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FatherTyricius
What's the mating pluf then for, if I'm just going straight off the fuse there?
To buy one at the same time as the new car doesn't make sense to me. The car is covered for 36/36 or longer already! (not to mention emissions systems 7/100 coverage, which includes many powertrain components.)
Plus, do you know for sure you will keep the car past the factory warranty? What if it's totalled?
However, there is a catch in pro-rating, if I understood it right when reading the contract, and remember it right now. If you bought a 100K mile warranty at 25k, and dropped it at 50K, only half of payment will be returned. 50k / 100k = 50%. It does not matter than you did not have tha warranty for the first 25k, and had the manufacturer warranty till 36k...
Additionally, there is a fee, $50 or so...
And that's often the smart way of going about it and also for the same reasons you stated in your previous post.
Often, the maximum coverage that can be purchased after the original warranty has expired is 3 years/100,000 miles.
I personally prefer to keep ANY car under warranty for the amount of time I plan to own it.
For me I prefer to keep cars no longer than 5, or 6 years tops and about 75K miles.
New cars are just too complicated and parts and labor are very expensive. To me the extended warranty is just insurance against unexpected car repair expenses. If a tranny goes, then you have to part with $3K that you might had saved for your Roth IRA contribution or a nice vacation?
To me that kind of risk is simply not worth it.
Remember, even if you are mechanically inclined, I doubt you are going to mount a new transmission in your home garage or do some other major repair work.
But to each his/her own..
Over life, a typical family probably owns as much as 10-15 cars. Averaging over the number, huge majority would turn better at end without buying extended warranties.
However, there are different cases. Spending on warranties are much more predictable than spending on repairs. Good for those families, who do not have enough slack in budget nor enough savings. Either because of low income, of character, or other reasons.
I believe, that warranties pays in special cases, like with former rental cars, or repocessed cars, even lease returns. Because the cost of warranty is the same, and probability of failure is much higher.
What does the mating plug exactly do? Does it plug in there, and just feeds power straight into the components (IE, scanner) that I wire to it?
That is annual pace of about 240,000.
Anyway, I get my GM Card year end summary in the mail today, and they show the maximum redemption allowances on all GM products, and the Impala has been cut to $1500. Ugh.
Just checked the GM card site: the max redemption for Impala is $1,500, The same for Buick Century. However, for Buick Regal still $2000. The same 2,000 for Pontiac Gran Prix, for Olds Intrigue...
http://www.gmcard.com/generic/a_indexredemption.html
Most probable, because of lower demand. Or because the price range is higher. Or for the both reasons, or for some other...
If you take the cashback, you can combine it with your accrued GM Mastercard points. So if you want to buy a new Impala right now, GM is giving you a total of $3502 in rebate money on top of your best negotiated price.
As for the Ford Taurus, just curious, why you don't like it? I rented a '02 Taurus last month when we traveled to Seattle and the car was decent. Interior is nice, but the powertrain is no where near the performance, response and efficiency of the Impala's powertrain combo.
Of course, I still take an Impala anyday over the Taurus.
Don't care that much for this engine either. Problem with this car above all is the lousy automatic tranny.
I believe Ford is known for pretty firm shifting, or was back when they still used Type F fluid.
The only thing missing would be the cool grille that was on the experimental Impala SS that was in the lobby of the Oshawa assembly plant last year.
I think there is a difference between the NEW GM Card, and the original GM Card. Our original GM Card (when it was first introduced), we were able to accumulate as much as $7K over 7 year time span, and redeem the entire amount at one shot if we wish. But 3 years ago, GM reduced the amount you can accumulate to a maximum of $500 per year over 7 year time span.
With the New GM Card, GM placed a restriction on how many points you can accumulate and redeem.
When I bought my Impala LS last year, I redeemed the entire $3,750 on my GM Card. Now, with the other Gold Card that I have, I still have about 2K points. I"m not sure what to do with it since my next car will be Infiniti G35. I'm not too crazy about the CTS.
By the way, the dealer will allow you to charge a maximum of $2-3K (i think?)on your GM Card as a down payment. Of course, it varies by dealership. Be sure to ask since you can accumulate points all over again.
Oh, did anyone get their GM Card t-shirt? Couple months ago, I posted on this board that GM is offering FREE GM Card t-shirt if you answer a short survey. My t-shirt arrived last month. Really nice quality shirt!!
https://www.gmcard.com/generic/a_indexoffers.html
Not quite correct. I have had both, the old and "New" GM Mastercard credit card accounts.
Basically, with the new account you no longer have a "Cap" or limit as to how many points you can accumulate over time (Per year basis). You can accumulate as many points as you wish, but the catch is that you have a limit in terms of how many of those accrued points can be redeemed, according to the new GM vehicle of your choice. For example, I can accumulate $3K worth of New GM card points on one year, but if I wish to buy tomorrow a new 2003 Pontiac Vibe, GM only allows me to redeem $1K worth of points. The only advantage of the new GM Card points program is that you can accrue points much faster in comparison to the old GM Card points program.
With the "Old" GM Card blue and Gold accounts, you had a "Cap" as to how many points you could accrue per year. Often the limit was $500.00 per year for a maximum of 7 years (Unused points expire after 7 years on both old and new GM card accounts)or $3,500 accrued.
So, under the old GM Card program it took much longer to accrue any significant amount of points, but the advantage is that you could then redeem a maximum of $3,500 on all participating new GM cars and trucks, with no redeeming limitations as in the New GM card accounts.
I switched to the "New" program 2 years ago as we wanted to be able to accrue points much faster rather than waiting years to have any significant amount of points accrued.
Both programs are good but they both have their "catch 22's". The old GM blue and Gold accounts are no longer offered for new GM account holders. Previous blue and gold account holders get to keep their old program guidelines if they wish. Once you switch from the old to the new GM cards, there is no turning around.
Last, but not least, if you are not planning on buying a new GM product anytime soon and have points that you wish to give to someone else, you can transfer them to that person, but the problem is that new person must be added as an "Authorized" user in your GM credit card account.
You can charge any amount of downpayment on your GM mastercard account as long as you don't exceed your established credit limit. If your credit limit is $12k, you can charge $12k for downpayment.
There is no restrictions on this among any GM dealers. Money is money to them, if you know what I mean ;-)
I know some dealers limit the amount you can charge on your credit card. If money is money to them, I"m sure they're counting their money MINUS 2% charge for accepting credit card payment. Thus, on a max out $12K card limit, the dealer would incur $240.
It all depends on what policy the dealers have for accepting credit card payment.
I prefer the original GM Card since my average yearly spending is about $10K, which comes out $500 in rebate points yearly.
My original GM Card allowed me to redeem the full amount of $3750 (not $3500) because originally the cap was $7K over 7 years. However, GM made the changes midstream, and had to honor the original agreement.
<<you can transfer them to that person, but the problem is that new person must be added as an "Authorized" user in your GM credit card account.>>
I'm not sure, but I think that "new person" must reside within the same address as the account holder. I dont' think it's that easy to transfer these points just by adding them as an "authorized" user.
What's wrong with this picture?
I finally got some work done on the clicking/tapping feeling in the brake pedal and steering wheel on my '01 LS built in 11/00. I asked the dealer for the ISS grease kit but they said that this TSB was not fixing the problems the way they hoped. They said they'd like to replace the steering sector (rack) and while I didn't think it was the problem I let them do it. I've been about 100 miles since and it's been PERFECT. Surprising? Yes. Delightful? Yes.
We'll see how it does with the test of time...
If you look at the wheels on the LS the centercap actually sticks out past the rim.
If you look at the SS wheel the centercap is set within the rim.
I spoke with the service manager, he said they've done a few of the lube kits and so far so good. None of them have come back with a repeat problem, but he did say that if the problem re-occurs they will replace the shaft. He hadn't heard anything about the steering rack being the problem. They are 100% straight with me because my brother-in-law is the parts manager.
We'll see how it goes on Monday.
Brad
The bulletin notice in Nathan's web page, not only lists the Impala but nearly every other GM sedan currently marketed. What I find a bit intriguing is that I don't read about the same frequency complaints from owners of Buick LeSabre's, Pontiac Bonneville's, Buick Regal's to name a few in terms of the IIS. All these cars share the same exact ISS hardware as the Impala.
The "Shim Kit" fix was meant to cure the early production problems with the engine cradle noises. Totally unrelated to the ISS.
Did you have, both, the "Shim Kit" fix for the engine cradle and the "ISS Lube Kit" fix applied on your car, or just one of them?
People, don't confuse the engine cradle, with the ISS, two very separate issues.
http://www.torrington.com/products/preccomp/steeringintermed.htm
TSB# 01-06-04-058: Hesitation stumble on acceleration (Recalibrate PCM); 2000 Chevrolet Impala (only) with 3.8L V6 engine (VIN K - RPO L36) and NC8 (California Emissions).
01-08-111-003: Roof panel joint (ditch) molding (Roof Strips); 2000-2002 Chevrolet Impala.
01-03-10-008: False tire inflation monitor (TIM) Message/Lamp illumination (Install new electronic brake traction control module - EBTCM); 1999-2001 Buick Century, Regal, 2000-2001 Chevrolet Impala, Montecarlo.
01-08-44-011: CD Cannot be inserted into CD player or Ejected (Reset radio); 2002 Chevrolet Cavalier, Impala, Malibu, Montecarlo, Venture, Oldsmobile Intrigue,Sillouette, Pontiac Montana.
Check this TSB out, very interesting....
01-08-44-012: Radio Bass level TOO HIGH (Adjust bass level using GM Tech Tool Level 2); 2001-02 Chevrolet Impala, Montecarlo. (Didn't know the Boomy bass sound issue could be solved via using the GM Tech Level 2 tool, COOL!)
01-08-50-008: Power seat track adjusters: 2001 Buick Century, Regal, Chevrolet Impala, Montecarlo built after specified VIN breakpoints.