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Another filter cut up and measure by wain Mar 09, 2002 (10:34 am)
From the oil filter forum
I cut up the Nissan OE I took off my Maxima and compared it to the resuts from the 4 cyl Camry filters.
Anyone else cutting up filters?
Its easy, cut the case off with a hacksaw, then use a knife to cut out a 1 inch band all around - then measure that length.
The sizes I got were;
Camry 4 cyl
Purolater: 50.25 long x 1 7/8 high = 94.2 square inches
SuperTech : 40.5 x 1 3/4 high = 70.8 square inches
WIX 39.5 long x 1 5/8 high = 64.2 square inches
Nissan OE 42.25 x 2 3/8 = 100.3 square inches ????
This was a longer/taller filter but only had about the same area as the smaller Purolater
(for Maxima V 6) the antidrain back valve in the Nissan filter was very thin and did not have a lot of "body". Made in USA but I have never seen a relief valve like this one had .
Hey Maxima people who makes the Maxima filter?
Anyone with valve clatter at startup after sitting overnight????
http://www.nissan-global.com/GCC/Japan/NEWS/20010410_0e.html
Plus, here are a couple of other oil filters sites, Nissan friendly - but informative nonetheless:
http://www.nissanecenter.com/customer.htm
http://www.nissanecenter.com/customer.htm
Chuck
http://www.nissanhawaii.com/Owners/Genuine/GP_page7.asp
unless its a bad timing chain
worked for me - on new Infiniti
The 3.8 has a ton of torque and will jump off the line. We have a Max 2000 SE and it has minimal torque off idle but will rev up and romp once you get it going. The powerbands of two cars is nearly opposite, but I'd have to lean towards the fatter GTP torque all other things being equal. You can even put a smaller pully on the supercharger in about 20 minutes and get extra 40 horsepower or so.
The GP body is not as well put together in my opinion, but if you're ok with the rest of the car, its a good choice. Other factors: Resale value is much less, and you can only get a automatic, pricy option groups, etc.
Good luck -
Will take it to the dealer when I get time off.
Thanks for your help.
Robert
wet areas to try to localize the squeek
jaepil - Like you've said, we are just too anal about our SE!
***** To all 2002 Maxima owners, by this time all of you should have receive a "RECALL" letter from Nissan. It's regarding to a gas pedal stopper. Check with your dealer and they should know about it. It's FREE of charge for the dealer to replace the stopper. I'm bring my 2002 SE to the dealer next week for the stopper replacement. *****
***** To all 2002 Maxima owners, by this time all of you should have receive a "RECALL" letter from Nissan. It's regarding to a gas pedal stopper.
what is this?
"Your vehicle is equipped with an electronic throttle control system. Under usual driving conditions, the stopper for the accelerator pedal will prevent excessive movement of the accelerator position sensor. However, if the driver pushes the pedal to the stopper with overly excessive force while at the same time pushing it to the right, the pedal may "over travel" due to the design of the stopper. This could cause the engine malfunction indicator lamp to come on and the engine speed to be severely limited. If this occurs unexpectelly, it could lead to a crash."
http://www.nissandriven.com/vehicles/ModelAttributes/0,9443,20410|31005|,00.html#midpageAnchor
In otherwords, this is all normal, relax and enjoy your Max.
DD
I just discovered this board, I'm from the Maxima Sedan site. I have included my previous post from the other board below. May be it would help some of you get your Maxima's problems fixed right. Good luck.
I noticed in previous posts that many people were unable to get their Maximas fixed or repaired for whatever reason. I have a 01 Maxima GLE and it runs great (so far) with only one little thing to complain about, the alignment problem.
A few days after I purchased the vehicle back in September of 2001, the alignment problem was noticed. The car kept on bearing to the right for some reason. It is fixed now, but it took me about 4 ridiculous trips to the dealer to get it right. You have to be tough on them (to a point) so that they would do it right.
How to be TOUGH & PERSISTANT? I have a list of who to talk to so that they would get the message. If the first person on the list doesn't help, go to the next one on the list.
1. The Service Dept. Supervisor
2. The Dealer's General Manager
3. NISSAN CORPORATION (the last stand)
Although I was very happy with the dealership (Sales Dept.) that I purchased my vehicle from, I couldn't say the same thing for it's Service Dept.
The Service Dept. tried to brush me off about the alignment problem twice, so I had to head for another dealership to finally get the problem fixed and out of my mind.
At the original dealership, I was told by the Service Supervisor that my tires were too new to tell if anything was wrong with the alignment. And he said that they look at other areas but found no problems concerning the alignment. I was told to come back at the 3K oil change to see if the problem persisted. Ridiculous!
I went back at 3K oil change (free), but they still found nothing. However, this time the Supervisor said that my tire pressure was uneven and low. So that might have caused the problem.
That was a pure lie. I set the tire pressure myself several days before, using my and a gas station's pressure gauge. The tire pressure was fine. I did not said anything. Knowing that my short temper would explode in front of this Moron of a Supervisor and bring the dealership down. I thought that I might come back later, so I backed off.
I went to another dealer (this time near my house) and told them of the alignment problem. To my suprise, they tell me the same crap regarding the tire PRESSURE!!!
Thus, I decided to directely call NISSAN CORP. and complain to them. They set up a second meeting with the 2nd dealership that I went to. Guess what?! They found the problem and FIXED it for good!!!
I had to go to the dealers, since it was a pretty new car and was still under warranty. But I do not know if I could claim after going to a private shop. But that's another story.
The bottom line, push them until they get it fixed. Go to the head or the head of the head, etc.. and tell them about the problem. Some dealers are pretty awful when it comes time to service your vehicle, they could be sneaky too.
It seems that my phone call to NISSAN CORP. really set them straight. The Dealers really do care about the image or feedback they get from the CORP. They need the approval of the CORP to get the benefits or previleges to better survive. The Service Supervisor at the 2nd dealership was pretty worried, and nicely asked me if everything was corrected or fixed to my satisfaction. The 1st dealership called me to apologies after receiving the notice from the CORP. They offered me free oil change again, but I would never trust them again.
I'm sticking with the 2nd dealership for service, now!
One thing, do not bad mouth too much. You never know if someone at the service dept. would go crazy and really fix your car (you know what I mean). Know where the line must be drawn.
TIRES:
I have 17" wheels with 225/50RV/17 Bridgestone Potenza tires. The 92RE type.
It is a pretty good high performance tire. However, every tire is created from different stacks of the same material. So there might be some minor differences on them. But enough to create, what seems to be, alignment problems.
Meaning, tires are made every day by the manufactures. The rubber or other materials they use would have slight differences with the stock they come with. Yesterday's stock of material might have slight different compounds compared to today's. Thus, creating slight uneven formations.
To actually tell if the alignment problem was caused by the tires. Switch or ask the mechanic to switch the tires to each side. Not front and back like a tire rotation. Drive the vehicle again, on an pretty well known flat road. If it bears to the opposite side after the switch, then it is the TIRES. Of course, make sure the Stearing Wheel is straight and not tilted slightly to one side in order to keep the car straight.
Well, I better stop here. I could start a book if I go further.
I was wondering if anyone could help me with the IGNITION problem for my '01 Maxima? I would like to hear from people that have experienced or know somebody that had an IGNITION problem with their new Maximas.
I took my vehicle to the dealer's service dept. and had them check on the apparent ignition problems that has surfaced occasionally. They could not specifically find the source of the problem nor they could duplicate it.
I was told by the service supervisor that there were only five other reported IGNITION problems with the Nissan Maxima that was recorded by Nissan Corp. They requested me to pay attention next time when this IGNITION problem surfaces again so they could properly find and fix the problem.
The situation is not frequent, but new vehicles should not have this problem.
Here is the break down:
- About once every 3 weeks or so, I have to start my vehicle 2 to 3 times to make it run. Mostly, it happens during cold starts (when not used for 12 or more hours).
- Me and my friend (who is a self taught mechanic) think that it might be either: Ignition Timing problem, Starter problem, or Fuel Injection problem.
- Last week, this problem resurfaced. And I had to pump the gas pedal one time to start the engine properly. I know for a fact the new vehicles should not require to pump the gas pedal to help start the engine. This could be a Fuel Injection problem.
- The service supervisor says that it might be the key itself. The chip inside the key could be giving problems.
- However, I hear the engine cranking even when it could not fully start. When it does finally run, it would hesitate at first by shaking a little and goes to normal engine idle.
Like I said, this only happens about once every 3 weeks. But to a new car?!
I would appreciate if anyone could throw in some ideas or experiences from similar past problems. Thanks.
My service manager made a suggestion that I have followed since and haven't had the problem re-occur.
He said that the chip in the key has to "have a second or so to be recognized by the security system". He said simply put the key in the ignition, pause for a second before turning the key to start the car.
I have 85,100 miles on this car now and as I said, the issue has dissappeared. Matter of fact I had forgotten about it until I read your post.
It might work for you as well?
However, what puzzles me is that the engine is still able to crank. I feel that it is trying to start, but just doesn't have enough juice to fully do so.
I was thinking that if the car couldn't read the chip inside the key at first, it would not allow the engine to work at all. Of course, I'm not so sure how the Engine Immobilizer works.
Thanks again for the advice, I will definitely try it.
Thanks for advice on the delay start. Same thing had happened to me. May also be fuel pressure building up in FI system.
DD
Thanks a lot.
I was offered by the dealer service dept. to have the keys reprogrammed just in case this continues. I hope that it would not occurred again.
May be you could request them to have your keys reprogrammed. If it gets worst (well, its bad already), get a hold of the general manager. If that doesn't work, call Nissan Corp.
I would do the same if it doesn't get any better (knock on wood!).
engine off I hear a buzzing sound. Has anyone else
noticed this? I see a TSB for it, but I haven't
found anything more specific on the problem.
Thanks.
2001 Maxima
Service Bulletin Number: NTB01010
Bulletin Sequence Number: 187
Date of Bulletin: 02/01
NHTSA Item Number: SB618795
Component: Engine
Summary:
Some vehicles may exhibit a buzzing noise coming from the engine
compartment for several seconds after the ignition key is turned
off.
This specially happens when driving the car shortly after starting the engine.
We thought that it was probably due to the metallic brakes and cold weather combined. However, the dealer found that his rear brakes were defective. He was told that there were a Bulletin Notice to this problem.
The dealer service dept. stated that: REAR BRAKE PADS AND SHIM KIT WERE DEFECTIVE OR POOR MATERIAL. REPLACE REAR BRAKE AND SHIM KIT PER BULLETIN.
After that, there were no more problems with his rear brakes. They didn't charge him anything, since the car was still under warranty.
Hope that this notice would help some of you that have this brake noise problem.
As for my '01 Maxima ignition problem, I had my keys reprogrammed and ran around town this weekend without any ignition hitch. There were many stops that I had to make. Every time I started the vehicle, it was smooth and quick.
So far, so good.
Thanks
I thought maybe it was the key code security not being read fast enough, but the last time I started it it took 3-4 tries to get it going and it was sputtering, not like it had zero ignition like when the security is engaged (I know, I had a bad key - the motor will turn but not fire if key is bad).
If someone finds a problem, let us know.
THanks,
DD
I also have a problem with the cruise. When I have the cruise on and set, the set light will sometimes blink and it will still work sometimes and not others. Anybody having that problem?
Your response is greatly appreciated,
Robert
22mpg is about what I've gotten on our '00 5spd in mixed driving, but the van gets 23.5-24.5 commuting in heavy traffic, and on the highway can flirt with 27mpg.
DD
Now, I'm no expert but I've had 4 other new cars in my lifetime and driven them pretty hard and have never had any problem like this (other cars had b/t 60-90K miles on them when I sold them). Sounds to me like the problem is being caused by some other factor - over tightening of the wheel lugs, defective rotor, etc. Any ideas?
I drive a 2001 PF LE with leather and have not been very impressed with how the leather looks after just one year.
Thank you.
I like having the traction control. It has kicked in a few times. Probably could live without it but I'm glad it's there.
Mine seems to bounce in about the middle part of the hood
Any help appreciated