the dash very intuitive; in fact, when I drive other vehicles, I end up poking the dash with my key (I know mostly because I'm used to it but I never tried putting the key in the column on the Impala).
The things I don't like are warping brake rotors, trunk lighting - too dim, can't put 143mL bottles properly in the cup holders, the rear cup holders in the armrest are a joke, the aux power outlet is in the ashtray assembly, no power seat memory setting, useless visor extensions, can't turn off the headlights when in park unless I re/start the car with the parking brake on, and the interior lighting is not very bright for the front seating area. This is due to the lights being in the mirror and when the mirror is adjusted to provide the fullest view out the front, the lights aim toward the dash. The back is much better. Also, my interior is neutral so there is not much light loss as in the other interior colours.
Things I'd like to see in newer models would be - power seat memory, lit rear door switches - they lit the front including the wheel, why not the back, better cupholders - front and back, a slightly larger glovebox, a 115vac accessory outlet, and bring back the Regal Blue colour from the '00 model year.
Overall, if I were to go back, I would still get this car. It has been very reliable and despite the past vibration, I still enjoy driving the car and it is a great value.
<< the rear cup holders in the armrest are a joke>
Hey, I like those cup holders!! I use them as a trash bin. LOL
I've been very fortunate so far. No major problem except for the slight engine hestitation when going 10-15mph. It happens once in a blue moon. Since having the PCM software upgrade, I think it fixed it.
I still love my IMpala very much. In fact, I've been recommending it to everyone that has asked me about my Impala. However, the styling is starting to wear me out. It makes me feel old driving this car. LOL I'm a yuppy type of guy that wants something sleeker and faster. I think the G35 coupe is perfect for me.
Two years ago, a neighbor got used Voyager from car repair place after car repair shop owner said no problems with vehicle. Three months later they took Voyager to repair facility before going on long trip. Cost over $1000 to fix everything. Her husband was very mad and told repair shop owner a car should not need $1000 repairs just 3 months after purchase. Said he could never go there again and neither will friends.
I should ask you this, since you are an Impala owner: Did Chevy actually sell the Lumina alongside the new Impala in 2000? The Lumi appears on Kelley Blue Book's site in the '00 listings, and I swear I saw a couple of '00 Luminas for sale on my local Chevy lot two years ago. And I recall that they did not offer LS or LTZ models that year, just a decontented base model. According to a source I read, they only sold about 40k units that year, compared with like 170k Impalas.
One more thing: The new Impalas I have test-driven in the past were light-years apart from the early '90s Caprices I drove a while back. The Impala was swell compared to a Caprice, which felt mushy and soggy.
Ref- Post# 8469 <<Turning warped rotors will create uneven thickness in the disc, making them even more susceptible to warping in the future. Imagine a warped LP record, and shaving the A and B sides in order to create a smooth, unwarped surface. You will end up with alternating thin and thick sections.>>
I respectfully disagree with this statement and I want to give my opinion on this issue. My '01 LS has "Hollow", or ribbed, Cast rotors. If these were solid castings, and you machine the rotor for %100 clean-up on each side, then you would wind up with, in fact, a true even thickness all the way around. But since these are hollow "Castings", or "Forgings", then the initial problem lies with the casting's consistancy back to the machined surfaces. If the "First cut" (Spindle Bore) is not perpendicular to the un-machined area of the rotor, then you will never be able to machine the pad area and have the same thickness back to the un-machined, rib area. The two pad surfaces will be parallel, but the wall thickness will be inconsistant in the inside vented area.
The manufacturing process for rotors is to first, Machine the bearing race, or spindle bore. You then locate from that bore to machine the pad surfaces. I surmise that these rotors were not accurately bored in the first stage, causing the "Fin", or "Rib" cast area to be "Wobbling" during the pad surface machining operation. This would result in a variation of thickness that can never be corrected.
IMHO, I could take a correctly machined set of rotors and totally remove one lug nut off of each wheel, and not see warpage. ie; The "torque" explaination is a snow job. What else could it be? I've seen enough posts here from people who know what they're doing to validate that. GM is trying to compare this to a head gasket. In a head gasket, you have combustion that is trying to escape. The two surfaces must seal completely. I think that cold water on a hot rotor is much more likely to warp a rotor than incorrect torque.
This is all just my opinion coming from 30 yrs as a machinist.
I have the bench seat with armrest console and it is premoulded so no liner like I am assuming on Impalas with a centre console. The design is in a number 8 pattern cutout at an angle. The driver's cupholder is toward the front left of the armrest and the passenger's is toward the back right with an arm console bin behind that. The problem is halfway down the cupholder, they have put a step all the way around so that prevents the larger bottles from sitting all the way down. No problem for Tim Horton coffee cups of all sizes but when I want a Nestea or juice, the bottle won't sit flat - maybe about 3cm or so off the bottom.
Gee, I'm gone for a few days, and things break down, and it appears we switched to a Lexus board for awhile! ;-)
I have a 2000 (IMPALA) base model w/3.8l engine. I've had to have my front rotors turned once, but I had problems with them PRIOR TO EVER HAVING THE TIRES ROTATED, thus IMHO I think the whole torque thing is bogus - No one ever had my wheels off, so if overtorquing was an issue, it was done at the factory.
Before I rotated my own tires, I bought a click-type torque wrench, so as to avoid problems in the future. However, I suspect sometime in the not-too-distant future, I'll be replacing my factory rotors with a stronger aftermarket version.
Had front brake service done yesterday. The dealer turned the rotors & replaced pads. Pad Kit: $55 Labor: $94.95 Total: $153.52 I thought about aftermarket rotors but haven't decided how long I'll own this car. No complaints, just want something sportier. Ordered front speakers finally from Soundhabit.com. (I popped the front right one w/ the aftermarket amp that was installed. I had the old amp part # & it sucked.) Model I chose was MB Quart QM218.03CX for $160. I guess they're a previous year's model b/c I can't find stats on these. The new QM218.61Q can't be found for under $450. I'll find out what the frequency response difference between the 2 are when the box comes in the mail. My power window isn't acting up as much anymore. (It didn't work at all when we had snow last week-weird.) Its probably a loose or dirty contact b/c down is okay but up it jerks & you have to push it a certain way. The power window switch is an assembly that would be replaced entirely. Also my A/C intake switch sticks. Thinking debris is the culprit, a can of air was tested to blow it out, but that didn't work. Maybe WD-40? I love my Impala but will resume buying Japanese again after this. Every domestic car I get has bugs, lots of minor ones anyway. I admit my Acura had issues too, but they didn't start until it was 10 years old. :-D
To impalad and others who think Japanese auto products are superior and more reliable in every way than American cars - get real. It is also impossible to believe that any car had no "issues" until it was 10 years old.
Read the posts about Nissan Altimas or Acuras in these townhall forums. It's very enlightening. They have their share of problems.
FROM one of the ACURA boards, this recent post: -------------------------------------------------- "Here is the record for my [ACURA] 2002TL:
It has had the following recurring problems that are factory-related defects confirmed by Acura Service Department: 1. Popping and rattling noise in rear of the car/ Factory-related defects (10/17/2001) Problem was not fixed 2. Popping and rattling noise in rear of the car/ Factory-related defects of back glass/ back glass molding (11/13/2001-11/14/2001) Problem was not fixed 3. Popping and rattling noise in rear of the car/ Factory-related defects of back glass/ back glass molding and Factory-related defects of a rear vents (11/16/2001-12/04/2001) Problem was not fixed 4. Popping and rattling noise in rear of the car/ Factory-related defects (12/07/2001) Service invoice was not provided. Problem was not fixed 5. Popping and rattling noise in rear of the car/Factory-related defects (01/29/02)" ------------------------------------------------------ And that's only the tip of the iceberg.
These two are from an NISSAN Altima board: --------------------------- #108 of 110 1999 Altima SE by nickm2 Feb 26, 2002 (02:05 pm) When I first start my car after its been sitting around for a while, I hear a sound that sounds like a chain being dragged across concrete whenever I step on the gas. It goes away after 5 minutes or so, and the sound's not loud, but its new, so I'm concerned. Anyone ever hear of this?
#109 of 110 Something Weird..... by shemz Feb 27, 2002 (05:10 am) This morning on my way to my university, the car did something weird and crazy, the RPM started to go up and down like crazy, then the car wouldnt accelerate and was shaking, it was very weird, then after i pressed the gas pedal a little harder it went back to normal...?? I remember i read this same incident that happened to one of us here..any advice would be helpful.. by the way The check engine light turned off..... " --------------------------------- Also, just take a look at the oldest cars on the road - what are they? Notice that the Japanese steel - especially on Nissans and Hondas appear to rust out a lot sooner and more widely spread than their American counterparts.
Read any forum on any car and you'll find problems, regardless of make.
I don't know why so many keep referring that Hondas and Toyotas are Japanese. My understanding is that Most Hondas built for the US market, are built by you Americans with American Steel and American components. I have an Impala but I try not to be biased. I look at the facts. The facts are my Impala as well as yours is a Canadian car made with mostly Canadian steel and components. (so the head office is in the US who cares) Mine has a Buick engine not a Chevrolet. Therefore I believe the US Hondas are more American then the yours and my Impala.
The facts again are: so called Japanese cars are the top sellers year after year, most don't even have fleet sales and they don't offer police packages that help Impala boost its numbers. Can all of you Americans that buy Honda Accord and Toyota Camray year after year be wrong?
Some of you look at your Impala like a religion. Its a car nothing else.
Again I have an Impala. What do I care if they sell 200,000 or 2,000 cars a year. Who cares? I have driven Chevys all my life. Not because I think they are better but because they satisfy my needs. I know there are better built cars out there. You would be a fool or extremely narrow minded if you thought otherwise.
Sure the Hondas, Toyotas Mazdas have there own problems, but when hundreds of thousands of you Americans keep buying these cars there must be something to it!!. These companies learned from the mistakes that the US auto manufactures made in the 70's and 80's. and capitilized on it. One thing for sure. When you take a Honda or Toyota to the dealers for service or repairs, they look after you, a lot better then GM Ford or Chrysler. Don't tell me that Motor Trend, Car & Driver, Road & Track are biased against the American cars. They honestly believe that the so called Japaese cars are better. Each one tells you that. What would be there reason to lie. Chevrolet spends millions of dollars advertising in these magazines year after year.
You can't compare a 2002 Cavalier to a Toyota Corolla (no contest) you can't compare a Malibu to a Honda Accord. Apples and oranges.
According to Toyota's OWN internal studies, service after the sale is a weak point for all the Japanese brands, except in the luxury lines like Lexus, INfiniti, etc.
I have NO idea where you got the idea that import dealers treat service customers better. It is not supported by the overall evidence even an iota.
Those who get Lexus and Infiniti (and Cadillac) levels of service pay for it, both upfront and at the service cashier. You get what you pay for.
The Impala I currently own is far more reliable than any Japanese car I ever owned, and I have owned several.
That all being said, my next car will be another Impala LS, a 2003 Crown Vic Sport or Grand Marquis or Mercury Marauder, or maybe even a 4 cylinder Camry!
Toyota Camrys are made in Kentucky. Honda Accords are made in Ohio. I did not mention either brand in my #8530 post.
I consider my Impala basically a Canadian - made car because that is where it was assembled. ( Read the stats and it is apparent that NAFTA has caused the loss of many American manufacturing jobs - especially in the auto industry. But I digress...)
BTW, I've driven a Corolla on rental and it stunk. Noisy, uncomfortable, poorly made and cheap, cheap, cheap.
On the other hand, my wife's car is a 98 Camry - which we like very much - but the Corolla was in no way comparable even though they are both "Toyotas". I also rented a small Pontiac Sunbird? or whatever another time and although it was markedly superior to the Corolla it was still not something I would ever buy.
Don't know if Hondas have fleet sales but Toyota Camrys most certainly DO. I rented a 99 Camry at HERTZ in LAX airport in September 99. With less than 10,000 miles on it, it was already showing many signs of wear. It did not even feel or drive like the same car as our own Camry. The emergency brake barely worked and since we were headed to hilly San Francisco and then all the way up the coast to Seattle, we exchanged it for a Chevy Lumina south of S.F. No problems with the Lumina although it did have a wide turning radius for its size.
As far as Honda and Toyota as police cars - they simply couldn't cut it.
RWD is less problematic and the Ford Crown Vic is still the police favorite as it is for taxi cabs.
RWD Chevy Caprices were also popular for police and cabs through 1996.
FWD Impalas are now being tried as police cars in some areas and time will tell if they are up to the challenge of heavy duty use .
If Camrys have fleet cars then I stand to be corrected.
As I said before. I have bee driving Chevys for 31 years. I have had my share of problems, with the cars and the dealerships. Some are good some are not. Because I drive an Impala shouldn't stop me from expressing an unbiased view of others. 1965 Impala was #1 in sales in the USA. They have a long way to go today to repeat those numbers.
The so called Japanese cars get my attention a lot more in their commercials then the Impala does. They play up beat music and usually show the cars in a racy or beach scene. There is one Impala commercial that has the man buying one saying my father had an Impala, thats not bad but they hardly show the car. The latest Impala commerical showing the 80 year old maytag repair man in an Impala. Is that ever inspiring?
Corvette just won GTS class last night at Sebring for the first time. You would think Chevrolet would capitalize on that and get some good commercials going showing the reliability and sportieness with bragging rights for this car. But they wont!!. The current Monte Carlo commerical where they use that cartoon character taz is so outdated. This commerical has been running for three years and they still use the 2000 Monte Carlo in it.
Hopefully Lutz or someone at Chevrolet will bring the division out the dark ages. Maybe better exposure in lively commercials will bring sales closer to #1 or 2.
I would love to see a Carmine red loaded Impala LS in a tv commerical cruzzzzing with 60's Impalas up and down Woodward avenue in Detroit. But they won't. ZOOM ZOOM ZOOM !!
You say "I think Most here have fears about the future reliability of their Impalas" When you say MOST how many people and who on this board are you referring to? Reliability: Didn't you have a 2000 Impala with so many reliability problems that you had to get them to give you a new one. Whom!!!!!!
Yes reccommended. But not ever car of the year. Why? Check the column for the Impala where they compare it to the other makes in its class and its not even near the top where they use the line graph. My Impala is a car that I am happy with but its not a "Religion" like you seem to think yours its (thank God) Its my transportation.
Your usual rudeness seems to be your own "Religion".
A Car is an inanimate object and thankfully, I have my life priorities in order, including my faith.
Before September 2001, the Impala was still selling very well with no incentives or heavy rebates. Check sales stats since 1999 before you arrive at the wrong conclusions.
If your car is giving you brief or you think it will be, get rid of it, life is not worth wasting grieving over a car.
After spending nearly 12 years driving Perfect Japanese transportation appliances,I had it with them. If my next car is not a Monaro/Commodore (GTO) it willlikely be German iron in the realm of a BMW 3 series, etc..
Funny that you mentioned about the trunk light not being very bright. My sister's 2001 Impala base (Build date 6/2001) has a very, very bright trunk light. Really nice. My own trunk light (Impala LS build date 4/2001) is not nearly as bright as the one on her car. I suspect that by 5/2001 or 6/2001 they made this small change to the bulb rating. (There is no TSB for the trunk light bulb, however).
If in order to improve the trunk illumination only involves replacing the existing bulb with a brighter one (Higher watt rating), then I'll ask my Service Manager to replace it on my next oil change stop. I am sure this can be done under warranty.
Another thing that I noticed this weekend is that her Stereo CD sound quality is not as Boomy as my own stereo CD. She has the same trunk AMP so I suspect also that cars built after 5/2001 or 6/2001 already have the "Too much bass" TSB applied.
I am going to get these two minor fine tune details taken care of next month.
Ouch, I think I could do without the big Impala logo on the side. That's a pretty mean drop. Not being in the know about this type of stuff, what do you mean by airbags? Are these air adjustable shocks instead of hydraulics? Where did the body kit come from? Doesn't look like the Razzi one.
ARE YOU SERIOUS? You are not going to ask for a .35 cent bulb under warranty? Just change it yourself, your car has rundown protection and it shuts off in 10 minutes anyway..I know,I know, afraid a bigger bulb might melt something... while your at it, if illumination is so important in the trunk, ask your service director why they forgot to put a light under the hood of a now $26-$27,000 car with any wattage bulb? Never could figure that one out....
Routine 30,000km (18,750miles) service, plus the ISS lube and replace the burnt out trunk light.
Steering clunk appears to be completely gone. Long term will tell the tale.
It will be interesting to see if there is any difference in the level of lighting in the trunk with the new bulb. I agree it didn't seem very bright before (except when I bumped against the assembly and knocked it out - it's really bright when you look directly at the bulb!). I'll do a subjective test tonight to see if it appears any brighter. Brad
Don't you all have the 1000 watt "brighter than the sun" handheld spotlight in your trunk? Much better than any underhood unit and really lights up every nook and cranny in your trunk.
I got one as a Christmas gift from my brother and I still can't figure out what I am going to do with it. Maybe shine it in the eyes of the morons with the arctic-white headlight/foglights perfectly aimed to blind drivers ahead of them.
I don't think any underhood light is going to be really effective. I keep a Maglite in the passenger compartment and the Porta-Sun in the trunk. Not to mention, if I am out in an area where there isn't enough light to see by, chances are I won't be working under the hood.
I was chatting with the guy that owns that Custom Orange Impala and he said that he put on a Razzi kit, but left the rear part of it off. (thats the only part I like) Anyway, I guess by airbags he means that his car is riding on air instead of using hydraulics he can release and add air with some kind of a joystick in the car (he's got a built in compressor in the trunch also, made by Blow Jacks) I also saw a picture of the interior, and this guy has 4 or 5 displays a DVD player and some other cool audio toys in there. I personally like the car, but not the color on it. I would have gone with black. And as far as the drop goes, I would think its impossible to turn while the car is all the way dropped.
Got the 24k mile service on my 2001 LS today, which inculded an oil change, chassis lube, flush out and clean the power steering and pinion rack assembly, they also suggested that I should have the fuel filter changed now and not wait for the 30K Service. Well changing out the fuel filter made a huge difference. My car is more responsive now, and it picks up and hauls [non-permissible content removed], when stepped on.
I guess I'm gonna be losing my impala for a week. I told the service rep to look into a slight sound coming from the RPM indicator (kinda like a grinding noise barely heard) They're gonna have to ship out the whole instrument cluster to get repaired at a different location. (they wont replace it for some reason) Anyone have that noise? I'll probably take it in sometime next month, they said they'll put me in an Enterprise Rental while they got my car. I might rent the Altima and compare.
I changed my Fuel Filter and immediatly noticed the difference, until a few days ago when I bought some of the "Regaine" sp? sorry mediumfry..made by Gumout Fuel System cleaner, I have 26,000 miles and never once added any kind of additive, so I figured since I put on a new filter I might try it, well put the 16oz in before I filled up the tank, a few miles later I could not believe the throttle response, it shifts on time now, and even downshifts on hill where I usually had to push the accelerator down a bit, just 2 days ago I took apart the console and lubed everything and tightened all the screws i could find, even the front speakers benefited from a quarter turn, now all of the squeaks are gone and I feel like i have a new car again, the "Regaine" was well worth the $7 it cost in addition to the filter. If your car feels better now, try some fuel "system" cleaner,(not the Fuel Injector only stuff) it really works, just do not abuse the stuff..ha ha ...Regaine not Rogaine.. Don
Hate to break it to you, but you were agreeing with me when you said, "The two pad surfaces will be parallel, but the wall thickness will be inconsistant in the inside vented area.", not disagreeing. I also agree with you 100% about the lug nut torgueing issue. It's entirely over-rated as a cause of disc warpage.
My dad's '89 Silverado has an underhood light which is detachable; has some amount of small wire that spools up in the thing, that allows you to move it around to the back of the vehicle (I presume to change a tire or something). Probably not a bad idea in theory, but nothing like stumbling around in the dark with 20' of wire tangled around (not to mention the pain of having to spool it back up when you're done).
Yesterday was the first day I'd really driven my Impala in about a week (spent most of last week driving at 15-passenger Dodge van to Houston and back). You really don't appreciate what you've got until you're forced to drive a beast like that Dodge around; makes getting back into the Impala a true blessing. I'm approaching 35K miles, and except for the ISS (which has been replced), the only rattles I've encountered come from things stored in the map pockets and such.
Probably the only things I'm disappointed about on the car is the sound quality of the stereo and the flimsy cup holders; both of which were dealt with on the 2001 models (mine's a 2000). Nice little touches like the illuminated cruise control buttons don't stand out until you try to drive a strange vehicle at night, and you realize how nicely thought out the Impala really is. Read the Consumers Report car issue while at the dentist this morning; they speak favorably of the Impala, especially in terms of reliability and safety.
Whew. That red monstracity a few posts back was horrendous. I don't know what was more ridiculous looking, the 20" wheels or the huge leaping impala on the side. It could use a vanity license plate, "TSTLESS".
Comments
My Buick dealership provides free oil change for life to the original buyers of new cars. So long, so good. However, you need to make appointment for the service, the dealership is open in business time only, and changing oil takes about 2 hours. I'd rather pay."
Like I said, my dealership is just a 15 minute drive away from home and I don't need to ever make an appointment for an oil change (Never have in 2 years of going there). Further they are a GMGoodwrench Plus service facility and have the pledge of performing the oil change in 30 minutes or it is free. I have never had a problem in this regard either.
Anyway, since I don't have to pay for my oil changes and tire rotations on this car, hey no loss there either.
My Smartcare contract can be used in any GM dealership nationwide, so it is not of exclusive use of my local dealer.
Having to always make an appointment for an oil change and on top of that wait 2 hours for it truly sucks. Is this common in your area?
I believe the total cost of these 12 oil changes and warranty offer (at cost) is worth around ($700-800) that made me a satisfied customer, but I do know my friend Bill and I wouldn't have received this if we were not persistant, and polite!!
I'd say it's common in most areas. You're one of the lucky ones. I think that's why se;ect dealers are starting to offer the 30 minute oil change. They've been losing to much business to the Jiffy Lubes of the world.
What I mean, is that a bad execution can spoil any good idea. Quality of dealership service varies tremendously.
If anyone gets beefed up over warranty problems (whether they're excusable or not), I might suggest the approach I've taken for years: buy a well maintained and clean car at 100,000 miles for 1/4 of the new price, set aside the rest for maintenance, and there you have nice cheap clean reliable transportation. Someone else has taken all the depreciation and fixed all the initial problems too. What a deal!
Only reason I got my Impala was because I liked the car so much I couldn't wait 5 years to buy a used one. And what a pleasure it has been.
Need appointment for oil change at both.
Oil change takes about 30 minutes at Chevrolet, rather a bit less than more, if I have no other problems with the Malibu. Cost about $25, or $12 with my own oil and filter. About 11 to 12 miles from my home. Roughly 25 minutes of a dense traffic - suburban, but more like a city. Open Saturday.
Changed oil only twice at Buick. The first time at took about 1.5 hours, the second - 2 hours. Free service, including labor, oil and filter, but I prefer to bring my synthetic. About 2-3 miles from my new home, from the old one was 1 mile. Business time only.
The first time they washed the car after oil change. For free. I did not asked, and they did not told. Then it was their "policy" - to was cars with any service. The car was washed couple days before. Of all things, a "Nor'estern" snowstorm was developing that morning.
I was late to an important meeting at work in result. Fortunately, it was cancelled due to the snowstorm.
The second time they put their own filter instead of the Pure One I brought, and overfilled oil. This is why it took 2 hours: they would cope in 1.5 hours, if not the other 0.5 hours they needed to replace the wrong filter and to drain excessive oil.
Usually I am changing oil at Firestone. No appointment needed. If there is an empty bay, it takes about 25 minutes. If everything is filled, you can wait for long time. Or leave the car and go shopping: the Firestone shop is in the very middle of several big shopping plazas. Open through weekend, but rather busy. Mails coupons monthly for $12-$16 oil change. However, the coupon is not valid if you bring your own oil / filter, and service only costs $18. About 2.5 miles from my new home, used to be less than 0.5 mile.
Friend drove away and took Nova to Chevy dealer saying month old battery would not start Nova. Chevy dealer checked and tightened fan belt saying nothing wrong with alternator or voltage regulator. No more problem. Friend thinks Firestone left fan belt loose to sell more parts. Dealers always give best service although charge higher cost.
To my understanding, the Firestone shops, or most of them, are independently owned, operating under licence. The same with Buick dealers, Ford dealers, Shell, CITGO, and other gas stations, McDonnald and Burger King junk food and a lot of other businesses.
However, you have a good memory. Do I understand right, that nobody tried to defraud you nor your friends since 1979?
The things I like about the car are its comfort, roominess and ride, mileage, auto lights, parade lighting, responsiveness, decent quietness, no external antenna, solid feel, large trunk, big side mirrors, and that I can seat 6. I find the ignition in the dash very intuitive; in fact, when I drive other vehicles, I end up poking the dash with my key (I know mostly because I'm used to it but I never tried putting the key in the column on the Impala).
The things I don't like are warping brake rotors, trunk lighting - too dim, can't put 143mL bottles properly in the cup holders, the rear cup holders in the armrest are a joke, the aux power outlet is in the ashtray assembly, no power seat memory setting, useless visor extensions, can't turn off the headlights when in park unless I re/start the car with the parking brake on, and the interior lighting is not very bright for the front seating area. This is due to the lights being in the mirror and when the mirror is adjusted to provide the fullest view out the front, the lights aim toward the dash. The back is much better. Also, my interior is neutral so there is not much light loss as in the other interior colours.
Things I'd like to see in newer models would be - power seat memory, lit rear door switches - they lit the front including the wheel, why not the back, better cupholders - front and back, a slightly larger glovebox, a 115vac accessory outlet, and bring back the Regal Blue colour from the '00 model year.
Overall, if I were to go back, I would still get this car. It has been very reliable and despite the past vibration, I still enjoy driving the car and it is a great value.
Hey, I like those cup holders!! I use them as a trash bin. LOL
I've been very fortunate so far. No major problem except for the slight engine hestitation when going 10-15mph. It happens once in a blue moon. Since having the PCM software upgrade, I think it fixed it.
I still love my IMpala very much. In fact, I've been recommending it to everyone that has asked me about my Impala. However, the styling is starting to wear me out. It makes me feel old driving this car. LOL I'm a yuppy type of guy that wants something sleeker and faster. I think the G35 coupe is perfect for me.
<<Turning warped rotors will create uneven thickness in the disc, making them even more susceptible to warping in the future. Imagine a warped LP record, and shaving the A and B sides in order to create a smooth, unwarped surface. You will end up with alternating thin and thick sections.>>
I respectfully disagree with this statement and I want to give my opinion on this issue. My '01 LS has "Hollow", or ribbed, Cast rotors. If these were solid castings, and you machine the rotor for %100 clean-up on each side, then you would wind up with, in fact, a true even thickness all the way around. But since these are hollow "Castings", or "Forgings", then the initial problem lies with the casting's consistancy back to the machined surfaces. If the "First cut" (Spindle Bore) is not perpendicular to the un-machined area of the rotor, then you will never be able to machine the pad area and have the same thickness back to the un-machined, rib area. The two pad surfaces will be parallel, but the wall thickness will be inconsistant in the inside vented area.
The manufacturing process for rotors is to first, Machine the bearing race, or spindle bore. You then locate from that bore to machine the pad surfaces. I surmise that these rotors were not accurately bored in the first stage, causing the "Fin", or "Rib" cast area to be "Wobbling" during the pad surface machining operation. This would result in a variation of thickness that can never be corrected.
IMHO, I could take a correctly machined set of rotors and totally remove one lug nut off of each wheel, and not see warpage. ie; The "torque" explaination is a snow job. What else could it be? I've seen enough posts here from people who know what they're doing to validate that. GM is trying to compare this to a head gasket. In a head gasket, you have combustion that is trying to escape. The two surfaces must seal completely. I think that cold water on a hot rotor is much more likely to warp a rotor than incorrect torque.
This is all just my opinion coming from 30 yrs as a machinist.
Brett......
I have a 2000 (IMPALA) base model w/3.8l engine. I've had to have my front rotors turned once, but I had problems with them PRIOR TO EVER HAVING THE TIRES ROTATED, thus IMHO I think the whole torque thing is bogus - No one ever had my wheels off, so if overtorquing was an issue, it was done at the factory.
Before I rotated my own tires, I bought a click-type torque wrench, so as to avoid problems in the future. However, I suspect sometime in the not-too-distant future, I'll be replacing my factory rotors with a stronger aftermarket version.
Pad Kit: $55
Labor: $94.95
Total: $153.52
I thought about aftermarket rotors but haven't decided how long I'll own this car. No complaints, just want something sportier.
Ordered front speakers finally from Soundhabit.com. (I popped the front right one w/ the aftermarket amp that was installed. I had the old amp part # & it sucked.) Model I chose was MB Quart QM218.03CX for $160. I guess they're a previous year's model b/c I can't find stats on these. The new QM218.61Q can't be found for under $450. I'll find out what the frequency response difference between the 2 are when the box comes in the mail. My power window isn't acting up as much anymore. (It didn't work at all when we had snow last week-weird.) Its probably a loose or dirty contact b/c down is okay but up it jerks & you have to push it a certain way. The power window switch is an assembly that would be replaced entirely. Also my A/C intake switch sticks. Thinking debris is the culprit, a can of air was tested to blow it out, but that didn't work. Maybe WD-40? I love my Impala but will resume buying Japanese again after this. Every domestic car I get has bugs, lots of minor ones anyway. I admit my Acura had issues too, but they didn't start until it was 10 years old. :-D
Read the posts about Nissan Altimas or Acuras in these townhall forums. It's very enlightening. They have their share of problems.
FROM one of the ACURA boards, this recent post:
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"Here is the record for my [ACURA] 2002TL:
It has had the following recurring problems that are factory-related defects confirmed by Acura Service Department:
1. Popping and rattling noise in rear of the car/ Factory-related defects (10/17/2001) Problem was not fixed
2. Popping and rattling noise in rear of the car/ Factory-related defects of back glass/ back glass molding
(11/13/2001-11/14/2001) Problem was not fixed
3. Popping and rattling noise in rear of the car/ Factory-related defects of back glass/ back glass molding and Factory-related defects of a rear vents (11/16/2001-12/04/2001) Problem was not fixed
4. Popping and rattling noise in rear of the car/ Factory-related defects (12/07/2001) Service invoice was not provided. Problem was not fixed
5. Popping and rattling noise in rear of the car/Factory-related defects (01/29/02)"
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And that's only the tip of the iceberg.
These two are from an NISSAN Altima board:
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#108 of 110 1999 Altima SE by nickm2 Feb 26, 2002 (02:05 pm)
When I first start my car after its been sitting around for a while, I hear a sound that sounds like a chain being dragged across concrete whenever I step on the gas. It goes away after 5 minutes or so, and the sound's not loud, but its new, so I'm concerned. Anyone ever hear of this?
#109 of 110 Something Weird..... by shemz Feb 27, 2002 (05:10 am)
This morning on my way to my university, the car did something weird and crazy, the RPM started to go up and down like crazy, then the car wouldnt accelerate and was shaking, it was very weird, then after i pressed the gas pedal a little harder it went back to normal...?? I remember i read this same incident that happened to one of us here..any advice would be helpful.. by the way The check engine light turned off..... "
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Also, just take a look at the oldest cars on the road - what are they? Notice that the Japanese steel - especially on Nissans and Hondas appear to rust out a lot sooner and more widely spread than their American counterparts.
Read any forum on any car and you'll find problems, regardless of make.
The facts again are: so called Japanese cars are the top sellers year after year, most don't even have fleet sales and they don't offer police packages that help Impala boost its numbers. Can all of you Americans that buy Honda Accord and Toyota Camray year after year be wrong?
Some of you look at your Impala like a religion. Its a car nothing else.
Again I have an Impala. What do I care if they sell 200,000 or 2,000 cars a year. Who cares? I have driven Chevys all my life. Not because I think they are better but because they satisfy my needs. I know there are better built cars out there. You would be a fool or extremely narrow minded if you thought otherwise.
Sure the Hondas, Toyotas Mazdas have there own problems, but when hundreds of thousands of you Americans keep buying these cars there must be something to it!!. These companies learned from the mistakes that the US auto manufactures made in the 70's and 80's. and capitilized on it.
One thing for sure. When you take a Honda or Toyota to the dealers for service or repairs, they look after you, a lot better then GM Ford or Chrysler.
Don't tell me that Motor Trend, Car & Driver, Road & Track are biased against the American cars. They honestly believe that the so called Japaese cars are better. Each one tells you that. What would be there reason to lie. Chevrolet spends millions of dollars advertising in these magazines year after year.
You can't compare a 2002 Cavalier to a Toyota Corolla (no contest) you can't compare a Malibu to a Honda Accord. Apples and oranges.
I have NO idea where you got the idea that import dealers treat service customers better. It is not supported by the overall evidence even an iota.
Those who get Lexus and Infiniti (and Cadillac) levels of service pay for it, both upfront and at the service cashier. You get what you pay for.
The Impala I currently own is far more reliable than any Japanese car I ever owned, and I have owned several.
That all being said, my next car will be another Impala LS, a 2003 Crown Vic Sport or Grand Marquis or Mercury Marauder, or maybe even a 4 cylinder Camry!
Unpredictable, that's me!
Honda Accords are made in Ohio.
I did not mention either brand in my #8530 post.
I consider my Impala basically a Canadian - made car because that is where it was assembled. ( Read the stats and it is apparent that NAFTA has caused the loss of many American manufacturing jobs - especially in the auto industry. But I digress...)
BTW, I've driven a Corolla on rental and it stunk. Noisy, uncomfortable, poorly made and cheap, cheap, cheap.
On the other hand, my wife's car is a 98 Camry - which we like very much - but the Corolla was in no way comparable even though they are both "Toyotas". I also rented a small Pontiac Sunbird? or whatever another time and although it was markedly superior to the Corolla it was still not something I would ever buy.
Don't know if Hondas have fleet sales but Toyota Camrys most certainly DO. I rented a 99 Camry at HERTZ in LAX airport in September 99. With less than 10,000 miles on it, it was already showing many signs of wear. It did not even feel or drive like the same car as our own Camry. The emergency brake barely worked and since we were headed to hilly San Francisco and then all the way up the coast to Seattle, we exchanged it for a Chevy Lumina south of S.F. No problems with the Lumina although it did have a wide turning radius for its size.
As far as Honda and Toyota as police cars - they simply couldn't cut it.
RWD is less problematic and the Ford Crown Vic is still the police favorite as it is for taxi cabs.
RWD Chevy Caprices were also popular for police and cabs through 1996.
FWD Impalas are now being tried as police cars in some areas and time will tell if they are up to the challenge of heavy duty use .
Could NOT say that about my 92 Nissan Maxima SE, nor the thinly disguised 85 Toyota Corolla that called itself a Chevy Nova.
I love Japanese cars, but I get a little tired of the attitude that US badged cars are by definition inferior. Some are. Some aren't.
Chris
http://members.cox.net/2001impala
As I said before. I have bee driving Chevys for 31 years. I have had my share of problems, with the cars and the dealerships. Some are good some are not. Because I drive an Impala shouldn't stop me from expressing an unbiased view of others. 1965 Impala was #1 in sales in the USA. They have a long way to go today to repeat those numbers.
The so called Japanese cars get my attention a lot more in their commercials then the Impala does. They play up beat music and usually show the cars in a racy or beach scene. There is one Impala commercial that has the man buying one saying my father had an Impala, thats not bad but they hardly show the car. The latest Impala commerical showing the 80 year old maytag repair man in an Impala. Is that ever inspiring?
Corvette just won GTS class last night at Sebring for the first time. You would think Chevrolet would capitalize on that and get some good commercials going showing the reliability and sportieness with bragging rights for this car. But they wont!!. The current Monte Carlo commerical where they use that cartoon character taz is so outdated. This commerical has been running for three years and they still use the 2000 Monte Carlo in it.
Hopefully Lutz or someone at Chevrolet will bring the division out the dark ages. Maybe better exposure in lively commercials will bring sales closer to #1 or 2.
I would love to see a Carmine red loaded Impala LS in a tv commerical cruzzzzing with 60's Impalas up and down Woodward avenue in Detroit. But they won't. ZOOM ZOOM ZOOM !!
Good to hear from you Teo!.
Reliability: Didn't you have a 2000 Impala with so many reliability problems that you had to get them to give you a new one. Whom!!!!!!
When am I getting my Suburban Teo!
Hello again Teo!
A Car is an inanimate object and thankfully, I have my life priorities in order, including my faith.
Before September 2001, the Impala was still selling very well with no incentives or heavy rebates. Check sales stats since 1999 before you arrive at the wrong conclusions.
If your car is giving you brief or you think it will be, get rid of it, life is not worth wasting grieving over a car.
After spending nearly 12 years driving Perfect Japanese transportation appliances,I had it with them. If my next car is not a Monaro/Commodore (GTO) it willlikely be German iron in the realm of a BMW 3 series, etc..
Pat
Host
Sedans Message Board
If in order to improve the trunk illumination only involves replacing the existing bulb with a brighter one (Higher watt rating), then I'll ask my Service Manager to replace it on my next oil change stop. I am sure this can be done under warranty.
Another thing that I noticed this weekend is that her Stereo CD sound quality is not as Boomy as my own stereo CD. She has the same trunk AMP so I suspect also that cars built after 5/2001 or 6/2001 already have the "Too much bass" TSB applied.
I am going to get these two minor fine tune details taken care of next month.
Steering clunk appears to be completely gone. Long term will tell the tale.
It will be interesting to see if there is any difference in the level of lighting in the trunk with the new bulb. I agree it didn't seem very bright before (except when I bumped against the assembly and knocked it out - it's really bright when you look directly at the bulb!). I'll do a subjective test tonight to see if it appears any brighter.
Brad
I got one as a Christmas gift from my brother and I still can't figure out what I am going to do with it. Maybe shine it in the eyes of the morons with the arctic-white headlight/foglights perfectly aimed to blind drivers ahead of them.
I don't think any underhood light is going to be really effective. I keep a Maglite in the passenger compartment and the Porta-Sun in the trunk. Not to mention, if I am out in an area where there isn't enough light to see by, chances are I won't be working under the hood.
Chris
http://members.cox.net/2001impala
I guess I'm gonna be losing my impala for a week. I told the service rep to look into a slight sound coming from the RPM indicator (kinda like a grinding noise barely heard) They're gonna have to ship out the whole instrument cluster to get repaired at a different location. (they wont replace it for some reason) Anyone have that noise? I'll probably take it in sometime next month, they said they'll put me in an Enterprise Rental while they got my car. I might rent the Altima and compare.
Chris
http://members.cox.net/2001impala
One of my favorite shows I might add.. 'Cept all the Mopars.
Nathan thanks for the hilarious post about the portasun.
Teo, is your sister's trunk light in the same place, with the same stupid wire hanging down? I constantly catch my mountain bike on that thing.
BTW - they did replace the trunk bulb under warranty. Woohoo, a whole US$0.35 - that's about $7.48 Canadian! ;-)
I am sure this one is a lot easier to pull than replacing the radio AMP.
I also agree with you 100% about the lug nut torgueing issue. It's entirely over-rated as a cause of disc warpage.
Yesterday was the first day I'd really driven my Impala in about a week (spent most of last week driving at 15-passenger Dodge van to Houston and back). You really don't appreciate what you've got until you're forced to drive a beast like that Dodge around; makes getting back into the Impala a true blessing. I'm approaching 35K miles, and except for the ISS (which has been replced), the only rattles I've encountered come from things stored in the map pockets and such.
Probably the only things I'm disappointed about on the car is the sound quality of the stereo and the flimsy cup holders; both of which were dealt with on the 2001 models (mine's a 2000). Nice little touches like the illuminated cruise control buttons don't stand out until you try to drive a strange vehicle at night, and you realize how nicely thought out the Impala really is. Read the Consumers Report car issue while at the dentist this morning; they speak favorably of the Impala, especially in terms of reliability and safety.
It could use a vanity license plate, "TSTLESS".