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Now if you want an effective theft deterrent, get LoJack. All the police departments here have the ability to track LoJack-equipped vehicles.
I see no value in paying for the etching, but if you got screwed and paid an extra $370, big deal. Don't beat yourself up over it. In the grand scheme of things, that's a drop in the bucket compared to the total cost of the vehicle. You're getting screwed to begin with by buying a brand new vehicle.
Glass etching -$370 here, $370 there - pretty soon it adds up to quite a few $$$ for the dealer. And my friend that bought it anyway got to finance that $370 for 60 months. He unfortunately bought in-between the interest rate deals back in March. The way they do it to you (dealer add-ons that is) is the question, not that etching is done or its effectiveness.
.... And now.. for something completely different...
Anyone else experienced this?
I'll be starting my search for the best deal soon if everything goes right. Also, is there an advantage with buying from a large dealer than a small one?
When reversing down my street last night I heard a loud squeak, clink, clunking noise from what seemed to be the brakes..the sitituation was this, came to a stop, put truck in reverse, stepped on gas, started to back into parking spot, stepped on brakes sudden (cause I thought I was going to hit the car behind) heard a really bad squeak,clink,clunking noise from all the brakes..or suspension..street was a slight decline as I went down, but the noise was really loud.., so I pulled out in drive to straighten truck and see if it would do it in forward..so accelerated and jammed on brakes, noise appeared again as truck came to a rest..reversed and jammed on brakes and clink, clunk, squeak...no adverse effect on stopping but sounds like calapers are loose or something...Has anyone else had this?? The LT EXT I have only has 2500 miles on it...Really noticable in reverse. In forward noticable when truck starts to rest from sudden stop...
Taking to dealer on Saturday...
Your description is about verbatim the story I finally got from the dealer.
Doesn't make me any happier, but I guess I actually didn't pay for it.
Thanks again
As far as the VIN etched or sandblasted into the glass if you notice the mfg GM has put the VIN on various parts already. All the police have to do is run the VIN on their mobile computer and they can find out in an instant if the number comes back as stolen. No need to call some "800" number. Any legitimate used parts shop would certainly avoid having VIN marked parts on the premises I would think. And, more difficult for the thieves to sell marked parts. I think that's the theory anyway.
Also I am seeing a potential issue with my factory running boards...The flat piece on top is starting is separate. Anyone else seen that?
They are all due in tommorrow and hopefully with the holiday weekend, I'll have time to put them all on. Once all the stuff is on, I'll probably be offering up my Stock LTZ running boards for anyone interested. Details to come.
I'll be updating the entire section on my site which overall is in need of an update badly. My apologies for the static data for the past few weeks. Anyone have any free time that you can email me
tim
http://www.timlauro.com
WAAG Items Due in:
Front Runner
Rear Bumper Guard
Running Board Tubes
Tail Light Guards
Also my TB was driven over 300 miles on the thruway, I was so PO'd and the dealer said it would not harm the engine. Then why does the manual tell you to keep it under 55mph for the 1st 500 miles?
Hopefully they varied the speed on that 300 mi transit. The wrong thing to do is put a brand-new engine on the highway and set the cruise control. I bought mine 210 miles up in OK and went up there to get it myself rather than have a local dealer handle it for me just so I could run it at various speeds. However I did somehow manage to get it (well) above 55 a few times! Main thing they say is important is varying the engine speed so the rings and cylinder walls will set correctly. Have seen "90% of the break-in happens within the 1st 500 miles" but don't quote me on that. If you have (almost) no oil consumption then it's likely OK.
you don't want the auto system. got it in our bravada and it doesn't work as described in the owners manual. won't maintain preset temp when the vehicle is not moving b/c the recirc function doesn't work automatically and therefore warm air starts to enter the system unless you MANUALLY depress the recirc button; hardly an automatic climate control. another example of the general saying one thing in the manual then giving you less than you expected.
My GTP doesn't activate the Recirculate either. That's for super cooling and in most cases it will cause my wife to say, "it's too cold in here"
In the past two weeks I've spent 5 days on the road with an average of 4hrs/day in the car with a Co-Worker who just today commented on how niether one of us touched the setting of the HVAC the whole day. It just worked perfectly.
tim
BIMMERS WROTE:
"won't maintain preset temp when the vehicle is not moving b/c the recirc function doesn't work automatically and therefore warm air starts to enter the system unless you MANUALLY depress the recirc button"
you don't want the auto system. got it in our bravada and it doesn't work as described in the owners manual. won't maintain preset temp when the vehicle is not moving b/c the recirc function doesn't work automatically and therefore warm air starts to enter the system unless you MANUALLY depress the recirc button; hardly an automatic climate control. another example of the general saying one thing in the manual then giving you less than you expected.
http://www.autoetch.net/store.htm
Hardly justifies a $370 dealer add-on charge, but for $20 if you live in a high crime area maybe a real deal.
If you haven't try turning the rear fan on low to help even out and cool the entire truck a bit better. Crank the air to high and 60 with Recirculate on to get the air temp cool quicker. Once you're at that level of comfort, just turn the temp up to about 77 or so and see how that does.
My LTZ immediately begins to cool down and after about 5-8 minutes, the interior is cold enough and I turn it to 77 and leave it. I also leave the rear on low all the time. Again, just to keep the truck temps even. Mental thing for me I guess.
I do agree and wish GM's next firmware upgrade included a stay on feature for the recirculate button. But then just as with the DRL's it's habit to hit it before I shift out of park.
Sorry for the other issues. Keep us posted.
tim
After about 7,500 miles of operation, my 2002 TrailBlazer LTZ starting doing the same thing. At 9,000 miles of operation on a trip to the mountains, it downshifted really hard and never would shift back into automatic 3rd again. Had to leave my TB at a dealership out in the boonies for a full working week. They ended up replacing about 7 or 8 parts to correct the problem. This particular dealership faxed me a list of GM vehicles that were having the same transmission component failures as mine and it was staggering! The list contained both 2001 and 2002 year model GM vehicles. Not all of them were SUVs or pickups either.
I wish you the best of luck with this particular problem.
Regards,
Ron M.
If anyone knows of one that would be great. the regular length triplet has no problem find a fitment. It is only the XL that is the issue.
I'm also happy to report that my parking lot dent/ding came completely out with the "Ding King". I'm very impressed with both the results and the quality of the product. It took a total of 8 pulls with the glue to get it perfect, but it worked flawlessly!
Now I just got to get a small tube of touch up paint for a small scrape on my passenger door molding. Anyone else notice the paint doesn't adhere very well to the plastic trim? Right along the raised edge, it looks like it took a bump from the edge of a door (at least it's on the lower side, where you don't really see it). Although the scrape isn't more than the size of a pencil eraser end, the paint actually bunched up (almost like latex paint) and you can see the black plastic underneath. I wonder if the stone guard stuff would prevent this?
Oil change
Lube
Drain and fill front and read diff.
Drain and fill trans fluid.
Service transfer case
Balance tires
rotate tires
replace air filter
replace PCV valve
replace fuel filter
all this for only ~$520.00!
gee, what a deal. I told them to do the oil change, rotate tires and new air filter. The rest I think is BS. Does anyone feel some of this stuff is actually needed at 15k miles?
-John
PCV Valve....I don't even think the 4200 has one. There is a crankcase ventilation system, including an oil separator but it's built into the block.
Fuel filter...perhaps, but again, unless it's running a bit off my advice it to just leave it. I'm still on my same one with my other two cars and pressure/flow and power is just fine.
"I told them to do the oil change, rotate tires and new air filter. The rest I think is BS. Does anyone feel some of this stuff is actually needed at 15k miles?"
The system is sealed and there are no grease fittings.
tim
I just spoke to the dealer and they told me they checked the front and rear axel fluid and said it 'was starting to show signs of wear' so I should have them change it. They also said the factory fluid was 'breakin fluid' and needed to be changed to 'normal synthetic' fluid. They quoted $175. I'm not sure I buy their story. Also, if the fluid really needs to be changed, is this something I can do myself? Any tips?
While I have it in the shop, I am having them address some other concerns as well. Here is a list for those of you with simular issues:
Hatch Strap broken - dealer is replacing.
Rain sensor triggers in bright sunlight - dealer is replacing sensor.
Transmission makes a clunk sound/feel while sitting at a stop light when truck is cold. (feels like it is doing a hard shift into first). - dealer says there is a SW update TSB to fix this.
Hope that info is of help to someone.
-John
I would get them to put the BS about signs of wear and break-in fluid in writing and then send it off to GM. This kind of rip-off needs to be reported. Can you imagine how many others are getting ripped off? Use another dealer!
GAM
The Edmunds Maintenance Guide
It'll tell you what we think you should have done and how much it should cost.
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
I've not yet, until now, needed to invest in a compressor or impact tools, but the job would be much easier with them.
The rear bumper gaurd attaches pretty easily, but the four bolts on the rear frame are definitely tight and for obvious reasons. No hand tool is going to budge mine anyway and I have some pretty good stuff.
I will also probably need to drill an access hole in the frame to get to the bolts on the passenger side. The driver side has an access point, but the passenger...not sure how one can get a grip on the rear side of them...perhaps a nine year old's hand would fit, but not mine.
The running boards...I may be able to put those on today but will find out soon.
The front...well, let's just say it's going to be a two man job and a lift or nice jack will be needed. My nieghbor has a lift in his garage and all the stuff needed. Like a pro shop, he's good to go.
But hey, the tail light gaurds look great
I'll keep you all posted and have pics up soon. The items are much heavier in construction than I thought and are finished and packaged great.
tim
http://www.pbase.com/image/4334271
I am pretty sure that everything should be fine, and most people tell me that unless you tow or totally abuse the diffs, you should be good on the fluid for at least 30k.
This reminds me of my buddy who said that Acura told him he MUST use Honda oil in his '02 TL-S or it would void his factory warranty. hmmm...
I think I may change my diff fluids at about 15k just for fun and because I don't want any surprises. I wonder if diff drain plugs are magnetic like some AT drain plugs(to catch metal shavings) Personally, I would take it elsewhere to get the job done, preferably someone who you can trust, because those are outrageous prices that they are charging you. For the air filter, just geta K&N E-1009 =o) its about $60 and is washable and has a 1million mile warranty. I am pretty sure that the filters get pretty dirty as I have already cleaned mine once and had to change the factory filter @ 3k mi, but then again, I've been going down the roads less taken =o) @9400 miles, not too bad, I suppose... I'll let you guys know how my trans cooler install goes, just need a few parts and my digi camera back..... I'll try to get some good data for actual temp differences too...
Steve
Host
SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
It took about 3hrs for the front and back. The front had some alignment and machining issues witht the the brackets under the front that set us back about 1hr. No big deal and since every truck is just slightly different, I expect it's a common thing.
Unfortunately WAAG sent me the wrong brackets to mount the side tubes. The tubes are correct and look to be good, but the brackets don't match up at all. I'll have to get with them on Tuesday and perhaps by next weekend or so I'll have those on. They are easy. The stock running boards have four mounts. Each mount has a stud in the frame to hang them from thus making installation easy for one person. The other three bolts just screw into the threads that are also part of the frame. The WAAG system only has two brackets needed and they mount pretty easily too....once the correct brackets are in hand that is. I'll be selling the stock running boards once the tubes are in place.
I'm also selling my Hitch Step if anyone would like to contact me at pdqpg@yahoo.com It just doesn't fit "look wise" that is now that I have the rear bumper guard.
Here are some preliminary pics of a dirty LTZ with the items in place. Clean ones to come soon.
http://www.pbase.com/pdqgp/gallery/my_cars
tim
Thanks,
John