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Toyota Tacoma: Problems & Solutions
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Is this a defect?
Charles
Charles
Or get an autodimming mirror. Got my Homelink autodimming mirror on Ebay for $130. It has convenient garage door opening buttons built in. No need for a remote on the visor.
Check my CarDomain for info on installing a Homelink mirror.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/832238
But I think this is how it goes:
With the ignition key on ACC, set your odometer on mileage(not trip a or b) then turn key off. then hold they button that switchs from odo and trip, then turn the key back to acc. while you are holding it down you will notice the maintenance light blink and go out, and then you are done.
First time posting here, hoping someone can shed some light on an issue that I've been having with my truck:
I have a 2005 Tacoma Double Cab, non TRD, 2x4.
When the frame is twisted (even just slightly) with the left side down/right side up (or vice versa), there is a metal click that happens. At first I thought it was a front right suspension thing but I'm pretty sure it isn't. I had a friend help me try and figure out where it was coming from and he thought he pinpointed it to the passenger side front bumper to frame mount (3 bolt mount). I tried to see if any of the bolts were loose but they all seemed pretty tight.
Anyone have any experience with this or ideas of what to do next? (Dealer already went searching for it and was unsuccessful... they say they'll have a factory rep look at it but I get the feeling they're stalling). THANKS
If all else fails with this Dealer call 1-800-contact that is a number to TMS (Toyota Motor Sales) they may help you get your problem resolved but be sure to be polite threw the whole prosses you WILL GET BETTER RESULTS if you will make your e-mail public I might can give you more info I have a bit of exclusive knowledge about this brand of truck
TACOMA's ARE ABSOLUTELY UNRELIABLE. After I get this fixed, I'm fearing if this should occur on a busy Interstate someday, if given a choice, NEVER EVER buy a Tacoma outside of factory warranty. I am waiting for the dealer now to call me and give me a new estimate...
My original post:
begin"
#1783 02 XC, 42K will not start- pump/computer bad - true? by ben2002 Jan 17, 2006 (8:12 am)
Bookmark | Reply | E-mail Msg
Hi Guys, I have a problem with my 02, XC, 42k, pre-runner. On sunday, with ~40F ambient, my truck would not start at all, it would crank well but did not start. I tried everything mentioned in the manual (alleviate flooding etc), but nothing worked. No use using a jump because the battery looked healthy. Eventually I had it towed to a dealer on Monday at 8AM, the guys there spent the whole day trying to diagnose the problem, at 5PM, they called me - it's "partially" the onboard computer and "partially" the fuel pump to blame. Since the onboard computer is still under warranty ( I think 60k) and I have a 6yr/100k extended warranty passed on from the owner, I didnt care to ask what "partially" means...but this was surprising to me because its too early for the pump and computer to die. And I am not questioning the dealers diagnosis because they had quite a number of people look at it. Has anyone experienced a similar problem this early or is that an isolated case. I am troubled with this experience, Toyota is much much better, I am sure.
end"
Sorry to hear of your trouble.
Did anyone clean the fuel tank?
Generally, it's good practice to keep the fuel tank as full as possible. Not only in these days of emergencies (both natural and maniacal) but because, particularly in cooler weather, condensation accummulates in the fuel tank. The more air in the tank (i.e. lower fuel level) the more moisture that will condense in the tank.
Having said this, all water and trash generally will accummulate in the bottom of the tank (gasoline is less dense). Once the float and pickup get very low, the chance of sucking in water or trash increases. Fill the tank full and he pickup is higher in the tank and gets a light flushing.
It is also possible that there is a crack of leak in the pickup. The leak may be submerged when the tank is at higher levels, but when the arm is near the bottom of the travel, the leak may be exposed to the air. THis could allow some air to be entrained in the pickup, resulting in low fuel pressure.
Hope some of this helps.
good luck.
I have the same problem with my 05 Tacoma and mine has 20k miles on it... I was just told by the service manager at the toyota dealership in Cumberland, MD he read a post on it and you are NEVER going to believe this, he asked me what my skid plate was like, asked if it was the black one.. he said something with the aero dynamics and how it is mounted below, that yours will most likely need replaced... Let me know how you make out with this... Is a shame you had all of that done unecessarily....
Read what I just wrote kdea... talk to your service dept. about having your skid plate replaced... if they read their postings, they will have heard about this by now.. if not, contact Toyota in Cumberland Md. They will tell you... they are up on all of this.. Good luck.
Thanks for any info Gone1167
Gone1167
I bought the truck for $9,000 from a woman who originally was asking $15,000, I was told that it had fender damage that was repaired, on signing the papers was informed that it has a branded title. The truck looks and runs great, all though I have been waiting to find the reason she came down on the price so much, as far as I can tell the only problem is the Gas mileage. Any idea's or suggestions.
If I put it in neutral or I drive it on the road it runs prfect. Can you help me? I have changed idle air control system and i believe the idle control sensor.
I just don't know.
Heeeeelp
cj
Then the other day, on the highway I had let it warm up for a little bit, and when I turned on the heater, the engine lost power but didn't stall. I called AAA, and they came. During the time I was waiting, the truck started up fine and I moved it a little bit further off the highway. I got it towed again to the same dealer.
The Dealer said it was something in the fuel system and replaced the sub tank, a suction hose and a suction gasket. Only problem is, I looked at the paper work and they wrote down that "truck stalled and would not restart", so I think they basically grasped at something to repair to "make me happy". The service advisor basically told me and my husband that the truck should catch on fire before the engine stalls out if there is an electrical problem. Great. I feel REAL safe.
Oh yeah, and I had recently noticed the burning smell again pretty badly and the mpg had again dropped a little bit (I have gotten it back up to around 20-21, but this tank was probably about 18 again).
Does anyone else have any similar problems?
Thanks Bunches ;p
Now as for your question- as I often told my kids- Look it up. You have an owner's manual, don't you? Outside of that, the panels have labels.
TACOMA BUYERS: BE WARNED - DO NOT EXPECT TOYOTA RELIABILITY FROM TOYOTA TACOMA TRUCKS - THEY ARE ABSOLUTELY UNRELIABLE, TOYOTA MAKES JUNK IN THE NAME OF TACOMA's (2002)
My previous posts:
"
Its been just 17 days and my Tacoma has the same problem all over again. ~30F ambient this morning, the motor turned but would not start, had AAA tow it to the same dealer. One thing I noticed is that my gas level is almost the same everytime I have this $700 problem, its halfway between the last quarter and E on the guage? Bad floater? Now What? With a new onboard computer, fuel pump, what's wrong? Anyone with a similar 02XC, 2.7L have similar problems.
TACOMA's ARE ABSOLUTELY UNRELIABLE. After I get this fixed, I'm fearing if this should occur on a busy Interstate someday, if given a choice, NEVER EVER buy a Tacoma outside of factory warranty. I am waiting for the dealer now to call me and give me a new estimate...
My original post:
begin"
#1783 02 XC, 42K will not start- pump/computer bad - true? by ben2002 Jan 17, 2006 (8:12 am)
Bookmark | Reply | E-mail Msg
Hi Guys, I have a problem with my 02, XC, 42k, pre-runner. On sunday, with ~40F ambient, my truck would not start at all, it would crank well but did not start. I tried everything mentioned in the manual (alleviate flooding etc), but nothing worked. No use using a jump because the battery looked healthy. Eventually I had it towed to a dealer on Monday at 8AM, the guys there spent the whole day trying to diagnose the problem, at 5PM, they called me - it's "partially" the onboard computer and "partially" the fuel pump to blame. Since the onboard computer is still under warranty ( I think 60k) and I have a 6yr/100k extended warranty passed on from the owner, I didnt care to ask what "partially" means...but this was surprising to me because its too early for the pump and computer to die. And I am not questioning the dealers diagnosis because they had quite a number of people look at it. Has anyone experienced a similar problem this early or is that an isolated case. I am troubled with this experience, Toyota is much much better, I am sure.
end"
"
Piston slap is also known as "Cold Morning Knock" or "Cold Knock" and it is a rattling sound during a start up when the weather is cold and the car has been sitting over night.
If you want to learn more about it and hear the sound, goto www.pistonslap.com
I have a '99 tacoma with 67k and it started doing that recently, after five years of no problems in the past. The service dept at a toyota dealer finally heard the noise and diagnosed it as a "piston slap" and said it is normal, nothing to worry about, will not affect the durability of my car. However, it IS a big deal! and I am finding out that I am not the only one with a piston slap problem (although the manager claims I am). So, I am making a list of toyota owners with this problem to present to the Toyota itself and see what they will do about it.
Ford and Chrysler have already replaced thousands of engines b/c they recognize it as a big problem where as GM is refusing to do the same for their customers.
If you're having the same problems and want Toyota to do something about it, email me and be on my list.
toyotapistonslap@hotmail.com
Thanks, Kim.
1-Did anyone clean the fuel tank?
(As noted in earlier response, it's good practice to keep the fuel tank as full as possible. In cooler weather, condensation accummulates in the fuel tank. The more air in the tank (i.e. lower fuel level) the more moisture that will condense in the tank. )
2-Also, water and trash generally will accummulate in the bottom of the tank (gasoline is less dense). Once the float and pickup get very low, the chance of sucking in water or trash increases. Fill the tank full and he pickup is higher in the tank and gets a light flushing.
3-It is also possible that there is a crack or leak in the pickup. The leak may be submerged when the tank is at higher levels, but when the arm is near the bottom of the travel, the leak may be exposed to the air. This could allow some air to be entrained in the pickup, resulting in low fuel pressure.
If your observation that it only happens in the last 1/8 of a tank is correct, that's a pretty good clue. Does it solve the prblem if you merely fill the tank?
If you add only a gallon, does that immediately solve the prblm?(If so, then maybe the gage is off)
If one gallon doesn't solve it, but a fillup does, maybe you have water/trash in the tank and it merely needs flushing and a new filter.
I agree w earlier posts, if you haven't tried another mechanic or Toy shop, you shouldn't give up yet. After all,what are you going to do? -Sell it at a loss when you disclose it to the purchaser? (I did that with the pathetic Ford Ranger I bought in 1984, after fighting it for years. The guys bought it from me at a price that he could afford to replace the engine -and he finally did.) Or are you going to rip someone by selling them a faulty truck w/o disclosing it (which may be what happened to you)?
Regardless, about 20K ago I purchased new tires and this made a huge huge HUGE! difference. I purchased Michellin tires, same size as the stock Gyears. I noticed right away that my my mileage seemed better, then I started to track it. I have been keeping an Excel sheet for the past year or so and I am now at an average mileage of 22.8 MPG with a standard deviation of 0.5 MPG These tires (about $600 installed) have literally paid for themselves in gas savings. = +5 MPG is about 150 extra miles per tank ca/ 5-6 gallons is about $12.00 per tank I am saving in gas. That was 20K miles ago, which is about $600 in gas savings. I didn't believe this until I started tracking all of my mileage etc. etc.
Also, just to put the issue to rest, because I know it is B.S I used premium gasoline for 4 months straight and my mileage didn't change one iota... statistically speaking. It didn't run better and the only thing I was out was an extra $0.15 a gallon...
Buy new tires. These were Mich 255 75R15 LTX SUV tires with 5x rating for water. They are a driving tire, not an offroad tire, they are quiet, stick like glue and handle about 1000x better than the OEM Goodyears. I was blown away and wouldn't have believed it unless I had kept the data.
Thanks, John
In my area Ohio Generator does this stuff.
John Gone1167