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Toyota Tacoma: Problems & Solutions

pocahontaspocahontas Member Posts: 802
edited March 2014 in Toyota
Copy/pasted for Waxer:

#0 of 0: Toyota tunes (waxer) Thu 14 Dec '00
(03:17 PM)

17000 miles M/L on 2000 prerunner and rear end is
squealing upon deceleration. Anyone else? Vehicle
is street only driven and very well maintained.
«13456741

Comments

  • webbdwebbd Member Posts: 176
    I got a 2000 Prerunner as well, now with 29,000 miles (like to drive), and I had the same annoyance around your mileage. I no longer have the problem. I was having my oil changed by Jiffy Lube every 2500 miles, but they weren't lubing the chassis. So the next time you take your truck in for an oil change, make sure you watch the technicians lube your chassis. This seemed to cure my problem. Don't be alarmed, though, because it is only a vibration problem and not an indicator of something wrong with the driveline, diff, axle, etc. I suspect that a lot of quick-change oil centers skip the lubing of car and truck chassises because they view it as unimportant or needless. I had a few words with Jiffy Lube and never returned to that particular center. If you want things done right, you either have to do them yourself or stand over someone and make sure that they do them. Hope this relieves you.
  • jacko5jacko5 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 99 PreRunner V-6. I just started noticing the squeel. I'll look at the lubing of the chassis. Thanks.
  • paul156paul156 Member Posts: 1
    I also love my Tacoma. Its a 1998 sr5 ext cab 4x4 4 cyl auto. But at 20k miles it developed a clunking noise when i shift out of park into drive or drive into reverse. After the dealer removed my transfer case disassembled it and found nothing wrong they then decided it was in the transmission and replaced it under warranty. Now after having a recent state inspection my mechanic said I have a leaking transfer case. Last year at this time they replaced a bent shift rod in the transfercase because it would not go into 4wheel drive, just got it back from the dealer for the leak. It has gobs of red sealer pushing out between the case halfs! I hope the leak stays fixed as I'm getting tired of the problems. The reason I purchased a Tacoma was someone told me they are the most reliable small 4x4 pick up on the market! Has anyone had any problems with there 98 Tacoma like I have or is this a fluke or poor dealer knowledge on the proper repair procedure?
  • webbdwebbd Member Posts: 176
    You didn't state how much or to what extent you offroad. Like how did the shift rod get bent?

    If these problems occurred independently of your own actions, then I would say it sounds like poor workmanship on behalf of the dealer. Once fixed, it shouldn't happen again. (Should have never happened in the first place, is my opinion.)

    Do you only let the dealership work on your truck? I do because I find a tendency among other mechanics to scoff at or dislike toyota or "foreign" trucks as they call them, and hence my service suffers because of this.

    I would try a new dealership, if at all possible. If you don't live where this is possible, then contact Toyota directly. Eventually you'll talk to someone who will get the problem fixed for you and correctly.

    Hope this helps.
  • sr54x4lemonsr54x4lemon Member Posts: 4
    Help!

    I'm extremely frustrated with my dealership, and my Tacoma, beause of Toyota's inability to fix a very annoying problem FOUR different times. The service manager eventually told me to call Toyota, and take the issue to arbitration - what a joke that was - the arbitration company is on Toyota's payroll. Since Toyota didn't make any "attempts" to fix it (they can't - they don't know what's causing it) arbitration didn't apply. Full circle, and my truck STILL isn't right. Any thoughts, ideas, comments or suggestions are sincerely appreciated:

    1998 Tacoma SR5 4x4 ex cab, auto tranny - the problem occurs after braking to a complete stop. When you remove your foot from the brake, a very solid 'thud' occurs, and it feels as if someone has bumped you from the rear. Both the drive selector (auto) and transfer case shifter visibly jump when this occurs. The harder you break, when coming to a stop, the worse the 'thud' is when you release the brake peddle. If I stop very gradually, the problem does not occur. (On two occaisions, I've had emergency situtions where I've virtually stood on the brake peddle to avoid a collision (I live in Northern VA - people drive crazy here!). In both cases, I came to a complete stop, took my foot off of the brake to begin to acellerate, and the truck acted as if it were in neutral. Within a second or two, the drive train re-engaged while the RPMs were still up, the tires chirped, and I found myself 3-5 feet forward. Not good at a busy intersection I have not been able to recreate the problem this to extreme, so this particuliar issue could essentially be ANOTHER, unrelated problem.)

    I've tolerated this for 1.5 years, and I'm at my wits end. The only other option I know of, is to have a friend drive it to reproduce the problem and have a look see for myself from under the truck when he takes his foot off of the brake.

    Anyone have any ideas or hear of a similar problem before? I'm pretty handy with a tool box and will try most anything at this point.

    Thanks!
    Ted
  • barlitzbarlitz Member Posts: 752
    Take it to the dealer you purchased it from and trade it in,From everybody elses opinion Toyota's are supposed to be pretty reliable,chances of 2 bad ones should be slim.
  • quadrunner500quadrunner500 Member Posts: 2,721
    Oh my gosh...Barlitz back from the big dig. That quad...he got a memory that don't rest!!! Wonder what he's drivin' now, had lightning, then F250 LD, now probably driving a Tacoma? Nah...
  • sebring95sebring95 Member Posts: 3,241
    I've heard conflicting stories about what causes this, but it doesn't just happen to toyota. Typically it's more common in 4X4's with automatics. I've heard a few Tacoma owners complaining about this, as well as Jeep GC (there is a forum just for the thud issue), and my Jeep Cherokee does it as well. My grandpa is a service manager for a Dodge dealerhip, and he says it's likely the transmission shifting into first a bit late. Dodge had a big problem with that in their cars awhile back, most noticable if you did a very slow california stop and then gassed it. When you get back on the gas, it downshifted really hard into first causing the thud/bump feel.

    Another thought is axle wrap. Basically the geometry of the vehicle during a hard brake puts pressure on the drivetrain causing the thud. Once you release the brake, this releases the pressure through the axle/driveshafts. The harder you break, the more pressure built up in the suspension.

    Personally, I think it's the latter because of how my Jeep does it.

    Try manually downshifting to first during braking (that way you know it's in 1st before you come to a stop). If it still does it it's axle wrap and more or less a characteristic of driving a truck.

    I've only got 3000 miles on the Jeep, and I have no intention of having the dealer look at it. Nothing else is strange about the handling/ride/drivability so it really doesn't bother me. Plus there isn't really much that can fix it that I'm aware of.
  • amoraamora Member Posts: 204
    Try calling DOWNEY TOYOTA in So. California. For over 20 years they have serviced and
    given expert advice on all Toyota 4x4 vehicles. Check your off road mags and local areas.
    Downey was awesome in correcting minor annoyances on my '77 Landcruiser and have helped
    my buddies who've owned 4x4 Toyotas...they are suspension experts...

    Good luck
  • I've had a bunch of 4X4s, mostly Toyota and Chevy, and have noticed similar problems upon hard braking. I've always attributed it to all the u joints these vehicles have. I specifically remember taking a test drive in a new Nissan V6 4X4 with a 5 speed, probably about 1995. There was so much slop in the drive train because of all the u joints, I literally couldn't wait to get out of it! I've also had 9 Corvettes, from the late 60s-early 70s. Same problem with them... too many u joints... constant clunking. I just bought a new Prerunner V6 (2WD automatic), and it doesn't do the clunking thing that my other Toyota 4X4s did... whatever that means.
  • romkatromkat Member Posts: 1
    Having a problem with clutch on Taco ma TRY 4x4 1999.
    After driving in a deep snow, feel smell of burning clutch. H4 or L4 no difference.
    Interesting, are anybody had the same experience
  • 2000pre2000pre Member Posts: 1
    I would think that it is axle wrap. The Tacoma rear leaf springs are too soft, they let the axle rotate slightly while braking. Then once you start off again, the axle jumps back into position. I have heard people adding leaf springs in the rear to fix this. Rancho makes some that are called AAL, Add-A-Leaf. They run about $40. I am considering this, since I have the same problem.

    I own a 2000 Toyota Tacoma Xtracab PreRunner V6. I love this truck, I have about 9,000 miles on it with no problems. I wouldn't consider the axle wrap a problem, just annoying. I like the V6 power, ride height, and looks. Hope this helps.
  • jeffer2jeffer2 Member Posts: 35
    I'm thinking about trading my car in on a new 4x4. A Tacoma with the V-6 & 5-speed is one on my short list. Any info people here could give me would be greatly appreciated. I've read about the thuds and clunks people are experiencing with interest.
    Do the 2001s have this clunking problems too? Any option I should make sure I get on a Tacoma?
    I live in Wisconsin so I have to deal with the snow and cold. I'm not sure if I'll take the truck off-road.
    If I do this, it will be my first Toyota, first 4x4, and first pick up. Thanks you. - Jeffer2
  • tacoma_trdtacoma_trd Member Posts: 135
    My advice is get a 2001 Ranger 4x4 with the 4.0L V6. I've seen some advertised for 18,999. Also get limited slip.
  • 2k1trd2k1trd Member Posts: 301
    My 01 is awesome (x-cab v6 TRD 5 spd)and you won't be getting any of those clunking problems with a manual trans.
  • sr54x4lemonsr54x4lemon Member Posts: 4
    Thanks to all that have responded re my post (#6). Barlitz, trading is out of the question. Not only am I now turned off on Toyotas (I was a hard core Toy fan prior to this truck - it's my 3rd one!), but I can't stand the idea of giving Toyota more of my $$ for the hit that I'd take on a trade.
    (PLUS - I just got my wife the '01 325XI for Christmas - in short, the idea of more car payments makes me queezy right now!)

    Sebring95 and 2000Pre - I think you've hit the nail on the head. I'd suspected the axle was the cause (inertia causes it to move forward and the brakes would then hold it in the forward position until the peddle was released.) I'll give the leaf spring addition a try - it sure can't hurt.

    BMW - For those looking to by a Tacoma, this truck is absolutely incredible off road, but handles a little sloppy on the asphalt, IMHO.

    Thanks again!
    Wed
  • tacomasrocktacomasrock Member Posts: 11
    My 1997 x-cab 4x4 man. had no probs whatsoever--except for the dings and breaks I did all by myself, I thought it had plenty of power for all my 4x4 needs. I live in Idaho and took on several rough trails--always plenty of juice-- i never hauled over 1000lbs though-- I just traded in for a 2001 with the same specs-- i have not seen any of the probs but it is a manual. what a killer truck-- sorry sr5lemon, tough break on the fluke taco
  • sail2xssail2xs Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1998 Tacoma SR5 XCab, V6, 5 speed, TRD. This was my first truck. I chose Toyota because of its reliability, and it hasn't disappointed me in over 183,000 miles. No break-downs, no clunks, no squeaks or rattles, and only regular maintenance has been performed (by dealers only). I had no plans to go off-roading when I bought the Tacoma (except for surf-fishing beach driving) - after taking a road trip to the Southwest and seeing all the 4x4 trails, I changed my mind. The truck is awesome off-road, even in stock form (which mine is) and is great on-road if you remember you are in a truck.

    Edmunds.com did a review in which they hated the seats. I have the bucket seats, and after many 1000+ mile days in the driver's seat, I have no problem with them. The extended cab is a great thing to have - dry, safe, storage for stuff (bad for people though), and the seats will recline far enough that you can take a nap in the truck on a long drive. Definitely get the TRD package - handling is much firmer - important if you will be towing.

    I live outside of Washington DC - 2001 SR5 V6 Extended cab w/ bucket seats, stick shift, TRD package and bedliner goes for about $20K.
  • caveman_99caveman_99 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99' Tacoma SR5 5sp with TRD package. In addition it has a sunroof, power windows, and antilock brakes. I have a 3500Lb boat which I tow on some very long trips from So. Cal to places like Lake Mead and Powell. I have not experienced any clunking problems, but the rear springs do have a tendancy to hop in sandy off-road conditions. I think this is probably true of many trucks, not just Toyotas. I would recommend to anybody the antilock brakes, they have saved my butt more than once when 85mph traffic suddenly stops dead- a frequent occurance on So Cal freeways. When towing, the truck handles the boat very well, but I wish I had 50 more hp for towing up long mountain grades (yes, I know about the TRD supercharger). Overall, a great truck, especially off-road.
  • webbdwebbd Member Posts: 176
    Alright, here's my dilemma--my truck rocks!

    That's it. It rocks on the highway, in the city, and, occasionally, off-road. Except for all this rocking, my toyota trucks have been trouble-free.
  • richessonrichesson Member Posts: 3
    I love my 2000 Tacoma SR5 extra cab. My only complaint is the too large turning radius. I find that I must have a very wide street to make a U turn and parking (straight in stall) always requires backing up to park straight in the stall. I can't understand why this small truck needs to have such a large turning radius. My question: Is the turning radius at all adjustable, or are the stops fixed? Could my trucks stops be incorrect or adjusted wide to allow installing larger tires (no plans to do this). Can I safely change the turning radius?
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    Don't take this the wrong way - but if you can't park a Tacoma without needing two tries at it maybe you need driving lessons.

    I changed the wheel stop adjusters on my 86.5 Nissan. It was easy to do. The only mistake I made was adjusting them when my tires had about 45,000 miles on them. When I got new tires the first time I hit a bump while turning sharp I got some rub. Had to adjust back out a little.
  • richessonrichesson Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the reply, I will look for the stops and see if they are adjustable. If you can do it I can too. However, I wish you were closer and I would have you demonstrate parking my truck in a straught-in stall in a narrow asile parking lot, or better yet make a U turn on a narrow street. But gosh I forgot everything is BIGGER in Texas.
  • webbdwebbd Member Posts: 176
    Your damn right about that! Even our Tacomas here are bigger. Why just yesterday, I rolled over a Tacoma from Nebraska when he stalled at a red light in stop-n-go traffic using my 80 inches of Texas-sized ground clearance.
  • allknowingallknowing Member Posts: 866
    The service schedule for the Tacoma says to re-torque the propeller shaft "nut" annually. The service manual doesn't specify what they mean by the "nut". Are they simply referring to the nuts connecting the shaft to the rear end and the powertrain, do they mean the the staked nut holding the whole assembly together, or is there another "nut" I'm not seeing? If they mean the staked nut, it means removal of the whole propeller shaft which will be a royal pain in the butt and may make me want a Ford next time. Anyone know the answer?
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    http://www.adcritic.com/content/toyota-bugger.html


    Follow the link to see Tacoma with pulling problem.

  • bggmikebggmike Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 tacoma V6, automatic, 4X4, TRD Off Road package. It clunks everytime (or almost everytime) you come to a complete stop or when you take your foot off the brake. Toyota has spent over 3,000 dollars on my truck and still have not fixed it. They have lubed the yokes, added another leaf spring, adjusted transmission shifting points. still no fix.
  • z71billz71bill Member Posts: 1,986
    If you are ever in Texas let me know and I will be happy to give you a driving lesson. I would guess you are starting your turn to soon (common rookie mistake). I park a full size X-cab Z-71 in tight spots everyday - will admit the first few days it was a bear to park - but I don't remember the last time I had to take two tries at a parking spot. Or you could try backing your truck in - I see many 3/4 - 1 ton long bed drivers do this -(LOL)
  • tonylop33tonylop33 Member Posts: 3
    I have a Tacoma Double Cab with a loud wind noise at highway speeds? I think the source is either the driver side mirror or the running boards. Anyone else have this wind noise?
  • toyrotatoyrota Member Posts: 66
    Do you have a hood protector/deflector on your D-Cab? I have read that they make some wind buffeting at the base of the windshield somehow? I have a DCab with the hood protector, and their is some wind noise at highway speeds, but it IS a truck! I don't have the runningboards.
  • tonylop33tonylop33 Member Posts: 3
    No hood protector/bug deflector. It only makes wind noise on the driver side.
  • janeliz444janeliz444 Member Posts: 2
    Hi all - I just posted this same message on the "are you happy with your Tacoma" site, but here goes again: I have a 2000 Prerunner, 4 cyl 2.7L automatic, 4x2, with just over 9000 miles - and since my first oil change (at the dealer) I've been hearing what sounds like my lifters. As if I'm extremely low on oil - which I'm certainly not. At first I heard the sound only when the truck was cold; now I hear it all the time. I'm about to take it to the dealer, but does anyone have any ideas about this before I go?
  • darkgreentrddarkgreentrd Member Posts: 2
    Waxer,

    I've got a 99 Tacoma TRD with the same deceleration squeal. I've had mine serviced by the dealer it's entire life, and it still squeals. The squeal generally happens at highway speeds on relatively level road (no heavy accel or decel). If you goose the gas petal gently, you can aggravate the squeal a bit. I've been thinking it's a drive line issue, possibly a poorly lubed U-joint aggravated by the driveline angle. It's definitely not belt tension and it doesn't seem to matter how cold it is out. Truck loading changes the point at which the sqeual starts. For example, it won't start until I'm down to about 3/4 tank of gas.

    What on the chassis did the dealer lube? So far they've only managed to rotate my credit card a few times. :O)
  • smason1smason1 Member Posts: 1
    In reference to #34 of Toyota Problems, I have the same problem with my 99 prerunner, if you give it a little gas or decel it seems to squeal and the sounds appears to be coming from below or behind me.. If it is something to be lubed, I'd appreciate if someone could let me know. Also the squeal does not seem to happen after the vehicle is warmed up.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Member Posts: 9,372
    I had a mystery squeal on my Nissan 4x4 that I just couldn't pin down. And it was happening at similar times, just as I started to accelerate or decel. We just couldn't track it down until one day I finally noticed an idler pulley on the fan baelt looked kind of odd. Turns out the bearing on the pulley had failed and occasionally the pulley would "chatter" causing the loud squeal.

    I thought we had looked everywhere, but it was a tough one to find until the bearing failed to the point where the pulley started to get out of line.


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  • kolkoskikolkoski Member Posts: 2
    Allknowing. Have the same question. The $125 service manual volume II doesn't tell you the answer, so don't waste your money there. Maybe volume I or Chilton's is the answer
  • allknowingallknowing Member Posts: 866
    Volume I doesn't mention the re-torque of the nut either. In the maintenance section of Vol. I all it says to do is lube the propeller shaft. Looking at the way the nut is staked, and the fact that Vol. II says to replace the staked nut if it's loosened, I have to wonder if it's really necessary at all. Here's a copy of a response I got in the Tacoma vs. Ranger forum from 2k1trd which may help you .
    "#390 of 660 - Personally i wouldn't worry about that nut and as for removing the shaft...well it's about a 5 min job with the right tools and oh yeah the ford shafts are removed in the same manner (4 bolts on each end)and the x-cabs have a center support bearing also (2 bolts holding it up...no biggy)"
  • cpetriecpetrie Member Posts: 2
    I'm the owner of a 2001 Tacoma and was wondering if anyone else has noticed excessive rust on the exterior of the rear chrome bumper. Most of the rust is appearing in the area between the license plate and the license plate lights, and also around the very ends of the bumper. I went to my local dealership and they acted like it was normal and told me that I needed to keep a good coat of wax on it all the time. For a truck that was only five months old and spends most of its time parked in my garage I didn't expect to see any rust. While I was at the dealership I looked at the brand new Tacomas that were parked in the lot and the rust on their rear bumpers looked worse than mine. There is no rust on the front chrome bumper or any other chrome on the truck. Has anyone else noticed this? To me it looks like a poor job of chrome plating the bumper.
  • 2k1trd2k1trd Member Posts: 301
    On a new vehicle????c'mon doesn't sound right to me.My 01 tacoma has no rust on the rear bumper at all.Oh i do wax mine too.
  • sierra691sierra691 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 tacoma painted green mica it appears that the paint scratches and chips eaisly anyone have any comments on this? I have contacted toyota to find out what the mil paint thickness is supposed to be but haven't herd from them yet.
  • sierra691sierra691 Member Posts: 3
    It sounds like you have a lousy chrome job on the bumper. Tell the dealer to giv you a new one.
  • tistevetisteve Member Posts: 142
    I have had two Tacomas that have both seen a fair amount of sand driving and salt water slopped on them from surfing and haven't seen one spec of rust on either. I don't even wax mine, but do wash regularly. They are not garaged either.
    I'd ask for a replacement.
  • bassratbassrat Member Posts: 3
    dont even think about "asking" them for a new bumper. Go to the dealer and demand to talk to the Toyota rep when he comes in town. He is the only one that will give you a new bumper. My 98 Tacoma never had rust. But my 2000 that is only 7 months old rusted in the spots you are talking about. There is a seam that isnt chrome plated very well. If you dont get MAD about the rust problem you wont get a new bumper. I got MAD a week ago and just got my new bumper yesterday. Good luck.
  • extremerextremer Member Posts: 9
    my d-cab seems to kinda "clunk" into gear when i put it into drive.anyone else have that?and i have ABS on it,i'm curious to see how other owners like the ABS brakes.
  • disabatidisabati Member Posts: 1
    I've owned a 89, 92, and now a 01 4x4 X-cab Tacoma (all fully loaded 5-spds). I was very pleased w/ the 89 and 92. But, the 01 has been very disappointing. I've never had to return to the dealer for my other trucks. This one has had a series of problems including a rattle, accelerator cable problem, misfiring, and a torque converter problem. In addition, Toyota has cut corners on the new trucks. For example, they've eliminate the under-the-hood insulation which results in an appreciatable increase in engine noise in the cab. Convenience lights in the doors and dual-operation map lights have been elimiated. Adjustable head-rests are no longer provided. And, they've eliminated a clever in-dash cup holder that was very functional. All this for a higher price. When I bought this truck, admittedly, I did it blindly thinking that I was buying an improved product. The V-6 misfires (dealer says that's normal upto 2,000 miles - I have 3,000 miles now and worse than before). The engine also gargles (exaggerated by the lack of hood insulation - unbelieveable that Toyota eliminated this). Despite a posted 190hp vs 150hp in their previous generation V-6, the new V-6 is no match compared to the old coming off the line. With 170,000 miles, the 92 easily burned rubber w/ the 31x10.50 15s. You won't get the same performance out of the 01 at lower speeds (although the 01 does perform better in mid to higher speeds). My family has been loyal Toyota owners for many years. The 92 V-6 was definately smoother and quieter than the current generation engine.

    Almost everyone I know that has been a Toyota loyalist is beginning to question the value, reliability, and customer satisfaction that Toyota seems to give today. For example, I bought my wife a 1999 Accord EX V-6 Coupe. Compared to the Solara, we paid almost $5,000 less for the Accord. The Accord has been an absolutely flawless vehicle (a great value and very well engineered). I've sinced bought both of my boys (both in college) Acura Integra GS-Rs. Again, I've been very pleased. If Honda/Acura get the nerve to jump into the truck market, I think I would jump ship. Toyota needs to wake up and pay attention. Loyal customers know when corners are being cut and we of course know that when problems occur like the ones I've had in my new truck, that means their beginning to get fat.

    Nick D
    Nickid20754@aol.com
  • 2k1trd2k1trd Member Posts: 301
    Something is abviously wrong with your engine to be misfiring.I can't believe the dealer said that that was normal!...this really bugs the hell out of me to hear this!...insist that they repair your truck at once or if they can't then you want a new one! I own a 01 also and love it compared to my previous tacoma's (1997,2000)all had the 3.4
    and all perform the same (unchanged for 2001).
  • darkgreentrddarkgreentrd Member Posts: 2
    In reference to messages 34, 35, and 36. After further trouble shooting I've leaned towards the center bearing or "hangar bearing" in the drive line as the culprit of the mystery squeal. I didn't find any grease joints on the bearing and presume it to be a sealed bearing. Can anyone confirm this?

    If it does take grease, does anyone know the specification?
  • frank2001frank2001 Member Posts: 13
    I have a '98 tacoma 4x2 with 41K on it and have never changed the the transmission fluid...how often are you suppose to change it?..
  • tacomafranktacomafrank Member Posts: 61
    I have a 2000 Tacoma with no hint of Rust on the bumper after 10 months (which I would expect) and my old 93 Toyota had no hint of rust on the bumper after 7 tears.

    If the chrome is rusting already, it's defective. Maybe wax will stop it, but are you going to consistantly wash and wax the inside and backside of the bumper to prevent rust.

    "Normal" from a dealer just translates as "all these models have that defect, and we're not willing to fix it under warrenty"

    Unless Toyota issues a special recall or TSB on it, I doubt there will be anything you can do about it.

    By the way, Turtle Wax Chrome Polish will take the rust off and leave a good shine on it. Then wax it. If it gets to be a pain in the [non-permissible content removed], you might ant to consider an aftermarket rear bumper. Good luck with the truck, I'm sure overall it will be a great machine, just like mine
  • bjl5bjl5 Member Posts: 24
    I have a 96 4cyl.5spd,re. cab.tacoma with very low mileage and since it was new there has been a flunk in the rear of the truck almost every time you shift from 4th to 5th at highway speeds. When it was under warranty the co. field advisor drove it. he was cute since he already knew the problem he just rode the clutch a little when shifting to 5th and there obviously no flunk but the problem was not solved. This is Toyota's method of solving many problems vehicles. Has anyone had this problem and found a solution? I have been told by a knowledgeable mechanic that he thinks I need grease on the drive shaft where it goes into the tail of the transmission,but since it did it since new and mileage is low the original grease put on at the factory must still be good and working! Any of you Taco owners or mechanics have a answer?
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