Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Isuzu Owners Maintenance and Repair



  • cwmosercwmoser Posts: 227
    More on Oil Sludge at

    Yes, we purchased our last 2 vehicles, 1999 Trooper, and 1999 Toyota Sienna, with the thinking that we were buying high quality maintenace free, and long lasting vehicles. I'm pretty sure we were right with the Trooper, but from the numerous items I found on the Internet when I did a search on "Toyota Oil Sludge" and "Sienna Oil Sludge" has made me think that the *perception* I had of Toyota was completely wrong. I don't have a sludge problem in our Sienna and hope it does not occur but a friend of mine says his Sienna has been diagnosed as being "sludged". My perception of Toyota was that you pay a little more for a vehicle, even though it lacked many creature conforts of similar vehicles, and you get Toyota's vaulted reliability where you can drive your Toyota well past 150,000 miles relatively trouble free.

    This "Oil Sludge" problem, if indeed Toyota has a design problem, could turn out to be massive consumer migration away from Toyota because of perceived reliability problems.

    Our Sienna has 49,000 miles on it and has always used regular 10w30 -- think Synthetic Oil makes sense now?

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I believe they are starting to get the Honda effect, which was that in the 80s and early 90s Honda made outstanding cars, then in the mid-late 90s they realized they could slack off and people would still buy them even at higher prices, due to their reputation. I feel Toyota has started to fall into this same cycle. :(

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I'd go with synthetic on it personally.

  • cwmosercwmoser Posts: 227
    Would you start with Synthetic Oil at 49,000 miles?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I just put my dad's legacy with 60K miles on it and his hyundai sonata on it with 50K. If you get oil leaks you may need to go back to non-synthetic, but you shouldn't get any leaks.

  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    I switched current Rodeo at 58,000 miles. I also switched others at 50,000, 30,00 etc. Leaks no, but seepage may or may not occur but if it does it may also go away after 5000 miles as the oil cleans up the gunk and seals again. Seepage rarely drips to ground. My Isuzu seeped prior to purchase with dino so synthetic was not the cause.

    On the Rodeo first change was at 3000 after synthetic put in, analysis fine then went to 7,500 analysis still fine but due to shorter trips I may stick with the 7,500 between changes. Used about 1/2 quart during the 7,500 period which is maybe use and seepage. Minimal.

    Run another car to 12,000 mile changes. My 92 Camry V6 goes 7,500 between changes (141,000 miles now) another once a year but that is 8-10,000 miles only.
  • cwmosercwmoser Posts: 227
    None of the following vehicles have used synthetic oil:

    1983 Mercedes - 34,000 miles
    1999 Isuzu Trooper - 35,000 miles
    1999 Toyota Sienna - 49,000 miles

    Again, all appear to be mechanically ok but have never used synthetic oil. Would you go with say Mobil-1 in all of these?

    Also, is Mobil-1 synthetic really a better oil as far as elimination of oil sludge buildup?

    Also - synthetic in an 18hp lawn tractor that does not use an oil filter?
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    But when I started using synthetics 10 years ago I never believed the claims of exctended drains. So, I started by changing the oil and 3000 and having it analyzed and have gradually built up a comfort level so that based upon the type of driving on a particular car I can determine when to change. Other then my twin turbo toy the minimum interval for me is 7,500 miles and that includes two daily commuters. More highway car goes to 12,000. My toy because it is a twin trubo and gets liitle use is 5000 but that has now or will be a year since the last change.

    I would switch to synthetic on any engine under 100,000. Over that and running fine I may leave it alone. On the Sienna, due to the many reports of sludging on these I would probably go 5000-7,500 between changes. Mobil 1 is a fine oil. I use Amsoil only because I started with it and the person I get it from has inventory, no shipping charges, and for my $20/year fee I get it for $4.35/qt. With 5 cars to service it is worth it for me.

    The 97 Rodeo I switched at 58,000 is running fine. It did and does have a yellowish coating on in the oil filler neck area and inside of the valve cover that I was hoping the synthetic would remove, not sludge but a very fine varnish so to speak. To date after 14,000 miles of synthetic usage the color is still there but runs fien and analysis has been fine.

    The engine had two oil seepages upon purchase which remain with the synthetic, I just can't seem to locate where they are coming from, one above the alternator and another above the oil pan. Oh well, it is pretty minimal seepage.
  • cwmoser - Edmunds has a great discussion going in the Town Hall forums about Synthetic Oils. It is located under the maintenance and repair topic. After going through these, I was convinced that synthetics are the way to go and Mobil 1 was good choice considering the quality for the cost. Anyway you may want read through that discussion if this interest you.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    most folks who are interested in, or knowledgeable about, synthetic oil will say that it's fine to switch on lower-mileage engines. This means different mileage to different people, but at 50k miles or so you are probably safe to switch, as armtdm has pointed out.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    I am still a big proponent of Toyota and Honda vehicles, having owned a rock-solid '91 Camry (never should have sold it) and driven an '89 CRX Si that lasted 170k miles. If buying a new or late-model used vehicle today, I would give strong consideration to both brands. But I totally agree with paisan's post #1381. It's hard for an average consumer to prove, but my perception is that Toyota and Honda vehicles have fallen off in two major areas:

    1) Initial quality - For example, the 1992-1996 Camry is widely regarded in the automotive press to be built better, with higher-quality materials, than the new model that replaced it in '97. The '92-'96 Camry is much closer to the same-year Lexus ES300 than the '97-'01 Camry.

    2) Long-term quality/reliability - Over the long run, I don't think the current Toyotas and Hondas are holding up as well as their mid '80s to mid '90s brethren. My perception is that there more problems are popping up with the newer vehicles than on the earlier vehicles.

    I agree with paisan on the reason why this has happened: Honda and Toyota realized they could cut a few corners and produce vehicles of lower quality, but still gain market share from other brands, especially the American brands.

    Like fiveharpers, my preference is to identify and purchase vehicles such as the Trooper that provide high quality/long-term reliability at a lower initial cost (i.e. better value) than the Hondas and Toyotas of the world. Several Nissans fit this bill, as do some of the Subarus (though they've gotten rather pricey in the last 3-4 years.).

    When it comes time to replace our 98 Trooper with a minivan, I have my eye on the first-generation Honda Odyssey/Isuzu Oasis. Much cheaper, and from what I can tell, much better quality than the current-generation Honda Odyssey.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    Mark me down as another person who has heard plenty about this problem via the internet in the past couple years. It was shocking and disappointing to hear. The worst part is that Toyota seems to deny there is a design problem. This is not a total shock, though. A company like Toyota, which in my opinion has an even better reputation for quality than Honda, cannot afford to admit something like 'hey, the 3.0L V6 that's in lots of our vehicles has had sludge problems for the last 10 model years.'

    They should admit this, but most companies in their shoes probably would not.

    Is this problem just with the 3.0L V6 that's gone into the Camry and Sienna (and others?), or is it exhibited in other engines too?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    I believe hyundai is on it's way up as far as quality. Of all the people who have bought in the past 3-5 years I've heard little complaints about them and IMHO the XG300/350 has quite solid build quality. If I were going to buy a commuter car today, it would almost definitely be a low end hyundai. The price/performance is there.

  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    Aren't some Toyota engines GM's? I thought I read something about that somewhere? I don't know if it is the sludge'rs in question, but maybe there is a correlation?
  • sdc2sdc2 Posts: 780
    I too felt that Hyundai was making big strides in improving the quality of their vehicles...then I read a recent article about numerous engine failures in the Santa Fe SUVs.

    Hopefully they will stand behind their warranty and fix the problems, unlike Toyota is apparently doing with this sludge deal.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    Agree with paisan - Hyundai quality is really improving. I am positive on several of their vehicles: XG350, Santa Fe, Sonata, and Elantra. The Elantra GT 5-door is a TREMENDOUS value - $13k base price for a lot of equipment and 140hp). Great warranty, low price, plus improving quality = good choice.

    If we buy a new vehicle in the next couple years I will be considering Hyundai. I also will probably consider the new Kia Sedona minivan. Sounds like a great package for the money.

    The Santa Fe engine issues concerns me, though this is the first I've heard of it. Hyundai is now putting the Santa Fe's 2.7L V6 in the Sonata but that's a new change for MY 2002, IIRC.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    If Hyundai brings over the Terracan, I'll definitely be buying that. :)

  • I have had this annoying rattle/tapping in the front windshield for over a year on my 2000 Trooper Ltd. It sounds like metal being tapped against the front windshield. It is effected by the amount of wind, since I hear it more when I passing a truck or the faster I go. It only occurs when the temperature is lower then 45 degrees and at speeds over 60MPH. This makes me think it's something rubber (modling around windshield) which gets harder in the cold and begins to tap. This does not occur when the temperature is over 45 degrees.

    It actually sounds like metal tapping against the outside windshield. I have had it back to dealer at least 3 times. They have never been able to reproduce the sound which drives me crazy since I can typically produce the sound on demand when the conditions are right. I have tried to take matters into my own hands by adding adhesive to the front windshield outside molding thinking that's where the tap was coming from. This did not correct the problem. I have checked the hood, the side panels, just about everything I could think of. Nothing seems to work and I cant find anything loose. I checked the brake lines that run against the fire wall and they are tight. I checked any wires handing underneath the hood and underneath the car and they are all tight.

    The sound always takes me back to the front windshield..!

    On my last visit to the dealership for a State Inspection/Oil Change ect, the best they could tell me is that Isuzu has reported that there is a "spot weld" problem in the front pillars with some of the 2000 Troopers and that there was no reported fix. That can be the cause of my sound. Sounds like a heap of [non-permissible content removed] to me.

    Any idea's.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Did you have the fuel line recall done? There were some reports that in cold weather the fuel line was tapping against the firewall. Also could it be something loose under the dash? Someone on here had a screw under the dash loose that sound like a metal tapping. The weld thing does sound likea crock.

  • My gut feeling on the overall decline in reliability of all vehicles over the past six years is the enormous amount of electronics, sensors and computers within the vehicles of today. So many more points of failure. The transmissions have so much going on inside depending on sensors and computers that a glitch somewhere may lead to all kinds of real damage. The other theory I have is when the economy was so good that the car manufacturers felt new cars would sell fast and consistently, so they could cut corners to produce better profits instead of better products.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    I disagree. I think cars have only gotten better. Some arguements can be made that some manufacturers have slipped, or that some would rather fix a problem after sale than change production lines.

    Overall I don't think we are seeing a product that is worse or less reliable than 5-10 years ago. Forget about mid-80's, taken as a whole, I think it is much better.
  • Where did you apply the adhesive and what type of adhesive did you apply?
  • Yes, I believe I had the fuel line recall done. Is that where they put the skid plates under the fuel lines (underneath the car) to better protect them in a collision ? If so, yes, I had it done.
    Someone (it might have been you pasian) recommended I check the fuel lines and break lines awhile back. I did. They are very tight where they run right up against the fire wall.. as best I could tell anyway.

    I did have a loose screw under the dash that sounded like an alarm clock. (on the drivers side) They literally had to take my entire dash board apart to find it. It turned out to be the mounting screw behind the speedometer had worked it's way loose. Again, only in cold weather and at higher RPM's. Boy was that a bear to find. It sounded like the buzzing of an alarm clock.

    I used a standard clear epoxy for windshield molding. I believe it's holding pretty well. I guess I can always take it to a glass shop to have them take off and remount the entire front windshield but I am not convinced that's what it is. Reason being is I can't repeat the sound by pushing, pulling or tapping anything myself. I have to be on the highway, 60 Mph+, 45 degrees or colder.

    Thanks for any input.

  • Sorry "keepontroopin" as I didn't answer your question completely.

    I applied the adhesive to the entire bottom molding that runs the length of the front windshield. I also worked my way up about 1/2 the way on each side (toward the roof). I lifted it up slightly with a screw driver and applied a think coat of glue. I then layed weights on top of the molding to hold it down while the glue set-up.

    It really made no difference in terms of tightening up the molding. From what the dealer tells me, it's supposed to be somewhat flexible and not rock hard. I asked them to reseat the windshield. Originally they agreed and I scheduled a time to have it done. When I took the truck in to have it complete, they called me and told me that the window people said it would make no difference if they reseated/re molded the front windshield since there was nothing wrong with the way it was currently installed. That's when I really felt like choking my service advisor at Davis Isuzu in Richboro, PA. I also felt like choking him when he told me about the spot weld crap. All in all, they are a pretty good dealership and service center. Don't forget, this is the dealership that completely repainted all 4 of my outer wheels wells when the paint got chipped off from a hunting/off roading trip in the mountains in Potter County, PA. So they are really not that bad.

    I noticed that there is some play in the molding about 5-6 inches in from either side along the bottom. I can push in and out on the black molding and produce a slight tapping sound. That's what was making me think it was the molding.

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    There were 2 recalls for the fuel lines. 1 was for the plates, the 2nd was for the actual lines IIRC.

    If you live near richboro, pa, you probably are near flemington subaru/isuzu in NJ. If that is the case, I'd take it to them, they so far have been the best Isuzu deal in PA/NJ/NY area I've found. They'll probably have a fix for you.

  • Do you have a bug guard on the front of your Trooper? I didn't when I bought mine but added one soon after. That's when i started to experience the same noise. It was super annoying and drove me nuts. I put up with it for three weeks and then said enough. I deternmined the slapping noise as I will describe it was coming from the plastic molding running up the window pillars on the windshield. Here is how you can test to see if it is the same for you. Run two pieces of duct tape along the plastic on the pillars with one side being attached to the plastic molding and the other side being attached to the windshield. Now go out and drive the car to reproduce the noise. If you still hear the noise.....I can't help. But if the noise is gone then remove the duct tape and look at the old posts on this issue. If you can't find the old posts let me know and I will re-write the solution.

    Hopefully you are hearing what I was and I can help you. Do you also hear the sound when you hit a BAD bump????
  • Spirolli,
    I had the same type noise on my 2000S Trooper. One suggestion on this board is to use screen-door spline to fill the gap between the A-post and the windshield, all the way up the post. I just filled that gap with some clear silicone sealant and the noise is gone. Apparently the wind hits that gap and makes that terrible sound....grinding, scraping??
    Try one of the above fixes.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    My 99 trooper had a tapping between 10 and 35 MPH when cold, below 40 degrees when it was new. It went away after the first year. I can't remember specifically what fixed it, but I think it was a can of dry gas. I think there was condensation that caused some noise when cold? Just a theory, but I am pretty sure I added a can and it went away?
  • Thanks so much for your input.

    keepontrooping- i will try that asap with the duct tape. i tried to seach on and look bad at the old posts but couldn't find the fix. if it's not too much trouble and when you have the time, can you please let me know what you did to correct the problem. you seem to hit the nail right on the head. i didn't have the noise when i first purchased the truck. it all started after i installed the bug guard. i know it's not the bug guard actually making the noise since i have used felt all around to make sure it won't make a sound. it must be the way the bug guard changes the air flow that causes the molding to make the tapping sound. God... i hope that's what it is.

    justdrivin- where did you find the information on how to fix the problem.? the silicon sounds like an easy fix. like i told keepontroopin, i can't wait to try the duct tape thing to see if it works. i am almost positive it will.

    i'll keep you both posted.

  • I had never heard of this problem on Troopers' until a few months ago. I have a 95 Trooper w/ 80+k on it. It runs great and I don't have any tapings or any other noises to speak of (actually I don’t have any problems with it what so ever :). My question is what model year did this start showing up in (or has it been in every 2nd gen model), and why?
Sign In or Register to comment.