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Is there a chain or belt that broke? Is it something that I could fix myself, without removing the entire transmission? Or is the entire transmission shot?
Thanks for your time and effort,
George
I'll check it later this week, the car is sitting on ice. If it is an axle joint, is it something I can do myself? If not, do you think it is expensive to fix? I forgot to mention, that when I put the shift gear back into park, it makes a noise like a chain is rubbing on something.
Thanks for your time,
George
You might also have something broken inside the transaxle, in the differential gears, or, as you suspect, in the transmission itself.
But simpler things first, then go to the complex.
I looked under the car this afternoon, could not see anything physically broken. Did not look real carefully, because ice still surrounds car and did not want to jack it up. Is this broken axle something I can see and replace myself. What's your definition of not to expensive? The noise sounds like a chain swinging.
Thanks for your time and help!
GG1367
A broken axle joint might be a $300--$400 repair. If it's internal in the transaxle, then that gets a lot more expensive of course.
So, this 2001 Town and Country with the smaller V6 has just now, with 98k miles, showing signs of transmission slip. Put it in gear, wait 6 seconds, then the gear engages.
From what i recall, Chrysler never made the transmission to go much past 100k, and I'm at the door.
I can do some stuff, but, not all that much. Aside from changing oil, I'm pretty useless. Afraid of doing more harm than good, you know?
Thanks in advance, wondering if and when this ever gets read, by whom, etc. Feel free to email em directly at tdbrgr@hotmail.com .
I replaced the solenoid and then the TCM (bought a rebuilt/programmed unit) but nothing has helped. The trans was replaced just over a year ago at 112,000 miles, and we only have 125,000 miles on it now. Does anyone have any idea what is wrong?
Removing the tranny is the main effort (axles, suspension). A transmission jack (Harbor Freight $80) was much better than the past 2 time I removed trannys. It is a sissors platform. The tranny weighs only ~150 lb, but is a tight fit in the minivans, so a nice platform helps. If you tackle removal, why not rebuild it yourself?
The only special tools are a T25 Torx bit, and a set of snap-ring pliers (Harbor Freight). A shop press is nice, but a normal rebuild requires just compressing a weak spring, which you can rig a threaded rod to do, or even push it in manually with a friend. Replacing bearings (unusual) requires special pullers, so perhaps better to buy new mating parts since pressing the bearings on is easy.
First was our 2002 Chrysler T&C AWD w/ 3.8L, A604 4-spd electronic transmission. The problem was a suspected cracked flex-plate (true). Since 170K mi, I decided to rebuild the tranny and bought a kit w/ frictions, plus a Transgo shift kit. The transmission was perfect inside. Might have been rebuilt (we bought at 155K mi). I didn't even install the friction plates from the kit since mine were only 2 mil worn. I did replace all rubber (old was still flexible). The shift kit would help more on a ~1989 or earlier one since mine already had most of the upgrades. It did replace some metal rings with plastic (teflon?) and tweaked piston springs. I stopped after the L/R clutch, which means I didn't change the L/R piston seal (requires removing output gear). I didn't get into the gear train, transfer shaft, or differential since all felt tight. You do need to rig a lever to compress the 2/4 clutch "finger" spring. It doesn't take much and you could even make something out of wood.
The A604 is actually simpler inside than earlier "Torqueflite" 3-speeds, since no bands. The extra clutch packs are simply stacks separated by snap rings, which go together quick. Very elegant design. The only reassembly problem I had was that one drum wouldn't go in fully until I found some friction teeth had burrs. Wouldn't have occured w/ new frictions. You can easily tell if you get everything all the way in because the toothed wheel won't align in the input sensor hole. If you follow the manual carefully, it would be hard to mess up.
The second tranny was in our 96 Voyager w/2.4L and A413 3-sp hydraulic transmission. It wouldn't go in reverse when cold and the engine was flaring (trans slipping) on the 2-3 shift. Since my son uses this in San Francisco, he was sure to soon spin the plates to nothing on a hill. We just hoped it would last until I finished the T&C. The problem w/ the original tranny was it wouldn't go in reverse (hot or cold), plus a broken top mount from an accident (fixed w/ strap for 6 yrs). After replacing with a used tranny, I tore it down and found the only problem was a torn lip seal on the reverse piston.
Since I could have fixed that from underneath, I thought - same symptoms, probably same problem, maybe 1 day fix. Well symptom does not always equal problem, why many people in these forums are too hopeful somebody can diagnose their problem remotely.
The used tranny had a "Certified Transmission" label over the factory label so the junkyard suggested I might be getting a nice previously rebuilt one (read on). The A413 is the same basic "Torqueflite" design from 1956, shared by all Chrysler 3-spds, including 60's cars, 90's trucks, and Neons thru 1999? In minivans, it is mostly found in 4 cylinders (a few early V-6?).
Same tools needed as the A604, except the lever. The bands add complexity, but you can't install them wrong. In the A604, the rear steels work against slots in the case. In the A413, nothing touches the case except the bands (so those steels serve function of the bands). The trickiest part in the A413 is the "over-running clutch" which sits at the bottom. Best to avoid touching it. Hold it down while pulling the clutch pack above it.
I found the following problems:
1. A lot of "mud" on the pan magnet. Mostly ferrous, i.e. worn metal. The oil was slightly brown and smelled a little burnt. The "reverse piston" lip seal was fine, so not same problem as before and a rebuild was needed - remove tranny and clean - 1 weekend.
2. Front friction clutches (4) very worn, 1 down to bare steel. The ones in my old tranny (~110K mi) were perfect, within 1 mil of factory 72 mil thickness, so I used those. How could the "Certified" rebuild ones be so worn? Where the last thick steel should be, were 2 thinner steels making 40 mil extra thickness. Tells me the rebuild shop assembled it with worn friction plates (10 mil avg) and made up the gap a hokey way. Another reason to do it yourself?
3. Rear friction clutches slightly worn (6 mil), but inner teeth worn to small triangles, which probably skipped on the drum until it warmed up. I found the same wear on the ones in the original tranny, so ordered new frictions on-line (only $2 ea).
4. Output Shaft wobbly. The nut on the output gear was loose (under rear plate). Neither shaft nut had the "stirrup retainer" which was on my original '96 tranny. These were added (by 1990?) to insure the nuts don't back off. Should have been retainers since this tranny was newer, since it had the valve body cooler tube and matching case hole added ~1999. I suspect the rebuild shop just tossed them, or didn't add if some prior jerk did so. You don't need the special "gear holder" tool shown in the manual. Just use the park sprag to hold the transfer shaft. I slipped in a socket to hold the park lever in.
5. Inner bearing on output shaft severly worn with bad pits. This could have been caused by the wobbly shaft, or conversely the bearing failed (dirty oil, coolant in oil, or over-load), which caused vibrations which loosened the nut. The bearing on my original shaft was fine, but the race was missing from the old case (must have removed and put somewhere). Rather than risk running an old bearing on a new race, I decided to replace it.
I had a "bearing separator" which is a split disk with thin edges that get behind the bearing, allowing grabbing it to pull off the shaft with a screw. I could only grab the rollers, not the inner race so pulling it destroyed the bearing. Note that the outer bearing is in a recess and requires a special tool which is a split tube that fits inside the recess to grap it, s
...
Note that the outer bearing is in a recess and requires a special tool which is a split tube that fits inside the recess to grap it, similar to a "pulley puller". Fortunately, my outer bearing was fine.
Once I pulled it, I found the number is Timken L68149 (bearing) and L68111 (race). Call any trailer supply shop and they should have it for $10 (made in China). I saw 2 new Timken ones on ebay for $6 w/ shipping, but couldn't wait. Anyway, the trailer shop told me Timken's are now made in China, so maybe the same factory. The inner and outer bearings support the shaft just like the front hub bearings on older rear-wheel drive cars, except you don't adjust the fit by tightening the nut. The nut is torqued tight against a step on the shaft. A spacer sleeve w/ thin washer shims sits between the two bearings to get the pre-load right. Both trannys had just a sleeve (no shims), and I picked the one that gave the best fit (turning torque was in spec).
Similarly, the differential bearings are shimmed for a perfect "pre-load". Similar to wheel bearings, you want almost no play, but not so tight it generates heat and makes the bearings fail immediately. Of course, over time the bearings wear and develop slight play (and it still works), so use your judgement how finicky to shim it. Since neither trannys had any shims, that part of the manual might be "special case".
I used the "hard parts" from my original transmission since they seemed less worn, except the output shaft (to keep bearing paired to race in the case). My differential and bearing cones fit in the "Certified" case with almost perfect pre-load (slight turning torque needed). I added the upgrade "pin retainers" to the differential. They keep the pin from flying out under centrifugal force (destroys the case) if you spin a wheel on ice, or some "tuner" decides to "burn rubber". I didn't know about this when I did the A604, but maybe standard by 2002 (I didn't remove diff. cover). I used the pump from the "Certified" tranny since it had the newer (~1999) pump with the more efficient hypoid teeth.
A few closing tips:
If you get a junkyard tranny for parts or replacement, get one from 1990+ vehicle since those had most of the final upgrades that solved many problems - bigger diff. bearings, more seals on input shaft and pump, newer torque converter lugs, shared tranny - diff fluid, etc. Even better is 1999+ for the better pump (above). Avoid any from turbocharged 2.4L (PT Cruiser, Neons, a few early minivans) and any car that attracts "tuners". A base minivan might be safest - family owned, rentals are usually fully optioned. Many Neon trannys were for 2.0L and have fewer clutch plates. They should fit, but will wear faster behind a 2.4L.
Forget the "slide hammers" shown to pull the pump. Just screw bolts into the 2 threaded "pulling holes" and keep screwing them equally and they will push the pump out (ditto for A604). It is just held by a square O-ring on the outside. Buy "tranny grease" to lube the seals. I didn't have any so used Vasoline, and now must worry if OK (needs to melt away under heat). Both trannys work, so probably OK.
If you must remove the over-running clutch, as I did, you need a trick to get it back together. It has 8 rollers and 8 springs that fall out. Note that the springs must face a certain way, per the manual. They are on the "blind side" when you install it and the rollers must be pushed back against the springs to get it on. The manual shows a special loading ring that holds the rollers in as you slide it on (imagine inside-out piston ring compressor). I rigged up a sleeve of sheet metal and tried holding the rollers w/ Vaseline, but they kept dropping out before I got it down the bottom of the case. I finally thought to turn the case upside down so the rollers were facing up as I installed it and with a little wiggling and turning got it in. I then held it tight while I flipped the tranny over (~70 lb w/ differential and transfer shaft). If correct, you can spin the over-running clutch one way, but not the other. The A604 doesn't have this beast.
Get as much old oil out of the torque converter as you can. I pour it, let sit 5 min, pour again, and repeat until I see no more. Blow thru the cooler lines w/ 30 psi air. Use a bike pump if all you have. Leave the upper hose off (return). Run a temporary hose from the lower nipple (outlet) to a pan. When you first start the car (~5 qts ATF+4), let it run until you see bright red oil for ~5 sec. Connect one cooler hose to the lower nipple and run the other cooler hose to the pan and repeat. Then connect to the upper nipple. Add another 2 qts. Total should be 8.5 qts, but approach slowly (don't over-fill!). You will get false high readings from splashing until you are close. Don't start w/ 8.5 qts or it may flow past the axle seals (level high until it fills torque conv, etc). I used fully synthetic ATF+4 (Autozone's Coast brand).
thanks
1. When its cold if you put it in gear jerks and turns the engine off.
2. When you stop sometimes turns the engine off.
3. The transmission sometimes jerks when it goes into gear.
4. You can give it gas and when it goes to 2nd gear sometimes turns the engine off.
What do you think? Do I need to buy a new transmission?
Thanks in advance for your help.
George
I finally got around to checking out the broken axle. It was just like you said, a broken axle (driver side) You may not believe it, but I did it myself. The reason it took me almost 3 months, was the fact that almost every weekend it rained or was cold. I purchased a rebuilt axle from a local automotive store and installed it.
Thanks for all your help!!!!!
George
Son was driving home last night in it and said that it "wouldn't go". Hubby went and met him and hubby said it feels like it is shifting into neutral. Strange thing is if you turn the key off for 8-10 seconds then restart, it will go another 200 feet or so and then do same thing. We bought it used and haven't had a lot of issues with it other then changing the fuel pump about a month ago.
thanks for any help!
thans Rick
Since we drove our van so much in "safety" or "overdrive" mode so much last year when the weather was hot, it ruined the transmission so that it began slipping, etc. and we had to have major work done on the transmission, plus we had to have this engine control unit replaced this year. The transmission work was $1,700. The engine control work was $600. Better to pay only $600 and not drive it in that mode, instead of both. The repair cost breakdown was $80 for diagnosis, $324 for replacement engine control unit or module, plus about $200 labor for replacing and reprogramming the unit. I asked the mechanic if there was a warranty on the part and I think he said 4 months or 96,000 miles.
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20110329104142AAeNaTx
http://www.thecarconnection.com/questions/chrysler_town-country_2011
http://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-caravan/293523-2011-grand-caravan-trans-issues- -begin.html
Is it OK to drive?
Thanks,
Lisa110
1. Drove 200miles and parked it for a week.
2. For the first 5minutes of driving under minimal load and accelleration and at highway speed RPM would fluctuate say 2k to 3k at a steady speed. The car didn't feel like it was shifting during these changes.
3. Stopped and checked transmission fluid and it was fine
4. After a block or two of driving the problem seemed to correct itself and I drove 200miles home without a problem. Stopped at a couple of spots and drove through a couple of small towns.
5. The next day it seemed to drive fine.
6. The next day the problem seemed to return.
To me the on again off again problem smells like a sensor rather than a mechanical failure. No engine light seen during any of this, which supports a transmission problem. The car is in the shop so I should have codes soon.
The car was purchased at 75k and appeared to have had the tranmission serviced at 60k which I suspect is the fluid and filter change.