Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair



  • iluvmaxiluvmax Posts: 33
    My y2k gle with had 32000 miles when I noticed vibration when hitting the front brakes. I took it Wood bury Nissan and told them I thought the rotors were warped. Sure enough they were and they replaced them and the brakes under warranty. I have 38800 now and no vibration.

    Try wd40 it will take off anything and not harm the clear coat
  • socal007socal007 Posts: 23
    Anyone have problems w/ the CD player ??
    Mine quit playing...
    Any experiences w/ removal of unit for repair ??

    Paint quality has been an issue from day 1..
    Hood shocks went out shortly after warranty...
    Neither Dealer (Lew Webbs, Irvine CA) nor area Rep would even go 50% on replacement costs..
    Very poor PR
  • edwardh5edwardh5 Posts: 130
    I have a 99 I 30 with the 6 disc under seat cd changer.
    It skips and stops a lot.
  • bobblebobble Posts: 1
    I encountered pretty much the same problem with a Nissan of a different stripe: 1996 Sentra GXE. It was showing the same symptoms; vibration at highway and above speeds. I replaced both front tires, but the problem persisted. After making many guesses with the people at the tire shop, I finally broke down and replaced the rear tires also. The vibrations went away the next time I drove it at freeway speeds (65+). If nothing else, you buy something that you will need soon anyway.
  • rcp2rcp2 Posts: 1
    Anyone with a relatively new vehicle have this problem? I have about 4K miles on a 2001 max, and when I'm driving on a rough road, I get a metallic "clank" coming from from the back end when I hit a bump. The dealer can't find anything loose or wrong (go figure). I thought someone else might have seen this.
  • htn123htn123 Posts: 15
    Yes, I have the same exact problem.
    Mine is 2000 Maxima SE, around 5K miles, I started hearing a large "clank" in the rear when I went over a speed bump. I took it to the dealer and he checked it also and could not find a thing wrong with it!!!.
    But now I have about 20K on my car and that "clank" has seems to disappeared. Not sure what it was.
  • boarhog2boarhog2 Posts: 2
    I had a 93 maxima, started to see metal in my oil at 100k, found out that nissan had problems with variable timing on the DOHC V6 I had. Nissan knew about the problem in 94. My mechanic showed me the service bullitan for the fix. Nissan never issued a recall. Would cost $2000 dollars to fix. Plus I had clutch repaired at dealer, took back four times never got it right. Sun roof never worked right, cables were not insatlled correctly that would have cost me $1000. Sorry Nissan, you had your chance never again.
  • flyinlowflyinlow Posts: 62
    I have a 2000 SE with Sherwood green paint with several bad places from bird droppings. I bought the car new in Jan 01 and it was built in Jan 00, so it had sat on the dealer's lot a long time. The worst place, on the roof, was like Joan's: 'crackled' clear coat. Joan, is your car green?

    It was raining when I bought the car, so I didn't see the damage until I washed it later. Nissan denied responsibility, and the dealer talked me out of getting it repainted at their expense. The service mgr actually took me to his favored body shop where the guy looked at my car and advised not to repaint. He said that although the damage was through the clear coat, the green was intact and would never get any worse. I don't totally buy that, but I know from past experience that a re-paint won't ever totally match the original. Even if it did, it would not age the same as the OEM paint/clear coat. So I gritted my teeth and decided to live with it. HOWEVER: since then, and since fanatical cleaning and waxing with Meguiar's, I have had at least one small bird-bomb leave a smudge in the clear coat. The crap was on the car a few hours at most before I cleaned it.

    I definitely suspect a sub-par clearcoat job. You can bet I will keep track of all such areas during the warranty period and complain again to Nissan if the clear coat crackles anywhere else. I'll make 'em repaint the whole darn car!
  • jbanerjeejbanerjee Posts: 6
    After hearing all these stories about problems starting the car and hesitating transmissions, I'm not sure I want to purchase a 2001 Maxima SE. Any advice? Should I buy a Jetta instead and save some money?

  • wg45678wg45678 Posts: 55
    Seems to me you ought to escalate the issue. There is no reason that your clearcoat should be 'crackled' except defective paint. I'd expect that it won't be long before the clearcoat starts peeling off the underlaying paint. If nothing else, see a couple of other shops (besides the dealer's shill) and find out what they think about the problem.
  • lucy1213lucy1213 Posts: 18
    Just wanted to say a couple of things here.

    1. My sister has a 1995 Altima which she bought new and she also has experienced the crackling in the paint, only it was from tree sap, not bird droppings. So, the paint on Nissan's older, other cars also appear to be doing the same thing.

    2. I am at my wits end with the transmission "slipping" (surging) on my GXE. The dealership says it's time to get a Nissan rep. to check out the problem, but the Nissan rep. won't get involved until the technicians at my the dealership can replicate the problem. I understand this, but both times I have brought the car in for test drives by the technician, it hasn't surged. Of course, while I was driving it to the dealership, it surged, then behaved perfectly the rest of the day when the tech had it.

    It's maddening because the surging/slipping is very random--it will go a couple days without doing it, then will surge several times a day for a few days in a row. The surging/slipping primarily happens between first and second gear. It also tends to jerk when I am driving on the interstate at speeds over 65 mph and then lift my foot off the gas, rather than break, to slow down. It's almost like the transmission gets confused when I do this.

    As if the situation weren't upsetting enough, the service manager had the nerve to tell me that if I keep bringing the car in and they continue to not find anything wrong with it, then they are going to have to start charging me for the time involved. Nice, ha? That's just the way a customer who has dropped more than $23,000 on a car and whose vehicle has a VIN identified as among those who may experience this problem wants to be treated. It's like, yeah, buddy, I am really enjoying all this hassle and heartache that I thought could be avoided by having a brand new car. Oh well...
  • g00chg00ch Posts: 10
    I have a 2K SE with about 24K on it. After warming up and a bunch of stop and go (typically, run for a mile @ 50, stop at intersection, repeat) I begin hearing a 'creaking' sound from my passenger front brake while applying the brakes before coming to a complete stop. It sounds like the ABS engaging, but I don't feel anything in the brake pedal. I don't feel any degradation in stopping performance, but the sound unnerves me. I'm not stomping on the brakes, its a gradual stop, with medium pressure.

    Any comments?
  • wg45678wg45678 Posts: 55
    Lucy, the problem you are having seems awfully akin to the surging we've been complaining about on the Maxima 5 speed boards. In our case, it's not the transmission, it is the ECU causing the problem. When you are using very light throttle, the ECU tends to take control from you making it hard to drive smoothly. This can give you whiplash trying to drive in 1st gear at parking lot speeds and causes car to surge a bit at highway speeds with the cruise control on (and some report much worse behavior going down long downgrades at highway speeds). The torque converter on the automatic will normally mask the problem but with the lockup clutch bypassing the torque converter engaged, you can probably feel it on the automatic.

    Check out the first few posts of the 5 speed forum for a full description of the problem (note there is a TSB out for this problem as well). The TSB has been posted to the board.

    You may also need to have the auto tranmission TSB done to correct slipping between 1st and 2nd gear (although I'd think it was incorporated in a 2k1 model).
  • mtt999mtt999 Posts: 15
    I have a 94 Max with 165000 miles. I have a faulty alarm. Every time when I unlock the car from the driver side, the alarm goes off. I can unlock the passenger side and trunk without any problem. I am wondering, Is there a quick fix for it? or which parts could go wrong on the driver side door. TIA!
  • joan66joan66 Posts: 4
    My Nissan dealer ultimately agreed to repaint the entire hood of my car at their expense. Pictures were taken and sent to Nissan, but they claimed that the damage was not under warranty. I am happy that my dealer stood beside their product, but what about Nissan? My car is black - hoping that the new color will "blend" with old.
  • lfd440lfd440 Posts: 33
    Upon delivery of my 2001 SE i heard the what I believe to be the same sounds.Upon returning my vehicle with 177 miles to the dealer they found that #1 the rear suspension was loose from the factory and the sound that I described while going over a bump was actually a brake problem that had something to do with a "replacement kit" to replace (pins) on the left rear side. After the tightening and replacement kit was done it ran like a top!
    Good luck.... my purchase and repair was done at Kelly Nissan of Lynnfield MA. a very good and knowledgeable service oriented dealership.
    Hey GNL!! How's by you! the sox are still hot!
  • gnlgnl Posts: 94
    Well, the Sox WERE hot, right now they're hanging on by a hair in front of NY. I couldn't believe they got beat by Tampa Bay at all, much less twice. Oh well, like all good Red Sox fans, I'm prepared to deal with heartbreak yet again if it comes to that! We'll see what happens against Toronto today.

    The Max, on the other hand, is great. Just filled it up this a.m. with something like 15.6 gallons, having gone 299 miles on the last fill-up. Is that about the same mileage as everyone else is getting? This is a GLE.
  • lfd440lfd440 Posts: 33
    Did you read my post sent to you a couple of weeks back? ( did you read it..I think it was in the 250-260 range?) i sent along my email address so you could correspond directly.... profile, similar in some ways to yours with uncle sam?
    I think your car is defenitely a much smoother ride.. the SE lets me know when there's bumps in the road almost like my other vehicle 96 Ford Explorer.
  • robertrrobertr Posts: 125
    I have averaged 19.5 mpg over 19,000 miles on my 2000 SE 5-speed. This is probably about 50/50 city/highway and I like to keep the revs up and get on it when I get a chance. I go about 300 miles on a fill-up too, but only because the guage reads empty then but only takes about 15 gallons to fill up, meaning there are 3.5 gallons still left in the tank.
  • melirumeliru Posts: 5
    Nissan Maxima owners, I have a 2001 SE Sherwood Green that Bird Feces (POOP) has cracked the clear coat sealer. From reading all of the other Maxima 2000 and 2001 that have had similar problems and brought up to Nissan USA's attention only for them not to want to take responsibility for a potential Quality or workmanship problem. The only way we can get their assistance is to unite, hold their feet to the fire and hit them where it hurts "their pocketbooks" until they admit that there is a problem or provide sufficient evidence that there is not. If any of you are willing to file a class action let me know. I will do the homework and hire a reputable law firm. However I would like to have at least 10-15 plaintiffs. My address is
  • robertrrobertr Posts: 125
    I just today discovered there is a hole worn in the left sole of my Johnston&Murphys. Has anyone else noticed this problem yet? :)
  • I remember talking to the sales rep at johnson's and murphys that they give lifetime warranty to their shoes. So go back and they will replace or correct the problem.

    As for the class action law suit, please dont give money to lawyers. Especially in a class action lawsuit. Every thing goes to the lawyer/firm.

    Car salesman and lawyers, stay away from them. Oh also Best bu sales rep, if show interest in any thing , he will have it at home and knows that its the best thing in the world
  • seaspyseaspy Posts: 6
    I have a 1995 GLE ,103018 miles. recently I have had water leaking from the black box under glove compartment.It seems to occur when I sit at idle for extended period of time. I use this car for work I am in it 8 to 10 hrs a day and overall it has performed very well. no oil leaks or tranny problems. still has original timming belt. replaced the larger drive axle at 99k miles only because the boot was torn. Any one have a fix or a dianogistics for the A/C leak?
    thank you
  • ccermakccermak Posts: 260
    I have a 2k SE Auto, White, Black Leather, BOSE, etc etc. I've been happy with the car except for 3 things. Rattles, ticks, shifts. I have the newer TCM. This message is about the tick/snap noise I get in the rear of the car, sort of between the rear driver's side door and back seat. It's like somebody's breaking twigs, or like there's a spot weld not done proper, or something like that. Some people think I'm nutz for bothering with it, but I'm the one shelling out $500/mo for this car. It used to be intermittent, but now it's pretty much constant. It's not over potholes or harsh bumps, but more over small dips when stress is put on the frame or whatever. I'll be going down the highway and every little dip or bump it's TICK, TICK, TICK, TICK. I've heard there's others with this problem. I've heard of technicians removing the rear glass to get at a faulty spot weld. I'm approaching 20K miles and am doing everything I can to fix this under warranty. It's dumb, but if I can't get it to go away I may bite the bullet and trade up to a Lexus or NEW big motor Max. Anybody else having this TICK, SNAPPIDY SNAP, TICK while going down the road???

    I had the same thing in the front passenger side A-pillar and it was fixed by wedging foam in the crack. This is WORSE, it drives you nuts.

    Sorry so long, have to VENT. Car is going back on Monday for noise. This is the 6th trip back for the same noise. They did fix it for about 6 months and now it's here again.

  • jazzy8jazzy8 Posts: 11
    I have that exact same problem, had it now since the car was new. Now has 24K on it. This thing drives me nuts, but I have figured the dealer would make the prob worse. If you do get a resolution from the dealer, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE provide details on how they fixed it. My email is
    PS - I brought this up before on a couple of forumns and nobody else seems to be effected.
  • jazzy8jazzy8 Posts: 11
    ccemak - Do you know how they fixed it 6 months ago?
  • edwardh5edwardh5 Posts: 130
    had a vw with the tick prob - maybe a poor tack weld - located the general area and started bending hidden body panels - noise stopped.
  • axixamaxixam Posts: 1
    Loyal owner of 2 Nissan cars: 1994 Nissan maxima sports edition & 2001 Infinite. Original owner of 94 Maxima with 52k miles that has been diagnosed with a faulty transmission that requires replacement. Estimated cost (time & materials) of a remanufactured transmission is approx $3,600. Warranty period of 5 years or 60k, which ever comes first. I am of course outraged by this occurrence, and have requested that Nissan interpret its warranty in a liberal manner. The outcome will determine whether I will continue as a repeat customer. Any similar happenings out there, please advise.
  • whyguy1whyguy1 Posts: 3
    Does anyone know how to take the bezel around the stock radio off to install a Nissan CD into the bin area right under it?

  • ccermakccermak Posts: 260
    This is way long so beware!

    Gone for a bit so haven't posted. Car is currently in shop as I'm typing this. 2000 Pearl White SE, Auto, Black Leather, loaded. Nissan is no longer paying the bill, the dealer is eating the cost. Which is cool I guess, but I'm starting to feel I'm fighting a losing battle. They'll only do so much and keep eating the labor hours. Here's the scoop. It was fixed back in Oct 2000 by removing the rear seat, door panel, trim, REAR GLASS, etc. There's supposedly a faulty tack weld where a bunch of metal comes together. They put some "resealer" in there, and it probably held for a while and with age, stress, etc it's broken or whatever again. My dealer, KLINE Nissan, MN has been good about making a solid effort to fix, and right now it's with the body work company they use Abra Autobody. It's Abra who's taken out the glass, etc. This is pretty much my last shot at fixing this. I'm PRAYING it's gone for the long haul this time. If not I'm kinda screwed and stuck cranking up the Bose. It is slightly intermittent, but lately it's ticking about 75% of the time. Here's something for you others to check, I thought this may be the problem but it turned out not to be, but in my opinion is still worth checking. You can take out the rear seat easily, just tug up and out real hard. There's some straps underneath you can grab on to if needed and the seat just clicks in. After it's out, there's one bolt on each side of the rest of the seat near the bottom that will allow you to remove the side seat back rest panels. Not the whole back seat, just the side portions. Take those out too. Then there's the trim piece that runs along the bottom of the door on the inside, yank that off, it comes off and on easy. All this takes about 10 minutes. Once that's all out, you can see a plastic tube that contains wires running to the rear deck, speakers, etc. That plastic tube has a slit in it, and when you squeeze it, it snaps/ticks in lots of different places, and it's LOUD. I found this out while doing my own investigating, taped it with duct tape really tight everywhere where it was making noise, and I thought for SURE I had the problem licked. I thought it was that tube clicking with the seat pressing on it over bumps and dips in the road. I put it all back together and within 1 minute of my test drive it was TICK, TICK, TICK. I was bummed. I was totally psyched that I had the problem fixed. Needless to say it's back in the shop today for a last ditch effort for a fix. I'm hoping it's the spot weld or whatever they think it is. May have to upgrade to 02 Max with 260 HP. Not my ideal maneuver as I bought this ride with intentions of holding FOREVER. But hey, if my blood boils every time I drive the damn thing it just ain't worth it. Great car other than the rattles, ticks, etc. It also downshifts unexpectedly when giving gas around corners with AC on, but besides all that, oh yeah, the paint chips in front, forgot about those, besides all that, it's a nice ride.

    I'll post the results of my last attempt at fixing.

Sign In or Register to comment.