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Chrysler Minivan Transmission Problems

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Comments

  • gg1328gg1328 Posts: 16
    edited February 2011
    I have a 1998 Plymouth Voyager (Expresso,) 3.3 engine. It has 198,400 miles on it. I was stuck on ice last week, trying to free vehicle by rocking it backward and forward. Then I heard something snap. Now car starts, but will not go forward or reverse when I put it in gear.

    Is there a chain or belt that broke? Is it something that I could fix myself, without removing the entire transmission? Or is the entire transmission shot?

    Thanks for your time and effort,
    George
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    You might get underneath (engine off, brake on, in gear) and see if you snapped off an axle joint.
  • gg1328gg1328 Posts: 16
    Dear Mr._Shiftright:

    I'll check it later this week, the car is sitting on ice. If it is an axle joint, is it something I can do myself? If not, do you think it is expensive to fix? I forgot to mention, that when I put the shift gear back into park, it makes a noise like a chain is rubbing on something.
    Thanks for your time,
    George
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    edited February 2011
    If you busted an axle, no, that's not too expensive. You just buy an entire rebuilt axle for that side. It's cheaper than replacing the individual joints. I can't hear the noise you're talking about, so can't help you there.

    You might also have something broken inside the transaxle, in the differential gears, or, as you suspect, in the transmission itself.

    But simpler things first, then go to the complex.
  • gg1328gg1328 Posts: 16
    Dear MR SHIFTRIGHT:

    I looked under the car this afternoon, could not see anything physically broken. Did not look real carefully, because ice still surrounds car and did not want to jack it up. Is this broken axle something I can see and replace myself. What's your definition of not to expensive? The noise sounds like a chain swinging.

    Thanks for your time and help!

    GG1367
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    You may or may not be able to see it. It would be much easier if the car could be got on a lift and checked out that way. It's just not possible to "hear" noises of course at this distance.

    A broken axle joint might be a $300--$400 repair. If it's internal in the transaxle, then that gets a lot more expensive of course.
  • Hi, I just signed up and now I can't find out where I was. So unorganized. Me, or Edmunds, gosh, could be both!

    So, this 2001 Town and Country with the smaller V6 has just now, with 98k miles, showing signs of transmission slip. Put it in gear, wait 6 seconds, then the gear engages.

    From what i recall, Chrysler never made the transmission to go much past 100k, and I'm at the door.

    I can do some stuff, but, not all that much. Aside from changing oil, I'm pretty useless. Afraid of doing more harm than good, you know?

    Thanks in advance, wondering if and when this ever gets read, by whom, etc. Feel free to email em directly at [email protected] .
  • My wife's 2002 Town and Country stopped working on her way home from work. when she pulled away from a stop it shifted from first to neutral, and the engine would just free spin in any gear. If you turn the key all the way off you can start the car back up and it will drive, but will slip back into neutral after first gear unless it is shifted into Low keeping it locked in first.
    I replaced the solenoid and then the TCM (bought a rebuilt/programmed unit) but nothing has helped. The trans was replaced just over a year ago at 112,000 miles, and we only have 125,000 miles on it now. Does anyone have any idea what is wrong?
  • Update on my reply. I just rebuilt the used A413 transmission I installed 4 yrs ago. My vibration (symptoms identical to bill197) began right after installing the used tranny. I had suspected and changed both drive-shafts and wheel bearings. I think changing the right drive-axle fixed it, but my son mostly drove it since. Anyway, in rebuilding the tranny, I found the nut on the output shaft was loose, the inner bearing pitted, and the nut retainers missing (separate post). That could likely have caused or compounded the problem.
  • I rebuilt our two minivan transmissions in the last 2 months. Not for fun, the problems just arose simultaneous. Most owners would not attempt but I have been frustrated by "professionals" never fixing past problems in my 1960's Chrysler transmissions, usually "morning sickness". Also, I previously replaced the A413 with a used one and tore the original apart for forensics, which made me confident I could manage a rebuild. If you do so, get the Chrysler manual (Service/Diagnostics ~$15 ebay). I found the A413 manual on-line.

    Removing the tranny is the main effort (axles, suspension). A transmission jack (Harbor Freight $80) was much better than the past 2 time I removed trannys. It is a sissors platform. The tranny weighs only ~150 lb, but is a tight fit in the minivans, so a nice platform helps. If you tackle removal, why not rebuild it yourself?

    The only special tools are a T25 Torx bit, and a set of snap-ring pliers (Harbor Freight). A shop press is nice, but a normal rebuild requires just compressing a weak spring, which you can rig a threaded rod to do, or even push it in manually with a friend. Replacing bearings (unusual) requires special pullers, so perhaps better to buy new mating parts since pressing the bearings on is easy.

    First was our 2002 Chrysler T&C AWD w/ 3.8L, A604 4-spd electronic transmission. The problem was a suspected cracked flex-plate (true). Since 170K mi, I decided to rebuild the tranny and bought a kit w/ frictions, plus a Transgo shift kit. The transmission was perfect inside. Might have been rebuilt (we bought at 155K mi). I didn't even install the friction plates from the kit since mine were only 2 mil worn. I did replace all rubber (old was still flexible). The shift kit would help more on a ~1989 or earlier one since mine already had most of the upgrades. It did replace some metal rings with plastic (teflon?) and tweaked piston springs. I stopped after the L/R clutch, which means I didn't change the L/R piston seal (requires removing output gear). I didn't get into the gear train, transfer shaft, or differential since all felt tight. You do need to rig a lever to compress the 2/4 clutch "finger" spring. It doesn't take much and you could even make something out of wood.

    The A604 is actually simpler inside than earlier "Torqueflite" 3-speeds, since no bands. The extra clutch packs are simply stacks separated by snap rings, which go together quick. Very elegant design. The only reassembly problem I had was that one drum wouldn't go in fully until I found some friction teeth had burrs. Wouldn't have occured w/ new frictions. You can easily tell if you get everything all the way in because the toothed wheel won't align in the input sensor hole. If you follow the manual carefully, it would be hard to mess up.

    The second tranny was in our 96 Voyager w/2.4L and A413 3-sp hydraulic transmission. It wouldn't go in reverse when cold and the engine was flaring (trans slipping) on the 2-3 shift. Since my son uses this in San Francisco, he was sure to soon spin the plates to nothing on a hill. We just hoped it would last until I finished the T&C. The problem w/ the original tranny was it wouldn't go in reverse (hot or cold), plus a broken top mount from an accident (fixed w/ strap for 6 yrs). After replacing with a used tranny, I tore it down and found the only problem was a torn lip seal on the reverse piston.

    Since I could have fixed that from underneath, I thought - same symptoms, probably same problem, maybe 1 day fix. Well symptom does not always equal problem, why many people in these forums are too hopeful somebody can diagnose their problem remotely.

    The used tranny had a "Certified Transmission" label over the factory label so the junkyard suggested I might be getting a nice previously rebuilt one (read on). The A413 is the same basic "Torqueflite" design from 1956, shared by all Chrysler 3-spds, including 60's cars, 90's trucks, and Neons thru 1999? In minivans, it is mostly found in 4 cylinders (a few early V-6?).

    Same tools needed as the A604, except the lever. The bands add complexity, but you can't install them wrong. In the A604, the rear steels work against slots in the case. In the A413, nothing touches the case except the bands (so those steels serve function of the bands). The trickiest part in the A413 is the "over-running clutch" which sits at the bottom. Best to avoid touching it. Hold it down while pulling the clutch pack above it.

    I found the following problems:

    1. A lot of "mud" on the pan magnet. Mostly ferrous, i.e. worn metal. The oil was slightly brown and smelled a little burnt. The "reverse piston" lip seal was fine, so not same problem as before and a rebuild was needed - remove tranny and clean - 1 weekend.

    2. Front friction clutches (4) very worn, 1 down to bare steel. The ones in my old tranny (~110K mi) were perfect, within 1 mil of factory 72 mil thickness, so I used those. How could the "Certified" rebuild ones be so worn? Where the last thick steel should be, were 2 thinner steels making 40 mil extra thickness. Tells me the rebuild shop assembled it with worn friction plates (10 mil avg) and made up the gap a hokey way. Another reason to do it yourself?

    3. Rear friction clutches slightly worn (6 mil), but inner teeth worn to small triangles, which probably skipped on the drum until it warmed up. I found the same wear on the ones in the original tranny, so ordered new frictions on-line (only $2 ea).

    4. Output Shaft wobbly. The nut on the output gear was loose (under rear plate). Neither shaft nut had the "stirrup retainer" which was on my original '96 tranny. These were added (by 1990?) to insure the nuts don't back off. Should have been retainers since this tranny was newer, since it had the valve body cooler tube and matching case hole added ~1999. I suspect the rebuild shop just tossed them, or didn't add if some prior jerk did so. You don't need the special "gear holder" tool shown in the manual. Just use the park sprag to hold the transfer shaft. I slipped in a socket to hold the park lever in.

    5. Inner bearing on output shaft severly worn with bad pits. This could have been caused by the wobbly shaft, or conversely the bearing failed (dirty oil, coolant in oil, or over-load), which caused vibrations which loosened the nut. The bearing on my original shaft was fine, but the race was missing from the old case (must have removed and put somewhere). Rather than risk running an old bearing on a new race, I decided to replace it.

    I had a "bearing separator" which is a split disk with thin edges that get behind the bearing, allowing grabbing it to pull off the shaft with a screw. I could only grab the rollers, not the inner race so pulling it destroyed the bearing. Note that the outer bearing is in a recess and requires a special tool which is a split tube that fits inside the recess to grap it, s
  • Backed out of garage fine. When I put car into drive it bucked and jumped forward about one foot but would not go any further. Seemed to stay in neutral. Right front wheel seemed to be locked up but made a loud popping noise when car bucked forward. Recently transmission seemed to slip and bump occassionally when changing gears. Van has 118,000 miles on it. Torque converter repaired at 60,000 miles. One week ago had water pump replaced, R&R transmission solenoid, R&R Drive Belt, induction clean and clean throttle body. Don't know that repair work had anything to do with today's problem but wanted to let you know of recent repair. Thanks for any help.
  • I noticed Edmunds cut my post off, so I complete here. Is there a problem storing a few kB of text? Better I contribute free content elsewhere. Most posts here are more whiny tweets than useful info anyway.

    ...
    Note that the outer bearing is in a recess and requires a special tool which is a split tube that fits inside the recess to grap it, similar to a "pulley puller". Fortunately, my outer bearing was fine.

    Once I pulled it, I found the number is Timken L68149 (bearing) and L68111 (race). Call any trailer supply shop and they should have it for $10 (made in China). I saw 2 new Timken ones on ebay for $6 w/ shipping, but couldn't wait. Anyway, the trailer shop told me Timken's are now made in China, so maybe the same factory. The inner and outer bearings support the shaft just like the front hub bearings on older rear-wheel drive cars, except you don't adjust the fit by tightening the nut. The nut is torqued tight against a step on the shaft. A spacer sleeve w/ thin washer shims sits between the two bearings to get the pre-load right. Both trannys had just a sleeve (no shims), and I picked the one that gave the best fit (turning torque was in spec).

    Similarly, the differential bearings are shimmed for a perfect "pre-load". Similar to wheel bearings, you want almost no play, but not so tight it generates heat and makes the bearings fail immediately. Of course, over time the bearings wear and develop slight play (and it still works), so use your judgement how finicky to shim it. Since neither trannys had any shims, that part of the manual might be "special case".

    I used the "hard parts" from my original transmission since they seemed less worn, except the output shaft (to keep bearing paired to race in the case). My differential and bearing cones fit in the "Certified" case with almost perfect pre-load (slight turning torque needed). I added the upgrade "pin retainers" to the differential. They keep the pin from flying out under centrifugal force (destroys the case) if you spin a wheel on ice, or some "tuner" decides to "burn rubber". I didn't know about this when I did the A604, but maybe standard by 2002 (I didn't remove diff. cover). I used the pump from the "Certified" tranny since it had the newer (~1999) pump with the more efficient hypoid teeth.

    A few closing tips:

    If you get a junkyard tranny for parts or replacement, get one from 1990+ vehicle since those had most of the final upgrades that solved many problems - bigger diff. bearings, more seals on input shaft and pump, newer torque converter lugs, shared tranny - diff fluid, etc. Even better is 1999+ for the better pump (above). Avoid any from turbocharged 2.4L (PT Cruiser, Neons, a few early minivans) and any car that attracts "tuners". A base minivan might be safest - family owned, rentals are usually fully optioned. Many Neon trannys were for 2.0L and have fewer clutch plates. They should fit, but will wear faster behind a 2.4L.

    Forget the "slide hammers" shown to pull the pump. Just screw bolts into the 2 threaded "pulling holes" and keep screwing them equally and they will push the pump out (ditto for A604). It is just held by a square O-ring on the outside. Buy "tranny grease" to lube the seals. I didn't have any so used Vasoline, and now must worry if OK (needs to melt away under heat). Both trannys work, so probably OK.

    If you must remove the over-running clutch, as I did, you need a trick to get it back together. It has 8 rollers and 8 springs that fall out. Note that the springs must face a certain way, per the manual. They are on the "blind side" when you install it and the rollers must be pushed back against the springs to get it on. The manual shows a special loading ring that holds the rollers in as you slide it on (imagine inside-out piston ring compressor). I rigged up a sleeve of sheet metal and tried holding the rollers w/ Vaseline, but they kept dropping out before I got it down the bottom of the case. I finally thought to turn the case upside down so the rollers were facing up as I installed it and with a little wiggling and turning got it in. I then held it tight while I flipped the tranny over (~70 lb w/ differential and transfer shaft). If correct, you can spin the over-running clutch one way, but not the other. The A604 doesn't have this beast.

    Get as much old oil out of the torque converter as you can. I pour it, let sit 5 min, pour again, and repeat until I see no more. Blow thru the cooler lines w/ 30 psi air. Use a bike pump if all you have. Leave the upper hose off (return). Run a temporary hose from the lower nipple (outlet) to a pan. When you first start the car (~5 qts ATF+4), let it run until you see bright red oil for ~5 sec. Connect one cooler hose to the lower nipple and run the other cooler hose to the pan and repeat. Then connect to the upper nipple. Add another 2 qts. Total should be 8.5 qts, but approach slowly (don't over-fill!). You will get false high readings from splashing until you are close. Don't start w/ 8.5 qts or it may flow past the axle seals (level high until it fills torque conv, etc). I used fully synthetic ATF+4 (Autozone's Coast brand).
  • A common failure is that if one wheel spins very fast, such as on ice or a "tuner" kid "burning rubber", the centrifugal force throws a ~1/2"D pin out of the differential, sometimes leaving a hole in the alum case. Without this pin - no go. The pin is secured by a small roll pin, which wasn't enough. If you ever have your transmission rebuilt, add a "pin retainer" on each side. It is a metal tab, held by the differential ring bolts. The factory may have added this later. I know not in 1996.
  • arayannaarayanna Posts: 1
    I just bought one of these 5 days ago and the same thing just happened to me! I have a disabled little girl and a newborn in there and we had to hike home. Were you able to figure out what was wrong? I can not afford to rebuild everything and take the time to figure it all out. My little girl has ALOT of doctor appointments.....please let me know ASAP
  • keanezrakeanezra Posts: 8
    I took delivery of a 2011 T&C last 3/21/11. Great van, value and features. I have 200 miles so far. I, however felt a shudder while on slow reverse uphill. I normally park my van rear first up my driveway and it's quite steep. I have stopped parking this way ever since I felt this shudder several times. I'm bringing it back to the dealer. I'd like to hear some comments/opinions from owners/knowledgable people first before I bring it, so I have a better idea on what to say to the dealer in case they give me the runaround. This my first american car. I'd appreciate the help on this. On the other hand, everything else is perfect. The drive is much better than the 2009 Oddy I leased. Feature wise, it's leaps away from the Honda when considering price paid for. I just hope this is something minor. Crossing my fingers. Thanks in advance.
  • i Have 08 t&c 3.8l the battery has gone dead on me a couple times now for no apparent reason. no light left on no doors left open. go out in morn and dead. after recharging its ok for awhile then just out of the blue dead again. battery has been load tested a couple times now and load test says ok. it is a 600 cca battery and under load test it drops to 10.82 v which is close to weak point but still in good on meter. Any one know of a problem these vans have that would do this or a fix for it?
    thanks
  • reonreon Posts: 19
    Considering what you said, I would try another battery first.
  • My 2000 T&C is doing the exact same thing!!! Please let me know if you've resolved your problem and what the issue was. Thank you very, very much!!!!
  • tiger125tiger125 Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Plymouth Voyager 2.4 engine with a 3 speed transmission. The transmission was rebuilt 10,000 miles ago and worked fine. The check engine light came on and gave me a P0743 code/TCC Solenoid problem. I took the van to Badger Transmissions and they told me the the tranny was fine but the solenoid needed to be replaced. I bought an OEM TCC solenoid removed the pan, and valve body replaced the solenoid put it all back together without any problems. with the engine running and the van in park you can go through all the gears but when I drive it it will not shift out of 1st gear (Having the shifter in “D”) any help would be appreaciated.
  • Sounds like speed sensor but not the one that runs the speedo
  • I have a 2002 Dodge Grand Caravan. I need some help in figuring out what the problem is. Here are the "symptoms"...

    1. When its cold if you put it in gear jerks and turns the engine off.
    2. When you stop sometimes turns the engine off.
    3. The transmission sometimes jerks when it goes into gear.
    4. You can give it gas and when it goes to 2nd gear sometimes turns the engine off.

    What do you think? Do I need to buy a new transmission?
  • keith74keith74 Posts: 3
    edited May 2011
    I have a 2011 T & C we purchased April 5 that does same as your van. I am now aware of five 2011 model Chrysler vans that do same. I have an ongoing active complaint case file with Chrysler Customer Service. The latest info from them is that Chrysler is aware of the problem, is collecting data but does not have a fix!!! I suggest you call Cutsomer Service and file a complaint. Hopefully, the more owners that report this problem, the more likely we will get help from Chrysler. Their phone 1-800-763-8422.
  • leadfoot69leadfoot69 Posts: 31
    Assuming u have 4 speed trans, sounds like the lock up touque convertor is sticking.
  • gg1328gg1328 Posts: 16
    I have a 1998 Plymouth Voyager, 3.3 engine. My driver's side cv axle broke in half. I tried every which way to try to get the part that goes into the transmission out. No success. I tried with a crow bar. I believe they call it the cat's paw type. I feel if I pull hard enough I will snap the crow bar. Is there a special tool that I can use, or some other Ideas?
    Thanks in advance for your help.
    George
  • gg1328gg1328 Posts: 16
    Dear Mr. Shiftright:

    I finally got around to checking out the broken axle. It was just like you said, a broken axle (driver side) You may not believe it, but I did it myself. The reason it took me almost 3 months, was the fact that almost every weekend it rained or was cold. I purchased a rebuilt axle from a local automotive store and installed it.

    Thanks for all your help!!!!!

    George
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    edited May 2011
    Well congratulations on a job well done!
    image
  • I have a 1994 Chrylser Town and Country that is having an issue. Any help/suggestions would be appreciated.

    Son was driving home last night in it and said that it "wouldn't go". Hubby went and met him and hubby said it feels like it is shifting into neutral. Strange thing is if you turn the key off for 8-10 seconds then restart, it will go another 200 feet or so and then do same thing. We bought it used and haven't had a lot of issues with it other then changing the fuel pump about a month ago.

    thanks for any help!
  • mr_curiousmr_curious Posts: 2
    First things first, check the transmission fluid. Similar problem and the fluid was nearly gone. I don't thnk that is the case with you, but, it was a simple and easy fix for me. Generally speaking, the automatic transmission for the pre-1999 Chrysler vans were good for 90k, and with the transmission cooler installed, 100k. Luck.
  • tallen469tallen469 Posts: 2
    I just fixed my van with the same problem, 1st gear only(not limp mode!) shifted into Nuetral instead of 2nd gear, no reverse. Not an easy fix! In mine the rear carrier inside the transmission busted. I had to take the transmission out and basically rebuild it. If your not good at working on cars and have a good tool collection I wouldn't try doing it yourself.
  • papo191papo191 Posts: 1
    your problem happened to me a year ago an just spend $90.00 dollars just replace the transmission filter and new transmission oil and your problem will be solve
  • vanfixedvanfixed Posts: 4
    We had almost an identical experience to yours, and now it's completely fixed. During hot weather, our 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan's automatic transmission would go into "safety mode" but we didn't fix it due to money. It gradually went into "safety mode" all the time, so we had to take it to a transmission shop. They had to rebuild the transmission. Because we drove it for so long in safety mode, it ruined the transmission. Even after being fixed, we had to take it in periodically due to the "safety mode" problem again. Recently, with the hot weather again, it started acting up again so the transmission shop checked the engine code, and said the code showed that the electrical relay system was off and therefore not sending the power to the transmission. They sent it to a regular mechanic down the street. After about 2 1/2 days, we heard there was a loose connection (wire), that the mechanic unplugged and replugged it, and cleaned around it. Finally, our transmission is working in hot weather. We've had it back one day. It has more get up and go, also. Hope this helps somebody else not to ruin their transmission when it might just have a loose connection in the electrical relay system.
  • vanfixedvanfixed Posts: 4
    We had almost an identical experience to Moody Blues, and now finally it's completely fixed. During hot weather, our 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan's automatic transmission would go into "safety mode" but we didn't fix it due to money. It gradually went into "safety mode" all the time, so we had to take it to a transmission shop. They had to rebuild the transmission. Because we drove it for so long in safety mode, it ruined the transmission. Even after being fixed, we had to take it in periodically due to the "safety mode" problem again. Recently, with the hot weather again, it started acting up again so the transmission shop checked the engine code, and said the code showed that the electrical relay system was off and therefore not sending the power to the transmission. They sent it to a regular mechanic down the street. After about 2 1/2 days, we heard there was a loose connection (wire), that the mechanic unplugged and replugged it, and cleaned around it. Finally, our transmission is working in hot weather. We've had it back one day. It has more get up and go, also. Hope this helps you not to ruin their transmission when it might just have a loose connection in the electrical relay system.
  • swill8295swill8295 Posts: 1
    We have a 98 Grand Caravan LE with the same exact problem. We don't want to spend a lot of money or go to the dealership (because they are going to tell us to rebuild the trans no matter what with the mileage we have on it). Can you please tell me which specific wire your mechanic replugged in and cleaned around so that me and my dad can try the same thing? Thank you very much.
  • Same problem on 2002 Voyager, 31TH transmission, didn't shift out of 1st when in Drive, no OBD codes. Solved by replacing the governor. As a part of governor valve, there are 2 pistons moving by the centrifugal force of the governor rotation (one of the pistons is also spring-loaded). That way the governor senses output shaft speed and sends that information back to the valve body as a variable pressure. Both of those pistons are moving in their "cylinders" cut in aluminum case. Even though those pistons and cylinders are lubricated by transmission fluid, one of those cylinders got chaffed and its piston got stuck (the one without spring load). By replacing the aluminum case only, the problem was solved. Aluminum case for the pistons was taken off a Neon transmission from a junk yard. Note that Neon governor has different weight of the pistons, most likely the shifting speed is lower because Neon is lighter vehicle than Voyager. So only the aluminum case was taken off of Neon governor; the rest of the governor was kept original Voyager, including the pistons. This post may be too late to help tiger125, but anyway here it is for the record and future forum search.
  • keanezrakeanezra Posts: 8
    Thanks for the info. I will call their CS. Maybe we should call NHTSA, you think they can help expedite this process? I'm hoping this is something minor. I'm planing to keep the car over 100K.
  • jdebbinsjdebbins Posts: 8
    I think you have another problem, namely a cold solder joint on your speedometer circuit board. Next time this happens, bang your fist down hard on the top of dash above speedometer.... if it clears up that is the problem. Remove and fix, common electrical problem for this vintage van. Look for my other posts on this issue.
  • jaguar3djaguar3d Posts: 1
    Hello Rick, i also have a 2008tc. DId you ever get a solution on how to check the level. I think taking it to the dealer is stupid to check oil. I notice seeping between the gaskets when i went to change the regular oil. I want to add but not sure which type of oil to add.

    thans Rick
  • vanfixedvanfixed Posts: 4
    We are already having the same problem again, so I'm going to take it back to the transmission shop and find the exact code and name of the part on Friday. Our transmission is under warranty but the part was not part of the transmission so we will have to pay to replace it. I remember last time the transmission guy thought the part was about $60 to replace it but we had no money at the time. This time I will find out the code and just replace it. My husband also said that I was wrong about there being a loose wire. The mechanic told him he had just cleaned around the suspected part. There wasn't a loose wire. I'm going to investigate a little before taking it in. I don't know what "electrical relay system" means. "Ugly guy" mentioned replacing the Speed Idle control (Air Throttle Control) and said it was $66 for original part. Are these the same part? I don't know. I will investigate. My husband is pretty mechanical about normal things on cars. I don't know too much. I will post more after problem is resolved.
  • vanfixedvanfixed Posts: 4
    We've had the van back a week from the shop, and the problem seems fixed finally! The mechanic said it was the engine control unit that was the problem. The first time they replaced it, I had to return it the same day because it still had the same problem. When I got in the van to go somewhere, it did a hard shift into reverse and when I put it in first, I saw all the boxes lit up. It also drove in "safety" mode. The mechanic said sometimes they get a bad engine control unit, so they would return it and ask for another one. They replaced it, and test drove it a lot, especially in hot weather. So far, so good.

    Since we drove our van so much in "safety" or "overdrive" mode so much last year when the weather was hot, it ruined the transmission so that it began slipping, etc. and we had to have major work done on the transmission, plus we had to have this engine control unit replaced this year. The transmission work was $1,700. The engine control work was $600. Better to pay only $600 and not drive it in that mode, instead of both. The repair cost breakdown was $80 for diagnosis, $324 for replacement engine control unit or module, plus about $200 labor for replacing and reprogramming the unit. I asked the mechanic if there was a warranty on the part and I think he said 4 months or 96,000 miles.
  • keith74keith74 Posts: 3
    edited July 2011
    Keanezra, I missed seeing your June 07 post until today. I am today sending the second letter to the Chrysler Customer Assistance Center reporting the problem and requesting our van be repaired. I sent the first letter May 23 and received a letter dated May 26 advising our case is being reviewed. Neither us or the Dealer has heard back from Chrylser about the problems with the transmissions. If I can't get repair help by trying to deal directly with Chrysler (and the Dealer), I will contact the NHTSA, our State Division of Consumer Affairs and maybe the BBB. I would certainly like to have any updates that you might have about the transmission problems. Do you know of a practical way to get other owners to join together about this problem?

    http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20110329104142AAeNaTx

    http://www.thecarconnection.com/questions/chrysler_town-country_2011
  • keanezrakeanezra Posts: 8
    One owner had just found out that cam phasers could be the problem. I know phasers could cause shuddering/rough shifts. I suggest having your dealer check it out. I'll bring mine asap.
  • keith74keith74 Posts: 3
    Thanks for that info and I will inquire with couple dealers. That may also explain why we get some shaking/shuddering when the transmission shifts into the top gear. Please let us know what you learn. It seems Dodge is having the same problems as per attached link.
    http://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-caravan/293523-2011-grand-caravan-trans-issues- -begin.html
  • lisa110lisa110 Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 T&C van with 132,000 miles. Bought it new. A month ago when I started the van and put it into D it started to go into reverse. This happened 2 times. Shut it off and re-started and it was fine. Last week after starting it I put it into R and it started going forward. Both times on level ground. Re-started it and it was fine. Was told I probably need a new transmission. Should I put a new transmission in or look for another car?
    Is it OK to drive?
    Thanks,
    Lisa110
  • andjamandjam Posts: 1
    Hi all, I've got a 2005 Grand Voyager V6 3.3. She's done 79k miles and regularly serviced. I changed the ATF about 2k miles ago. My transmission let me down in a busy city centre, it had started to jump about a bit, earlier in the day and had done 275 miles that morning. I thought it was just a bit warm and hoped it would be OK after it cooled down. But on a busy junction it locked up. The gears all seem to work, but seems to be stuck in park. Big panic, Police turned up, etc, but couldn't move it. After a while, the engine started to get hot so I turned the engine off and the car rolled back a bit. Long and short of it is:- With the engine running, it's stuck in park but the gears seem to work and won't move. Turn the engine off and the car rolls and goes into park when you move the shifter to P. Any ideas??? I did start scrolling through the pages on this site, but with over 200 pages, I'm not sure I'm going to live long enough to do them all and I'm getting depressed about all the other problems that could develop. They are the a lovely motor and I'm not ready to move on yet. Many thanks
  • ta2025ta2025 Posts: 1
    My 2002 T&C ES with only 79,000 miles has just done the same thing and my parents had one that did the same at 75,000. I smell a Lemon or a recall but Chrysler wont do anything. Transmissions should last longer than 75,000 when they cost $2500!!
  • meastonmeaston Posts: 1
    My tranmission may be developing problems 2008 3.8 95k

    1. Drove 200miles and parked it for a week.
    2. For the first 5minutes of driving under minimal load and accelleration and at highway speed RPM would fluctuate say 2k to 3k at a steady speed. The car didn't feel like it was shifting during these changes.
    3. Stopped and checked transmission fluid and it was fine
    4. After a block or two of driving the problem seemed to correct itself and I drove 200miles home without a problem. Stopped at a couple of spots and drove through a couple of small towns.
    5. The next day it seemed to drive fine.
    6. The next day the problem seemed to return.

    To me the on again off again problem smells like a sensor rather than a mechanical failure. No engine light seen during any of this, which supports a transmission problem. The car is in the shop so I should have codes soon.

    The car was purchased at 75k and appeared to have had the tranmission serviced at 60k which I suspect is the fluid and filter change.
  • My Mother In-law has a 1995 Dodge Caravan. It has a V-6 with an automatic transmission. The van has been sitting unused for close to 3 years. I charged the battery and it started right up. Under acceleration it has a brutal vibration that goes away when coasting or in neutral. Seems to shift well and pulls away from a stop normally. Before it sat for so long it operated just fine. What to do?
  • I have a 2003 T & C that I put an Advanced Auto Reman in. I have the shudder in the downshift between 35 and 45 mph that my mechanic can't figure out. Put another reman in with the same problem. Suppose the cam phaser could be that problem too?
  • Did you have the dealer do a relearn procedure done to the moduals?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Flat-spotted tires perhaps? I'd give them a good look. Also possibly a seized up CV (axle) joint.
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