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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair



  • 99max99max Posts: 1
    I am having the same problems with my 99 SEL manual. The problem is random and hard to duplicate. Is yours auto or manual? My symtoms accure at the same RPM range as your, but if yours is auto, then it could be faulty ECU. From other Maxima owners I have heard this. I will be taking my car to a trusted mechanic and will write on the results.
  • I have a 2000 Maxima SE with 43,000 miles, at 39,000 miles I started having to change sensors every month, now this time its the six injector coil work at $700.00 which I refuse to do. You can not tell me all 6 are bad, yet the dealer will only do all six or nothing. I called and wrote Nissan, and nothing. I will never, never buy another Nissan product. Their customer service is a crock.
  • YES! This is happening on my brand new SE, too. Not only is it constantly changing gears, but it seems to "pick" the wrong one quite frequently. Furthermore, it seems to get "stuck" on lower gears occassionally.

    VERY annoying.

  • roar1roar1 Posts: 193
    Yes, unfortunately, I still have my 2K GLE but not for long. I'm selling it at the end of this year and will probably get an Acura TL. I actually love the MAX....... when it is NOT IN THE SHOP !!!!! I've spent lots of $$$$$ on this thing.

    In my opinion, NO ONE should have to spend ANY money on a new car for the first 5 yrs./ 50/000 mi
    other than oil, tires and battery.

    I firmly believe that automotive quality, on all makes, peaked about 8-10 yrs. ago. It seems like everyone is having problems. Some Toyotas have oil sludge problems! Acura TL's have some transmission problems! VW has some ign. coil problems! Of course we are ALL familiar with Nissan's problems.

    Maybe the actual problem is the internet. The information age is so quick and efficient that we hear about things instantaneously. Anyhoo, good luck with your Toyota and wish me luck with my TL.
    ( I really think it's a crap shoot )
  • roar1roar1 Posts: 193
    One other thing. I've owned nothing but NIssans for 22 yrs. The ABSOLUTE BEST cars I've EVER, EVER owned were a 86 Maxima and even better was a 94 Altima ( made in the good ole' USA ).

    It goes back to what I said before. Quality and dependability are really slipping at Nissan.( and alot of other carmakers also ), and I am speaking from my WALLET.
  • suydamsuydam Posts: 3,240
    >Of course we are ALL familiar with Nissan's problems. <

    Not me. At least, not yet (don't want to jinx myself!). I have a 2001 GLE with 45,000 trouble-free miles. So far I have only replaced tires. If you look at Edmunds consumer reviews you get lots of glowing reports. This forum is for problems so naturally we get a skewed idea of how extensive the problems are. I had a Subaru Forester that was trouble from very early on, but other seem to have had very good luck with theirs.
    '14 Buick Encore Convenience
    '17 Chevy Volt Premiere
  • I have a 96 Nissan Maxima with 130,000 miles, the problem is it starts rough only in the morning, or i guess, when its cold. Start driving it and when i stop is starts to idle low, i let it go a couple of days ago and it died, and had to restart the car, but if i keep the idle up at 1000 rpm and keep driving for about 4-5 minutes it runs fine, and will for the rest of the day, with no problems starting either. But i have found that since it has gotten colder the problem seems to last longer in the morning, sometimes worse. But now the problem occurs when i start, no real problems while driving. I have changed the spark plugs and the fuel filter, oil and oil filter have been changed recently also. I'm thinking its a valve somewhere, but not sure.
  • merdiemerdie Posts: 12
    We had an 04 Maxima with vibration problem, traded it for 05 Maxima thinking Nissan had solved problem. They have not, we have the same problem with the 05. What did your dealer do to resolve the problem? We have contacted Nissan Consumer Affairs but nothing resolved yet.
  • I hit a curb while trying to turn in the snow last week. Maybe 10 MPH. I seemed to hit with the wheel flush to the curb as I was part way into the turn, (passenger front wheel). The wheel is not bent but the steering wheel now seems a few degrees to the left while driving straight. The car does not wander much at all if I let go of the wheel and there is no shaking. Could it be that I knocked out the alignment a little? Is there a camber adjustment? Car seems fine but it's like a crooked picture on the wall, having the steering wheel a little off and I want it fixed.
    Any thoughts?
    Thanks in advance for your responses.
  • Here's a question for ya . . . I own a 2000 Maxima SE - tan with a tan leather interior. I'm trying to buy new floormats. Nissan has switched suppliers. Now the mats have gone from TAN to BLONDE. Blonde does not match tan!! Any suggestions where I can get replacement floormats the match the original factory mats?
  • Have you had the same problem since they replaced your battery?? My 2001 20th anniversary Maxima SE did the same exact thing about two months ago, I had it checked out they told me to replace the battery. Everything was fine until it did the same exact thing again this past week. I was wondering if yours is a reoccuring problem too?

    Any info will be helpful. Thank you...
  • lombylomby Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Maxima SE with +60K miles. I have replaced the O2 sensor, all the coils and the fuel injection system (or at least part) in the last 18K miles or so.

    Recently, my car, after taking off from a stop sign at an intersection going uphill, just cut the engine off on me! The radio, headlights, dashboard, all were still on so I knew it wasn't the altinator and I have a new battery. I started thinking about the os sensor and coils and such and was hoping that wasn't it. The car wouldn't restart so I backed it down the hill and parked. Luckily I thought to try again the next day before calling a tow truck, and Whala! It started and ran ok.

    I took it immediately to a place that does diagnostic and it turned out to be the Cam Positioning Sensor. Had it replaced for $160 parts and $60 labor.

    Lesson to learn: try to start your car one more time before calling a tow truck...seems to be a common theme in some of the posts I've read.
  • zimmymanzimmyman Posts: 2
    Nissan wanted to replace all 6 of mine for $850. The sensors cost about $63 each. I had a friend who is an auto mechanic replace the one that was bad in my 2000 Maxima GLE and it looked pretty damn easy to do. The hard part was using a device to figure out which was the bad one. BTW, the 3 in the rear are shaped different than the 3 in the front so you can't just walk in and buy one without knowing if the bad one is in the back or the front. That was 6 mths ago and now I guess another one is going bad. I have owned 5 Nissan cars, incl. 3 Maximas. Had probems with all four windows in a '92.
  • zimmymanzimmyman Posts: 2
    Nissan wanted to replace all 6 of mine for $850. The sensors cost about $63. I had a friend who is an auto mechanic replace the one that was bad in my 2000 Maxima GLE and it looked pretty damn easy to do. The hard part was using a device to figure out which was the bad one. BTW, the 3 in the rear are shaped different than the 3 in the front so you can't just walk in and buy one without knowing if the bad one is in the back or the front. That was 6 mths ago and now I guess another one is going bad. I have owned 5 Nissan cars, incl. 3 Maximas. Had probems with all four windows in a '92.
  • jonesatljonesatl Posts: 2
    I have had quotes of $750 to $850 to replace all 6 coils. Is it easy to do? How about the plugs, are the easy to get to and change??
  • jonesatljonesatl Posts: 2
    how hard is it to replace the ignition coils and spark plugs on a 2000 max? I have been quoted $759.00 to replace 6 coils and 6 plugs but want to try it myself. are they easy to get to?
    also thanks for the ecu instrux.
  • eperqueeperque Posts: 4
    2000 se/ just had right cv joints/axle changed.
    now car is pulling right, and really pulls right when accelerating. Had f.e align checked, all within specs. Shop that changed right axle said all is ok and nothing they did would affect f.e align. Why is car suddenly pulling to right now. Drove on a 500 mile trip prior to cv joint change, and car was not pulling. What is the problem?

  • mrs99maxmrs99max Posts: 1
    Any ideas on this one? Saturday I got in my car and it would not turn over. Had neighbor (car fanatic) check and he said it seemed as if it wasn't getting any fire or fuel but didn't know what exactly. Had car towed to repair place, dealership had no availability until Mon. They have changed the fuel pump and the cam sensor. Now waiting for ECM to come in. So far I've had to replace the O2 sensor, AC/ALT belt and tires.
  • ccermakccermak Posts: 260
    I don't know a ton, but I'm fairly sure that in order to change the plugs, the
    coils need to be disconnected from the plug, so the labor may be overlapping.
    I've read a lot about coils and I've heard they're easy, like plug and play
    connections, but the ones in back may be harder to get to. I know that's true
    for sure for the plugs. Some say a certain plug wrench is almost essential so
    you can get at them and not drop them, etc. My .02 would be to buy all the parts
    yourself. Then install what you can, like maybe the front plugs and coils. Then find an independent mechanic to do the rears, if they are that hard, and pay him for just the labor. Shop a couple and go with cheapest as it's
    an easy repair. This is just my .02 on what I'd do in this situation, but since
    I have a 2000 SE with @ 80K on it with no coil issues I'm thinking my number
    will get pulled sometime sooner rather than later. Also, if you go to a competitors forum whom I won't mention, they've got many write-ups on how to change coils yourself.
  • larry11larry11 Posts: 1
    This is Strange....heard a sound...that sounds like a popping ballon...several times. First time was multiple pops, then one at a time. Time interval between is anywhere from 1 minute to 30 minutes. Turned off radio and auto temp controls. Heard again...POP...POP. Stopped the car and open trunk. Leaned in trunk and CLEARLY heard from the driver rear speaker...POP. Its not a a loose connection. Its not something hitting something else. I suspect its electrical. ANYBODY ELSE hear this. I heard a similar noise in the Murano from time to time...but it was really low and mostly unnoticeable. This is REALLY LOUD and tends to startle the driver...HELP PLEASE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1
  • kaboomkaboom Posts: 1
    Yes, I am also experiencing very similar symptoms with my brand new 2005 Maxima SL. It downshifts abruptly when slowing down to make a turn and when driving between 15 and 25 mph constantly shifts between 2nd and 3rd as if not sure what gear it is supposed to be in. Definitely not a smooth transmission. I took it to the dealer and they replaced the valve body which did not help at all. When I complained again, they said there is nothing more they can do other than call Nissan Tech to see if they have any suggestions.
  • gatormagatorma Posts: 2
    I just got your message from returning from the Nissan dealer this morning for the second P0420 code on my 2001 Max SE AE. I have researched and researched, so hope this helps you. First time at 43,000 miles, they reprogrammed the ECU relative to the TSB NTB00-070a. Free of charge. Seemed to run fine. Two days ago, SES light comes on at 48,000 miles, Auto Zone pulls the code again at P0420, actually two codes same P0420. Call dealer, he says maybe the reprogramming didn't take or the cat is bad and needs replaced which is still covered under above TSB and 8/80,000 warranty for cat. Take it in this morning and told, yes, reprogramming was fine, but cat is bad and they need car all day to replace cat free of charge. Don't do anything with the O2 sensor as it might be the same problem as mine. Let Nissan take care of it, but at least you have this information. Also referenced on website. Good news about free of charge on cat, but week ago had to replace the alternator for $400 with 47,800 miles on it. This will be my last Maxima, gave my son by 96 SE, he has 148,800 miles on it, only replaced tires on it and starter went at 128K - Needless to say, he is the one coming to pick me up for all of these dealership visits. Think I'll start looking for a low mileage 96 Max soon. Good luck - hope this helps.
  • kentarokentaro Posts: 1
    I am looking into the to buy ignition coil for my 200 max. I am wondering if any of readers have experience with them. They are about 40% less than dealer. They list nissan parts.
  • leo18leo18 Posts: 1
    hi, yes they are fairly easy to replace and the spark plugs are attached to the coils. The front 3 are located under the cover where you fill the oil. Unscrew the allens and lift the cover piece off. You will see all three of the coils. Unscrew the hold screw and lift the coil out. The wire connectors are a bit tricky but if you push down the front with the green arrow to the bottom, the unit should just pop off releasing the coil. The rears are behind the air induction unit. You can see the tops of them in the back. The top is a Rectangle square, black in color. Removal is the same. Release the wire connector and pull the coil off the spark plug. Any further information, email me at I will be happy to further assist you. I went a little crazy trying to figure this out before I got mine done. I also can help anyone shut the service light off, as can AutoZone. Just ask.
  • It is a very simple task. Use an allen wrench to remove front cover (4 screws) and two screws each on each coil pack. I recently replaced all and plugs for a little over $350. Good luck.

    P.S. Use magnetic screwdriver so screws don't fall into spark plug hole.
  • rafarafa Posts: 35
    we have a 2001 nissan maxima se with 72,000 miles a couple a months ago it just died out wouldn't start towed it to the shop check it then they said it was the tps then they said it valve control mongul and finally said it was the ecm so order it from dealer it cost ed $900.00 replace that total bill was $2039.53. We always had nissan i also have 2004 nissan titan that I've been having problems with get back at us to see what happen maybe we have a case with nissan
  • highrollerhighroller Posts: 351
    Does anyone with a 1996 Nissan Maxima V6 or knows a little about this car know where the fuel filter located(if it's inside the fuel tank or outside of it and etc.)? I've tried looking in my owner's manual but they don't state anything about it. I'm hoping that the fuel filter for this car can be found just as similar as the oil filter: quick and easy access. Thanks in advance.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Fuel Filter
    Nissan Maxima 1993-1998 Repair Guide

    The fuel filter is located in the engine compartment, next to the power brake booster.


    Remove the fuel pump fuse from the fuse panel.
    Start the engine.
    After the engine stalls, try to restart the engine. If the engine will not start, the fuel pressure has been released.
    Turn the ignition switch OFF.
    Using a shop rag to absorb the excess fuel, loosen the fuel filter's hose clamps, remove the hoses and the filter. The fuel filter unclips from the bracket, allowing for easier replacement.
    Check the hoses for cracks and flexibility. Replace any hardened and/or cracked hoses.
    Install a new fuel filter in the proper direction. Usually an arrow indicates the direction of fuel flow.
    When installing fuel hose clamps, be sure to position the clamp so it is 3mm from the end of the hose.
    Install the fuel pump fuse.
    Start the engine and check for leaks. It may be necessary to crank the engine for a time to build fuel pressure, so don't be alarmed if it doesn't start immediately.
  • utjennutjenn Posts: 1
    I have a 1994 Maxima (which I love) but throughout the winter the car has filled with the smell of gas everytime I turn the heat on - I have no idea what might be causing this - anyone have any suggestions??

    Also, the car recently (within the past week) has started stalling out at traffic lights and intersections. After it stalls, it starts up again with no problem. It also has started surging forward while I'm driving and the RPMs shoot up and then drop back down to normal. After it does this, it typically stalls. Anyone have any advice to offer? I'm a student so a cheap, but effective solution is definitely what I need.
  • roar1roar1 Posts: 193
    FYI......if you read your warranty manual you will find that the ECM and the catalytic converter are covered for 96 months / or 80,000 mi. under the "Long Term Federal Emissions " warranty.

    I hope you didn't pay for any of this !!!!!!!!!

    And Yes, Nissan is having problems with Titans, Armadas, and Quests.
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