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Toyota Tacoma: Problems & Solutions



  • wyckwyck Posts: 2
    eddablow: Thanks for the reply. Mine is 2 wheel drive and does have a skid plate. How did that cause the problem and then fix the problem by changing it? I heard some people say it acts as a wing providing lift but that does not make sense as it is not consistent. Thanks again.
  • Addablow / Wick -

    I have a 2002 Tacome 4x, 24000 miles, just started vibrating badly last week intermittrently when doing 65 - 80 or so. When you slow down by braking, you feel the shimmy through the brake pedal. If you then accelerate again, life is good. is that what you've experienced? How does the skid plate get involved -- is it rubbing or flexing against the halfshafts or something?

    Just went through the ball joint recall and had hoped that some magic would happen to fix the problem -- no dice. Started vibrating on the way home form the dealer.
  • ken594ken594 Posts: 1
    My 01 Toyo Taco V-6 4 dr (70K miles) won't shift into third gear until I drive about a mile each morning and warm the eng/tran up a bit. Anyone have any ideas?

    Also is there an accessible trans oil line on the radiator that I could drain the trans oil. Just want to change the ATF not the filter...
  • lavoielavoie Posts: 11
    For the "bad eggs" smelling, check this:

    TSB EG034-05
  • lavoielavoie Posts: 11
    you could give a look to this:

    TSB AX004-05
  • to sam452, i have a 02 civic that is requiring new struts now at 97000 mi, and according to the owners manual i will need timing belt at about 104,000 mi , struts are about $500 including required alinement and the timing belt with required new water pump about $400 . i have looked at the 05 tacomas( i want one so bad i can taste it) and it says nothing about timing belt replacement on the internets(EDMUNDS LIST OF REQUIRED MAINTENANCE) according to toyota. the hondas as i understand it all have the freeze up engine issue you are liable for it if the timing belt breaks BIG NEGATIVE TO AN OTHERWISE GOOD LINE OF VEHICLES. I understand toyota have timing chains without the freeze up engine issue there is a name for the difference in the engines from honda and toyota,i have seen it stated in previous posts on the toyoyta tacoma site. my next vehicle will be a toyota if for no other reason than the engine issue. my question to Edmunds would be are these issues taken into consideration when the true cost to own are added up. any input would be appreciated : :
  • toyo05toyo05 Posts: 1
    Have your dealer call a norhtern dealer or even better a canadian dealer, toyota makes a block heater . have one in my 05. they should be able to give you the part number. by the way it is identical to the one in the 03, 04 05 4runner with the 4.0 engine
  • Have a 2005 Tacoma 4wd/V6...does anyone know where the fuel filter is located?
    Think I may have had some dirty gas and wanted to replace it.
    Someone told me it's in the fuel tank but I can't Toyota would be that foolish!
  • I have a 05 tacoma dc ,has anyone had problems with lifter type noise in the 4.0? dealer say it is noise from exhaust ports into manifolds,sounds like a truck w/200k,mine has 3000 miles on it,any info would be great.

    Thanks Scott
  • I have a 05 tacoma dc ,has anyone had problems with lifter type noise in the 4.0? dealer say it is noise from exhaust ports into manifolds,sounds like a truck w/200k,mine has 3000 miles on it,any info would be great.

    Thanks Scott
  • Mine sounds the same...
  • eaglegeagleg Posts: 87
    Mine sounds the same.As long as it's under warranty,I'm not going to worry about it.I think if it was a problem,it wouldn't go as good as it does.
  • I have a 2002 Tacoma 4x, 24000 miles, just started vibrating badly last week intermittently when doing 65 - 80 or so. When you slow down by braking, you feel the shimmy through the brake pedal. If you then accelerate again, life is good. Only does this occasionally (1 - 2 times per 60 miles trip), no obvious grease, etc coming off the front wheels (it feels like it's coming from the front), but when it happens, it can scare the whee out of you!

    Had the dealer check it as I just went through the ball joint recall and had hoped that some magic would happen to fix the problem -- no dice. Started vibrating on the way home form the dealer. Someone on the board has suggested wheel bearings (why would it be intermittent then?) Any other suggestions? Thanks for the help!
  • Sorry I did not explain that very well. I had two vibration problems. When it was first worked on it was a solid problem and that was fixed by the road force balance. The problem then became intermittent. After fighting it for a few months I discovered that it was wind sensitive. In my case you had to have a head wind or one from the right.. At he present time I have my skid plate off and have driven about 500 miles with zero problems. I have a new plate at the dealers that has reinforcement bars in it.
  • hey y'all... hoping for some help... i have a 2wd 95 manual... and some problems...

    i think that the first one it pretty minor... but i'm planning on doing some regular maintenance on the truck this saturday and figure that this is a good time to try to fix some things... so i have a squeaky fan... and by that i mean that when i turn on the fan... there is a squeaking that seems to be coming from the vents (so probably from under the hood)... what should i do about it?

    the second is a continuation of a previous problem that i had posted... i get an occasional grinding when i shift into any of the odd (1,3,5) gears... it is as if i have let the clutch out before the gears were engaged and i were trying to push them together at disfunctional speeds... and here's the new part... i realized the other night that the lock that holds the stick in place... i.e. in the gears that i choose... is non-existent... i can put the truck into first... take my foot off the clutch... and then just as easily;y pull the stick out of first... what does this mean?.. is it connected to my grinding shifts?.. and what should i do?..

    and finally... my clutch pedal occasionally sticks about two centimeters before it's usual resting height... it is not sticking in an engaged position yet... what should i do?..

  • Update: Have had it back to the dealer twice -- he now says that the rear drums are warped, due to one side of the emergency brake sticking. Says that the dragging emergency brake heats up the rear brakes, does the shimmy, and when you slow (or use the brake) they release, causing the "intermittent" shake. Why they didn't catch that when investigating the front brakes (just replaced last week with the ball joint recall) is beyond me. Should be able to pick it up tomorrow afternoon. Not having a good feeling about this...
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    Fan- if you're talking about the air circulation fan, it may be accessible under the hood near the firewall, or in the cabin behind the glovebox (where it is in the '05). i don't know which on the '95. Squeak is probably bad bearings (bushings) of the motor shaft. You might get some relief with lubricant, but it's not a given.

    Being able to push the stick out of gear is not unusual. You just don't want it popping out on its own. Have you tried the earlier diagnostic suggestions?

    Clutch pedal- check for dirt and lack of lube in the linkage. Check for stretched return spring. You might clean the linkage with electronics (spray) cleaner, then try a lube.
  • My '91 2 WD Toyota Pickup (automatic) recently (develped about 10 days ago) had a problem: during cold start, it won't go up 2nd gear. It states on 1st gear for, maybe more than 10- 5 minutes, then it can shift up to 2nd gear. Once it is in 2nd gear, it has no problem to go all the way to overdrive. The transmission fluid level is OK, and the fluid has been changed late 2005. It has about 130K miles on it. I suspect there may be some sensor problem, as it is able to shift up once the time (or I believe the temperature of the fluid is at opearting level, or maybe pressure??). But I'm not sure. Would appreciate any help or advice.
  • stuntstunt Posts: 3
    I'm puzzled by the fact that the service technician said to buy sand bags and put them in the bed of the truck. Does your truck have a lot of bed bounce? In 1998, after my beloved 1991 Toyota truck was totalled in an accident on my way into work, I decided to visit some dealerships searching for a new truck. I test drove every compact truck on the market. My test drive included driving down the same bumpy roads and the same windy highways. The focus of my test drive was on 4 trucks: the Toyota Tacoma (with the TRD off-road package, which was first installed in the 1998 models), the Dodge Dakota (the first year they looked like the Dodge Rams), the GMC Sierra, and the Ford Ranger also with the off-road package. Test drive after test drive I kept coming back to the Toyota. It performed the best by far! The Ford Ranger was way too stiff. I almost lost control of the Dodge Dakota on a bumpy road due to extreme side to side bed bounce, and the GMC felt too small. In 1998, the Toyota Racing Development (TRD) off-road package on the Tacoma differed from the standard Tacoma without the off-road package in 4 main ways. The off-road package consisted of the larger 16-inch wheel rims and the 30-inch tires, heavy-duty suspension springs, heavy-duty sway bars, and heavy-duty Bilstein shock absorbers. Bilstein shocks are a brand name shock absorber that is designed to eliminate bed bounce. I had them on my 1991 Toyota truck before it was totaled. They truly did eliminate bed bounce. It made for a more comfortable ride. But, where I really noticed the Bilsteins is whenever I stopped, especially when I had to break hard. The rear wheels stayed on the ground. They didn't bounce a lot. Therefore, stopping was easier. Right after my test drives, I read an article in 4 X 4 magazine where they compared the Ford Ranger to the Toyota Tacoma in off-road tests. The Ranger only performed well when the bed of the truck was fully loaded. The Tacoma performed well whether the bed was unloaded, half loaded, or fully loaded. Bed load didn't matter. I think it was due to the Bilstein shocks. By the way, Ford now insatalls Bilstein shocks on their off-road packages. This is why I'm puzzled by the service technician's comments. Does Toyota no longer use the Bilstein shocks in their off-road package? It's really easy to tell. Look at your shock absorbers. Bilstein shocks are a distinctive yellow and powder blue color. If your Tacoma doesn't have Bilsteins, trying buying a set of four. They usually run about $60 for the front pair and $60 each for the rear. You can find them online at Performance Products ( Don't bother with the sand bags unless you need them for driving in the snow and you want a little extra weight in your bed. See if this helps. Good luck.
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    The stiffer the system (tires, springs and frame) and the higher the unsprung mass (wheel/tire/axle weight) the rougher the ride will be for a given "sprung mass" (the portion above the springs). The shocks are hydraulic dampers which minimize subsequent cycles of bounce for a given bump, but the more damping in the shock, the rougher the bump will feel for a given weight above the springs. Even if the truck has an unusually good ride when empty, it will ride "smoother" if you add weight to the bed. The stiffness of the springs and the damping of the shocks have to be sufficient for the full load rating, and this makes them stiffer than they would have to be for the empty bed. Adding weight will bring it closer to the optimum. -That's why the tech suggested it. However, that may just mask the fact that something isn't as good as it should be. In other words, it'll improve, but should it still be better than it is when empty (as in comparison to Stunt's description). Carrying around extra weight that isn't needed will give you a nice ride and even better handling, but at the cost of stop and go fuel mileage. (You burn extra fuel to accelerate the extra weight to speed, and you dump the energy into heat at the brakes when you slow down or stop. )
  • derf5derf5 Posts: 1
    my 96 tacoma 2wd 2.7l 152k miles runs great but have starting problems when very hot outside and i use airconditioner wait 15-20min or open hood and starts ok and runs ok- fuel injected --replaced fuel filter- plugs-wires suspect iat sensor but seems within specs mass air flow sen clean---runs perfect when not hot anyone with this problem or suggestions!!!! derf5
  • So I just had my 60K Mi maintanence done at a local shop I've been taking my 2001 Toyota Taco (4X4, Ext cab, V6, Manual).

    After the maintanence, all was well except for a distinctive odor that is either front diff fluid or manual transmission fluid. I had my Taco up on the rack with the guy and everything up there is dry as a bone with no visible leaks. I thought it was maybe that he just spilled some fluid and that it was just burning off but it has been 5 weeks and I suspect there is a problem.

    The odor started when I rolled out of the driveway after the maintanence. It occurs only when you take off in first gear; it does not occur if you just rev the engine in neutral or at a stop. The odor also occurs if you mash the gas pedal in just about any gear. You can only smell it if you drive with one or both windows down.

    My gut feeling is that the shop I took it to disconnected a breather hose or element somewhere but hell if I can see or find it.

    Any help?

  • I have a 5 speed with approximately 70,000 miles. I recently started having problems with my truck which initially felt like a flat tire. I have been driving 10 mph, 30 mph, and the last episode was at 60 mph. I start to lose speed without braking while driving so I pull off the side of the road and it feels like a tire is going flat. I get out, walk around the truck, and no tire is flat but I smell something of a burning smell coming from under the hood. The last episode I got back into the truck and tried to take off but I could not go forward or in reverse for a few minutes. It felt like I had the emergency brake on, but I did not. I sat for a few minutes wondering who to call if I am stranded and then I try to drive forward again. It takes off fine, and I made it home. I switched vehicles with my dad last week and he has had the same thing happen twice. He said tonight it feels like the brakes are kicking in while driving and it doesn't make any sense to him. Anyone have an idea on what this could be? It happens to randomly it's hard to pin-point the issue.
  • stuntstunt Posts: 3
    I recently purchased a used 2001 Toyota Tacoma 4WD V-6 manual transmission with 50,000 miles on it. I purchased the vehicle from my brother, so I know the history of it. Not long after I owned it, the truck would jerk as if the engine wanted to stall but doesn't. Some times the jerking is subtle. Some times the jerking is very strong. This typically occurs after a minimum 20 mile drive on the highway followed by a drive on the side roads at approximately 45 to 50 mph. The jerking can become so bad, the truck is almost impossible to drive. Unfortunately, this problem is intermittent and never seems to really occur while it is at the dealership being inspected. I can drive for a few days without it happening. Then one day, there it goes again. I'm not certain, but it does seem to happen the day after I fill up the fuel tank. To date, this truck has been seen by three dealerships and experts at one of Toyota's tech centers. Because the check engine light isn't on and there are no codes, they can't seem to figure out the problem. They have inspected the spark plugs and wires, the fuel injectors, the fuel itself (they drained the fuel tank), all of the hoses, flushed the fuel system, etc. While at one dealership, the truck jerked slightly on them when driving at 45 mph. They replaced the mass air-flow sensor. It seemed to work at first. Then it started jerking again. They called in the experts from the tech center. They were at a loss. They decided that the ECU was out of calibration and that the fuel air mixture was not correct between 35 and 55 mph. They recalibrated the ECU. Note they put the old mass air-flow sensor back on the truck. The truck functioned correctly for one day. The next day, after filling up my fuel tank, I experienced the worst and most frequent jerking ever. I took it to the dealership again. It has been running fine for them for 3 days. Friends have suggested to me that it could be the ignition coil, the EGR valve, the air fuel ratio sensor in the intake valve, the vacuum, etc. Unfortunately, if the dealership can't really experience the symptoms, they aren't willing to go on a wild goose chase to figure it out. I can't say I blame them. Has anyone else ever experienced this problem or have any suggestions?
  • I am having the same problem with my 2002 Tacoma.
    I put a new master cylinder on it. it was OK for 2 months. now the front brakes are heating up once more. After it sit 5 minutes it is ok. If you find a fix please let me know. I am thinking maybe the brake boster is sticking??
  • Your front calipers and/or pistons in the calipers might be hanging up. After applying the brakes, the caliper(s) doesn't allow the pads to fully disengage from the rotor. This causes heat build up that causes the brakes to "lock up". The next time it happens, check the front wheels for excessive heat or a smell coming from the hot brake pads.

    The fix may be as simple as cleaning up the caliper mounting bolts and slides or or rebuild or replacement of the caliper(s). Good luck.
  • msibillemsibille Posts: 275
    In addition to ftoften's advice, sometimes the lining of the hose will break and collapse, forming a crude check valve that prevents the fluid from draining back completely. This keeps the calipers partially energized. It will rapidly bake (ruin) your linings, and after sufficient time, damage the caliper. ($$$) More often than not though, if it's the hose to the caliper, it will occur on only one, resulting in the vehicle pulling to that side, particularly when you let off the accelerator. If both calipers are staying energized, then I would go w/ the earlier suggestions first.

    If the calipers are sticking, you need to check them carefully for signs of overheating (heat tint). If overheated, replace -don't rebuild. Also, the calipers should be replaced in pairs.

    My '84 FORD trash Ranger had this (among many things) happen. One caliper stuck, resulting in a hard pull to that side. By the time I could get somewhere to get it on the rack, the caliper was cooked. New hoses, calipers, and linings later, and I was on the road to experience a number of other defects in the vehicle...
  • I have the same problem on a 2002. It's axlewrap. Been driving me crazy also. The fix is traction bars. There are some on the market. There are non specific I can find for the Prerunner. Some made for off road, pretty big and expensive.
    To verify the problem fix, I bolted an angle iron to the axle u-bolts and secured it to the forward spring hangers. Stopped it dead. Smoothed out the up shift and stopped the shifter from jumping. This limits the axle movement so I'm going to use stabalizer bars out of a late 90s camaro and attach them from the axle u-bolts to a space 3' in front of the forward spring hangers. These have rubber bushings in both ends to help get away from having metal to metal.
    Toyota hasn't got a clue. I brought mine in and they gave me a new tranny????
  • The rear drums on my 2002 had to be replaced right away. I think it was a bad lot.
    Heading for the ball joint gig next week.
  • maxx7maxx7 Posts: 3
    Actually I read the post by eddablow that said to go to hunter wheel balance web site.
    #1608 of 1642 Re: Vibration problem 2005 Tacoma 4x4 [wyck] by eddablow

    I found a Toyota dealer near me that had the 9700 road force balancer. The dealer said, “the factory balances the tires, and usually they are accurate”. But we will rebalance them anyway. They did and it seems smoother. We took it on a 200 mile round day trip. It was mostly good.
This discussion has been closed.